(Topic ID: 211903)

Black Jack - 1977 Solid State and EM Club

By Robotworkshop

6 years ago


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  • 55 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by atpcfiaim
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 55 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

Unless I missed it there doesn't seem to be a club for the 1977 Bally Black Jack machine. So it seems like a good time to start one!

I recently picked up a non-working Black Jack project machine that had obviously been sitting for years. Although the playfield was extremely dirty I think the machine will clean up well. I've started cleaning the playfield and after getting it running 100% will tear down the top of the playfield for a proper cleaning and shop job. I'm in the process of rebuilding the original MPU board but a friend let me borrow his spare and I was able to get the machine to come up. Got some parts in today and will replace the two burned up chime coils and check all the appropriate drivers. Other than that the only other problems is a switch that won't register and one lamp I can't get to work. I suspect the connectors are going to be the issues with those. Also two displays had missing digits and if I'm lucky I will be able to get those running too.

So for those that have had this game working for a while what do you like best about it and what are your strategies for high scores?

I think this game would be a great candidate for some updated code. When the dealer wins a hand I think it should subtract points. That would make it more interesting!

BJ_1 (resized).jpgBJ_1 (resized).jpg
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#2 6 years ago

Presently the game still has the traditional lamps installed on the playfield. For the backglass I installed warm white LED's to save power on the GI and reduce heat. The computer controlled lamps were changed to #47 bulbs.

#3 6 years ago

I ordered a use Bally Knocker coil since the one in my machine was gone. Just two wires hanging in the back box. Does anyone have a picture of the original one installed to make sure I can get it installed the right way?

BJ_3 (resized).jpgBJ_3 (resized).jpg

#5 6 years ago

The buzzer just doesn’t cut it.

Quoted from zacaj:

No love for the EM?

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from Gizmonic:

The buzzer just doesn’t cut it.

Get me a bell!

#7 6 years ago

Ah' yes, there is nothing quite like the 'thwak' of an old Bally knocker!

Here is a picture of my 1977 Eight Ball. With the correct parts, installation of the knocker coil should be pretty straight forward.

20180310_074638 (resized).jpg20180310_074638 (resized).jpg

#8 6 years ago

Strategy for high score on that game is definitely the bonus multiplier! I agree, different game code would be nice...or add another digit to the score display! Very sad when you have to tilt out of a game before the score goes back to zero!
Many good Times with that game, but had to part ways...
I still have a new plastic set if anyone is interested in purchasing it...
Brad

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Farlander:

Ah' yes, there is nothing quite like the 'thwak' of an old Bally knocker!
Here is a picture of my 1977 Eight Ball. With the correct parts, installation of the knocker coil should be pretty straight forward.

Thanks for the picture! I was able to find the whole knocker assembly on eBay. It even includes the screws. I'll clean it up first but it should be an easy install. Two screws and two wires to solder. Probably a fresh diode on it too.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No love for the EM?

The EM machines are great too. I actually have an old Duotron EM which In other threads.

From what I've read there weren't too many of the EM Black Jack games made. If someone has one and wants to talk about game play and how it compares to the solid state version that's fine with me.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

The EM machines are great too. I actually have an old Duotron EM which In other threads.
From what I've read there weren't too many of the EM Black Jack games made. If someone has one and wants to talk about game play and how it compares to the solid state version that's fine with me.

There's no option to have dealer win ties. Spinner only advances bonus at the top light. Instead of randomizing hands at the beginning of the ball, it advances the dealer once per bonus scored as you drain.

#12 6 years ago

This explains the issue with the chimes. There were two bad coils. One was disconnected and the other had a bad driver transistor. Installed a new TIP102, 1N4004 Diode, two new coils (w/diodes), new sleeves, and cleaned up the plungers. Now all the chimes are working and sound good. Also finsihed rebuilding the MPU board with new DIP sockets, new .100" connectors, two new tantalum caps, and now an NVRAM module. The original 5101 that was on board tested bad. Also replaced a couple traces with wire wrap wire on the top of the board. It is back in and working.

