(Topic ID: 247396)

Black Hole no sound

By CanadianGamer

4 years ago


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There are 103 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Also, just confirm that the connectors for the oscilloscope are black and white (as per the manual). Black in this case connects to ground, white connects to the signal of interest.

Yes that is correct.

Quoted from Quench:

Oh, I glossed over this previous comment of yours from post #44 too quickly. If you're saying you had louder tone volume from the speaker when you hooked up the signal generator to pin 4 of U20 compared to pin 6 of U22, then that doesn't seem right.

Ok thanks, I'll check that again and get right back to you.

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you're saying you had louder tone volume from the speaker when you hooked up the signal generator to pin 4 of U20 compared to pin 6 of U22

Thanks for catching that, sorry it was my mistake. I tested pin 6 on U20, not U22.

Pin 6 on U22 is louder than pin 4 on U20.

#53 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Pin 6 on U22 is louder than pin 4 on U20.

Sorry, can you explain exactly what you've just tested? Depending what you've done this result is either good or maybe bad.

I got them reversed in my previous post. I think I've confused myself with what I asked you to do

#54 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Sorry, can you explain exactly what you've just tested? Depending what you've done this result is either good or maybe bad.
I got them reversed in my previous post. I think I've confused myself with what I asked you to do

Ok, I touched pin 4 of U20 and pin 6 of U22 with the sound generator positive lead to see which tone was louder. Pin 6 of U22 was louder than pin 4 of U20 when I touched them with the positive lead of the sound generator.

#55 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Pin 6 of U22 was louder than pin 4 of U20 when I touched them with the positive lead of the sound generator.

Ok, contrary to what I said in post #49 I'd expect pin 4 on U20 to be louder than pin 6 on U22 when you're injecting the signal generator tone, because when you're injecting it into pin 4 on U20 it should then get amplified by U22. When you inject the tone signal on the output pin 6 of U22, you're not getting that stage of amplification so pin 6 of U22 should have been quieter.

I think it's time to order two 741 op-amps and first replace U22. If it revives the sound effect volumes, then replace U21 for the speech side.
LM741 / UA741 op-amps are common and very cheap.

#56 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

I think it's time to order two 741 op-amps and first replace U22. If it revives the sound effect volumes, then replace U21 for the speech side.
LM741 / UA741 op-amps are common and very cheap.

Done! Well it will be in a moment. Thanks a bunch Quench, I'll post again as soon as I have them in. If I can't get them from Vancouver then it might take a week or so before I get them in.

#57 4 years ago

If you're in a position where it's going to take a week to get the op-amps, then just unsolder and remove U22. Turn all the volume controls up and start a game. If the sounds during game are the same quiet level as before, I think it would give more evidence to U22 being faulty (dead).

#58 4 years ago

I just ordered them from Vancouver. It's a long weekend here so they won't ship out till Tuesday but that's ok, should be overnight.

I will take U22 out and see what happens while I'm waiting for parts. Thanks.

Fingers crossed!

#59 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If you're in a position where it's going to take a week to get the op-amps, then just unsolder and remove U22. Turn all the volume controls up and start a game. If the sounds during game are the same quiet level as before, I think it would give more evidence to U22 being faulty (dead).

I removed U22 and reinstalled the sound board, and actually the sound was louder now but still no speech at all. Isn't it supposed to say something when you start a game?

Video shows how much louder it got. Still crackly but much louder sounds.

#60 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I removed U22 and reinstalled the sound board, and actually the sound was louder now

I'd say that's a good sign U22 was faulty.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

but still no speech at all. Isn't it supposed to say something when you start a game?

U22 doesn't have anything to do with speech. It's the other op-amp at U21 that's in the speech path.
The manual explains when speech (and what phrases) occurs. See below.
When the ball enters the lower playfield the speech should make an "ouuuw" sound. When the ball gets kicked back up to the main playfield it will speak one of the "Re-Entry..." phrases.
Spell the drop targets in order to get the "G-Force accelerated" speech. All other speech happens at random times.

BlackHole_Speech.jpgBlackHole_Speech.jpg

#61 4 years ago

Hopefully U21 will get some speech back. I hope it's ok to run the game for a few minutes without U22 installed... I ran it through the sound tests. Some sounds played well, some scratchy, and some not at all. I started a game and completed drop targets in order, and there was no speech. I ran the ball through the lower playfield and back but no speech.

