Sometime last week; I finished creating some Black Hole-inspired Flipper button's for my Brother's Black Hole... What do you guys think?
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Sometime last week; I finished creating some Black Hole-inspired Flipper button's for my Brother's Black Hole... What do you guys think?
Quoted from RCA1:Really cool, but the Black Hole decal might be too subtle to show up. How is it in person?
There def is some tiny detail there. I'm wondering if it makes more sense to zoom in on some of the center detail somehow. Let me play in Corel a little bit.
Quoted from northvibe:If we can get blue....heck freaking yes that looks awesome!
There is some talk about having the back PCBs made in White LEDs... then they would be compatible with all button colors. I'll let you know if that materializes.
Quoted from CNKay:I just recently saw bally translucent buttons not sure if the same as Gottlieb but a bunch of colors.
They are compatible with all buttons of this style. TBH; The buttons I make are actually more compatible with Gottlieb than anything else; because they have the longer pole.
Sorry - but that game was/is crap.
It was at TPF my first year... it ran about 3hrs total and was down the rest of the show.
Even then; it won the category for best pinball. What a rip off.
Quoted from Daniml:I believe Zitt was referring to that resto-modded BH, not BH in general.
Exactly.
I owned a BH for a short period of time during it's restore. It's now happily running at my brothers house (xmas gift).
Quoted from blownfuse:Sometimes, if the upkicker coil frys, loss of the 5VDC at the driver board is the cause. A failed connection can cause some of the playfield coils to slowly turn on in attract mode.
Would a 100k pulldown resistor between B & E of the transistor coil help prevent this?
Yeah... my brother's machine always hits the glass... didn't try adjusting the switch. Something to try and remember next time I'm there.
Whatever you do... try to pull the backglasses. that will lighten the load... and protect those valuable pieces from becoming a mess if jarred unexpectedly. Also either removed the bottom PF... or secure it with a screw before you move it.
Yeah; the wasn't a lot of interest in this mod to justify a full run of White LED parts.
However, if I can get a enough people interested - I might get some made.
To be cost effective; we need to do 50 in neutral white leds - that would be 25 "sets" of 2 for a normal machine.
Haunted house should be covered already with the Green buttons and Green LEDs.
PopBumpers are not CPU controlled.
There is a small "one shot" board which fires the coil independent of the CPU.
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=4
If you have know good PBDB board... it may just be the nature of the oneshot circuitry.
Did you replace the mylar? or are you planning on clear coating?
I'd be concerned with the paint in this area if you aren't doing either.
I removed the Mylar and clear coated in my Worklog:
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?s=2f47687b63907db92dbd73b38ea1795b&p=1327848&postcount=7
Quoted from Mudflaps:I just bought some of your buttons, too. Green for the start and blue for the flippers. Next project is lighting those up.
I was wondering what was up with that weird order..
Too bad I don't have any more of the White Flipper Button mods available.... that's what I used on my machine. Actually, now that I think about it; I used red with red buttons to match what was Gottlieb stock.
Guys, you don't need to go looking for these buttons... I've had gottlieb compatible buttons and housing for years:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/button-patentcopyright-owner
Vid did a review (and how-to) of them here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-bally-stern-clear-buttons-vids-review
A direct link to my product page is here:
http://pinball-mods.com/url/pm_btns
Quoted from cmack750:does anyone understand WHY someone would have done this?
Is it a new gobble hole to make sure it the lower playfield got some love and action?
That said... if the game was working properly; they'd be playing a dead stick with no light.
Weird.
I don't recall there being a free play option.
Not even sure there is a free play rom patch.
Maybe someone knows more
The act of unplugging the connector on the game may have been the cause.
Those edge finger "wipers" in the original connectors are fragile.
Its typically recommended the connector be rebuilt given age.
Sadly; you haven't really given enough information for anyone to debug. Random resets don't really explain a problem well.
It's possible the "Bad" machine damage a chip on the board... but I'm more inclined to suspect the connections rather than the board at this point.
Quoted from iBuyHouses:So I'm pretty sure that they other game needs the connectors rebuilt. What parts/suppliers do you guys recommend?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Replacing_.28Repinning.29_System_80_Connectors
I don't recall where I got mine specifically. I probably got mine from Digikey...before they went Obsolete.Check section 5.3.1... there's a link to GPE which might still work.
Nope: They are becoming unobtainium. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-molex-08-03-0304-crimp-contact-0156#post-4288894 has some saga The link to equipment99 seems to still have stock; but note they were blocked from Pinside for some reason. Proably because they spammed the forum.
Use a pink eraser on the edge fingers. Replace worn non springy edge fingers. Really the only option.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:I was considering black gloss powder coat or a chrome plating job if it won't come clean with evaporust and polishing.
My experience is if it isn't good enough for display without powder; it won't look good with powder. Chrome is even worse.
Scratches and dents will show up almost as good. The only difference is if you use a textured powder like wrinkle.
If you have pitting from rust; it'll likely show up in the black gloss.
That said; there's no harm in trying - esp if you're DIYing the powder (hard to do with rails).
I don't have a Black hole anymore (gift to my brother) and honestly; too lazy to open a set of schematics from Ipdb.org.
It sounds your assement of the damage may be close if not spot on.
Make a table of each connector pin outs and show how they were connected. feel free to put it in a spreadsheet and post a clear Picture here.
I would look for any over voltage connections or any reverse/negative connections. IE a -12V power going into a +12V rail or positive voltage going into a negative rail.
For many of the chips; it should be easy to find a cheap replacement. Heck; if you were really "sporting" go buy one of those cheap ebay IC testers.
ebay.com link: sch
That SC01 tho… is going to be a b. With luck maybe there are some still around.
Quoted from TronGuy:Is the ball baron Ninja chrome Pinball a good choice ?
Proably. No mags in Black hole.
That said; I find it very hard / impossible to determine if a ball is chrome or standard carbon.
If you ever have both mag and magenetless games; its best note have both in your possession - as it way to easy to mix them into the wrong machine.
Quoted from topkat:I dont know, maybe? it so strange when I watch the skirt, as i activate it on the pf, even with no spoon there it has allot of movement in 270 degrees of activating, but the upper side facing the lanes when I push on it the tip doesnt move as much at all .
Well; if you decide to give it a shot; I now sell translucent pointed skirts. Having said that; I'm not sure point skirts would help ... but there has to be a reason someone created it.
Was visiting my Brother over New years. Several years ago; I restored a black hole and gave it to him for Christmas.
We were playing it for most of the day and then decided to work on some issues it was having. Mostly mechanical due to the window. :S
Anyway; at some point - the game started refusing to boot properly and then refusing to credit up for a game. I broke out the oscilloscope and did some quick troubleshooting. The game is getting a good clock and fetching ROM code.
We think we isolated the problem to a coindoor harness. The symptom was that the game would boot if we left the coin door open about 10%. it would boot into attract mode with zero credits. If we opened the coindoor enough to credit the game; the system would lock up.
We both think that one or more of the wires - maybe surrounding Slam Switch being open.
A few times we had a credit the game would play the "tilt sound effect" as soon as the game was started.
Anyone seen this before? any other suggestions?
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