Thank you very much!
Need to find the large castle plastic over the ball lock if anyone has one or a source.
Thank you very much!
Need to find the large castle plastic over the ball lock if anyone has one or a source.
Quoted from scottmaggie:Thank you very much!
Need to find the large castle plastic over the ball lock if anyone has one or a source.
I can check in my box-o-plastics tomorrow for you.
Chris
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:I can check in my box-o-plastics tomorrow for you.
Chris
Awesome. Sent you a PM.
Quoted from darcangeloel:Does anyone think they will have reproduction play fields for Bk2k one day. Sure would be nice
Believe there is a repro being worked on overseas. Can't recall at the moment who mentioned it. (Mirco or Peter?)
Quoted from Coyote:Believe there is a repro being worked on overseas. Can't recall at the moment who mentioned it. (Mirco or Peter?)
Did you have any links or anything about it? Just curious. It would be very awesome. I wonder what the cost would be roughly? MY hope would be sub $1,000 but that might be unrealistic given it's a full sized pf and a mini pf.
Quoted from darcangeloel:Did you have any links or anything about it? Just curious. It would be very awesome. I wonder what the cost would be roughly? MY hope would be sub $1,000 but that might be unrealistic given it's a full sized pf and a mini pf.
Tonight after I get home I'll see if I can find the reference, sure. I'm thinking it's Mirco, since Peter is doing Roadshow. I remember thinking that I'm going to need one from both of them..
Quoted from darcangeloel:Did you have any links or anything about it? Just curious. It would be very awesome. I wonder what the cost would be roughly? MY hope would be sub $1,000 but that might be unrealistic given it's a full sized pf and a mini pf.
Read to the end of the post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/addams-family-mirco-reproplayfields-taf-and-tafg#post-3975831
I have a BK2K PF set that is in great condition with the Mylar (and glue) removed. There are some inserts that appear to have been pulled up when the Mylar was removed and the printing on inserts is chipping (not the inserts). Looking at the Magna Save wear (none) and the kickback lane wear it appears this game did not get used much before someone decided to part it out.
I bought this PF about 14 years ago with the aspirations of perhaps one day making the perfect BK2K...but I am thinking that day is most likely never coming.
I am trying to gauge interest in selling it as I know there is a repo coming at some point and I am not sure if anyone would be interested in something like this..
Quoted from Jo4114:I have a BK2K PF set that is in great condition with the Mylar (and glue) removed. There are some inserts that appear to have been pulled up when the Mylar was removed and the printing on inserts is chipping (not the inserts). Looking at the Magna Save wear (none) and the kickback lane wear it appears this game did not get used much before someone decided to part it out.
I bought this PF about 14 years ago with the aspirations of perhaps one day making the perfect BK2K...but I am thinking that day is most likely never coming.
I am trying to gauge interest in selling it as I know there is a repo coming at some point and I am not sure if anyone would be interested in something like this..
Unfortunately, this is nowhere near "great" condition... the insert crazing is tragic. It would need to be professionally restored and clearcoated before it would be worth doing a full swap, over buying a new repro. So your price plus the cost of restoration would still need to be lower than a new repro. Which basically means you'd have to give it away. I saw a PF set on ebay like 4 months ago in similar condition with a staring bid of $350, it ended with no bids.
Someone could have their own existing PF restored without the added cost of buying this. If I were to buy this, it would be to hang it on the wall, and for that purpose, I wouldn't pay much for it. Do you even have the upper PF?
My suggestion, because you already own it, would be to stick with "plan A" and have this restored yourself, and build that perfect game.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Unfortunately, this is nowhere near "great" condition... the insert crazing is tragic. It would need to be professionally restored and clearcoated before it would be worth doing a full swap, over buying a new repro. So your price plus the cost of restoration would still need to be lower than a new repro. Which basically means you'd have to give it away. I saw a PF set on ebay like 4 months ago in similar condition with a staring bid of $350, it ended with no bids.
Someone could have their own existing PF restored without the added cost of buying this. If I were to buy this, it would be to hang it on the wall, and for that purpose, I wouldn't pay much for it. Do you even have the upper PF?
My suggestion, because you already own it, would be to stick with "plan A" and have this restored yourself, and build that perfect game.
Nah, the inserts are fine.. No crazing at all. The insert art is what is giving that impression, it is definitely coming off and would need to be replaced with new insert decals but underneath the plastics are fine.
It does need work but based on the BK2K PF's I have seen a full restore is a bit much..but I get your point. It would still need some of the inserts heated up and pounded, all would need decal'd, and then cleared which is a good bit of money. I also have the UPF, it's in better condition.
