Can anyone give me a picture of the J13 connector on the interconnect board (To insert lamps)? Any where it goes if possible? Mine appears to be missing entirety, and my insert lamps don't work. Can't even find bare wires.

What part is this and where does it go? Pinball for scale

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That would be the mounting points for the wireform ramp at the top upper left, that sends the the ball from the shooter to the return lanes, its broken off.

J13 is not used.

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Does anyone know where I can find a upper play field kick stand or whatever it's called lol. Mine doesn't have one so I normally have to prop it up with something while working on it Also does anyone know of the upper to lower wireform for sale that doesn't have the piece of support metal broken off. Mine is in decent shape with the exception of that support piece that attaches to the screw near the magna-save.

Thanks. I found it in the bottom of the cab. Looks like I need to find someone with a welder.

Thanks, traced issue to bad connection at a bridge rectifier.

Still looking for these parts if anyone has them. I've created a wanted ad as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wtb-upper-pf-kick-stand-and-upper-to-lower-pf-wireform-

You could probably try contacting some of the places that chrome and plate wire forms. They usually keep pre-plated parts in stock. They might sell you something.

Try [email protected]

Is there a setting to make the drawbridge go down in 1 hit? Guests are struggle bussing on this game and frankly I agree it’s tough getting multiball started.

Hey all, having a lighting issue. My upper playfield GI and the non-flashers in the backbox are out. I'm fairly certain I fixed this before and it was a fuse issue, but that was quite some time ago and I can't remember which one. Any ideas?

It’s a fuse. Same thing happened to me when I was shopping my machine.

I have a technical question for the group. My BK2K kickback (on the left hand outlane) misses the ball now and then, it rolls right by when it's lit. However, it works 9 out of 10 times so everything mechanically works, and it's a microswitch and not an opto. Interestingly it doesn't seem to matter if it is fast or slow, and the switch works normally in test mode. But once in a while during gameplay it doesn't register/try to fire which can be frustrating. I've been told before that's just the way it is on this title, but can anyone else confirm that? If not, any ideas on what to check?

Thanks!

New switch will clean up the issue. Mine was the same way... then it would miss slightly more... finally people started to complain to me about it. So I replaced the switch and all is well.

Hi all. Just finishing off my restore on this awesome machine.
I actually have 2 machines and they both have 3 wires not connected in the harness near the flippers. White with brown stripe and green with red it looks like? Is this common on all machines?

This 100%. Micro switches are pretty resilient but over time through use and dirt and such getting into the switch the little button on them tends to get stuck or makes it slow to go down or reset. Replacing it is the best solution as I have done that and in idk over 1000 games on my bk2k I've never had it miss when it was lit also nice to see another bk2k owner here in VA

Awesome, thanks guys will give that a try. Since it works fine in test mode I didn't think that was it. I'll report back when I'm done and see.

Mine also has this. I believe it originally went to a slam tilt switch that was apparently commonly removed. I forget the color code exactly, but if two of these wires aren't connected to each other (the darker two I think...), your trough switches wont work.

Thankyou this makes sense!

Hopefully be nearly finished this week.

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Nice. I just finished mine, looking for the nice camera to do it justice.

I just wanted to follow up my original post to let others know that it was a flaky switch in case they have the same problem in the future. I assumed the switch was fine since it worked 100% in test mode, but I took a few minutes to swap it out with a new one and it hasn't missed since. Thanks for the advice!

Hi all. Can anyone help with the correct layout for plastics in this spot? Looked at hep, treasure cove and pinside galleries and not much help. Thanks!

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Also this ones home?

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Attached is a pic of the drawbridge area. It looks like you have the upper matching. That mystery plastic goes underneath and covers those plastic posts. Hopefully you can see it as it was hard to photograph that area.

Drawbridge.jpg

Plastic.jpg

Thank you!

I aims not a member of the club... But I'd love to be. The bowling alley in town had a bk2k when I was young and I played the snot out of it. Have it on TPA now, but that aint pinball. With new micro playfields available, is it possible to scratch build a bk2k? Is parts availability good enough so a decent fabricator could fill in the gaps? I saw a thread where a guy in MInnesota built a pair of MMs from parts. These just never seem to come up for sale. I did get a CL alert the other day that I missed a project machine 4 hours away for $150! After wailing in agony over missing that deal, it got me to thinking...