Need to replace pins in the connectors in the harness (there is some green slime in a couple pins) and then clean all the switches.

Next block of time will strip down the top of the playfield for a proper cleaning, polish, wax, and fresh rubber rings.

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#13 6 years ago

The replacement knocker assembly arrived today. Got it installed and works great. It's nice that all the wires are connected again. No more hanging wires!

#14 6 years ago

Now that the game is running well I have been looking at ways to improve it. The changes I think would be really improve the game and fix a complaint I heard about the rules:

- Instead of randomizing the hand at the beginning of each ball for each player just do it for player 1 at the beginning of each ball and save that value so that player 2, 3, and 4 also start out with the same hand. That would even the playing field if the game is used in a tournament. The changes for that would entail saving that hand value in a couple unallocated bytes of RAM that the remaining players would pull the hand value from instead of generating another random number.

- When the ball falls into the saucer if the dealer beats the player then whatever value would be gained it should be subtracted from the players score. If that would fall below zero then just make the score zero.

- As a stretch maybe used the 4 chimes to play the dirge tune like the 1975 Midway Gunfight game when the player uses. Or three low chimes with a pause between. Have to thing about that since it could be annoying.

Does anyone else have any suggestions? I think the ones above are obtainable. Not sure of other enhancements like timed skill shots, etc (too much for now) but if there are any other simple changes that may help let me know.

#15 6 years ago

Do you include losing bonus multipliers in that? I think it'd be cool to lose the 5k but that might be too much. Modding the ROM to lose 5k might be tricky though, there's no code for subtracting points. Easier to just award 0

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Do you include losing bonus multipliers in that? I think it'd be cool to lose the 5k but that might be too much. Modding the ROM to lose 5k might be tricky though, there's no code for subtracting points. Easier to just award 0

I'm not sure yet but I'm going to give it a try. Not winning anything would be a good start but in reality if you are betting against the dealer the more you are likely to win then the more you can lose. I think it may be good to think about factoring in the bonus factor. Will have to give that some consideration.

I just tore down the playfield to clean everything and noticed one of the tips was missing for the slingshots. I need to order a pair of those and some lamp sockets. While I'm waiting I can poke around in the ROM's

Robert

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I'm not sure yet but I'm going to give it a try. Not winning anything would be a good start but in reality if you are betting against the dealer the more you are likely to win then the more you can lose. I think it may be good to think about factoring in the bonus factor. Will have to give that some consideration.
I just tore down the playfield to clean everything and noticed one of the tips was missing for the slingshots. I need to order a pair of those and some lamp sockets. While I'm waiting I can poke around in the ROM's
Robert

Alternate idea: you lose 1k bonus x current multiplier

#18 6 years ago

I just picked one up myself. The pf isn’t nearly as nice as yours, but the cab and backglass are great. My only issue is it won’t start a game. I need to test the diode on the start button when I get home at the end of the week.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I just picked one up myself. The pf isn’t nearly as nice as yours, but the cab and backglass are great. My only issue is it won’t start a game. I need to test the diode on the start button when I get home at the end of the week.

I'd also check all the connectors at the CPU and look for cold solder joints and broken solder connections. I ran into several when I replaced the connectors on the boards.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No love for the EM?

The EM version plays much better
It has a faster than usual score motor that allows very fast bonus scoring. Plus, the backglass art is very nice on the eyes. Nothing wrong with the SS version as I like the fluorescent colors on it.
The EM version being two players is perfect for competitive play. 3 or 4 players seems like too much in a bar when you are playing for beer or dollars. Scratch that, "For Amusement Only"......

#21 6 years ago
Quoted from MrBally:

The EM version plays much better
It has a faster than usual score motor that allows very fast bonus scoring. Plus, the backglass art is very nice on the eyes. Nothing wrong with the SS version as I like the fluorescent colors on it.
The EM version being two players is perfect for competitive play. 3 or 4 players seems like too much in a bar when you are playing for beer or dollars. Scratch that, "For Amusement Only"......

