which led's would work best for this pinball, cool white or ice blue leds.?

cool white looks good . same for the bottom playfield too right? , it uses the 28v 313 type of bulb , right?

also working a black hole pinball but need to change the Mylar around the pop bumpers , but i noticed there are some blue mylar or something around the pop bumpers in the video , does anyone know where i can find some of those?

do they make decals for the drop targets?

would a 10,000 UF 35 V capacitor work as a replacement for the filter capacitor.?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C10KM35VRS

does anybody have a extra "L" drop target ? . mine was replaced with some white drop target at some point that does not match . Unfortunately no one sells these lettered drop targets Individually.

there looks to be what was a fuse holder housing that broke off at some point that held this fuse holder . i can't find a replacement for the original holder housing. is there a better modern replacement for the fuse holder ? would a surface mount fuse holder work?

that would work but i would still need something to mount it in or to something like the original fuse holder housing.
maybe this would work? i don't see why it would not work and i could mount it with the other fuses .

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FHSM

okay , i will get a replacement fuse holder like the original one then find something to use to cover it.

can someone confirm if the red dot on the top this capacitor is the positive? .
someone changed the wires on these at one point so they don't match the colors listed in the schematics.
i am about to change the capacitor .

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i found a fuse cover and a new fuse holder but i don't think the old fuse is wired correctly.
i would assume that the two yellow/purple wires go on one end and the purple/blue wire goes on the other end .
not wired together with a different colored wire on the same side . is this the way to do it.?

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its the primary fuse , where the power goes though after the filter capacitor. the schematics show one wire on each side of a different color.
there's a wire going from the fuse to the service outlet but no color code for that one.
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i think i understand the layout now , i traced the wires and the 2 purple /yellow (744) wires has one that go's to the on/off switch and the other to the service outlet and the single purple/blue wire (766) go's to the Line Filter. so it seems it would be best to wire both wires of the same color on the same side.

is this tube kicker at the right angle ?
i put it back together but it looks like its not low enough to catch the ball.
also ,what's this coil function that comes right the tube kicker? and do i have it set up right?

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seems like there was no wire gate on it to begin with . its called a A-20604 . i have looked for one but not found it yet. is there a wire gate that closely matches that?

i looked on their site but i don't find it listed on there . i did ask them so maybe they have one somewhere.
i will have to make one if i cant find one. would this wire work?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-WS-063

what would be the best tool to bend it into the right shape?

it some point the e clip on mine must of slipped off or broke off , causing the wire gate fall off and somehow got lost.
what size of e-clip do i need for this ?

thanks for the help and advise. i should be almost done with my pinball .
i did have to work on the pop bumpers so i did have to remove the wires from the lamp sockets
could i use a wedge socket as a placement ?, the wires are longer so that would easier to solder them back together from under the playfield. or is a different method i could try ?

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the wires that attach are barley long enough for the original socket and not only that , it would be difficult to solder them since that the leads barley stick out from the bottom of the pinball, under the coil . the extra long wire make it easier to solder them. there is nothing wrong the old sockets but i did have to take them off to completely take apart the pop bumper.
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it would be easier because now the wires reach easier and i can twist them together before soldering them together. also the pop bumper bracket is in the way.

i tried the wedge socket ones but they stick up too high and cant keep them in the center.
i guess i try adding a extra wire to to the ends of the old socket to extend its length then after i get it in the pop bumper then solder those wires together.

yes , it will make it easier but the wires under the pinball are still too short to reach , that's why i though of adding a extra wire to socket ends or find a bayonet socket with longer ends on it.

but i will it get figured out . thanks for the help . i will also look into vids pop rebuilding guide if i need any other info.
the other reason i had to remove the pop bumpers was to change the Mylar under them too.
after i get the pop bumper lamp sockets done and build the wire for the lower playfield gate then that should be it as far fixing any visible problems

yes , that looks like what i need to get.

i made a wire for the gate , not the best wire ever but it works.
is the ball supposed to be stopped by the coil mech thing here when it passes under the wire?

