(Topic ID: 165421)

BLACK HOLE- pop bumper intermittently blowing fuse

By rcbrown316

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Insane
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 7 years ago

well it was blowing the fuse til I overfused it. lower center pop getting stuck on was the problem. still is. compared readings on all the T 03 case transistors on all the pop bumper driver boards and there are no shorts. I'm guessing there are pre-driver transistors on the driver board in the backbox so I pulled that out and just tested a whole bunch. there are no obvious shorts. unfortunately the pdf manual I have for this is useless as usual so I have no idea what drives what. i have to order the coil cuz i smoked it and had to bust it apart to get the pawl out . just looking for some advice/experience prior to ordering it. i have an aftermarket driver board but I dont want to smoke that too. i'd rather put in a few transistors etc

#7 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

What isn't the pdf showing?

it's paginated so it shows landscape oriented schematics (split in half or worse) in a portrait format. I didn't see any pre driver transistor on any of those pop boards so I assumed they were on the main driver board. Guess I was wrong lol. now if I could just identify whih of the pop boards controls the lower center pop I'd be all set it sounds like. I suppose I can go cut all the wire ties and pu the wiring out of the harness but if one of you knows that would be awesome. the lead that comes of that pop looks like it heads left with the playfield in the service position. there's two boards up on the left. again nothing jumped out with a visual inspection or metering the t03 transistors

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you still can't work out which pop bumper board is responsible from what zacaj said, then just pull the connector off each pop bumper board one at a time until you find the one that leaves the other three pop bumpers still working.

that makes perfect sense. thanks Quench!

#11 7 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Pin 1 (3 is the key, for orientation) on the pop bumper board connector is the input signal from the spoon switch on the assembly, just check the boards on the PF for one with the same wire color (it's unique for each bumper). I've never seen any other way to tell besides just checking the wire color, unless you're lucky enough to still have connector labels on them, in which case you can just cross-reference the connector numbers on pg 47 of the pdf

thanks ZACAJ. I was kinda doing that but the color stripes are pretty similar and the wires are a bit dirty. I will dig a bit deeper. How'd you like to fix my volcano for me? I could drop it off and pay you a handsome amount.

1 week later
#13 7 years ago

replaced the crispy coil and pop driver board but still dead. no more smoke though. fuse is ok. test button on new pop board has no effect either. seem to be 5 volts sitting on the coli leads just like the other pop coils.

#16 7 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

See if this helps.
"Diagnosing a Non-Working Pop Bumper.
Before doing any modification to a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB), the best approach is to get it working. Here is a list of things to check:
•First of course check the pop bumper fuse. Yes every coil driven by a PBDB will have a fuse! This fuse is mounted on the bottom side of the playfield. With the game off remove the fuse and check it with a DMM set to continuity. Make sure you are checking the correct fuse too (sometimes there are lots of coil fuses mounted under the playfield).
•Measure the voltage at the coil. With the game on and a game started, check for 25 to 40 volts DC at *both* lugs of the coil in question. If voltage is seen at just one lug, the coil is bad. Voltage at neither lug means the pop bumper fuse is dead. (Also note if the game-over relay is manually held in, power is supplied to the pop bumper.)
•Test the coil. With the game on and a game started, using an alligator jumper lead, connect one end to the ground strap in the bottom of the game. Momentarily touch the other end to the NON-BANDED diode lug of the coil in question. The coil should fire. If not there is no power to the coil, or the coil itself is bad.
•Measure 5 volts at the PBDB. With the game on and a game started, Put a DMM on pins 5 and 6 of the PBDB (reference pin 3 is the "key" pin). There should be 4.8 to 5.2 volts DC. If not, put the black lead on the bottom panel ground strap (where all the green wires go) and the red lead on the PBDB pin 5. Is there 5 volts now? If so the ground connection to the PBDB has failed. Ground comes from the CPU board connector A1J6 pin 9, so check this connector. Often if ground is missing to the PBDB, the pop bumper coil will locked-on (assuming the pop bumper coil fuse is good). The 5 volt power comes from the CPU board connector A1J6 pin 18. Check this connector too! And if you are modifying the PBDB, add the +5 volt LED mod shown below, which helps identify problems like this quickly.
•Test the coil-to-PBDB connection and power by jumping the PBDB pin 1 and pin 2. If the connection is good, the coil should fire. A spark may happen when you do this, and only jump these two pin momentarily or the coil may burn. If the coil does not fire, there is a wiring problem between the coil and the PBDB.
•Test the PBDB itself by jumping PBDB pin 4 and pin 6. This is simulating the pop bumper skirt switch closure. If the coil fires, the PBDB is fine, and there is just a switch or wiring problem. Check the pop bumper skirt switch wiring for continuity with one wire going to PBDB pin 4 (trigger), and the other to PBDB pin 6 (logic ground).
•If everything checks out so far but the pop bumper coil does not work, the PBDB itself is dead. "
This info should be attributed to Clay. This is from his guide, copied from elsewhere on the internet. if I shouldn't have posted, please let me know and I will remove.