We'll let Pinfixer chime in about the EM vs. SS version differences. He may be delayed from being at this weekend's Arcade Expo in Banning......

#22 6 years ago

Anyone need parts? This one has termite damage and I’m going to part it out. PM me.

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Anyone need parts? This one has termite damage and I’m going to part it out. PM me.

Termites? That sucks. I wonder how often that happens. Is it just in the cabinet or the playfield too? If it's truly gone that at least I hope it can help save other games.

#24 6 years ago

Tilt Graphics Inc
Custom Magnetic ApronSkin
https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/black-jack

ApronSkins-Black-Jack (resized).jpgApronSkins-Black-Jack (resized).jpg

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

No love for the EM?

Changed the title so that all the Bally Black Jack owners can participate.....

#26 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Alternate idea: you lose 1k bonus x current multiplier

Thanks to some help and encouragement from Quench I am making progress on some updated code for Black Jack. Instead of gaining 5000 points and any bonus when the ball lands in the dealer saucer when the dealer is winning it now does:

- Any pending points are lost.
- No point are awarded since you lost and should gain anything.
- Plays a different tune - could use ideas for a good tune.

What is yet to be done.

- If you lose besides the loss of pending points you will also lose the 5000 points you would have gained. If the score is less than zero then you'll end up with zero points.
- Create a better more appropriate pair of losing tunes:
- One short one for losing and your score is above zero.
- One slightly longer one (funeral dirage) if your score goes down to zero.

As a stretch goal I may try to have the random hand just be referenced from the first player so that all players in a game start out with the same dealer hand.

I think these changes will make the game a lot more interesting.

What I could use help on is with the tunes. I am not a musical person and could use a hand figuring out what chimes should be used, the sequence, and the timing. There are four chimes that can be used. One byte (two hex digits) are used to define each one.

First digit is the duration. The large the value the longer the duration. Ones used in the game are 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7. This is the time before the next chime will fire. The second digit is the chime coil. These are 1, 2, 3, or 4.

For reference the coin inserted tune goes like:
34 31 32 53 32 73

Replay chime is:
35

Power up tune is:
32 32 53 31 31 52 34 34 51 31 31 71

Start up tune is:
54 51 52 63 33 33 43 62 32 32 42 51 52 51 74

Does anyone want to try putting together some tunes to try?

In the meantime I will work on the other code changes.

Robert

#27 6 years ago

Something quick to try, a double 4 note down sliding scale.
63 63 62 62 71 71 74 74

I haven't checked, what happens if you use a delay greater than 7? i.e. is the most significant bit in the data used for something else?

Just need any tune ideas made up of 4 notes.
.

Quoted from zacaj:

Modding the ROM to lose 5k might be tricky though, there's no code for subtracting points.

There is code for performing subtraction (decrementing credits when starting/adding players). It should be easy to hook the subtraction mechanism into the point score queue but I'm sure Robotworkshop is having fun with coding and may want to do it his own way

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

There is code for performing subtraction (decrementing credits when starting/adding players).

I'd assume that's only single decrements, not large numbers...

#29 6 years ago

I have a mint NOS backglass if anyone needs one for their game and I will be going to the Allentown show so could deliver there.

#30 6 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

I'd assume that's only single decrements, not large numbers...

I tried it the other night and it worked subtracting lots of 1000 (instead of adding lots of 1000).
But as you said, subtraction isn't built into the point scoring routines so it needs to be hooked into it.

#31 6 years ago

Thanks Mr. Bally

I think each game has it's own "catch" like the "winner" buzzer on the EM, and the rapid dah-dah-dah-ding-ding-ding when you beat the dealer on the SS version. Personally I have both, and the EM is my fave. I'm a diehard Solid State Bally guy, and the EM rocks the SS version. I think for me it's the art package, the fact it's a 5x multiplier EM, and the EM is just plain hard to find. Most casual collectors don't even know there was an EM version at I think 125 made.