I guess we'll know more by Wednesday/Thursday this week when the 741's are installed. If you think of any other parts I might need, let me know and I can hopefully order it from the same place to save a little shipping. Thanks!

#62 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Some sounds played well, some scratchy, and some not at all.

There's actually a couple of sound effects that are just a scratchy type noise which is normal, for example when you hit the drop targets in order (strange choice of sound effect for a good achievement).

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

If you think of any other parts I might need, let me know and I can hopefully order it from the same place to save a little shipping.

If you want, you could get some (two) replacement DACs just incase. The originals were "1408-6" which are obsolete, but "DAC0808" should be a suitable replacement. If you get them make sure they're not surface mount versions, you want DIP version.

#63 4 years ago

When I took out U22, the sounds got louder. I just put the new 741 into U22 and the sounds are again very faint like they were before removing U22... Damn. I wasn't able to get the DAC's on this order unfortunately. Is that the next direction? Or where do we go from here? Thanks.

#64 4 years ago

Got to my Black Hole in storage today. Took some crappy photos with my oscilloscope.
The U22 op-amp appears to simply be acting as a buffer - it's not really performing much amplification.
The test button on the sound board causes it to play a tone for about a second. Press it again and it plays tone again plus maybe something else? Press it a third time and it produces some speech, can't exactly remember what it said but something about "completed". Press it a 4th time and it starts from the tone again. I couldn't take a photo of the tone wave as I ran out of hands - at pin 6 of U22 it was a sawtooth waveform between 0 volts and 6 volts.

The middle leg of pot R16 produced a signal of about 1 volt peak to peak when speech was playing. Sorry, not enough hands to take a snapshot

The output of my amplifier is clearly distorting (my R15 pot needs to be adjusted to reduce the music volume going into the amp).

The last waveform was very high frequency noise - it's a positive reference voltage used by the U20 DAC. The negative reference voltage on the DAC at pin 16 measured -7 volts.

Check the DC power voltages on the U20 DAC, they're listed on the schematics.
Pin 3 should be -12 volts
Pin 2 should be ground (zero volts)
Pin 13 should be 5 volts

Then try to measure the pins as per below on your oscilloscope to see what amplitude you're getting in relation to my waveforms.

Pin 2 of U22 with background game musicPin 2 of U22 with background game music

Pin 6 of U22 with background game musicPin 6 of U22 with background game music

Amplifier output at pin 7 of connector P1 with background game musicAmplifier output at pin 7 of connector P1 with background game music

Pin 14 of U20Pin 14 of U20

#65 4 years ago

All my voltages were right, same as what you listed,

Quoted from Quench:

Pin 3 should be -12 volts (-11.86)
Pin 2 should be ground (zero volts) (check)
Pin 13 should be 5 volts (4.8)

With game started and background music playing faintly:

1st Photo pin 2 of U22
2nd photo pin 6 of U22 (line disappears when touching pin)
3rd photo pin 7 of connnector P1
4th photo pin 14 of U20 (line jumps to top of screen)

My oscilloscope is still new and I don't know if it needs calibration, I'm just not sure how to do it if it did. I've found the settings for it, but don't know how to generate a 20khz signal for it to read, nor do I know how to adjust it for calibration.

IMG_4152 (resized).JPGIMG_4152 (resized).JPGIMG_4153 (resized).JPGIMG_4153 (resized).JPGIMG_4155 (resized).JPGIMG_4155 (resized).JPGIMG_4161 (resized).JPGIMG_4161 (resized).JPG

#66 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

2nd photo pin 6 of U22 (line disappears when touching pin)

The line is probably going off the scale on this measurement. Can you change the oscilloscope from 2 to 5 volts per division and retest?

BTW when you short the probe input connectors together, where does the blue oscilloscope line go on the display? is it along the vertical centre of the grid?

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

My oscilloscope is still new and I don't know if it needs calibration, I'm just not sure how to do it if it did. I've found the settings for it, but don't know how to generate a 20khz signal for it to read, nor do I know how to adjust it for calibration.

Grab the latest version of the manual - it explains calibrating the unit.

https://github.com/SeeedDocument/DSO_Nano_v3/raw/master/res/DS201V_4.22%20User%20Manual%EF%BC%88Increase%20the%20alignment%20and%20hidden%20reference%20line%EF%BC%89.pdf

#67 4 years ago

Just a quick question first off. Where is the best place to ground the oscilloscope negative probe? I've been using the negative leg of a capacitor that seemed like the only convenient place to hook on. Does it have to be somewhere on the sound board?