HOLY CRAP THAT'S INSANE! that is awesome thank you so much. I will dive back in wed night thanks to you. MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!

1 week later
#17 7 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

See if this helps.
"Diagnosing a Non-Working Pop Bumper.
Before doing any modification to a Pop Bumper Driver Board (PBDB), the best approach is to get it working. Here is a list of things to check:
•First of course check the pop bumper fuse. Yes every coil driven by a PBDB will have a fuse! This fuse is mounted on the bottom side of the playfield. With the game off remove the fuse and check it with a DMM set to continuity. Make sure you are checking the correct fuse too (sometimes there are lots of coil fuses mounted under the playfield).
•Measure the voltage at the coil. With the game on and a game started, check for 25 to 40 volts DC at *both* lugs of the coil in question. If voltage is seen at just one lug, the coil is bad. Voltage at neither lug means the pop bumper fuse is dead. (Also note if the game-over relay is manually held in, power is supplied to the pop bumper.)
•Test the coil. With the game on and a game started, using an alligator jumper lead, connect one end to the ground strap in the bottom of the game. Momentarily touch the other end to the NON-BANDED diode lug of the coil in question. The coil should fire. If not there is no power to the coil, or the coil itself is bad.
•Measure 5 volts at the PBDB. With the game on and a game started, Put a DMM on pins 5 and 6 of the PBDB (reference pin 3 is the "key" pin). There should be 4.8 to 5.2 volts DC. If not, put the black lead on the bottom panel ground strap (where all the green wires go) and the red lead on the PBDB pin 5. Is there 5 volts now? If so the ground connection to the PBDB has failed. Ground comes from the CPU board connector A1J6 pin 9, so check this connector. Often if ground is missing to the PBDB, the pop bumper coil will locked-on (assuming the pop bumper coil fuse is good). The 5 volt power comes from the CPU board connector A1J6 pin 18. Check this connector too! And if you are modifying the PBDB, add the +5 volt LED mod shown below, which helps identify problems like this quickly.
•Test the coil-to-PBDB connection and power by jumping the PBDB pin 1 and pin 2. If the connection is good, the coil should fire. A spark may happen when you do this, and only jump these two pin momentarily or the coil may burn. If the coil does not fire, there is a wiring problem between the coil and the PBDB.
•Test the PBDB itself by jumping PBDB pin 4 and pin 6. This is simulating the pop bumper skirt switch closure. If the coil fires, the PBDB is fine, and there is just a switch or wiring problem. Check the pop bumper skirt switch wiring for continuity with one wire going to PBDB pin 4 (trigger), and the other to PBDB pin 6 (logic ground).
•If everything checks out so far but the pop bumper coil does not work, the PBDB itself is dead. "
This info should be attributed to Clay. This is from his guide, copied from elsewhere on the internet. if I shouldn't have posted, please let me know and I will remove.

this was awesome. I got it working thanks to you!

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