When I power the machine on, the playfield electrify's wants to blow the solenoid fuse, when I take out the left side seven amp slow blow fuse on the power supply It doesn't electrify but the game still won't boot voltage problem it's a system seven.
First do a resistance test on the solenoid that fires, make sure it's not fried. If it's not bad, find out if the transistor that drives it is bad (could be locked on). Of course that probably wouldn't blow a fuse necessarily, I would check for a bad wire causing resistance to go up.
The solenoid isn't locking on you can see electricity through the flipper relays underneath the playfield they glow bright green also a lot of buzzing. When I can get the game started everything works fine play the game for a few hours plays fine. Shut it off for more than 45 minutes to let it cool down the game has a hard time turning back on.
Have you done the standard fixes yet? Sounds like it could be an interconnect issue.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6
On the power supply all capacitors have been changed along with the high-voltage resistors the female interconnector was totally replace male connector seems really good all connectors look pretty good nothing is burnt reflow solder on all the pin connectors as well.
More often than not, this is an issue with the board interconnect, but there are other more complex reasons too.
i'd try re-seating the driver board and see if it help. If that does cure it, remember it is only a temporary fix and plan on doing the interconnect some time in the future.
I did the female side of the 40 interconnect I guess you mean do the male side on the mpu any other thoughts on what it could be. When the game has been on for a few hours turn it off, turn it back on it boots great, no electrical problems but when the games been off for more than 45 minutes to an hour it doesn't want to turn back on and I run into that energizing playfield issue. Along with blowing the solenoid fuse when powering up.
I find just as many problems on the male side, mainly due to ring cracks in the solder joints, and when the board house that did the original manufacturing opted to grind too much on the pins and weaken the joins.
Often you can get away with just removing the old solder and applying fresh, if there's enough material of the pin sticking through the back of the board, but if it was ground down flush you need new headers.
-Hans
One other thing I have eight lights out on the playfield it's the multipliers and the top of the sword I believe it is column eight row 1 if you could tell me what transistor that is, I could change it up thanks. I don't have any schematics.
This may help as I could not tell what exact switches you were referring to .My first thought was column 8 which is 2J5 pin #2, row 8 is 2J7 pin #8
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/310/Williams_1980_Black_Knight_Operators_Handbook.pdf
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
North Bay, ON
Allyn, WA