Just for reference, my oscilloscope model is the DSO Nano V3, manual is here, and thanks for getting me to go back and try to figure out calibration.
http://www.seeedstudio.com/document/pdf/DSO%20Nano%20V3%20User%27s%20manual.pdf

First pic set to 5v, pin 6 of U22 with background music playing. Blue line is kind of dotted and moving along the bottom.

2nd pic is with nothing connected, voltage as shown.

3rd pic is when touching the to probes together, the line goes flat.
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When calibrating according to the manual (I figured it out that I should use the built in wave generator to generate a 20khz signal) I got this pic of a 20khz signal from wave out. It looks like a square wave?... Is that good?
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#68 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Just a quick question first off. Where is the best place to ground the oscilloscope negative probe? I've been using the negative leg of a capacitor that seemed like the only convenient place to hook on. Does it have to be somewhere on the sound board?

Preferably it's better to connect the oscilloscope ground to a ground point on the sound board. Probably the most convenient spots are either the lower leg of resistor R9 (between the R6 and R13 pots bottom right of the board), or the leg coming out of the top of capacitor C27 lower left corner of the board.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

3rd pic is when touching the to probes together, the line goes flat.

Since we're measuring voltages that are going negative, it's best to set the oscilloscope so the reference for zero volts is along the center in the grid. Go to the "Yn" function and adjust the "Y Offset" so when the probes are shorted to each other, the blue signal flat lines in the middle of the grid. This is generally the way you look at analog signals such as audio. With experience you'll get the hang of where to reference zero volts on the grid depending on the voltages you're measuring.

If you're ever analysing digital logic signals, then you can move the blue line near the bottom of the grid since digital signals are positive. I usually put it on the first step so I can see any minor negative swings.

BTW, go to "Tr" on the menu and select "Hide-Tri" to remove the dotted green line. We're not using the Trigger feature.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

When calibrating according to the manual (I figured it out that I should use the built in wave generator to generate a 20khz signal) I got this pic of a 20khz signal from wave out. It looks like a square wave?... Is that good?

Yes, this unit can only output a square wave and looks like it is logic level range (between 0V and 5V).

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

First pic set to 5v, pin 6 of U22 with background music playing. Blue line is kind of dotted and moving along the bottom.

Once you've got the blue oscilloscope line centered, redo this measurement still at 5V per division.

#69 4 years ago

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank both of you guys for such great posts in this thread... it is very educational.

#70 4 years ago
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank both of you guys for such great posts in this thread... it is very educational.

Thank-you sir! I hope that some of my stupid questions will be things that other people are wondering about as well.

Big, huge thanks to Quench for his patience and guidance!

#71 4 years ago

First pic is when not connected.

2nd pic is connected to pin 6 of U22, Game playing background music, 5v.
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#72 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

2nd pic is connected to pin 6 of U22, Game playing background music, 5v.

The output is almost distorted at full negative voltage. With the oscilloscope hooked up to pin 6 of U22 in game background music mode, adjust the amplitude at pot R13 until the blue line rises and it hopefully produces some sort of waveform.

Then set the oscilloscope to 2 volts per division. In game mode, confirm that you get activity on pins 5 through to 12 on the U20 DAC. You should see activity between zero and 5 volts.

We haven't even looked at the speech side of things yet. In Game Over (attract) mode do you see any activity on the oscilloscope at pin 15 of the U14 speech chip when you press the test button on the sound board? Speech is produced every 3rd press of the button (wait a second between presses). If you're looking at the schematics, that pin should show activity between zero and say 11 volts because it's driven by transistor Q2 so set the oscilloscope to 5 volts per division.
How about the output of the speech chip (pin 20 of U14), any activity there?
What about output pin 4 of the U19 DAC used for speech?
And the output pin 6 of the U21 op-amp?

In the mean time have a quick look on ebay for sources of the DAC chips. Look for MC1408 and DAC0808. We might get to the point that they're next in line for replacement so find out what options you have.

#73 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The output is almost distorted at full negative voltage. With the oscilloscope hooked up to pin 6 of U22 in game background music mode, adjust the amplitude at pot R13 until the blue line rises and it hopefully produces some sort of waveform.

I tried adjusting it both ways but the blue line stayed the same, no wave. The sound still gets a bit louder as I adjust it outwards, to a point, then it starts to sound like it will fry if I go any further.

