Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider onion.
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I'm in the club! Picked up my Black Hole yesterday. Having an issue with the machine kicking all the balls out into the plunger after draining the first ball. After this it tilts out. I'm not much up on pinball machine repair. Can anyone offer a suggestion on where to start with this issue?
Quoted from blownfuse:Start by checking all your tilt switches to be sure they're operating correctly, also check the ball through switch to be sure it opens. Also, since the game is booting to attract mode, I'd suggest going into the switch test and see if you can find anything out of place. Look for switches closed and then check them to be sure the CPU and the switch are both the same. If you have all drop targets in their up position and all balls removed from the game, you should see a "99" in the credit window. Then you can test the switches to be sure the CPU "sees" them when they close. Check for switches that the CPU assigns a wrong number to them too, this can lock up your CPU and mean you have a IC short in your switch matrix.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure.
Okay. Well I tried the easy parts first. Took all the balls out - targets are up. Turned on machine. Boots to attract mode. No number 99. Where does that put me? Thank you SO much for the reply! Hope to have this baby running ASAP!
Ok. One more thing. When I reboot it comes up with the number 24 in the credit window. Is this significant? I'm a noob . . .
Quoted from blownfuse:You need to go into the audits using the switch on the inside of the coin door and into test 18, this is the switch matrix test. If you have it set up correctly, you should see a "99" in the credit window after you go into that test. If a bunch of numbers come up other than 99, write them down and report back here with the list.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Hi Guys,
After talking with Steve last night and going over his steps we hit a small snag. I had no way to test a fuse due to my meter not working . . . Then, Slim64 mentioned that he put a few fuses in the coin box. 2.5 slow blows.
Steve had tracked the issue down to the #15 fuse earlier. So, after looking here (http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bh_fuses.htm) to determine the type of fuse needed I pulled out the #15 fuse. It was a 2.5 slow now. Now, Steves page shows that it needs only a 1 amp slow blow. Throwing caution to the wind I put a new 2.5 into #15. Big! Kickoff hole now working.
But, now we have blown fuses on F12: 2-1/2 Amp slow-blow, Upper Center Pop Bumper and
F13: 2-1/2 Amp slow-blow, Lower Center Pop Bumper.
We played BH for a short time without the pop bumpers but by then it was late in the AM hours.
That is where we are at. I will try and get to the store today and pick up some more fuses. Do it best hardware has a great fuse selection. If they don't have what I need I will have to order some.
Question A: Did putting in the 2.5 into #15 cause the pop bumpers F12 & F13 to blow?
Question B: What is causing 15 to blow?
You know what they say. If it ain't broke. It ain't pinball…
Thank you again for all of the help guys!
Ok. So that would mean taking a pop bumper board from one of the working pops in the machine and puting it in a non working pop bumper. Yes? That's why I would mark the initial "faulty Pop board" . . . yes?
The logic being that if the other (new) pop board that I know was not blowing fuses does not blow fuses in the new pop number. The it must be the coils.
Correct?
Is there a better way of telling which boards go to what pop number? My eyes are not what they used to be. A schematic should tell you what boards go to what pop number? yes? Or should I just reflow all four boards? I really don't want to mess with the two that are working. It's the bottom and the center that are blowing the fuses.
Quoted from Slim64:They were pulled from a 80b parts machine I had. I don't recall if I had checked the header pins, so that's my bad.
Onion: The boards can be ID'd by looking at the wiring colors (if I remember correctly) of the activation switch at the pop to the connection.
Ok. I have one of the boards out. Is this board actually updated? It looks different than the updated board on pinwiki. Mainly they have a jumper wire and mine has a diode. Among other differences. Do I need to do these mods like pinkie states or are my boards ok and just may need a reflow. See pics.
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