Ehh, there are alot of weird little parts that would probably make that prohibitively expensive.

Nearly there....

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Looking at a very nice example of a BK2000. Any idea on what I should pay?

Used to be $2K-ish all day long, but now with the new PFs being out there you're already seeing a steady rise.

Thanks, I picked it up today.

Finished yesterday and given s good workout last night by my mates!
Couple of switches to adjust but playing beautifully!

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Damn, that's nice.

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Ok how many of you guys are also looking for the wireform ramp going upper to lower playfield?

I've needed one for two years. I can't believe no one has reproed them yet.

I'm looking for one as well. One of the legs on mine broke off (Before I got the game) and all three should be installed to give it max stability. I'd buy one if someone was selling one (That wasn't broken lol).

Also still looking for the small metal kick stand for the upper pf as mine did not come with one.

<raises hand> Damage caused by raising the upper pf. Smallish connector to top of right sling broke off. Looking for repair or replacement.

I would be in for either or both of the wireforms from the upper to lower playfield.
The one that hangs off the front edge of the upper playfield is toast on mine.

There was a guy on here who was saying (I think) he could make them for $40 (each) but he would need one of us to send him the wire form off of our game. I am willing to do this but mine is missing the leg on the right (The one that attaches over top of or near the magna-save plastic. If I am able to get this guys attention would you guys be willing to buy one for that price? ( I was thinking maybe I'll have him make 10 or something ). I sent the guy a message but he hasn't logged in since may so I won't hold my breath Let me see if I can find someone local who can make them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-lower-wireform-chute-for-black-knight-2000

In short, yes!
Since this is a vulnerable part, it would be nice if a vendor or two kept some in stock, as well, since these will likely fail on "good" tables, at some point.

This is where mine broke. Oddly, it didn't break at the weld (underneath).

<soapbox> Frankly, this area could use a little re-engineering for robustness. The action of raising the upper PF puts a lot of stress on this crossmember & weld. The springs actually act as a flexible joint, but the action of raising the UPF transfers a significant rotational downward force to the welded joint. The challenge is the weld and crossmember can't be much bigger because it needs room for the ball to pass underneath, to make the BK challenge lock shot. It's not really a design flaw (the ability of the UPF to be lifted for servicing is fantastic), but, like most machines, it wasn't designed to last for 30 years! </soapbox>

I'd be elated to work with anyone who would like to try their hand at fashioning a better crossmember support.

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Cool, I have sent this request off to various local welders to see if they can build it. I am assuming I'll have to get someone else to chrome the batch and then I'll have to source the spring with a rubber tip (Looks like a door stopped might work for this if I can find the right size lol). I will report back once I get some responses. Thanks!

Interesting, one of the welders wants me to bring him the part to see if he can make it. He seems to think it is stainless steel. What do you guys think.

I'd be willing to purchase 1 if these were made...

Very cool, I plan on ordering 5 or 10 for the initial batch. My hope is if they turn out well I can get a bunch made and see if we can get them in stock with the usual suspects (I'm hoping to keep the cost down though).

Found this ... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-i-buildingmodifying-a-habitrail

I have made them and there is little to no information so here goes: made from 3mm (1/8") 303 Stainless steel, the spacing between them is 14mm (or 17mm centres). I print out full size and then bend the wires using a former (see attached) which is just a cylinder smaller than the smallest radius you want to make. The tabs are 3mm thick and can either be spot welded or silver soldered. i silver soldered mine as i didn't want any flats on the rails that spot welding may create.

Interesting... I didn't know they were made from 303 stainless. Also he seems to think they can be attached to each other using silver solder? I thought all this stuff was welded together. Would silver solder really have enough strength to hold a wire form together?

My impression from that post, and a little experience, is that silver solder is easier to use than spot welding (less expensive/complex equipment). As you say, even a good solder weld would not be nearly as robust as a good spot weld. I would greatly prefer spot welded habitrails, especially for a damage-prone piece.