(Topic ID: 328818)

Black Hole Pop Bumper Driver Up In Smoke!

By Magickeith

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.41.29 PM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.53 PM (resized).png
Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.23 PM (resized).png
IMG_5179 (resized).JPG
IMG_5178 (resized).JPG
IMG_5180 (resized).JPG
#1 1 year ago

Hello all,

Forgive me if this has already been asked but I couldn't find anything. I have a new to me, Black Hole. It has the "all in one board" and everything appears to be running correctly minus a couple of pop bumpers. I read a post that said try swapping pop boards (which are aftermarket replacements) to see if it works with a different board. I did this and immediately got a huge puff of smoke from the board which will now not work on the original working pop bumper. The part to the left of the test button was what was smoking (first pic). My questions are as follows.

1. Do aftermarket replacement "all in one" boards need all the ground mods that are talked about with system 80? I figure that would have been corrected in the newer boards.
2. Do the aftermarket pop boards need some mod or special grounding?
3. What do I test before putting in another pop board and burning it up?
4. Can the board that are burnt be salvaged?
5. Also I have one board that has a broken capacitor or something resembling a Motrin tablet? Is that a problem? (see 3rd pic) No idea if that was the good or bad board.

Sorry for all the questions but I'm at a loss and don't want to keep burning up $20 at a shot. If you offer assistance, please be gentle. I have very little experience with testing boards. I do have soldering capabilities and solder removing capabilities. I don't know anything about testing, but I do have the meter. I will need (I hate to say this) a picture of the knob selector pointing to what I should be testing on. Sorry! NOOB! Gotta learn sometime.

Thanks in advance.

IMG_5178 (resized).JPGIMG_5178 (resized).JPGIMG_5179 (resized).JPGIMG_5179 (resized).JPGIMG_5180 (resized).JPGIMG_5180 (resized).JPG
#2 1 year ago
Quoted from Magickeith:

The part to the left of the test button was what was smoking (first pic). My questions are as follows.
1. Do aftermarket replacement "all in one" boards need all the ground mods that are talked about with system 80? I figure that would have been corrected in the newer boards.
2. Do the aftermarket pop boards need some mod or special grounding?
3. What do I test before putting in another pop board and burning it up?
4. Can the board that are burnt be salvaged?
5. Also I have one board that has a broken capacitor or something resembling a Motrin tablet? Is that a problem? (see 3rd pic) No idea if that was the good or bad board.

1) Yes- It ties together all the grounds to all the boards and the lower cabinet.
2) Generally no.
3) Check the diode on the pop bumper coil and check the ohms on the coil while the diode is off.
4) That board is easily repaired, so is the factory ones too.
5) Also easy to repair.

I'd look close at the coils and diodes, something is incorrect. Maybe a connector was flipped? When in doubt refer to the wiring diagram.

#3 1 year ago

The Z1 chip on your pictured pop-bumper circuit board is marked as a 74121 (same as the schematics). But the chip actually plugged into the Z1 socket looks like a LM239 which is completely different and wrong.

#4 1 year ago

This is exactly what I hoped for. Thanks to both of you. I will get on this ASAP.

1 week later
#5 1 year ago

So before I jump into fixing the boards I grabbed some new ones. I still have 2 pops that will not work. They show the same OHMs as the working ones with and without the diode in place. When the board is hooked up to it, the light comes on when the "test" is pushed. It also comes on when I manually activate the pop bumper switch. The pop does not ever fire though. Is this a coil issue?

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Magickeith:

... The pop does not ever fire though. Is this a coil issue?

Sounds like it. Move the board to a known working pop bumper and see if it fires. That's your answer.

#7 1 year ago

Ok, updates. The fuse was blown (I didn't realize they all had their own fuses). Fixed the fuse. Pushed the test button and the pop fired once, and the fuse blew again. I have read that the coils with diodes cannot be wired backwards. I thought that would be a good place to start. So...

1. How do you tell which way the wiring SHOULD run. I have the diagram but have no idea how to read it.
2. How do you know if the diode is bad? I have test equipment but know very little on how to do this, so please be specific.

I feel like the coil is fine because it did fire one solid shot before the fuse blew. Also, the coils in question don't have the tell tale "burnt" looking paper. Thanks in advance, I feel like this is very close to figured out!

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Magickeith:

1. How do you tell which way the wiring SHOULD run. I have the diagram but have no idea how to read it.

The diagram shows 3-digit numbers in a rectangle. This is the 3-digit color code.

Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.53 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.53 PM (resized).png

There is a wire color code chart throughout the book. Look at page 15, or the bottom of page 44.

Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.41.29 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.41.29 PM (resized).png

The diode symbol contains a straight line. The actual diode contains a band or stripe on one end that corresponds to this.

Quoted from Magickeith:

2. How do you know if the diode is bad? I have test equipment but know very little on how to do this, so please be specific.

Diodes pass current in one direction only. A basic continuity test will show continuity only in one direction.

Quoted from Magickeith:

I feel like the coil is fine because it did fire one solid shot before the fuse blew. Also, the coils in question don't have the tell tale "burnt" looking paper.

I would not make assumptions like this. Coil can "look" perfectly good and not be good.

You can have windings shorted out, which means the coil may still fire but its resistance is lower. Lower resistance means higher current, which can blow the fuse.

Take the part number from the coil and look it up on page 17. Should be A-4893 or A-1496 depending on which pop bumper. The chart will tell you the resistance of the coil in ohms. You can then measure resistance with your DMM and verify. Make sure diode is removed first. Take readings with one or both legs of the coil disconnected from the machine.

Screen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.23 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-01-18 at 1.37.23 PM (resized).png

#9 1 year ago

sparky672

Thank you for taking the time. This is exactly why I am a member here! I appreciate your support. I will get on this in the next couple days and let you know what I find. Again, thanks!

#10 1 year ago

PROGRESS!

I tested one pop and I think the diode was installed backwards. I put it all back together and it is working 100%. Sparky, your instructions were awesome!

I have one left not working and I'm going to get after that one asap. Thank you all again.

1 week later
#12 1 year ago

Ok...last pop bumper.

I have one final pop not working. I have changed the board to a brand-new board. The red LED light will light up when the button is pressed or when the pop is moved. I have changed the coil to a brand-new coil and it's the same number as the original, it has the diode as well. I soldered it in and when I put a fuse in it instantly blows. I have tried swapping wires on the coil to see if it was backwards, still blows. What am I missing awesome pinball fixer dudes?

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Magickeith:

Ok...last pop bumper.
I have one final pop not working. I have changed the board to a brand-new board. The red LED light will light up when the button is pressed or when the pop is moved. I have changed the coil to a brand-new coil and it's the same number as the original, it has the diode as well. I soldered it in and when I put a fuse in it instantly blows. I have tried swapping wires on the coil to see if it was backwards, still blows. What am I missing awesome pinball fixer dudes?

Does it pop with no coil hooked up at all?

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Does it pop with no coil hooked up at all?

I have not tried that. I thought the coil made it "pop" though? I'll give it a whirl this weekend.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Magickeith:

I have not tried that. I thought the coil made it "pop" though? I'll give it a whirl this weekend.

If the board activates and the fuse does not blow, you know the coil is the problem.

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
From: $ 3.00
Cabinet - Other
Space Coast Pinball
 
$ 1,159.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
$ 83.00
Electronics
PinballReplacementParts
 
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-pop-bumper-driver-up-in-smoke- and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.