Is it just me, or this game really difficult to loop? My best has been two loops, and that's hard... either because it comes screaming around that corner, or, sometimes it's not lined up flush with the flipper on the back end of the loop or it bricks off the turn into the end of the loop, then falling into the rollovers.

??

Got it! Sorry I had missed it before. Thanks again!

Do you have this message to operators document? It address that issue.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/311/Williams_1989_Black_Knight_2000_An_Important_Message_To_Operators.pdf

Chris

That is effin' AWESOME. I hadn't seen that before. Imagine being able to call Steve Ritchie and shooting the breeze. Too cool.

Just got my new backglass today, no complaints.

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This is really cool - thanks for sharing.

Does anyone know what the MSRP of Black Knight 2000 was when it was released?

DOn't know if anyone's answered this, but I had the same issue.

Interconnect board underneath the playfield, under the ramp area. GI connector there was cooked.

Just joined the club. Found a HUO. Looks like it never had the drop target decals. Here's a few pics. I haven't touched it yet. I hasn't been used in years. Should clean up nice. The mylar has some bubbles, but not sure what can be done about that. Haven't played it yet because the batteries leaked, gotta take care of that.

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Looks great! congrats! If the mylar is bubbling the only thing you can really do about it is remove the mylar which is a huge process. if its not bothering you and you aren't doing a full teardown i wouldn't bother. Just replace those rubbers, service your boards, and play!

Beautiful.

DO NOT TRY TO TAKE THE MYLAR OFF. I ruined a playfield doing this, and it turns out that the glue used on this and games immediately around this time take the art off with the mylar. Bubbles are normal on this machine... the one you have looks to be minimal and in great shape.

Congrats!

What method did you use for Mylar removal? I'm going to be removing mine, if it gets ruined I was considering the mirco reproduction anyways. I have used the freeze spray method successfully in the past on a 1990 Williams Rollergames and had no art come up.

When I first got mine, the mylar was really dull and wouldnt buff out to my satisfaction, so I removed it by freezing. Not only did none of the artwork come off, none of the glue came off. What was odd is that the glue was 100% intact, but virtually invisible... So I stood there and scratched my chin for a few minutes and decided what the hell, mylar is cheap, and I put new mylar right on top of the old glue just to see what it would look like.
Its still like that today, nobody can ever tell and my PF's are glossy and look brand new again.

By the way, I shouldn't have said that all mylar removal will take the art off on BK2K, but I don't think anyone's figured out a way to know if it will or if it won't. This was more than 15 years ago, so I'm not sure what order I tried the different methods, but none of

(1) Goo-gone
(2) Heat gun
(3) Freezing

produced any different results.

Unlike @theonlyest, I wasn't smart enough to try to leave the glue alone. (Brilliant idea!)

Very happy to see that Mirco repros are coming out. I have a decent example now, but definitely bubbles in the mylar and a worn Magnasave ring and Last Chance insert. The big debate: Do I try to swap it myself, or do I bite the bullet and go HEP?

Freeze spray method is supposed to leave the glue behind. glue removal is the second step. The best results for removing glue (at least from williams factory mylar from this time period) that I have found is to soak a paper towel in 91% iso alcohol and lay it on top of the glue area with something heavy on top for ~30 minutes. then use that paper towel and a fresh dry one to wipe up as much of the glue as possible, repeat as needed. ive never hurt any art with this method once the mylar itself was gone. Goo-gone does nearly nothing to this glue as far as i can tell, heat gun will make it gummy, but doesn't help in removal as far as i can tell.

Does anyone have a scan of the center playfield insert art? (the knight head) Mine is ghosting really badly and I am redoing all my insert decals anyways so id love to do the center too.

FYI, Mirco's repro playfield sets are now available to buy.

https://www.facebook.com/mircoplayfields/

I wish they came out last month, im too broke now and have to restore the one I have.

If anyone has a lower play field that looks pretty good (I know lots of people are about to buy up the repro play fields that are coming out), Please PM me as I would be interested. Ideally I'd buy a repro one as well but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Thanks!

Same here but hoping for a nice upper PF!

I think I'm gonna try to make my old pf into a functional coffee table, sorry boys

On that note, if anyone has a spare set of plastics (doesn't have to be in great shape) I'm in the market

Just finished up some minor repairs, changed to a tad bit brighter Comet GI LEDs in the upper playfield area, and cleaned/waxed it. It is ready to take your money.
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Hi all. Just joined the club. Anyone have or know where I can buy a set of wire ramps for it?

Since I need to buy a new oil tank for my house instead of a repro playfield like I wanted, I've been restoring my existing plan field. Mylar pulled up, glue removed, and now the inserts have been scraped clean of their prior finish and spiderwebbing. I think I have some ghosting on the large Knight decal in the very center, but I cannot find a scan of that art to make a decal. Does anyone have a playfield scan?

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Can someone get a good picture or just tell me what wires go where on the right flipper secondary EOS switch that powers the upper right flipper. This game was missing the complete flipper assembly. Just put one in I had laying around but need to ad the EOS for the upper flipper. I know I have one solid blue wire that was cut that leads to the upper flipper.