Quoted from Quench:

Then set the oscilloscope to 2 volts per division. In game mode, confirm that you get activity on pins 5 through to 12 on the U20 DAC. You should see activity between zero and 5 volts.

The picture below shows what pins 5-12 on U20 looked like, pretty much the same on all of them.

Quoted from Quench:

In Game Over (attract) mode do you see any activity on the oscilloscope at pin 15 of the U14 speech chip when you press the test button on the sound board?

scope set to 5v, and there was no change when pressing the test button in attract mode the 3rd time or any time.

Quoted from Quench:

How about the output of the speech chip (pin 20 of U14), any activity there?

No activity there. tried pressing the test button 3 times, waiting between presses.

Quoted from Quench:

What about output pin 4 of the U19 DAC used for speech?

No, nothing.

Quoted from Quench:

And the output pin 6 of the U21 op-amp?

No change when pressing the test button 3 times.

I've found a place to order the DAC's, but I'm going to hold off until I hear back from you. Thanks.
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pins 5 to 12 on the U20 DAC

#74 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I tried adjusting it both ways but the blue line stayed the same, no wave.

When adjusting pot R13 did the blue line at least move upwards while probing pin 6 of U22 ? I guess you're not seeing a wave because it's too small in amplitude to see when we've got the oscilloscope at 5 volts per division. I think you were getting waves on this pin when your oscilloscope was set low at 10 millivolts per division on the previous page.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

The picture below shows what pins 5-12 on U20 looked like, pretty much the same on all of them.

Well on the surface it indicates that DAC is not losing amplitude resolution due to a lack of digital info. The digital info is all active.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

4th photo pin 14 of U20 (line jumps to top of screen)

You mentioned this in your post directly after I posted my graphs. On my graph, pin 14 of U20 is around zero volts, yet your wave has it sitting at 12 volts.
I'm looking at the DAC datasheet and it talks about pin 14 having 2ma of current. The schematics show pin 14 connected to +12volts via resistor R11 which is 5.6k ohms in value.
Using Ohms law, (voltage = current * resistance) 2ma times 5.6k ohms (0.002 * 5600) = 12 volts. With one side of the resistor being connected to 12 volts, the ohms law calculation says the other side of the resistor which is connected to pin 14 of U20 should be zero volts (which is what I got). Yet you are getting 12 volts there indicating there is no current flowing through R11 from U20. Hmm... is this evidence U20 is faulty? I wish I had access to my game for further checks.

With your oscilloscope on 5 volts per division, can you redo a waveform of pin 14 of U20 plus also pin 15 of U20. Also waveforms of the same pins (14 and 15) of the DAC used in the speech path at U19. These two pins are positive and negative voltage references for the DAC.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I've found a place to order the DAC's, but I'm going to hold off until I hear back from you. Thanks.

Are they cheap?

How are you going here, are you getting frustrated this isn't resolved yet?

#75 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Are they cheap?

How are you going here, are you getting frustrated this isn't resolved yet?

I'm doing great thanks, you've been very helpful and I really appreciate it. It will get resolved one day, somehow, and I'd really like to keep the original sound board going... it seems like whatever it is it must be a minor issue, just trying to track it down is the hard part! The DACs are only about $2.50 each, but shipping is $20 of course lol.

Quoted from Quench:

When adjusting pot R13 did the blue line at least move upwards while probing pin 6 of U22 ?

No, I adjusted R13 up and down with the scope connected and the line did not move.

With game playing and background music on,

pic 1 is the scope set to middle, 5v, and nothing connected.
pic 2: pin 14 of U20
pic 3: pin 15 of U20
pic 4: pin 14 of U19
pic 5: pin 15 of U19

Pin 15 of U20 seemed to move up a volt or so, whereas pin 15 of U19 didn't move at all.
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#76 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

pic 2: pin 14 of U20
pic 3: pin 15 of U20
pic 4: pin 14 of U19
pic 5: pin 15 of U19

Is anyone here watching that has a Black Hole who can take some DC voltage measurements with their multi-meter of these ^^^ four pins on their sound board?

Both your pin 14 DAC measurements are at 12 volts DC which disagrees with my U20 pin 14 DAC measurement and what's stated in the DAC datasheet. Is it possible there's been some high voltage spike (possibly the 30 volt rail??) on the 12 volt rail to the sound board that's killed the DACs?
The speech chip at U14 also has the 12 volt rail connected to it though it's dropped to 9 volts via a 3 volt zener diode marked as CR2 on the schematics. Datasheet for the speech chip says maximum supply voltage is 20 volts. These speech chips are virtually unobtainable so the worry is if there was a 12 volt power surge, is it also damaged.

