(Topic ID: 77057)

Black Hole Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,291 posts
  • 297 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by EntityClay
  • Topic is favorited by 139 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1614 How to light up the tube Posted by Mudflaps (5 years ago)

Post #1618 Example photo for a lit tube Posted by Mudflaps (5 years ago)

Post #1628 Example photo for a lit tube Posted by gweempose (5 years ago)

Post #3035 Example for using Ice blue LEDs Posted by Crimcyan (10 months ago)

Post #3157 Adding a potentiometer to the aux lamp driver board for chase lights Posted by Redfive05 (7 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mtnfrost.
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#2485 1 year ago
Quoted from John_I:

I like the cool white because of the space theme. Otherwise I use the sunlight for older games. For the backbox chase lights, I tried a whole lot of different LEDs and almost went back to incandescent before landing on the purple passion. Most LEDs have a white dome even though they are colored light. The white domes look awful in the chase lights. Clear domes and no domes would be too bright because you can see the LED directly and get retina burn! The purple passion 2-SMD have a dark purple dome. Since then Comet has made "indicator lamps" which have domes that are the same color as the LEDs. I would think that these would look good too as chase lights.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/colored-lens-indicator-lamps
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

I'll be picking up mine BH on Tuesday, with a lot of work to do on it. I've seen side by side comparisons between original incandescent and LED ice blue. I like the original color much better, for the backglass at least. Knowing color theory, I agree with your decision to use cool white and nothing more.

#2492 1 year ago

Hey I've joined the ranks! I have big plans, once my ankle heals from hauling this project pin up some stairs. I am working on pin clings for this title right now, this will make fitting those much easier. Gotta clean, assemble, and start looking at issues.
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#2493 1 year ago

Anyone have a picture of a Black Hole with black rubbers?

#2495 1 year ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

I'll do you one better than a photo...my Black Hole is rubbered with black rings and can be seen in the linked video to my YouTube Channel.

Hey thanks! And by the way, I just recently stumbled on your pinball videos. I have to say they are hands down the best, right up there with TNT Amusments. Just wanted to take the time to tell you how much I appreciate your work. Funny story - I watched your video before I bought the BH above. I didn't notice the rubbers!

#2501 1 year ago

So first dumb question as I take stock of the project. This still has the original disc motor, but not connected. I'm looking for the wires that plug into the motor. I assume they should be coming out of a wiring harness? Or are they separate? I'm not seeing them yet.... Thanks

#2503 1 year ago
Quoted from slochar:

it's a separate 2 pin connector unless it's been cut off.

I found it buried. Funny thing is, the connector is not the right shape to reach into the motor housing and make connections with the prongs on the motor. I suspect either I only have one half of the connector (separate wiring / connector coming from the motor), or motor back has been pushed in where the prongs are now too far into the motor housing. Either way, did splice some wire for testing, and the motor will need to be replaced. Thanks!

#2506 1 year ago

Just in time.

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#2508 1 year ago

I posted this in restoration, but I wanted to check with fellow BH owners here. What's the solution? Light sand and re-tin each strip? I've already tried eraser, and I did treat the area with vinegar, just in case. Testing each contact strip, most don't show continuity between the strip and the other end of each trace.

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#2518 1 year ago

Niwumpf are no longer available, right? I could not find any through search

#2521 1 year ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

MtnFrost, you now have the opportunity and excuse to get the Pascal PI-80 board which will give you the choice of getting 7 digit scoring. Yes you’d have to buy the 7 digit displays but you’d have the choice. If I needed an mpu in my Hole, I wouldn’t think twice. I have to play my game on 5 balls cuz the scoring and play is different enough that I can roll it on 3.

The cost is prohibitive or I would.

#2523 1 year ago

I think the original is about 1.5 rpm. I believe the 3rpm motor is 12v, but BH powers it at 6v, halving the speed

#2524 1 year ago
Quoted from Xtraball:

MtnFrost, you now have the opportunity and excuse to get the Pascal PI-80 board which will give you the choice of getting 7 digit scoring. Yes you’d have to buy the 7 digit displays but you’d have the choice. If I needed an mpu in my Hole, I wouldn’t think twice. I have to play my game on 5 balls cuz the scoring and play is different enough that I can roll it on 3.

I wanted to follow up on this - I found ordering from France to be significantly cheaper than buying it from my normal pinball resource, so on second thought, I just ordered the Pascal PI-80x4. I'm looking forward to the possibilities.

#2526 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Hello! I just got done shopping my Black Hole and the game was playing AMAZING. Installed some LEDs where I thought they looked good, slid on the glass for a game and now ALL my flippers, slings and pops are knocked out. Drops, rollovers, kickers on upper and lower all fine. What have I done? I should also note that I had been firing it up every few bulb installs to make sure the game was playing ok. I’m beside myself right now. Any help is appreciated!

