Black Knight 2000 Club - Knights of the Lightning Wheel.

(Topic ID: 94003)

Black Knight 2000 Club - Knights of the Lightning Wheel.


By NextoPin

4 years ago



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  • 652 posts
  • 125 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 days ago by tslayer71
  • Topic is favorited by 65 Pinsiders

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There are 652 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 14.
#601 4 months ago

if one is made let me know I am in need of one.

#602 4 months ago

So I am starting to get back quotes on these from the welders (For example see picture). I feel like at 150 to 200 a pop no one would be interested as that doesn't even include shipping or the spring and rubber part. However that is just the first quote I got back so who knows
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#603 4 months ago

Keep it going. I'm in for one if it's nice and chrome and true to original.

#604 4 months ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Keep it going. I'm in for one if it's nice and chrome and true to original.

So it looks like they would be stainless (Which is what the welders claim they are originally made of, my guess is we could discuss chroming but that would drive the cost up even more). I'd like to see if I can get this thing built for the shipped price of $65 (My guess is that would put the per unit price around $50 or so). I've got several requests for estimates out to local welding shops and as I get more details I will keep you guys updated.

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#605 4 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

So I am starting to get back quotes on these from the welders (For example see picture). I feel like at 150 to 200 a pop no one would be interested as that doesn't even include shipping or the spring and rubber part. However that is just the first quote I got back so who knows

For me, the price ($200) is a little high for the size. Just to make sure -- I'm not interested in the 10" piece that catches the ball after the W-A-R rollovers -- just the ~7" one with the springs and mount (to the slings). A higher price certainly ups the ante in terms of investment (maybe a smaller run?), but serious owners/collectors are used to paying a premium for custom replacement (or NOS) metal. Springs (like these) are easier to find than a custom made piece of chromed metal. I can transfer my springs from the old piece to the new one. One could get by just fine with something close to the original springs, but there's nothing close enough to the habitrail.

As many painfully realize, sources for quality table parts are drying up. A happy side-effect of ever increasing table prices is a tolerance for higher replacement part cost. I'm 100% still interested in a replacement part, even if I have to chrome it myself.

#606 4 months ago

How hard a shot is it to get the ball back up to the upper playfield. I recently got everything working, and I am not sure if it’s still a weak right lower flipper or is it just not the easiest shot getting it back up? I thought for sure mine was still weak, i played it at another location and it was way harder..

#607 4 months ago

Yes we're on the same page concerning the part. It's the part that attached to the right sling. It has three hooks for screws. Yeah no worries, I'm not giving up let's see what other estimates come in.

Quoted from catkins:

For me, the price ($200) is a little high for the size. Just to make sure -- I'm not interested in the 10" piece that catches the ball after the W-A-R rollovers -- just the ~7" one with the springs and mount (to the slings). A higher price certainly ups the ante in terms of investment (maybe a smaller run?), but serious owners/collectors are used to paying a premium for custom replacement (or NOS) metal. Springs (like these) are easier to find than a custom made piece of chromed metal. I can transfer my springs from the old piece to the new one. One could get by just fine with something close to the original springs, but there's nothing close enough to the habitrail.
As many painfully realize, sources for quality table parts are drying up. A happy side-effect of ever increasing table prices is a tolerance for higher replacement part cost. I'm 100% still interested in a replacement part, even if I have to chrome it myself.

#608 4 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

How hard a shot is it to get the ball back up to the upper playfield. I recently got everything working, and I am not sure if it’s still a weak right lower flipper or is it just not the easiest shot getting it back up? I thought for sure mine was still weak, i played it at another location and it was way harder..

Recently I've fixed this. Make sure the flipper switch on the cabinet is gapped correctly and the eos is gapped correctly as well. I put FL-11629s in mine as well but to be honest it's made it like stupidly powerful. Like on a scale of 1 to 10 its like a 9.5 I mean they are strong AF. Makes the back handing on the spin VUK and the long ramp shot much easier. However if you go that route make sure you resolve the weakness issue first as just adding a new coil won't fix it lol.

#609 4 months ago

I bought a BK2K four years ago in good condition. There is some wear on the playfield but nothing major - only about three very small areas where the paint has worn away. The rest of the playfield is in pretty good shape with some planking but not enough to warrant a full repaint or anything like that, at least from what I can see on the non-mylar'd sections, but it certainly needs a good waxing and new rubbers. The left kickback/last chance decals have some ball wear too. All of the inserts are in good condition with no apparent cracking.

I'm starting to think about restoring the machine, but I was wondering if you had any tips. I have all the time in the world. I've been reading through some of vid's threads.