The LM741 op-amps at U21 and U22 are also connected to the +/- 12 volt rails. Your original UA741C op-amps were rated to +/- 18 volts DC max. Since you've changed the op-amps and it's made no difference, it's possible the originals were ok.
Having said that on my first two waveforms, the difference in voltage peak to peak between the input and output of U22 shows a very modest gain of about 1.2
You posted a picture above of U22 input pin 2 having about 1 volt DC, meanwhile your pin 6 output was off the scale at negative 12 volts. That is substantial gain and with the R13 pot turned all the way in one direction, the gain should have dropped to about 1.

I wonder if your R13 pot is bad. With the machine off, set your multi-meter to resistance mode. What resistance do you measure across pins 2 and 6 of U22? This is where the R13 pot is connected across. The schematic says it's 10k ohms so you should read this or less depending where the pot swipe is adjusted to. Do the same across pins 2 and 6 of the op-amp at U21. Again it should be 10k ohms or less because of pot R6.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

The DACs are only about $2.50 each, but shipping is $20 of course lol.

The DAC0808 version is still available at Mouser, Digikey and Jameco. Is shipping any cheaper from these suppliers for you? There's always getting them through China via Ebay/AliExpress for peanuts so long as you're prepared to wait a month or so for delivery.

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Is it possible there's been some high voltage spike (possibly the 30 volt rail??)

That is entirely possible, the game was in really bad shape when I got it. I replaced the small transformer, all the bridge rectifiers, put in a fuse for the small transformer, new caps, new mpu/power supply/driver board combo... and on and on. The wiring was a mess but I straightened it all out and it looks good. It also plays great now, no issues at all with game play. I just finished cleaning it all up with new rubbers, worked out all the solenoids and switch issues etc, and it looks amazingly better than it did. It needs new plastics for sure, but these are livable and don't hinder gameplay. I also made a new wireform for the roll under on the lower playfield to advance the multiplier. It was missing and that just wouldn't do! I used a small welding rod of some sort (can't remember exactly what size but need to get more from the welding suppliers). I got a piece of it a while back and have made a few since then, it works great! They didn't even charge me for it because it's nothing to them lol. I had no idea what the original wireform looked like, but I figured out how it had to be. Pictures attached as well.

Things left to do on it are #1 sound of course.
2. back glass spinner motor. I've read all the threads on it and will probably get to it one day... it's not really #2 on the list lol.
3. Auxiliary lamp driver board needs a new chip, one visibly fried but can get it from Vancouver cheap. Will add it to DAC order.
4. Small credit display also has a visibly fried chip and doesn't work. I tried putting a spare display in that I had laying around, and it worked but after a while it blows the fuse for all the displays on the new mpu. Those fuses are hard to find and I ended up getting a couple from Pascal Janin directly from France. Oddly enough, I get shipments from him in just a few days. Anyhow, I'm fairly certain that the credit display is to blame for blowing the fuse, even though it seems to work fine for a while. I haven't blown a fuse yet when I keep it unplugged.

I'll post some pics of the clean up work, and how it looks now, as well as a few overall pics of the sound board. There isn't much to see as on the surface it all looks pristine, but maybe something will catch your eye. I put new capacitors on, that's about it.

Quoted from Quench:

The LM741 op-amps at U21 and U22 are also connected to the +/- 12 volt rails. Your original UA741C op-amps were rated to +/- 18 volts DC max. Since you've changed the op-amps and it's made no difference, it's possible the originals were ok.

I actually only changed U22, not U21 although I do have a new LM741 for U21. I didn't want to change it if I didn't have to, just more chance of harming the board. If you think I should change it just let me know and I'll swap it in.

Quoted from Quench:

I wonder if your R13 pot is bad. With the machine off, set your multi-meter to resistance mode. What resistance do you measure across pins 2 and 6 of U22? This is where the R13 pot is connected across. The schematic says it's 10k ohms so you should read this or less depending where the pot swipe is adjusted to. Do the same across pins 2 and 6 of the op-amp at U21

It seems to be working. I get 1.67k ohms at pins 2+6 U22, and 3.27k ohms on U21. I have R13 backed out to get the sound louder, which is why it's lower ohms of course. I tried adjusting R13 in and the resistance went up accordingly.

