ok thank you very much tomorrow I will look for the screw that says, I think I know what it is. thank you very much for the advice

Here, found a photo showing it:

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okkkkkkk.thanks !!!!!!

My black !!!!

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Do I have a bad display? The top row started doing 666 this on me. Before I order a PinScore replacement, I was wondering if there was something else I should check? Wish they made that display in White LEDs but doesn’t look like it. Not sure I’ll love the RED.

I have some some other weird issues too:

1. The GHT bank isn’t resetting after drop

2. the three switches in the ball lock area behind the draw bridge aren’t registering. Goes into ball search mode to kick it out of there.

3. The A of WAR doesn’t ever register.

I was assuming lose wires initially but it sure seems like a lot went wrong quickly. Any thoughts?
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I’m assuming you reseated the ribbon cable correct?

No, I haven't checked anything yet. The display just started doing this during a game. Turned the game off and back on and its been like this ever since. Is the ribbon a common problem? Thanks for the pointer, I'll check when I get home tonight.

Yes, they're generally problematic.

What I would do: turn game on so you can view the display. Open backbox, and wiggle the display's ribbon cable at both ends. See if you can get the problem to correct itself. Be careful when you're messing in the backbox with power on though.

It just may need to be reseated (pulled off/put on) a few times.

This is the first place to start.

thank you very much @Blackbeard. That corrected the issue with the top row display. While I was in the there I made my RANSOM lights not green. The game came to me that way and its much nicer with white in there now. I also reseated the connectors for my drop target bank and ball lock switchboard and that solved both those issues too.

New Issue -
Looking closely at the display now, it seems like the top row is noticeably dimmer than the bottom row. Any thoughts on that? Are those high voltage lines like DMD use? Why would top be different than bottom though if its a power input issue?

It could be voltage issues although I think your hypothesis is correct in that the dimming would be uniform. How are the two large caps on the power supply board? Are they the old brown ones? Or have they been rebuilt? Test voltage on ps board at the test points. I believe there are 3 points.

Also, you may just need a new display ribbon cable.

Orrr your displays may be gassing out.

I put Rad decals on mine. I think they look great and we’re super easy to put on.

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Hey all,
I'm in
Already have a nice original BK, so had to eventually pick up a BK2000.
this 1/2 restored example crossed my path.
will have to strip & rebuild the under bonnet stuff/service the boards & clean up the coin door.
just reading up from the previous pages on the fine adjustments to the top level so the ball flows spot on.
all the best.
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Wondering if anyone has any links to tear down pics, especially underneath upper playfield,
TIA

Several here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bk2000-refresh-redeux

thanks for that, exactly what i was after, great reference pics

Rebuilding the upper playfield 1st,
still plenty to do

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Hey guys,
by any chance anyone can print up some adhesive stickers,
T-shirt & remove screw for service,
my back panel has been previously repainted,

happy to gift paypal,
needs to be posted O/S

TIA

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Here is a vectorized scan. I just printed mine on label paper.

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Awesome & thanks for that

anyone have a,

Remove screw for service scan ?

Hey all
Is anyone making this wireform or selling one.

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Also, chasing these as well
Any help will be great full.

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Hi. Sent you a PM.

Chris

Hi guys.
I got in a few weeks back, as can be read in the 'pinball horror pics' thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-horror-pics/page/43#post-5269888

I was wondering how many people have tried to remove their maylar on the bk2k. I really want to do it but heard system 11 can be bad. I have done it very succesfully on a Data East time machine, Jungle lord and high speed. Maybe more but cant remember. How did it go with others in here?

Don't do it. I tried 2 methods for removing mylar on a BK2K playfield many years ago (both heat and cold) and both lifted all the art. I don't know what it is about the adhesive they used on this particular title, but from my perspective it was not possible to do it without significant damage. I ended up buying a repro playfield set from Mirco and doing a swap, which turned out really really well. Much more effort, to be sure, but safe.

I removed the mylar on my BK2K slowly with the freeze spray method and did not remove any paint.

From my understanding, you are certainly in the minority with your results. My experience was vastly worse. LOL

Chris

Soooo, yeah. What I was afraid of. I might try a small piece. I'll get it up and running first. But, if possible I would love to take it off and put a playfieldprotector on it.

For reverence, I have had the best succes with the freeze spray. In my opinion the best method when done right.

The inserts on the upper playfield are a bit lifted, can I heat them up and push them down with the mylar still on top of it?