Have you checked all the fuses? Dumb question, I know, but I always start with the basics. Don't just do a visual inspection, test them out of the game. I don't have the schematics at the moment, so I do not remember which fuses might be suspect. And for troubleshooting, where were you installing LEDs?

If it involved the backbox, check your cable connections to the solenoid board.

#2528 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

I was installing in GI and inserts on the upper and lower playfields. No backbox bulbs. Could a bad LED cause the pops slings and flippers to cut out? I swear every time I touch a sys 80 I blow it up haha.

No. But check the cable connections to the playfield. Swinging the playfield up / moving it might have caused a connection to be loosened. Just thinking out loud here.

1 week later
#2534 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Is this board salvageable or fully trashed?
[quoted image]

Of course it's salvageable. Just take your time and be methodical as you clean it up and fix it.

#2535 1 year ago

So I'm about to send off the next pinball cling I've created - this one is in the style of Black Hole, but I need a size judgement. Note these are merely printed paper, and the real deal gets mounted under the glass, or under the lower level window. There are 3 sizes, but I only included the smallest in the group shot for conversation. The comparison sizes are medium and large. Thoughts? Should I make more than one size? The large is the same scale as the guy in the plastic above.

Thank you!

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#2538 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I like the one over the return lane.

Great, thanks for the feedback! I've been canvassing across several sites and I have a good idea which to make first. I have other ideas for further astronauts, and maybe even a robot. But I will get these made and continue. Thanks again all!

#2540 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Just joined the club and got 'er working! Anybody do any titan color schemes? How does this game do with LEDs? I'm assuming the chase lights in the backbox at a minimum should be left incandescent?

I am against going colored LED. I have yet to see any attempt to use colored LEDs that doesn't diminish the artwork and make the pin look like puke. It seems most don't have a clue about color theory. But this isn't helpful for you, so I'll point out there is a TNT video that shows side by side Black Hole machines, one LED and one incandescent. I felt the old lights in the head looked better. But you know my position.

#2542 1 year ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I love this video because I'm always like "oh nice, one looks like shit and the other one doesn't!".
I can kind of get behind the one red bulb behind one of the planets but even that's a stretch.

Yeah, it's definitely not showing the original lighting in the best, well, light.

#2546 1 year ago

Check out the latest pinball clings I just got in - my Black Hole is waiting on a Pascal board, so I didn't put it behind the lower plexiglass. But she looks sharp here! I have these for sale if you are interested.

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#2554 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Weird issue I was having was just a trough switch adjustment. What's the best place to get replacements for the two huge power capacitors in the cab? BDE is out of stock.

Have you tried Steve Young at Pinball Resource?

#2561 1 year ago
Quoted from bluespin:

Not everything is listed on his site. I suggest calling him with the part numbers.

I second this. He's a wealth of information, especially being a licensed Gottlieb parts shop. They do like the part numbers, makes their job easier. But he's a good guy, and has helped me find suitable replacement parts for things that were no longer available.

1 week later
#2572 1 year ago

I installed Pascal's board and at first, I was confused. One, I have a few digits out on all the displays, so reading the menus at first was...challenging. Then I had the idiot moment where I can't get a game to start because it says "wait"....I guess I should remember to put THREE balls into the game. Bingo!

I am loving the menus and diagnostics. Two things you might know - when the ball goes to the lower level, nothing works, except the upkicker. I have brand new fuses, so not sure. Second, I didn't see an option in the Pascal board menu to test speech. Sounds, yes, but not speech?

Thanks!

#2573 1 year ago
Quoted from MtnFrost:

I installed Pascal's board and at first, I was confused. One, I have a few digits out on all the displays, so reading the menus at first was...challenging. Then I had the idiot moment where I can't get a game to start because it says "wait"....I guess I should remember to put THREE balls into the game. Bingo!
I am loving the menus and diagnostics. Two things you might know - when the ball goes to the lower level, nothing works, except the upkicker. I have brand new fuses, so not sure. Second, I didn't see an option in the Pascal board menu to test speech. Sounds, yes, but not speech?
Thanks!

Updated. Adjusted switch 33 that turns on the lower level, fixed. Also found the dips on the sound board weren't set right, so all sound and speech is great.

One last PF issue to find - the lower level right flipper is not working, but I need to trace switch and contacts. So good to get this back to life.

#2574 1 year ago

I am trouble shooting - I've done the pinwiki mod to change the lower playfield bulbs from 313s to 44/47s. I am not seeing them come on when playing the lower playfield. I also still have one flipper below not working.