Quoted from Quench:

The DAC0808 version is still available at Mouser, Digikey and Jameco. Is shipping any cheaper from these suppliers for you?

No, it would be the same or more actually. I don't mind paying $20 shipping for a $2 part really, but only if there is some chance it will help. I guess I will order them anyhow so we can at least cross them off the list. You said if they're damaged then U14 is damaged as well. Would that just mean there would be no speech? Or would all sound be affected?
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#78 4 years ago

and DACs are ordered. Should see them by Wednesday next week.

#79 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I also made a new wireform for the roll under on the lower playfield to advance the multiplier.

Nice work. My guess is that the section where the spring sits would have had a bend going up at the inner side to prevent the spring from sliding down into the centre of the wireform (if that makes sense).

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I actually only changed U22, not U21 although I do have a new LM741 for U21. I didn't want to change it if I didn't have to, just more chance of harming the board. If you think I should change it just let me know and I'll swap it in.

Nah, leave the original U21 in for now.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I don't mind paying $20 shipping for a $2 part really, but only if there is some chance it will help. I guess I will order them anyhow so we can at least cross them off the list. You said if they're damaged then U14 is damaged as well. Would that just mean there would be no speech? Or would all sound be affected?

If there was a voltage surge on the +12V rail and damaged the DACs, it doesn't necessarily mean that U14 died too. The max rated supply voltage of U14 is over double what it's powered at in the game. I was just mentioning that it was a possibility and if so you could have a hard time finding a replacement. U14 is a speech chip, it doesn't affect other sounds.

Not sure what all the mods are on the back of the sound board but they kind of look like they were done at the factory.

#80 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Not sure what all the mods are on the back of the sound board but they kind of look like they were done at the factory.

Yeah, I’m 99% sure it’s factory, I’ve seen others like it and read that they did this on earlier models.

#81 4 years ago

Parts showed up but now I’m away for a week. Will be back on the 30th to continue working on sound. Cheers.

1 week later
#82 4 years ago

I put the new DAC's in and I have sound!

I still don't have speech so I'm going to replace the U21 op amp that I bought and hadn't put in yet. I'm not sure if it'll do anything but it's worth a try.

I also noticed that the background "music" quits when I go to the lower playfield, and starts again when I get back to the top playfield. All the targets etc in the lower playfield still make their proper sounds, just no background music.

#83 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I put the new DAC's in and I have sound!

Finally some progress!

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I also noticed that the background "music" quits when I go to the lower playfield, and starts again when I get back to the top playfield.

The background sound changes when you go to the lower playfield; from memory it makes a changing wind type noise (kinda like you're floating in space effect?). The background music returns when the ball re-enters the upper playfield.

#84 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The background sound changes when you go to the lower playfield; from memory it makes a changing wind type noise (kinda like you're floating in space effect?). The background music returns when the ball re-enters the upper playfield.

Thanks Quench, not sure why I'm not getting that.

I replaced U21 but still no speech, so I suppose there's a good chance the speech chip is shot?

#85 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

so I suppose there's a good chance the speech chip is shot?

Have you first tried re-adjusting the R6 and also the R16 pots for the speech?

If you keep pressing the test button on the sound board does it ever produce speech?

If I remember right, when you tilt the ball in play the game repeats saying the word "Tilt" about 5 times and lowers the pitch each time.

I'm attaching the sound/speech board schematic below for reference.

Before presuming the speech chip is suspect, we need to see if it's getting activity on all the input pins (pins 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 3, 2, 7, 8, 15, 16) when it should be talking. Set the blue line offset to the first grid line above the bottom of the screen and the voltage to 2 volts/division.
Probe all these input pins with the oscilloscope when repeatedly pressing the test button on the sound board.

Sound.pngSound.png

#86 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Have you first tried re-adjusting the R6 and also the R16 pots for the speech?

If you keep pressing the test button on the sound board does it ever produce speech?

I meant to mention, I did try hitting the test button and no speech is produced, only a loud beep no matter how many times it's pressed. I just tried adjusting R6 and R16 but no change.

I'll hook up the scope later today and see what readings I get. Thanks.

#87 4 years ago

Sorry it took so long... I've been a little under the weather.

I probed all those legs and really got no response. Legs 2 & 3 gave a very brief square wave once in a while but it took quite a few presses of the test button to get it to happen. The wave only popped up for a split second.

