Woodridge, IL
Quoted from PinZig:If anyone knows where I can find one, lmk, thanks!
Is this what you are looking for?
Black Hole Infinity Glass in MA
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/HN97cQYl6wk
(Topic ID: 77057)
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Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
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2 years later
Help! I just finished bringing my Black Hole back from the dead, but I’m left with one nagging issue.
The game powers up into attract mode with no problem, but when I press the button to start a game it just restarts and goes back into attract mode. The reset happens right after resetting the 4-target (HOLE) bank and before resetting the 5-target (BLACK) bank. If I leave the game “warm-up” for 3-5 minutes it works fine.
I can also get it to work if I disconnect the ground wire to Solenoid 2 (the 5-target bank) at A3J4-10, or if I disconnect the sound/speech board.
All the self-tests run fine. I have re-pinned every board edge connector and the molex plug connecting the 5-target bank. I have replaced all the electrolytic caps on all the boards. Thinking I must have a flaky chip somewhere in the Solenoid 2 circuitry I started working my way back and ended up replacing every transistor and IC in the circuit back to and including the RIOT chip at U6. I also replaced the diodes on all four drop-target coils for good measure. I don’t have another sound/speech board to swap out to see if it’s the culprit.
The CPU did have some battery damage which I was able to repair with minimal component replacement and without losing any traces. Ground mods were also done.
Does anyone here have any ideas? I’ve searched Pinside and the rest of the web, but I can’t find any discussion of this issue. Thanks in advance.
(I have also cross-posted this on the SYS80 thread)
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Did you also replace the filter capacitors in the bottom of the cabinet?
Thanks. I should have mentioned that.
I did replace the orange filter cap with the recommended 10,000uf 25v replacement. I also rebuilt the power supply using the recommenced modifications in Clay's guide (except I did not replace the trim pot or the regulator chip). J1, J2, and J3 were all upgraded to square pins and Trifurcon connectors.
Quoted from frenchmarky:So even when game is stone-ass cold, powering up and immediately running the solenoid test doesn't do anything goofy when the target bank(s) fire?
When you turn it on cold does the 'coin up' sound work, and the 'start' sound works when you start a game (before it resets to attract mode)?
Yep. Stone-ass cold the solenoid test completes as expected. Wait the 60 seconds for the game to recycle into attract mode and insert a coin, and the 'coin up' sound works. Press the start button, and the 'start' sound works....and then the game resets right before firing solenoid 2.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:What you really need is a second System 80
If only they weren't such a beast to get downstairs! 
Seriously, I think the sound/speech board has to be involved somehow because when I disconnect it the game starts up fine, stone cold. I just can't figure out the connection with the solenoid ground for solenoid 2. As far as I can see the only components common to both are U6 and Z27 on the CPU board, and I have replaced both of those.
Quoted from frenchmarky:Are your power supply board voltages all excellent?
Maybe one of the two lower playfield banks are involved? Each fires at what looks to be in perfect unison with one of the two banks on top when game is started. Diagonally... 5 bank resets at same time as 3 bank below, and the 4 above with the four below. Perhaps whatever it is is only showing up with the power draw from two banks firing simultaneously which happens at game start but not in the solenoid test. And doesn't show up when you disconnect the 5 bank first because of the reduced draw during game start reset(?) Maybe the 3 bank or its circuit has an issue. And maybe the speech board disconnected is reducing the power drain just enough to let the cold game start 'get away with it' for those first 5 minutes. I mean the whole thing seems to be just on the borderline till it warms up a little bit. I dunno, I'm just throwing something out to see if it sticks.
Thank you Mad_Dog and frenchmarky. I appreciate the input.
Ok, if I disconnect either the 5-bank or the 3-bank or the sound card everything starts up fine. With all three connected I can't start up until something somewhere warms up. Which I guess points back to my "rebuilt" power supply not being able to handle the draw when cold. I didn't replace the regulator chip. If I freeze this chip after the game warms up I can re-introduce the problem. So I'm going to order a new chip and I'll let you know how it goes.
2 months later
Quoted from frenchmarky:Question about missing pull-up resistors: Pinwiki details how early BH's lower playfields may not have pull-up resistors on the three transistors down there, so I added those. BUT in the old 'Pinball Lizard' BH/HH documentation it states that my game's serial number "would require the resistor additions" and they were talking about all five transistors, no distinction between upper or lower depending on when the game was built. And the two upper pf transistors on mine have NO resistors nor an extra wire connected to them.
Can anybody verify that I indeed need to add resistors to these upper two? I'm assuming I just run the two wires to the common +24V point at fuses F14/15/16, similar to how the lower pf ones are done?
Thanks!
Clay's repair guide also recommends adding the pull-up resistor to all five playfield mounted transistors on Black Hole (if not already present). I pulled the 24V from the fuse block on both playfields.
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