Anyone ever considered making an alt backglass for the SS version using the EM backglass artwork?? Since the playfield art is the same (different color scheme though) it would seem to fit in OK.

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Anyone ever considered making an alt backglass for the SS version using the EM backglass artwork?? Since the playfield art is the same (different color scheme though) it would seem to fit in OK.

I've always wanted the opposite!

#33 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

I tried it the other night and it worked subtracting lots of 1000 (instead of adding lots of 1000).
But as you said, subtraction isn't built into the point scoring routines so it needs to be hooked into it.

I didn't need to worry about the subtraction routine. I just leveraged the existing addition code. Adding the 10's complement of 1000 to the score rolls it over less 1000 points. The code seems to work the way I hoped it would. If you win everything it normal. If you lose then you lose any pending points and also the 5000 you would have gained bu landing in the saucer. If you don't watch how you play you could get back down to 00. Chimes are used in a different way when you lose and if you hit 00. It needs some more testing but it should make the game a lot more interesting.

#34 6 years ago

I love Black Jack always something to shoot for!

#35 6 years ago

Well I am pleased to report that the updated ROM code works! I think it definitely improves the game play. If the player wins when landing in the dealer saucer all is normal. However, if the ball lands in there when the dealer is winning:

- And pending points are lost
- Short lost tune played (Thanks @Quench)
- Player score decreases by 5000 in 1000 decrements (and chimes)
- If player score reaches 0 or lower then the score is reset to 0 and another dirge tune is played.

It is really an odd thing to watch you score go down as the extra chime sounds.....

The checksum was recalculated so just the game ROM is changed. Since the board is setup for 9316 ROM types I didn't want to hack it so I just lifted a couple leads on the new 2716 EPROM and added a jumper from the EPROM to a lead on U17. Easily reversible.

I'm happy with the way this turned out and learned a lot. Now back to a few remaining issues (adjust a switch, fix some lamp sockets, and clean cabinet) and then enjoy the game,

Robert

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Well I am pleased to report that the updated ROM code works! I think it definitely improves the game play. If the player wins when landing in the dealer saucer all is normal. However, if the ball lands in there when the dealer is winning:
- And pending points are lost
- Short lost tune played (Thanks Quench)
- Player score decreases by 5000 in 1000 decrements (and chimes)
- If player score reaches 0 or lower then the score is reset to 0 and another dirge tune is played.
It is really an odd thing to watch you score go down as the extra chime sounds.....
The checksum was recalculated so just the game ROM is changed. Since the board is setup for 9316 ROM types I didn't want to hack it so I just lifted a couple leads on the new 2716 EPROM and added a jumper from the EPROM to a lead on U17. Easily reversible.
I'm happy with the way this turned out and learned a lot. Now back to a few remaining issues (adjust a switch, fix some lamp sockets, and clean cabinet) and then enjoy the game,
Robert

Nice! Now I need to find a SS Black Jack...

#37 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Well I am pleased to report that the updated ROM code works! I think it definitely improves the game play. If the player wins when landing in the dealer saucer all is normal. However, if the ball lands in there when the dealer is winning:
- And pending points are lost
- Short lost tune played (Thanks Quench)
- Player score decreases by 5000 in 1000 decrements (and chimes)
- If player score reaches 0 or lower then the score is reset to 0 and another dirge tune is played.
It is really an odd thing to watch you score go down as the extra chime sounds.....
The checksum was recalculated so just the game ROM is changed. Since the board is setup for 9316 ROM types I didn't want to hack it so I just lifted a couple leads on the new 2716 EPROM and added a jumper from the EPROM to a lead on U17. Easily reversible.
I'm happy with the way this turned out and learned a lot. Now back to a few remaining issues (adjust a switch, fix some lamp sockets, and clean cabinet) and then enjoy the game,
Robert

Are you going to offer the code for us fellow BJ owners? Fingers crossed.