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okay i see how it works now , looks it its supposed to block the ball until the coil activates releasing the ball .

i got the pop bumper socket with centering bracket and fit well without being too tall . only thing is does polarity matter on wedge sockets.?
want to make sure i put the right wires on each end.

okay , i got everything wired up it turned it on , but it does not boot up all the way. it lits "tilt" on the backglass when i turn it on but no lights on playfield or no flipper power. the wire gate that catches the ball from the outline keeps trying to fire. the display says "six" on it.

let me know if this switch is set up right. its for the ball save gate in the outlane.
someone help me please.

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how can i tell if the tilt relay is not set right?

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i checked all those , none of those are touching , expect for the door one which his supposed to be closed .

the coils in the outhole work and will seems to start a game with sound for a few seconds but no other coils or gi lights work.
and the displays act glitchy too.

only backbox lights up and tilt lights on , is that what's could also cause the score displays to glitch? this pinball has the most stubborn i have ever worked on , i would hate to give up when i have already gotten this far. just random stuff on displays.
somebody please tell me what to check , because i don't have any idea.

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no acid damage on mpu but its also a reproduction mpu . it came with it when i got the pinball so not sure how old it is.
i will check the coin door . remove coin mechs and the wires?

i have one coin mech in mine that's connected , should it discount it? and the wires?

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the connectors have not been repined. it did look t the a3 j3 plug and one of the pins is broken . it is labeled as pin 2 in the the manual and its function is L43. could even one pin cause an issue like this?

here the mpu board . it does not a have a name on it. also some extra port that are not used.

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good news , i noticed that some of pins bent in were not making contact on the a3-j1 and the a1 j4 connectors between the driver board and the mpu so i bent them out a bit and now it no longer tilts on boot . so it will kind of play now as the flippers work . some other bulbs did come on playfield but there still some bulbs and some switches not working yet. some sounds working but no continuous background sound.
after looking at the a3 j3 plug closely, i noticed it had some broken pins and pins that were bent in and not not making contact . how do i repalce the pins in these and what tools do i need?

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i found the cpu board my black hole uses.
i just need make sure the switch setting are correct but it does not have all those dip switches like the original board.
it was made in 2005 and it uses a serial port to change setting which my computer is too new to have a serial port. maybe i should get a rottendog mpu ?. it might fix those glitchy displays problems i am having

http://ni-wumpf.com/Legacy/System80CPU.html

i swapped the lower playfield score display with the lower right and the displays show different messed up text then it did before.
could it be the 2 ic chips have failed on these displays?.i did swap the other displays again , each time it did show something different but not as much difference as these displays . it would seem to indicate be that the displays themselves are messed up but how could all the display be messed up?

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good news. i got most of it working except for the displays . i got the sound to work correctly after flipping the switches the sound board.
and all most of coils work and everything on lower playfield is working. the only issue besides the displays is when you boot it up it kicks a ball out into the plunger. likely to do with those connectors which i will get fixed soon.

despite kicking a ball out into the plunger on boot , it works normal during gameplay .

for the ball releasing into the plunger on boot , i found some info on what is likely causing the issue.
its called a Power on "Thunk" when this happens. and the fix is not that simple.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Power_on_.22Thunk.22

i also found some info on testing the udn6116 chips on the displays with a multimeter.
i have tested my displays and got reading that indicate that some of the pins on some of the the udn6116 chips the don't work.
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/#display

i have ordered some new udn6116 chips to put in the displays.
so once those arrive i will put them in and see if it fixes anything.

where can i get a replacement 24 pin connector housing?

i don't think i can repin the original . looks like someone tried already and did a bad job .
the connectors housing been melted and everything. that why i want to get a new connector housing.
these is likely what is causing displays problems. i tested the connections with a multimeter and there is at least a couple of pins that are not making contact with the soldered wire.

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yes it is in very bad shape and needs to be replaced for sure , one of the wires has already fallen off it . so i will order a new one from docent electronics .
but never ordered from docent electronics before. it looks like you can't place an order on their website. i see the parts on there
but there no " add to cart" or anything . is there another place to get this part?