What is the best way to check both? I have the Pascal board installed, FYI. Lamp check doesn't include the lower GI lights that I know of. I'm thinking it could be tied to the L relay, but I did test it's continuity for both when doing the mod. Suggestions?

#2576 1 year ago
Quoted from pin-ball1958:

I simply used 313 LED's from Comet Pinball, available in a lot of colors. Did you check the coil and fuse for the flipper?

I opened it up, after turning it on and triggering the second level, sans ball. Seem precarious to have both levels up, but just in doing that suddenly the right flipper is working. I have to lower it back and see if it stays fixed. I know I could have opted to leave the 313s, but it makes more sense to have them all the same type. The issue with the lower lights is still an issue. They aren't lighting. The other lights they are tied to (now) are getting the proper voltage, and the L relay is working, so not sure what's next? It's not the board, since I've got a Pascal 3-in-1.

#2577 1 year ago

Follow up fixed - the L relay just wasn't making good contact for those lights. Nice to have the 47s down there, all good!

#2580 1 year ago

Last month I wouldn't have gotten that joke. Now, having just brought one back to life....ha!

#2583 1 year ago
Quoted from sysprog:

I’ll try here too (cross posted to TSS):
My #blackhole was refurbished and all grounding mods done over 10 years ago, it’s been solid and trouble free ever since. Last week while playing a game, the upper drops failed to reset. I did a little checking and the fuse was blown, so I replaced it. Machine boots properly, and now when starting a game, the initial sound plays, but the second sound doesn’t play and the ball is not kicked out. Exactly the symptoms if there aren’t three balls in the trough. But with three balls in it, switch test shows switch 25 registering correctly. Is there anything else that would prevent a game from starting?

Tilt? Off the top. Then the kickout coil.

#2588 1 year ago
Quoted from gigasturtz:

Got a Black Hole last week! I’m pretty decent shape overall but it definitely has its problems. A few lights out here and there. Had to solder one of the flipper leaf switches together because one of the leaves broke off, I’ll probably replace it but want to get an idea of what other parts I want to order. Seems like it’d be a good idea to replace the drain switch in the trough, looks like someone adjusted it pretty aggressively in the past and it’s a little flakey.
Big thing I’ll need help with now is what seems to be an all too common problem with this era: sound problems. It was acting as I’d expect for the first few days I had it but recently the sound board flakes out after the game is turned on for a bit. It’ll be fine for a while then it’ll get frozen on a single tone until I turn it off. Any ideas?
Also one of the headers for the score display is a little flakey (flakey seems like the keyword for this post heh): sometimes it’ll show garbage when I turn it on and is fixed if I poke the wires on the header. Can you replace these old style headers with modern headers that secure the connection better?

Congrats!! I love having the continuous bg sound while playing. I’d repin, also scrub the three potentiometers back and forth to insure good contacts. Dumb one, but check the dip switches. You didn’t say if you have speech or not? I did not know the header question. But the caps on the board can be another issue to check.

#2591 1 year ago

I bought a new glass for mine. Nothing but the measurements needed. 90 USD locally

The sound may just be a bad potentiometer

#2596 1 year ago
Quoted from FantasticPinball:

The factory playfields have alignment issues. I've heard complaints that reproductions actually reproduce the factory errors. If you were to buy a new playfield, would you rather the art moved to the holes, or the holes moved to the art? Or perhaps leave things as they are.
The concern for me is that I'd like to print overlays, hardtops, and playfields using the remastered art. If I am doing overlays and hardtops, I have to consider the alignment of the original playfield.
Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.
Fantastic!
[quoted image]

Move the art to line up. I won’t buy overlays or hardtops, so I’d encourage you to do the playfields as original reproductions. Like CPR. But I thought Mirco had that license? I’d be interested to hear more.

#2598 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Mirco did make them but no telling if it is / was exclusive. I get the feeling Steve Young would be happy to take more money.

That would be welcome news.

#2606 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Anybody have any luck repairing the disc motor? Mine just stopped working.

I found it pretty simple to just install a new one. Pretty cheap, too. Pinwiki covers it.

#2609 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Fixed my motor! Drive gear was off but the motor wasnt spinning at all as it was filthy filthy dirty inside.
What can be done about the blue tint on the backglass here?
[quoted image]

Any solution is going to involve scrapping the window clear and applying a new blue film. I don't know which film or where to get it.

#2615 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Nah, it moves very easily. The coil just never pulls the back plate in. I think I seen a wiring hack in the backbox so that could be it. Ill have to pull the manual and trace wires.
Come to think of it, the disc motor is super noisy too. Probably should replace it. I've heard the replacement is super quiet.