The pictures below are just about all of the worn paint, all there since I bought the machine four years ago and none of it has gotten any worse. You can see that at some point, somebody removed the mylar from the I-N area; I have no idea why. Do you think this is a good indication that the mylar may come off easily for the rest of the machine?

I was going to start with the easy stuff first - the circuit boards in the backbox. None of the electrolytic caps are bulging but I am going to replace all of them. I might even replace the power resistors with new/higher power ones, clean the boards, replace the fuses/fuse holders and possibly the rectifiers (maybe FETs too), and replace all the connectors. This is well within my comfort zone so I'm not worried about anything going wrong. I also want to upgrade the speakers and finish replacing the lighting with LEDs - I think I've only put LEDs under the inserts.

Up next I was probably just going to give the playfield a good cleaning and waxing and go from there. I want to touch up the worn areas but I'm not sure how to protect them. Should I (re)mylar over them, or try to clearcoat just those areas?

As for the mylar... it is bubbling in a few areas but nothing that affects gameplay. I'm 50/50 on trying to remove it - plan B would be buying a repro Mirco playfield if I royally screw anything up, but maybe for now I should just touch up the worn sections and not worry about the mylar.

The cabinet has some scuffs but to be honest, I don't mind them. I would touch up some of the easy and more obvious ones, but I feel like some of them add character; this was a routed machine so there's some history behind it. I'm not really a conservationist or looking to put this thing into a museum, so some cosmetic wear is OK with me.

Thanks for any insight!

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#610 4 months ago

That area might be an indication of success, but definitely still use a healthy amount of care and caution if you do decide to pull it. I just bought myself a BK2K (hello club btw!) on which the previous owner attempted mylar removal and it went terribly wrong. Mirco planned for next year when my pinball budget resets.

My Magna-Save has exactly the same deep wear spot, and I believe what I'm going to do about that is drop a mylar circle in the center of it on the new PF. I can't speak for everybody but I would definitely mylar a common wear spot even on a fresh playfield. I've already done the same to protect the area around the fish on my Road Show, a common eject hole wear spot on that game.

Now a couple questions from this new owner!
-Are the right flippers supposed to be dual-action? My right flipper button is just a single set of blades that appears to have both flipper wires soldered to the same terminal. Converting is trivial but I'll leave it alone if that was the intended design. My Swords of Fury and Rollergames (slightly older and slightly newer, respectively) both have dedicated switch lugs for each flipper.
-My volume pot doesn't go low enough! The lowest possible volume can still be mildly headache-inducing in my quiet basement late at night. It also has a lot of crackly flat spots, as does my Rollergames. If I replaced it with a brand-new 10K pot, would that fix my volume woes or should I seek a different ohm rating?

#611 4 months ago

Welcome to the club! regarding the flippers, yes it is designed to have only one flipper switch not a stacked switch. The lower right flipper has a ganged eos which when flipped closes the outer most eos and gives power to the upper flipper. This is as designed. Other items, I agree, mine doesn't go very low. However it gets pretty quiet (Like I can easily hear the flippers over top the volume) so I would think a new pot on your game is in order.

Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

That area might be an indication of success, but definitely still use a healthy amount of care and caution if you do decide to pull it. I just bought myself a BK2K (hello club btw!) on which the previous owner attempted mylar removal and it went terribly wrong. Mirco planned for next year when my pinball budget resets.
My Magna-Save has exactly the same deep wear spot, and I believe what I'm going to do about that is drop a mylar circle in the center of it on the new PF. I can't speak for everybody but I would definitely mylar a common wear spot even on a fresh playfield. I've already done the same to protect the area around the fish on my Road Show, a common eject hole wear spot on that game.
Now a couple questions from this new owner!
-Are the right flippers supposed to be dual-action? My right flipper button is just a single set of blades that appears to have both flipper wires soldered to the same terminal. Converting is trivial but I'll leave it alone if that was the intended design. My Swords of Fury and Rollergames (slightly older and slightly newer, respectively) both have dedicated switch lugs for each flipper.
-My volume pot doesn't go low enough! The lowest possible volume can still be mildly headache-inducing in my quiet basement late at night. It also has a lot of crackly flat spots, as does my Rollergames. If I replaced it with a brand-new 10K pot, would that fix my volume woes or should I seek a different ohm rating?

#612 4 months ago

To those waiting eagerly for the wire form, I am still working with various local companies to find the best work/ deal. I am hoping to get another quote back today.

#613 4 months ago

That's awesome as I'm looking for one as well.