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the connector i need is a 24 pin connector for the J2 slot of the mpu for a black hole pinball , ken.

it uses 27 3/8 inch legs . there are some that can be found on these sites.
but unfortunately both currently list them as out of stock.
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/gottlieb-leg-p-8272.html?_route_=gottlieb-leg-p-8272.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-4337

i emailed docent electronics on Saturday but they have not responded back yet.

i got a hold of docent electronics them by texting their number . they will send my order when they receive my usps money order.
so i will have my part on the way soon.

one other thing is that display 1 and 2 don't come on during gameplay. they flash on at boot and at the start of each ball then go blank.
still showing the glitchy stuff it was before . i have not checked the power board but could it cause a issue with the displays if voltage is low?
maybe the display connectors will fix that but for now i take a break from this.

i am going to start with the connectors on the j3 connector of the driver board replacing the pin that were broken off since i have those replacement pins now.
i managed to one of the broken pins out but it was hard to get out due to being broken at the top . is there a easier way to do it?

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now i am to the crimping part and i realize i don't have a Crimping Tool .
so i ordered the SN58B. anyone have any experience with that one.?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FR38529/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

i was about to put in a Trough Lighting Kit. it came with some clips to hook it up to a bulb socket . can someone show how they hooked theirs up?
i assume its a bulb socket connected to the GI. but not sure which end each the two clips hook on .

okay, i found a better to do it . i used a three way splitter to connect the flipper buttons and though lighting kit . i was unsure about using the clips since they could fall off so just connected to this socket in the door with the 3 way splitter.

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i think the only thing i need to fix now other than the displays is of the 2 pop bumpers not working. i checked to make sure pop bumper switches were making contact and the fuses were good so no problem there . so i assume it is one of pop bumper driver boards that's having a problem.

i swapped the working pop bumper boards onto the other pop bumpers and they work. looks like the problem is on the pop bumper board.
is there a common component that fails on these? or i could just could get a replacement pop bumper driver board . they are not that much.
ebay.com link: itm

i got one of the pop bumpers drivers fixed by resoldering the connectors pin's on the back that had cracked solder joints.
now the only pop bumper left to fix is one in the lower center which its driver board is located all the way in the back of the playfield.

so the working pop bumper driver in back is the upper center one which i swapped out with the lower center one but the pop bumper did not work even with the working pop driver board so the problem lies elsewhere. i found the info on where the pop bumper drivers are in the system 80 club manual.
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i will do more testing on it later. not tried that yet but i will later.
already tried resoldering the pins on the lower center driver board.

something i just found with the displays ,
what i thought was a different result every time i inserted a different display , was actually a different result with the same display . i cleaned the pins on the display some more and it was almost working but with a different result every time i inserted into the same connector so it means that the connectors to the
displays are need replaced too along with the mpu connectors. these connectors are different than the ones on the mpu , how do i change them?

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how will the other wires connect to the other displays in series. i thought it was a pass thru connector .?
the same wires are needed for multiple displays. can 2 wires fit in a crimp connector.?

okay , i will try one of those techniques for getting both wires into the connector . but i will wait until i redo the pins on the connector on the mpu and
and one that broke off on the driver board before i do the connectors on the displays. still waiting on that crimping tool . i will need to practice with that crimping tool since i have never used one.

okay i don't know if this means anything but should the bonus display only score for the bottom playfield? on mine the player 1 score shows on the bonus display and the lower playfield player score shows on the player 1 display. still glitchy but does that mean the connections are wrong somewhere?

your black hole looks great , and even your old used plastics look look less yellow than mine , especially the clear parts ,
i could use those plastics if you don't need them.
how much did you want for them?, i do have a couple of plastics that are cracked on the main playfield and all are a bit yellow.
i am nearly done fixing everything on my black hole.

okay no hurry , i am still sure that i want them.

i did have some intermittent sound issues were sometimes the sounds would be missing then come back.
but it due the switches on the sound board not making good contact. i filliped the switches back and forth a few times and never had the problem again .
but i did have a flash pinball that had similar issues with losing sounds after a hour but that was due to a old capacitor that had dried up.