Legs 9-15 gave a constant wave that only very briefly paused every 8 or 10 presses of the button.

If you have the volume up you can hear the beeping from the test button. I had the volume low so as not to wake anyone up in the house.

#88 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I've been a little under the weather.

Hope you're feeling better..

Try this. Press and *hold* the test button on the sound board. This should repeatedly cycle through the sound tests which will beep, beep then speak and repeat every 2 seconds. I can't work out what it's saying from the emulator I'm running but after the two beeps you should get some activity at the voice chip. Redo the checks in my previous post.
A couple more pins of interest to check are:
pin 22 of the U14 speech chip which is the audio output pin
pin 14 of the U19 DAC
pin 6 of the U21 op-amp - what you see here should be similar in frequency to pin 15,16 of the voice chip.

#89 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Redo the checks in my previous post.
A couple more pins of interest to check are:
pin 22 of the U14 speech chip which is the audio output pin
pin 14 of the U19 DAC
pin 6 of the U21 op-amp - what you see here should be similar in frequency to pin 15,16 of the voice chip.

There was no change when testing the above pins by holding the test button down. Pins 15 and 16 of U14 did make the line go higher, by 8 volts, (4 lines), but no activity.
Pin 6 of U21 looked the same but it only went 2 volts higher (1 line) @ 2volts division and 20uS if I'm getting that right. Still no activity with test button.
Pin 22 of U14 had minor constant activity but didn't change with the test button being pressed.
Pin 14 of U19 had no activity.

#90 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

There was no change when testing the above pins by holding the test button down.

When holding the sound test button pressed, did you notice the two beeps then silence (when it should have been speaking), then two beeps then silence and repeat?

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Pins 15 and 16 of U14 did make the line go higher, by 8 volts, (4 lines), but no activity.

So you're only getting a DC voltage? I expect this should be pulsing when the speech chip is told to talk.

Probe pins 5 through to 12 at U19 to see what activity the DAC is getting from the CPU.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Pin 14 of U19 had no activity.

Sorry I meant pin 4, not 14.

#91 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

When holding the sound test button pressed, did you notice the two beeps then silence (when it should have been speaking), then two beeps then silence and repeat?

No, I don’t think so, but I’m attaching a video to show what I hear.

Quoted from Quench:

Probe pins 5 through to 12 at U19 to see what activity the DAC is getting from the CPU

The line moves up a couple bars, (4volts?) but there is no wave happening when I hold the test button.

Quoted from Quench:

Sorry I meant pin 4, not 14

Nothing happening here either.

#92 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

No, I don’t think so, but I’m attaching a video to show what I hear.

Interesting, well you're only getting the two beeps and there's no time break when it should be playing speech. From experience that tells me the board might think there's no speech chip or thinks it's disabled so doesn't perform any test for it.

BTW, the manual says the sound test button should only be used in game over (attract) mode.

I just noticed the manual has more details about the sound/speech board test procedure - see the flowchart diagram below.
Actually near the end of the flow chart it has the tone repeating when dip switch 1 is ON. Can you do me a favor and flick all those 8 dip switches on the sound board to the opposite position and re-power the game to see what happens? Your 8-way dip switch block doesn't clearly indicate what's on and off. I'm almost wondering if all those dip switches are set opposite to what's wanted..

I was at my Black Hole very briefly today. Holding the sound test button plays two beeps then the speech chip says "complete" and repeats the beeps/speech.
I had a logic probe with me and probed the inputs to the U19 DAC and got the following during speech.
Pin 5 stays low
Pin 6 is high with a brief pulse during speech
Pin 7 stays high
Pin 8 stays high
Pin 9 is high with a brief pulse during speech
Pin 10 is high with a brief pulse during speech
Pin 11 is high with a brief pulse during speech
Pin 12 is high but goes low during speech

What happens at pin 8 of the U14 speech chip? It's the only pin that provides feedback to the CPU. According to the speech chip datasheet, when the speech chip receives a command from the CPU, pin 8 should go low telling the CPU it's received it. When the speech chip is finished with the command pin 8 should go high telling the CPU it's ready to receive the next command.

Probe pin 8 during the speech test. I suspect it won't be doing anything.
Next, probe pin 8 as you power on the machine and take special notice of what it does. You'll probably have to do it a few times to get an idea of what it's doing. The problem here is that the CPU might try to test the speech chip very soon after the game is powered and so it will be difficult to get an accurate idea. You might have to get the oscilloscope to record the pin 8 waveform at power on so you can go back and look at it.