#614 4 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

To those waiting eagerly for the wire form, I am still working with various local companies to find the best work/ deal. I am hoping to get another quote back today.

Marco has the spring extension. I bought a few and they are an exact match.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-407

I found the rubber caps in the nut and bolt aisle at my local ACE hardware. Look for bolt caps. I’ll post a picture next time I’m there.

#615 4 months ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

To those waiting eagerly for the wire form, I am still working with various local companies to find the best work/ deal. I am hoping to get another quote back today.

I can probably get you a quote from one of my guys in china, but I would need to draw it up in solidworks, and I don’t have an original to work from...

3 weeks later
#616 3 months ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

I can probably get you a quote from one of my guys in china, but I would need to draw it up in solidworks, and I don’t have an original to work from...

I'd be interested in this. Let's Chat

#617 3 months ago

As an update I finally have a local who I am working with who will be making three of these for me. One for my game one as a model and one for someone else so we can confirm the dimensions are right. Not cheap sadly, $175 just for the metal part not including shipping. My guess is these will be $200 or so shipped. Hopefully if Bob can get one of the models and get it into the CAD software and off to China or wherever perhaps we could get a better price. Either way it beats the broken ones we are currently dealing with.

#618 3 months ago

I had asked about the difficulty gettting back up the ramp with the right flipper.
It’s kinda of a tuff question because I am not sure if it’s a skill issue or power of my flipper. I have a number head up the ramp and then roll back. There seems to be only a spot on the flipper that will bring it back, and it depends on how the ball is moving when it hits the flipper. Does this sound like how it plays on your games ? Or is it a pretty easy shot for you all Trying to decide if I should resolder my connections or not.
Thanks

#619 3 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

I am not sure if it’s a skill issue or power of my flipper.

Vid helped me. Follow the link to enlightenment!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#620 3 months ago

Does the flipper coil need the plunger spring if it has the newer type return spring. ( it was on there ) Could that be zapping power

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#621 3 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

Does the flipper coil need the plunger spring if it has the newer type return spring. ( it was on there ) Could that be zapping power
[quoted image]

Yeah take that off if you've upgraded to the side springs. You no longer need it and it can cause problems with the plunger and also make the flippers weak.

#622 3 months ago

Does anyone have a photo of their lower right flipper coil and switches?
Mine has and eos and a second switch I thought it was for lane change but in the Manual it’s only a single switch in the diagrams

#623 3 months ago
Quoted from topkat:

Does anyone have a photo of their lower right flipper coil and switches?
Mine has and eos and a second switch I thought it was for lane change but in the Manual it’s only a single switch in the diagrams

Yes thats correct. The ganges eos switch on the bottom right flipper is the eos for the bottom right flipper and it also supplies power to the upper right flipper. All lane changes are done via opto couplers on the interconnect board.

1 week later
#624 3 months ago
Quoted from cletus14:

I found the rubber caps in the nut and bolt aisle at my local ACE hardware. Look for bolt caps. I’ll post a picture next time I’m there.

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1 month later
#625 63 days ago

I wanted to ask if any of you could throw some debugging ideas my way...

After starting 3-ball multiball, everything works fine. However, once I lose the first ball, you hear the end-of-ball sound loop, and then the multiball mode ends (with 2 balls still on the playfield) and everything goes back to normal play mode. The game plays completely normally otherwise.

This points to a trough problem, I think - but the switch test on the trough switches seem normal. I'm wondering if maybe the outhole switch is causing the other trough switches to temporarily register making the game think that all 3 balls have dropped. (Could that be a switch diode problem?)

I can't think of what other kinds of faults would cause the game to think multiball had ended but allow normal play to continue... hoping for any brainstorming ideas you all might come up with.

Thanks!

#626 63 days ago

Hmm, I did find this helpful post... leaving it here for future reference in case someone happens upon this too:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=347071

#627 58 days ago

Leaving my solution here for future reference. In my case, the multiball problem wasn't caused by diodes or miswired switches (as it was in the linked post above). The switch in my shooter lane had gotten bent so that the plunger tip would hold down the shooter lane switch sometimes. If you enter multiball, and a ball is detected in the shooter lane, and one hit the outhole, multiball will abruptly end. So, check your shooter lane switch as well if you have this problem.

#628 53 days ago

Added an extra light source at the upper playfield.
Much easier to hit the castle's door.

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#629 52 days ago

My Black Black Knight 2000. Th in s is my 3rd or 4th BK2K. It keeps coming back around so I cleared the pf and got the armor black.