Quoted from La4s:What you are looking to get for it?
I had not given in much thought, I know I am not going to get to it and with repo's being kicked around (nothing released yet of course) I was trying to see if it would be worth even putting up on the marketplace..
Quoted from Jo4114:Nah, the inserts are fine.. No crazing at all. The insert art is what is giving that impression, it is definitely coming off and would need to be replaced with new insert decals but underneath the plastics are fine.
Guess I should have been more specific, the clearcoat is crazing on top of the inserts. Several of the good restorers out there wont even touch these because that original clearcoat has to be chipped and stripped off. Its a ton of extra work, and nobody wants to pay all that extra labor.
Another option for you would be to have the PF's restored, then sell them for a profit!
Still haven't figured out why my GI lights in my pop bumpers dim over time. At least most of the time they do, as the game stays on. Rest of the game seems OK, but I do know that when I bought the game with standard bulbs installed, it was quite dim until I put in LED throughout the whole pin. Maybe the Power supply board and or the Aux power board capacitors are going bad? Not sure how to test them to see if they are going bad. Game itself works great. I can turn the game off and back on again the pop bumpers will glow brighter, then dim over time. I've checked connections, even tapped on connectors/shook wires to see if something would flicker with no avail. Has anyone used Xpin boards compared to Rottendog ones? was thinking of just ordering new power supply boards to get fresh new technology into this great game to try and fix this minor but frustrating issue.
Ok after Comparing my space shuttle pin and black knight, seems the entire upper playfield GI lights are dimmer ( I installed similar co Braked LEDs) but the pop bumpers are the most noticeable (cointakers jetbumper LEDs). At the interconnect board, I think it was J9, after pulling it ,that killed the GI light for the upper playfield. Maybe there is a cold solder joint on this board causing the dimmed lighting but the light intensity doesn’t change if I wiggle the connector in place. Maybe the aux power board? Any suggestions would be great to trouble shoot next. Otherwise may load the parts cannon and order a new aux and main power board.
OK now thinking it's the backbox interconnect board, or at least a connector. Can someone show me a pick of what the connector on J6 should look like? Mine appears to have been "fixed" with RTV and I want to see how the wires should look on that connector. The last 3 or 4 pins, top side, of this connector have RTV on them with no wires, I assume to prevent shocks since the plastic is broken off on the top part of this connector. Odd thing is if I wiggle this connector, the back box GI lights flicker, not the playfield GI lights.
Thank you,
Joined this club today! Super excited!
Display doesn't work though so I'm probably going to have to pick up a pinscore since I can't find any used displays. Also has broken sling plastics and the drawbridge doesn't lower. Haven't checked into why yet. Anyone have an extra display or sling plastics they want to sell?
How much do used working displays go for? I have a working display but all my other system 11s all have new Pinscores in them and I was thinking about adding one just so it matched up better.
If anyone has the following parts available to sell or trade please let me know...
1. "Magna Save when Lit" plastic
2. The metal bracket for holding the upper playfield down
Thanks guys!
Quoted from Yesh23:How much do used working displays go for? I have a working display but all my other system 11s all have new Pinscores in them and I was thinking about adding one just so it matched up better.
My guess would be $120-$150.
Well here it is. Been kicking my ass for two weeks now. Something a mess at every turn...screws breaking off, ramps cracked, etc. It's now 100% mechanically sound and shopped. Still some tweaks, mods and cosmetic stuff to do.
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I have this game on trade for my johnny mnemonic and im not gonna lie.. im putting off trade back day! Love this game and will own one someday!
Thanks Chris!
You like the black wafers and bodies for the pops?
I also made the right flippers work separately like most multi flipper games work.
Quoted from scottmaggie:Thanks Chris!
You like the black wafers and bodies for the pops?
I also made the right flippers work separately like most multi flipper games work.
Personally I think they look good!
There's a loose lock nut on the playfield in your corrected drawbridge rubber picture.
Chrirs
I decided to make the missing page from the Black Knight 2000 manual after my latest rubber change out to a full set of super-bands from CoinTaker
Please let me know if you would like any improvements or if you see any critical flaws.
Quoted from cletus:I decided to make the missing page from the Black Knight 2000 manual after my latest rubber change out to a full set of super-bands from cointaker
Please let me know if you would like any improvements or if you see any critical flaws.
Awesome work on this.
Bonjour,
At last, I've picked up my new baby yesterday --> Black Knight 2000
This is one of the 2 pinballs I wanted to buy to start my caveman collection.