#38 6 years ago
Quoted from psd4me:

Are you going to offer the code for us fellow BJ owners? Fingers crossed.

That's the plan. I just thought the game deserved it and it was a fun way to use some of my old programming skills. While I wrote the updated code I couldn't have done it so fast without the collaboration of Quench to help figure out some of the original code and decipher memory usage, etc.

I want to get some more play time on the machine to make sure it is solid. Then need to figure out the best way to share the changes. Someone mentioned that there could be an issue posting custom versions on the IPDB so I'm not sure if it can go up there. I can put them on 2716's but since most boards are probably setup for the original 9316 ROM's either the board needs to be modified for the 2716 chip or the chip legs lifted and a single jumper soldered to the board as I did. This seemed a good approach since just that one wire can be unsoldered and the original ROM plugged back in if you want to go back.

#39 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

That's the plan. I just thought the game deserved it and it was a fun way to use some of my old programming skills. While I wrote the updated code I couldn't have done it so fast without the collaboration of quench to help figure out some of the original code and decipher memory usage, etc.
I want to get some more play time on the machine to make sure it is solid. Then need to figure out the best way to share the changes. Someone mentioned that there could be an issue posting custom versions on the IPDB so I'm not sure if it can go up there. I can put them on 2716's but since most boards are probably setup for the original 9316 ROM's either the board needs to be modified for the 2716 chip or the chip legs lifted and a single jumper soldered to the board as I did. This seemed a good approach since just that one wire can be unsoldered and the original ROM plugged back in if you want to go back.

You should be able to release a patch (eg, with https://fusoya.eludevisibility.org/lips/) legally. Sadly there's no central place to post them though

#40 6 years ago

Doesn't PinMame post custom code?

http://www.vpforums.org/

3 weeks later
#41 6 years ago

Does anyone know the correct year for Black Jack? Pinside shows the SS version as 1977 but IPDB shows a project date of 1976 and a production date of 1978. Anyone have any insight as to which one is right?

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone know the correct year for Black Jack?

Looks like it was June 1978 for the solid state production according to the Bally 1979 Parts Catalog:

Bally_Chronological_GameOrder.jpgBally_Chronological_GameOrder.jpg

#43 5 years ago

Then I guess it would be good to get the Pinside entry updated. Thanks for the clarification.

#44 5 years ago

Weird that they list the EM as being four player

11 months later
#45 5 years ago

Just joined the Black Jack club! Scored a barn find this morning - perhaps literally. This Black Jack was in an estate sale and looks to have been sitting for years (and years). $98.75. Actually, I bought it for $100 but after I got it home, I found 5 quarters stuck in the coin mechs.

It was a slight gamble in that they didn't have any keys to open it up so I couldn't look inside to see what's there or not there. It powered on (most all of the GI lights come on) but it didn't boot. Of course, they wouldn't let me drill the locks out until I bought it. So I did...figured worst case I might get some cabinet hardware compatible with my other late 70's Bally projects and if any of the displays or boards worked or in good enough shape to be rebuilt, that would be a bonus.

Found lots of dirt, debris, and several abandoned wasp nests in both the cabinet and the backbox. The backglass is surprisingly about a 7/10....no flaking and just a few scratches. The cabinet is somewhere between poor and a basket case...MIGHT be salvageable but that'll be a big job. The MPU, SDB, and Lamp boards are all there and actually look good...no burns, hacks, or anything except for a spider's nest and wasp nest on the SDB. The MPU still has the original battery installed and no corrosion damage at all. The original cage around the power supply is even still there. Big old wasp nest camped out on the Player 3 display board. Someone put in a Stern SDU-100 at some point to replace the original Bally SDB.

The playfield has a few wear marks here and there but nothing serious. I think with a little elbow grease, the playfield will clean up nicely. No broken plastic pieces tho most are warped from the incandescent bulbs. The playfield underside is oddly clean and the metals parts free of rust.