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#630 52 days ago
Quoted from newtoit:

My Black Black Knight 2000. Th in s is my 3rd or 4th BK2K. It keeps coming back around so I cleared the pf and got the armor black.

Love the black! I just did a pf swap on mine since it's a long-term keeper... might follow your lead with the rails and lockdown bar.

#631 52 days ago

Black trim looks great! I've done it to quite a few of my machines. Sof cftbl bsd etc.
I was just reading in stern 2019 topic how someone thinks bk2000 is the worst sys 11 ever. No waaaaay!

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#632 52 days ago

Mmm, SoF and BK2K side by side is my 80s pinball music fantasy. :O

#633 52 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

I was just reading in stern 2019 topic how someone thinks bk2000 is the worst sys 11 ever. No waaaaay![quoted image][quoted image]

BK2K is one of my favorite games. I can see how it can get repetitve but to say its the worst system 11 would be a lie. Everytime i get rid of it I want it back.

#634 51 days ago

It's a classic game.
I'm wondering that I sell the DESW or FT instead of it when it is necessary.
I do not why.

#635 51 days ago
Quoted from newtoit:

BK2K is one of my favorite games. I can see how it can get repetitve but to say its the worst system 11 would be a lie. Everytime i get rid of it I want it back.

Clearly they never played Road Kings. LOL.

Although i sold my BK2K, I really do miss it sometimes. It can be repetitive, but the music gets me every darn time!

Chis

#636 47 days ago

The upper right wire gate ( next to the “n” lane ), is that supposed to always allow balls to roll to the right, or does just depend how fast and the path the ball is going?

#638 42 days ago
Quoted from Jakusu:

Black trim looks great! I've done it to quite a few of my machines. Sof cftbl bsd etc.
I was just reading in stern 2019 topic how someone thinks bk2000 is the worst sys 11 ever. No waaaaay![quoted image][quoted image]

Love that Getaway trans-light where did you get that at?

#639 42 days ago
Quoted from darcangeloel:

Does anyone know where I can find a upper play field kick stand or whatever it's called lol. Mine doesn't have one so I normally have to prop it up with something while working on it

Did you ever find an upper playfield prop rod (kickstand)? Mine is missing as well...

#640 42 days ago

I installed an OCD LED board on my BK2K. I like the out-of-the-box results, but I'll tinker with the settings to see if I can dial it in a little better.

#641 42 days ago

Nice! Just got my LED OCD as well, would love to check out a screen shot of your settings after it’s dialed in

#642 42 days ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Nice! Just got my LED OCD as well, would love to check out a screen shot of your settings after it’s dialed in

Right. LED OCD. I’m obviously not OCD about the names of products. I will share for sure!

#643 41 days ago

I may not see much of a difference, maybe I’m not OCD enough, but I will say I love your little video and how it syncs up.

#644 41 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

I may not see much of a difference, maybe I’m not OCD enough, but I will say I love your little video and how it syncs up.

I used iMovie on my phone to create the side-by-side. First time I've ever used it. It was easy to figure out and it turned out pretty cool.
The main differences to look for on the left is how fast the non-OCD lights transition from on to off. There's no transition to full brightness and to off like an incandescent bulb. You'll also notice a little bit of flicker at full brightness.

On the right, everything is smooth as butter. The lightning wheel actually looks like an extra light is on as the tail of the light string fades.

I'll take a slow-motion video of each as well when I get some free time. You'll definitely see it then. With slow-motion capture, the GI flickers like crazy right now. I don't know if I'm OCD enough to care about the GI though.

#645 36 days ago

My recently acquired BK2K is missing the upper playfield mini prop rod. Can someone post a few picts of the prop rod & hinge area? I am looking to fabricate the rod itself and trying to determine if anything else is missing.

#646 35 days ago
Quoted from Davefinn:

Did you ever find an upper playfield prop rod (kickstand)? Mine is missing as well...

Sadly no, it like the lower pf wireforn are just not around.

#647 35 days ago
Quoted from Davefinn:

Can someone post a few picts of the prop rod and hinge area?

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There's only one prop-rod. Don't let the mirror blades fool you.

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1 week later
#648 28 days ago

Thanks, exactly what I wanted to see. The mirror blades helped!

#649 27 days ago

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#650 22 days ago

So balls coming from the upper playfield are easily cradled with a raised right flipper which I think is normal. Ideas for making this more challenging? Different bouncy flipper rubber, lower flipper bat angle so harder to cradle, offset upper to lower playfield wire form so ball hits lower right flipper in different place?? Thoughts? Thanks!

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