I did my upper with the canned-air freeze method, the mylar came right off and left 100% of the glue and art behind. Some of you might fall outta your chairs when you read this part... If all the glue remains and its nice and even, you dont HAVE to spend 200 hours removing the old glue (and probably much of the art with it) you can put a new mylar right over it and you'll never know its there, its invisible just like the mylar.
Most of the old-school guys around here would lose their minds at the idea, but notta one of them has ever tried it to see the results!

FYI, having a free shipping special for the weekend on my Black Knight / Black Knight 2000 topper (and other items, minimum $10 order). Just mention "pinside" in your order through Monday. Amounts to about 15% off the regular total price.

http://ccpinball.com/shop.html

Hey all, having this ball hang up, its happened quite a few times, any tip would be helpful.

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Picked up a BK2k last week. The cab and head have some damage. The backglass has some flaking, but it's usable for now. The playfield looks pretty nice. However, I just watched the two 160v caps on the power board burn out, so it's not booting yet.

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nice,
anyone know the story about those plastics around the upper lock kickout, looks different to mine.

Early sample art. Was changed at some point.

It's not just the samples. They made a lot of them this way, maybe 30% of the run. (My game also has these plastics.)

Ah, good to know - I thought the number was a lot less!

pic of my finished center decal job for robx46

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I have the early plastic version (some call it "modern" vs "stone castle") as well. I actually prefer that version, even though the upper playfield ramp plastic art is considerably simpler.

Has anyone tried putting LEDs behind the backglass to light it? I'm looking at some of the LED strips that Comet Pinball sells that can plug into existing lamp sockets and considering how I could use them in my BK2K to enhance the existing lighting.

I just worked with Cliff to get some protectors for BK2K.

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Does anyone have a rubber placement diagram? The one in the Marco kit is useless.

Or, barring a diagram, what size goes near the upper flipper and behind the middle drop targets?

Well, I figured it out.
Need to rebuild the left flipper, finish the LED conversion and replace the battery pack.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-club/page/10#post-4214226

Pretty stoked to be a part of this club, finally. I haven't done the research yet, but I have been told that I may have an earlier model. Due to it having more "Fantasy" plastics instead of the "castle" version. What's the story behind this?

From IPDB:

Game has two different plastic artwork versions for the upper playfield: "futuristic" style" and "stone castle" style. These differing plastics appear around the lock assembly, near the "W.A.R" lanes, as the upper ramp cover, and as the "magna-save ready" sign. Reportedly, the "futuristic" artwork may be the earlier design.

I had the futuristic on my machine when I had it and like them, but the castle ones are cool too.

Chris

Well I joined the bk2000 club last week and got these diagrams with the machine. Hopefully they could be helpful to someone at some point.

When I got it the seller explained to me what was wrong with it and the repairs he did.
Well now I have it home the gi lights in the playfield have gone out. I've been going through it and all wiring looks good, but the j6 on the backbox interconnect board looks like a repair might not of held. The gi's in the backbox are fine just the playfield is out. I also need to pull the board from under the playfield and test it.

If anyone has any pointers for other things to look at they're much appreciated. I've been doing good fixing everything by doing a lot of reading but figured I'd reach out on this one to help speed up the process.
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So I unboxed this game somewhere in a thread on this site years ago and never had good luck with the nib bk2k never thought much about it and see this club today and found this IMDb note from Steve ( owned this game for years and never seen this document ... it solved all the problems I have with a nib bk2k ... fun note - if you ever read this Steve good work..

Hello all, upon starting my game today I noticed that both flippers were unresponsive. Could it be a fuse? Does anyone know were to find them?

Thank you in advance

Joining the club!
I have agreed to buy this project bk2000 here in N.z. once our travel restrictions ease in the next week or two.
I mentioned it to wifey, and she said go for it!
Looks to be a good starting point for a refresh. Comes with a near perfect backglass, new nxt gen decals, new plastics set, new ramp and new side rails/armor.
I am planning to strip down, clean up and just polish up the mylar and try to stick the bubbles down. I have removed mylar and clearcoated a p.f. before, on my fish tales, but my understanding is this is to be avoided if possible on this title?
Justin

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I was able to remove my mylar and clearcoat, but your mileage may vary. if you do, you will definitely need to redo all the insert decals, the center decal is not easy and not included in any decal sets you can buy. Looks great if you have the time/patience though.

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