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I was able to recreate the center insert art using a good picture I found. Here is my result after about an hour editing, and a vectorizing program. If you use this in a restore let me know! EDIT: make sure to full size the image before saving/judging. Pinside's preview makes its grainy, undoing a half hours work.

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EDIT: Final versions in later post

The flippers on mine seem a little droopy compared to my other games. There are holes in the playfield, but I'm not sure how the are meant to be used. Right now they are covered by the flipper. With the hole about centered under the flipper bat. Not sure if this is meant to help with the shots on this particular playfield layout. Right now, the combo from the upper level to the lower right flipper and back up the skyway shot works pretty well.

Also, the wire rails under the flipper bats are all the way down. How were they positioned from the factory?

This is blasphemy, but I am now out of the club. I may be back at some point, but it was time for someone else to Enjoy my BK2K. I sold it on Friday at the Allentown show and the buyers seemed excited to get it. I hope it loves a long and happy life.

Chris

“You don’t have the power... you don’t have the might... but we know you’ll be back... you can’t resist the Black Knight!”

Thanks very much for this....I have been watching for one of these for a while.
Can you tell me what the scale is to get it down to the actual size for the art on the playfield?

Thanks
John

I haven't gotten that far yet. once i have trial and errored it to size ill post my findings

Anyone have or know where to find a couple pieces of plastic? I’m looking for the piece over the left bank of drop targets and the very large piece to the right of the upper flipper. Thanks in advance for the help.

can someone take a closeup picture of their kickback insert for me? My decal scan is missing kickback and i need something to compare my recreation to (font size, location, etc.)

Hi all. Joined the club this week. Few issues to sort out but having fun on this machine...the sounds are so good.
My pin area has a very low ceiling - so no toppers.
I have one of the really nice vacuum formed ones that I am selling in the market place if anyone is interested perfect condition.

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Congrats and welcome! You may want to post a link to your ad, I couldn't find it anywhere.

I want back in the club

Anyone want to trade for a nice black hole and some cash?

Does anyone have a scan or good picture of the "T Shirt" sticker? The one next to the circular service screw sticker? Mine is missing and I find I'd like to reproduce it if possible.

Picked one of these up at Allentown, I believe it was from SilverUnicorn. Game is in good shape, I pulled off the mylar and buffed the playfield. Just need to take care of the inserts and get it back together.

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And I shall follow your progress! Glad you're enjoying it.

Chris

Anyone have a spare set of plastics for sale? Or is there anywhere to buy a repro set?

I am considering buying all parts to build up my playfield instead of transferring, that way I have a fully populated set I can do a working coffee table with it or even drop it in an empty cab. Is this a trash idea? Am I looking at spending more than $5-600 on parts?

This exact shot is why I would like to track down a real BK2000 to play a few games. I hit lots of successive upper PF loops on Pinball Arcade and would like to see if I can do it the same way non-digitally. And during multiball.

It seems like strictly a timing thing where you want to hit the flipper button as the ball crosses about the midpoint of the flipper. Too late and the flipper dividers deflect it or you whiff completely. On PA I have more of a time making the lock shot ramp behind the drawbridge than I do shooting the loop. For the ramp you seem to have to engage the flipper as soon as the ball hits it when it travels fast. The more slowly it rolls around the orbit, hit the ball with the lower half of the flipper, much like you're shooting the orbit from the lower PF right flipper.

On a fast playing game, the upper loop is tough for me to hit more than 3 times... I think my loop champion is 7 and I've owned the game for more than 20 years.

While I'm doing the playfield swap on mine, I'm replacing anything that doesn't look new. A plastics set, new pop bumper bodies, caps, rings, lamp sockets, new star posts, lane guides, flipper bats, a titan ring kit... that stuff alone is getting close to the $600 mark, and that's nothing underneath the playfield. I haven't even bought flipper rebuild kits, etc.

I also think you'd have a very very hard time finding the wood rails, game-specific metal guides, etc. And repro ramps alone are not cheap. I think you'd be looking at a couple grand to populate a new set of playfields piecemeal. Just my opinion...

My restoration is entering the final stages. Here is the center insert art completed and ready for final clearcoat. I'm going to post the files required to do this in a post right after this one.

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1. Completed artwork. will work best if you want to edit it for your own purposes, Don't have a cutting machine, or want to use clear decals (because you are lazy)

2. What you print on the white backed decal if you have a Silhouette Cameo cutting machine like me (grab one used for $100. totally worth it if you ever do insert decals)

3. What you use to generate cut lines in the silhouette software.

Print at 64.5mm scale
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Thanks so much for this. I'm putting mine back together now and would have gotten it ALL screwed up. I'd add the post rubbers that divide the lanes on the lower PF.

Will do! I suggest putting the thinner walled post rubber on the upper playfield top right post, as well. It makes for a more satisfying loop experience.

Can someone take a photo of their Magnasave plastic for me? the straighter and higher the resolution the better. I want to make my own replacement plastic and I need the art. I will make my work available to the community when its done.

PM Sent.

Thanks very much for this.....
John