I'm a few weeks away from finishing my Mata Hari project and then I'll dive into this and see if I can, at least at first, get it booted and running. First order of business will be to repin all of the connectors and go from there!

IMG_6490.JPGIMG_6490.JPGIMG_6492.JPGIMG_6492.JPGIMG_6491.JPGIMG_6491.JPGIMG_6482.JPGIMG_6482.JPGIMG_6484.JPGIMG_6484.JPGIMG_6486.JPGIMG_6486.JPG
1 month later
#46 4 years ago

Update: after re-pinning the connectors, putting the proper fuses in the power supply, replacing some bad transistors and rebuilding the 5V and HV areas of the SDB and some SCRs on the lamp board, my $98.75 Black Jack is up and running and fully functional! At first power on, there were several switches not working - traced that back to the switch matrix and got resolved by replacing a single J2 MPU pin that I did not crimp properly. After that, everything worked (even the coin door lights)....I was totally surprised. This thing probably hadn't run in 10 years. No bad coils, no mangled switches, and only a few lights out that got resolved either by new bulbs or new SCRs on the lamp board. Even the displays (all 5) are strong and look perfect.

Now that I've seen it work after several hours of labor and a few dollars in parts, it's time to take it apart. The playfield is out and in my basement storage area workshop to get the topside torn down for a good cleaning....there is a lot of ground-in dirt and ball swirls. There is very little in the way of paint loss/worn areas, so if it cleans up nice with a little elbow grease, I may put some $$ into fresh plastics, pop bumper caps, etc. Some inserts have cupping tho it's not as bad as the picture suggests (the shadows in the poorly lit room make it look worse). I haven't decided yet if I'm going to attempt to level them out by adding a bit of clear and then sanding down. Alternatively, a playfield protector would do the trick (I have one in my Black Knight and EBD) but I'm trying to keep the costs down as much as possible.

Pending success with the playfield, the biggest job will be the cabinet....there's a lot of weather damage on the one side, and the bottom fibreboard also needs to be replaced. And there's evidence of water damage on some of the cross-members. While contemplating repair, I'm keeping my eyes open for a donor cabinet that is in better shape than mine.
Playfield Teardown.jpgPlayfield Teardown.jpg

3 weeks later
#47 4 years ago

Finally getting around to working on my Black Jack project again. I've got the topside torn down for a good cleaning. I'm not looking to do any paint touch ups, clear coating, or anything like that - just want to get to a nice player's condition on a playfield that is already only minimally worn (but faded). I've been through Vid's playfield restoration thread but most everything in there is overkill for what I want to do for this pin. I'm hoping that with a little elbow grease + some combination of magic cleaners some of the dirty dingy-ness will disappear, particularly in the "yellow" areas near the flippers. Any recommendations on products to use to clean her up?

I didn't realize how fluorescent those playfield colors were originally until I took the rails off and saw some of the paint that hasn't seen the light of day in 40+ years. Wow.

IMG_6830.JPGIMG_6830.JPG
#48 4 years ago

Having various degrees of success trying different methods in a test spot:

- Magic Eraser
- Naphtha
- Mean Green
- Rubbing Alcohol
- Novus 2, both with a cloth and a toothbrush

I'd say it getting about 50% of the dirt out. I'm beginning to realize that this may be the best I'll get. Unless anyone else has any ideas?

#49 4 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Having various degrees of success trying different methods in a test spot:
- Magic Eraser
- Naphtha
- Mean Green
- Rubbing Alcohol
- Novus 2, both with a cloth and a toothbrush
I'd say it getting about 50% of the dirt out. I'm beginning to realize that this may be the best I'll get. Unless anyone else has any ideas?

I usually just do novus 2 and naptha. If that doens't get it out I leave it. Alcohol and magic eraser have a chance of damaging the paint

3 months later
#50 4 years ago

Just bought a Bally Black Jack EM today so I am in the club!

Now for a question:

Anyone repaint their EM cabinet with rattle cans and if so what brand and colors did you choose? Mine will need a cabinet repaint.... one day.

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