(Topic ID: 205726)

BLACK HOLE owners I need some photos please

By APOLLO_13

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 years ago by APOLLO_13
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#1 6 years ago

Hey all, so after 5 years of searching for a play field that was in better shape than mine, I finally found one and have it back together... soldering up some of the components that I needed to remove and am looking for some pics of the stand up target wires, and the drop target bank wiring... after this much work and time, I would hate to wire these wrong... if you could take a photo of the upper play field drop target wires and the stand up target wires I would be very grateful.

Thank you in advance
Merry Christmas and hope you have a flippin great new year.

Apollo_13

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#2 6 years ago

okay got those drop and stand up targets fingered out... now I'm blowing fuses for pop bumpers f-10, 11, 12 and 13 If you might have an idea shoot it on over

#3 6 years ago

so along with the pop bumpers, right upper flipper is out, and when the switch is hit to go downstairs and the under play field lights are supposed to light... well lets just say I lost about 10 bucks in led's just now... looked at everything, lowered the amperage on the light fuses, and replaced the underside bulbs with the old incandescent, hit the switch for downstairs... blew every one of them... not sure but I think I may have a ground issue lol any ideas?

#4 6 years ago

checked diodes on all the upper pop bumpers, and the flipper that's not working, checked good... still blowing fuses when activated (pop bumpers). I'm only doing 1 fuse and 1 bulb now lol... lower play field ball return coil doesn't seem to be getting power either... roll over switches check and they are good... activate with a ball per my meter Fluke 87 v brand new ni wumpf driver and controller boards, ground mods done and the new connector between the boards is also installed. e-10, e-3, e-7, and e-4 led's are lit on the driver board... not really sure if that means anything or not, can't find any info.

#7 6 years ago

that would be awesome. I bought this thing about 5 years ago and it didn't work right, so that's when I had the bright idea of taking it apart and doing the play field touch ups while I ordered boards for it... boards came in and the play field didn't go well... so here I am 5 years later trying to get it working lol. can't really remember what did and didn't work because it's been that long... i don't think the lower play field kicker ever worked, and can't remember about the rest... so ya the entire thing would be great, since I really have no idea what the guy who had it before me might have done to it before he said screw it and sold it to me lol...

#8 6 years ago

was in the process last night of swapping lower pf bumper boards with the top boards and when I did the bumper came down and held before the fuse blew... put the board back in the bottom and the board is fine so it''s def something wired on the top side that;s messing up... also found that the flipper coil is dead because I am getting voltage to it, but no flipper...
i am going to move the upper pop bumper boards to the lower and make sure those boards are still good and then go from there.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from P2K:

Are you using the 24 volt bulbs down there?
Alan

I installed led's, not really thinking about that... hmmm, I'll have to look and see what the incandescent are rated at, because I put those in afterwards and they blew without even lighting for a second... so I will look and try that one again... thanks for that tip... when I swapped bulbs I just put them in a huge bag... so the GI, flasher, and everything else was all in one bag, I just grabbed some out of the bag, made sure they worked in the GI and slapped em in the underside play field spots. that is very likely my issue.

#12 6 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I modded my black hole to use lower voltage LEDs. Snippet taken from RGP.
“On Black Hole, when the ball goes to the lower playfield, nine bright lights turn on to illuminate the lower PF. These are special 24 volt #313 lights, which run off the solenoid voltage. The 313 bulbs are not so easy to find, so here's a way to convert them to using standard #44 bulbs that run off 6 volts. (Actually I prefer to use #55 bulbs, but 44 bulbs work fine too.) The lighting with #44 or 55 bulbs won't be quite as bright as the 24 volt #313 bulbs, but it's really close. Both Tim Arnold and Steve Charland recommend this modification.
First you need to find the "L" relay, which energizes when the ball goes to the lower playfield. The L relay is located under the lower playfield. Now remove the orange-slate-slate wire (24 volts) from the L relay switch stack, and tape it off and wire wrap it away from the relay. Then jumper a wire to it's switch lug from the 6 volt DC controlled lighting power line (black-slate-slate). The 6 volt DC line is used at all the CPU controlled lights, so it's real easy to find this power line. Lastly replace all the original #313 lamps with #44 or #55 lamps. That's all there is to it! Note we don't use the 6 volt AC general illumination line because the 44 lamps won't be bright enough. "

NICE... will def look at doing that one Thanks for the tip

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ah ya, the 6-9 bulbs around the bottom of the window are high voltage. I got a led kit from CT and they had special led bulbs for those.
Ok I’ll take some pics.

Thank you for the pics... looks good

#14 6 years ago

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole

thanks for that... think I'll rebuild the pop bumper boards and upgrade some coils as well... bumper boards may be the issue

#16 6 years ago

just found this... ordered the 5 kit of rebuild from big daddy and one of these so ill see how that works out

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#20 6 years ago

ground mods are done and I think the cap in the cabinet was done as well, was talking with Todd at big daddy and am going to get a list together before he ships the rebuild kit on Tuesday. thanks for all your input guys...
if there is anything I can do let me know, I have several machines that I can reference

#21 6 years ago

Okay, looking at both books I have, I thought I would look at the silver stapled wire that traces around the bottom of both play fields... meter from ground buss in cabinet to this silver bare wire that is stapled around the board has on dc setting... reads 7.4 vdc, and if I flip the meter to ac it reads 2+ vac on it... I assumed this was a ground? and if so that may be my issue lol should I have voltage on that wire? I wouldn't think so... and certainly not both ac and dc lol have never seen that before lol
when I was checking continuity I assumed I was reading through coil winding and transformer winding so didn't think a whole lot about it... thought I would flip to voltage and see what I read... so I guess in the swap over if that bare silver wire is touching something, this might be an issue, if in fact it carries voltage... and if it's not supposed to have voltage on it then I def have an issue lol

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#22 6 years ago

So the GI lighting, is operated by contacts on bottom left of upper play field. (blue, purple, purple)
contacts open lights go off, contacts close lights come on... but I have continuity between the bare wire that connects the bulb sockets and the bare wire that is stapled to the board...(reading through the transformer?) and I have voltage on both wires (bare metal wires) when the contacts open and the lights go out, I still have 2.XX ac voltage on what should be ground, voltage drops out when the contacts open on the (blue, purple, purple)...
Now with my meter set to dc volts I have a constant 7.9 v dc on the blue, purple, purple... and on what's supposed to be the ground... this can't be correct.
I'm thinking that the 2.XX volts ac on the "bare ground" wire is actually the ac return to the transformer, and the diff between the 7.9 v ac and the 2.XX is the resistance of all the bulbs together... am I thinking right? I'm just still wondering why I have dc voltage readings on these wires.
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#23 6 years ago

Okay with some help in another post we got the lighting voltage anomaly figured out...
found that the T coil contacts for wires yellow, slate, slate... and orange, blue, blue... were not opening... adjusted that set of contacts and now have 2 of the 4 top field pop bumpers working, may be boards on the other 2 still working on that.
with the bare ac and dc GI lighting return wires touching I may have done some damage to the upper drop targets... blowing fuse f14 on start up now.

everything on lower is working, except the ball kicker to the top field.

going to do the under play field lighting mod now, and look at some coil diodes to see if I might have an easy fix for the drop target coils.
Merry Christmas all

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