(Topic ID: 77057)

Black Hole Club... Members Only!

By mof

10 years ago


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  • 3,291 posts
  • 297 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by EntityClay
  • Topic is favorited by 139 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

6 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1614 How to light up the tube Posted by Mudflaps (5 years ago)

Post #1618 Example photo for a lit tube Posted by Mudflaps (5 years ago)

Post #1628 Example photo for a lit tube Posted by gweempose (5 years ago)

Post #3035 Example for using Ice blue LEDs Posted by Crimcyan (10 months ago)

Post #3157 Adding a potentiometer to the aux lamp driver board for chase lights Posted by Redfive05 (7 months ago)


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#1993 3 years ago

OK, so I joined the club a little while back but the game has been in my garage for a few months. It finally made it inside to be gone through completely from top to bottom and made spotless clean and 100% functional too.

One of the first things I've accomplished is replacing the motor for the spinning wheel in the backglass. The motor my game came with barely worked and when it did spin it was about 10rpm instead of 3rpm. Also, it was noisy as hell. I started by referencing pinwiki for the basic information, but the hub(s) they recommend are no longer available. I developed my own solution for the hub so replacing the motor was very easy and only required two parts. First is the Servo City SKU Number: 638158 motor. This is the proper 3rpm motor that operates at 12volts. Second is an M3 screw to mount the motor to the plate.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_.22Spinning_Disk.22_Motor

https://www.servocity.com/3-rpm-gear-motor/

The motor mounted just as suggested on pinwiki and I installed a molex connector rather than soldering the wires direct to the motor. For the hub I just reused the original hub. All that was required was to drill out the center hole of the hub to 1/4 inch to accept the larger motor shaft on the new motor. You will first want to back the set screw way back in the hub so it doesn't get hit by the drill. The hub is aluminum and easy to drill with a drill press.

So that is it. Basically remove the old motor, remove the mounting plate from the old motor, install mounting plate on new motor with a single locktited screw, drill out the original hub to 1/4 inch, install the hub on the new motor, solder short wires on motor and crimp in molex connectors, install the assembly back in the backbox and connect it up. The spinning disk will off course install using the original screws since the original hub was retained. You might have to adjust the hub inward or outward to set the clearance from the bulbs and backglass. The new motor works great, spins at the correct speed and is much quieter.

#1995 3 years ago

Behind the spinning disk I put a mix of all three kinds of 455 LEDs that Comet sells. I think it looks good plus there are no domes on the LEDs, so they give a bunch of added clearance.

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8 months later
#2304 2 years ago

Getting really hard to find the edge type connector housings to replace the ones that are IDC and can't be repinned. PBR doesn't have them, GPE seems to be out of stock on all the ones I want and the Docent place has such bizarre ordering requirements I would rather not even try them. Any other suggestions people have found?

I may go to Plan B and carefully drill the boards, solder in regular molex headers like in a WPC game and use the standard .156 connectors.

#2308 2 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

Docent Electronics has them. Also has the interconnect harness. I just ordered new connectors and an interconnect for my Black Hole restoration. It's really not that bad, text your order to the number provided and they sent you a text back with your total including shipping. Head to the post office and get a money order for the total and mail it to them. When they receive it they ship your order. It's a little weird but they are the only place that has them I think.

I checked everyone else and Docent is the only one who has them available. I decided to give them my business rather than making my own solution. It was a little strange the way you order, but I do notice they are under new ownership as of this month, so maybe that will change? Either way, I am glad they are there otherwise I think these parts would not be available at all.

1 month later
#2330 2 years ago

I finally took the time to replace a ton of connectors with nice new ones and also removed a rat's nest of wiring hacks in my Black Hole. Now my game plays perfectly, runs rock solid and all of the sound issues are completely fixed. The game is brutally fast, but I was able to finally make use of that 7th digit in the new displays!! This really is a great game and so beautiful I turn it on just to look at it as I walk by.

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#2343 2 years ago

3 ball for me. Getting the upper lock lit on the first ball while slaying drop targets and lighting G forces. Also, when the gate is open and you drain on the lower playfield it really helps to hit it directly back down to the lower playfield without hitting anything else to keep the gate open. And yes, multipliers and extra balls are important. Dropping the white targets twice lights extra ball.

#2350 2 years ago

I got my displays from Boston Pinball Company. It's a little pricey, but I already had the Pascal board. The kit comes with four 7-digit displays, one 6-digit display for the playfield bonus and one for the apron. They look awesome!!

#2353 2 years ago
Quoted from House:

I have been searching with no luck for the card that goes on the right hand side. Does anyone have a spare one or could make a copy of theirs?
[quoted image]

All you need and a lot more from Inkochnito:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

1 month later
#2369 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

No programming needed just disconnect the gate solenoid and it should hang open.

Or use the settings on the Flippp MPU board.

#2371 2 years ago

There are setting for the gate in the Pascal/Flippp menus. One of them gives a 7 second ball saver. I haven't tried it. I am still on the factory setting.

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2 months later
#2391 2 years ago

Shay has been listing Black Hole backglass as coming soon for years it seems like... Still not available.

4 weeks later
4 months later
#2484 1 year ago
Quoted from Matthew2015:

which led's would work best for this pinball, cool white or ice blue leds.?

I like the cool white because of the space theme. Otherwise I use the sunlight for older games. For the backbox chase lights, I tried a whole lot of different LEDs and almost went back to incandescent before landing on the purple passion. Most LEDs have a white dome even though they are colored light. The white domes look awful in the chase lights. Clear domes and no domes would be too bright because you can see the LED directly and get retina burn! The purple passion 2-SMD have a dark purple dome. Since then Comet has made "indicator lamps" which have domes that are the same color as the LEDs. I would think that these would look good too as chase lights.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/colored-lens-indicator-lamps

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

1 week later
#2522 1 year ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

I would like to know what speed the original spins at as I have a new motor with variable speed and I have it set faster than yours. Thank you.

I read somewhere it is 3rpm. I put a 3RPM motor in mine it is looks just right - after I reversed the wires because it was spinning backwards.

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