For reference, this is the only online source I've found for the speech chip - not cheap...
ebay.com link: SC01A SemiConductor CASE DIP22 MAKE Generic

BlackHole_SoundTest.pngBlackHole_SoundTest.png

#93 4 years ago

I changed all the dips to opposite sides and no difference.

I probed u19 and got the same results as you. If you listen to the sound of the two beeps on the video, there’s actually 3 beeps but the 3rd is very close to the 2nd. My probe pulses when the 3rd beep is heard. Listen to the video again and you will hear it.

Nothing happens when I probe pin 8, it just stays high. I tried it with sound test in attract mode, and when powering game on.

I guess I’ll bite the bullet and get the speech chip!

#94 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I changed all the dips to opposite sides and no difference.

Can you do a continuity test across dip switch 1? Does the meter show it changing when you flick that switch? Make sure to leave it off.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Nothing happens when I probe pin 8, it just stays high. I tried it with sound test in attract mode, and when powering game on.

Ok, follow the test procedure in the flow chart from start to end. What happens?

Please probe pin 7 of the U14 speech chip when it should be speaking. You should see it pulsing telling the speech chip there's data for it to receive.

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I guess I’ll bite the bullet and get the speech chip!

Hold off. For one thing you might be able to find a cheaper source locally/in the US with guys who can repair these boards. You might even be able to buy a working board for that price??

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

Nothing happens when I probe pin 8, it just stays high. I tried it with sound test in attract mode, and when powering game on.

The behavior I mentioned is what I expect based on the datasheet. I won't be near my game for some weeks so can't confirm if what you're seeing is right.

#95 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Ok, follow the test procedure in the flow chart from start to end. What happens?
Please probe pin 7 of the U14 speech chip when it should be speaking. You should see it pulsing telling the speech chip there's data for it to receive.

I followed the chart but all I get is beeping, not sure if I’m missing something there. I tested the dip switches in on and off positions and they’re good.
When probing pin 7 of u14 it does pulse at that 3rd beep.

#96 4 years ago

Sorry for the delay, my turn to be under the weather..

Quoted from CanadianGamer:

When probing pin 7 of u14 it does pulse at that 3rd beep.

That's what it should be doing.

Question is why is the board playing a tone instead of speech (silence if the speech chip is faulty) during the sound test.
Presuming you socketed the new DACs and Op-Amps, I would swap them around and see what happens just incase one on the speech side is suspect.

Might be time to check the pinball/arcade board repair guys in the US to see if any have that speech chip. It's a Votrax "SC-01-A" speech phenome chip.
Maybe even Pinball Resource have them being the Gottlieb guys.
This speech chip was also used on some old arcade video games such as Q*Bert.

#97 4 years ago

BTW I hope you're feeling better!

I hate to say it but I didn't socket them. I know I'll get "boos" for that but I didn't think I'd ever be taking them out again. I'm sure they're good... they were from a good supplier.

I just ordered a new speech chip from gameroomrepair.com which was $78.95 + 9.50 shipping to Canada. For me after exchange it's $130 Cdn. Fingers crossed! Thanks for everything you've helped with... stay tuned!

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianGamer:

I just ordered a new speech chip from gameroomrepair.com

Great find!
Lets hope the Black Hole finds its voice again!

1 week later
#99 4 years ago

Well I put the speech chip in, but didn't get any speech with the test button, just a weird background sound, like feedback. Tried a quick game to see what happened when it hit the lower playfield. The game sounds were fine but when it hit the lower playfield they went silent except for the feedback noise, even when it went back to the top playfield.

I remembered turning out the pot on R13 and the other one for the speech (can't remember it's number). So I cranked them both back in to where I think they started at (it's been a while), and I got speech... It's very slow speech and really creepy, but it's speech, and the sound effects didn't quit when it hit the lower playfield. That was a quick test and I only had one quick game, but if we can dial in the speed of his voice I think we may be done here!

I hope there's an easy answer to that like adjusting the resistor some more? I will play with that later if I have time. Cheers!

#100 4 years ago

I adjusted the pot on R6, just turned it in some more and the voice is now sounding normal! I believe our work here is done and I can't thank you enough Quench! All the sounds and speech seem to be working perfectly throughout the game, and that is cause for a celebration! G-Force activated!
Very happy today, it's a good day.

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