In attract mode, does that gate / light switch? I have the Pascal board, but I seem to remember this should be the normal attract behavior?

#2618 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

The light clickson and off. But the gate just stays in the open position.

Wiring to the coil must be broken. Or the coil is bad.

#2622 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Is there evidence that this wasn't done on purpose to illustrate the fact that you need to open the gate during attract mode?
Working towards getting mine set to route and I'm not sure if I want to disable this or not. At face value it's like yeah, maybe the mech will get wear but on the other hand unless there was a service bulletin or something 99% of these games sat on location with that thing clicking on and off all day without issue. And it does help show that the gate is there.

Not sure. Pascal's all-in-one board has it set off by default (just a great board, by the way). I don't miss it, but you have a point.

#2625 1 year ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

On Pinwiki it only says something about how they forgot that the gate was powered by a lamp driver. I dunno, that seems a little far-fetched. I mean if they didn't intend it to click on and off, that noise would have stuck out like a sore thumb. I disabled it anyway just because it gets to be annoying after 20 years.

As mentioned, if you get the Pascal board (and I HIGHLY recommend it), you get that option for free (along with possible 7 digit displays, massive troubleshooting menus, ball save, and so much more).

#2646 1 year ago

troubleshooting why my lower level display just stopped working. The display glass and pins look good, is there anything like a separate fuse or anything? I've got the schematics here, but I'm not seeing anything. Trying for the easy first.

#2659 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I just ordered the replacement motor parts this weekend I'll let you know how it goes..

I've done this exact order and it works so easy to swap them out. I kept the connector for easy connection.

2 weeks later
#2732 1 year ago

I recommend the Pascal board instead - plus, it replaces three boards, and removes all these interconnectivity issues between boards. And it has the most awesome troubleshooting menus.

1 week later
#2764 1 year ago

Hmmm - moved my BH across a few states, now the ball launcher and lower upkicker aren't working. Has the Pascal board. I'll start reading the manual and do the usual troubleshooting. Posting here in case someone knows the fast answer. Thanks

#2767 1 year ago

I unplugged everything when I moved, removing the head from the body. I also removed both PFs from the body to move it down stairs to the street, because it's such a beast. On the moving truck I replaced both PFs, again leaving everything unconnected until re-connecting everything on the other end. It starts fine, but the ball never ejects. Placing one in play, everything is fine until either it drains (same issue) or it drains down below, where it just sits there in the upkicker. I will check my connections. And not that I believe they were touched, I will check the switches for both.

#2769 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

When I moved my Haunted House and setup the first time it had issues. Missed one connection that was laying in the cabinet. Now, before dropping any wires in the cabinet I stuff them all in a plastic grocery bag, tie the flaps to hold them in there, and then drop the hole bag in the cabinet. Then when I setup I just pull out the bag and all the wires are there. No longer need to fight or fish for them. Saves time too.

Seems a wise idea. I always patiently separate and pull up each group to the head. A bag would be less wear and tear, too.

#2770 1 year ago

Follow up - reseating everything didn't fix the issue where the game will not release a ball into the shooter lane.

Secondary issue - I had a little luck reseating for the lower upkicker, but only once. Then reseating them again and it's back to not working - diagnostics gives me a sw 43 display, then the game goes into tilt mode. So more investigation. I want to treat them separately, and get the ball release working first, but I suspect they will be tied together.

#2772 1 year ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Yep... one or more of the connections is bad.

That was my thought. I was looking at the schematics and A1J6 should be a place to start.

#2774 1 year ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I'd work backwards from the solenoid to the Driver board connector, etc...

I've got the brand new Pascal board in there, so I don't think I should have to worry about anything on the board.

#2779 1 year ago
Quoted from sparky672:

I'm not talking about anything on the boards. I am talking about wires connected to the pins inside the plastic connectors. Start at the solenoid and work towards the connectors rather than starting at the MPU and working outward.

Just a follow-up - having traced wires and some work with the connectors, it's definitely a need to repin all the connectors. Not only was I able to get those solenoids working, I also got back missing digits on two of my four displays, and the display in the apron is now working 100%. Lower display is still hit or miss, but it's nothing I'll hit until I do the horrible repinning job.

#2784 1 year ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Anyone recommend a place to buy a readable physical manual from? Having hard time reading some of the board parts on the digital versions available online

Steve Young at Pinball Resource has the license for all things Gottlieb - he has them. Also, Steve is the source of all Gottlieb legs - spoke to him and he’s still waiting on suppliers for the 27” legs. When he has them, everyone will have them.

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