Real clean game. The guy who sold it to me really took care of it.
Playfield, backglass are A1.
All leds.
The sound of this pin is just incredible !
And my wife is happy.
She already wants to compete vs me, thinking she's a better pin player, LOL !!!
'' Show me your money '' --> Nope, it is a free game ! :0)))
Quoted from Vectakk:Bonjour,
At last, I've picked up my new baby yesterday --> Black Knight 2000
This is one of the 2 pinballs I wanted to buy to start my caveman collection.
Real clean game. The guy who sold it to me really took care of it.
Playfield, backglass are A1.
All leds.
The sound of this pin is just incredible !
And my wife is happy.
She already wants to compete vs me, thinking she's a better pin player, LOL !!!
'' Show me your money '' --> Nope, it is a free game ! :0)))
So interesting.
Could you please show us some pics the bottom of the playfield?
The backlight of the center target is on my focus, I like these pimps... not more.
I recently found an issue on a BK2000 project that I am working on. The wiring bundle under the upper playfield is getting "cut / wiring sheath scraped" from what looks like the metal upstanding in the horseshoe area on the playfield below. Has anyone seen this before?
I looked at the metal upstands along the horseshoe area and they don't seem to be sticking up past where I would think they should be but when
the upper playfield is lowered the wiring bundle under the middle of the upper playfield seems to rest/rub there. It seems that the wiring
is getting in the way of putting the upper playfield all the way down far enough to put the retaining screw in the back of the machine.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Dumb question: is there any source identifying which plastic spacers go where? In switching out the plastic set over the course of several weeks/months I have a few strays in different lengths I can't figure out where to place.
The game I picked up is pretty beat but my magna save plastic is OK. Now that I know this is a typical plastic to break I'll protect it. What other plastics / parts are typical problem areas on this game?
Playfield honestly. Mylar bubbles, insert wear, magnasave wear, lock lane wear... apparently new playfields are right around the corner tho, so...
As for plastics, slings maybe? I've had a couple BK2Ks and I don't remember any plastics being particularly prone to damage.
Quoted from McSquid:The game I picked up is pretty beat but my magna save plastic is OK. Now that I know this is a typical plastic to break I'll protect it. What other plastics / parts are typical problem areas on this game?
The corners on the slingshots at the bottom tend to break off (Like with most games) so put some plastic washers on those to keep them nice. I think all the other plastics on mine are in pretty good shape but yeah play field wear is pretty common on this game. I am excited for the Micro reproduction BK2K Playfield to come out (Should be sometime soon).
Ok, typical stuff it sounds like. I started my teardown last night and it turns out I will need a magnasave plastic after all as mine is very cracked. I was mistaken as to which plastic was being referenced. I'm also excited for mirco playfields.
Anyone have any of the following they would like to sell me?
Magna save plastic (31-1006-563-4-sp)
Left drop plastic (31-1006-563-23-sp)
Rear right loop plastic (31-1006-563-27-sp)
Cabinet decal (right side only)
Quoted from McSquid:Anyone have any of the following they would like to sell me?
Magna save plastic (31-1006-563-4-sp)
Left drop plastic (31-1006-563-23-sp)
Rear right loop plastic (31-1006-563-27-sp)
Cabinet decal (right side only)
I have a Castle style Magna Save sign but it's broken. If you have nothign it's better than that, but not much else.
I also have the rear right loop plastic. Used, in fair condition.
I have 2 of the left drop plasics as well. One used (and broken) with the 2nd tier on it, and one new reproduction with incorrect colors (and no 2nd tier).
See pics. You can have any of these for free unless you want the new left drop plastic, which would be $10 shipped.
Let me know.
Chris
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Quoted from SilverUnicorn:I have a Castle style Magna Save sign but it's broken. If you have nothign it's better than that, but not much else.
I also have the rear right loop plastic. Used, in fair condition.
I have 2 of the left drop plasics as well. One used (and broken) with the 2nd tier on it, and one new reproduction with incorrect colors (and no 2nd tier).
See pics. You can have any of these for free unless you want the new left drop plastic, which would be $10 shipped.
Let me know.
Chris
PM sent.
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:The only plastic on my game that's broken is the right slingshot plastic, anyone have one?
I will check my stuff and see what I have.
Quoted from McSquid:PM sent.
Did you get my email? Your plastics are on the way
Chris
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:The only plastic on my game that's broken is the right slingshot plastic, anyone have one?
Unfortunately I don't have one of these in my spares. Sorry.
Chris
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