If anybody is considering getting out of the club I'm looking for a way in!
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Just joined the club and got 'er working! Anybody do any titan color schemes? How does this game do with LEDs? I'm assuming the chase lights in the backbox at a minimum should be left incandescent?
If I lock a ball on the lower playfield, then the game ends it does not kick the ball back into the trough. When the next game starts a ball is fed into the shooter lane, then the locked ball is fed into the trough, and a second ball pops into the shooter lane. The first ball drained ends the ball but then the issue carries over to ball two (ball is fed into shooter lane, then the ball still on the playfield drains and it feeds a second ball into the shooter lane). Anyone seen this before? It seems like the trough and lock switches are working properly so maybe it's the shooter lane switch. Gottlieb's horrible fricking test software made me want to ask here first before messing around with it. (Edit: lol no shooter lane switch)
Also, my game has the non-updated pop bumper boards in it. Is whatever issue it causes bad enough where I shouldn't play it while waiting for update kits?
Weird issue I was having was just a trough switch adjustment. What's the best place to get replacements for the two huge power capacitors in the cab? BDE is out of stock.
Mirco did make them but no telling if it is / was exclusive. I get the feeling Steve Young would be happy to take more money.
Is there evidence that this wasn't done on purpose to illustrate the fact that you need to open the gate during attract mode?
Working towards getting mine set to route and I'm not sure if I want to disable this or not. At face value it's like yeah, maybe the mech will get wear but on the other hand unless there was a service bulletin or something 99% of these games sat on location with that thing clicking on and off all day without issue. And it does help show that the gate is there.
Check the wiring to make sure the signal side of the coil hasn't been bridged from the hole targets?
After rebuilding my motor it spins way too fast. Like around 10RPM and looks ridiculous. It's the factory setup. I was testing it with a 9v battery when I was putting it back together I thought maybe it was just fast because it was 9v vs 6 that the game feeds it. Even under load with the disc on it, it's probably around 10rpm.
My first thought was that I geared it wrong as the drive gear was loose in the gearbox. Can anyone confirm that the motor has the small metal gear and the drive shaft / part that connects to the spinning disc has the large metal gear? Any other ideas why this thing is spinning fast as hell? It looks like this is the only way it could go together.
Edit: there are disc capacitors grounded to the lid of the case. Is it possible the motor contacts, one or both are supposed to be soldered to it as well for some reason? I remember taking it apart and thinking wow those things were awfully close to being in contact with the metal casing. Probably nothing?
Also on the inside of the motor there was a good deal of soot I had to clean up, but no indication of what might have burned.
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I just ordered the replacement motor parts this weekend I'll let you know how it goes.
My disc is in beautiful shape other than a very slight toast mark. If you repo them there's a good chance that Steve Young will pounce on you with a C&D. Who knows, maybe he'll just want a pile of them to sell but he's likely going to want his taste so I'd either interface with him or say "pm me if you want in on a repro spinning disc" to keep it off the public channels.
Ah. Tread carefully if dealing with a certain german dude. He's still got a playfield and a plastic set from around 2018 that he is about to get started on any day now every time I've asked.
I got my replacement motor installed using the pinwiki guide. A little louder than I hoped but it spins a revolution every 40 seconds which looks real nice. I was upset to find out that you either get attract lights AND random speech or neither. The game just doesn't look right sitting there with no chase lights on but the "no one escapes the black hole" every 4ish minutes is annoying.
I thought I remembered seeing that in the manual at some point but couldn't find it, only dip 30 was attract on / off. It's still like a max of 4 or 5 minutes though right?
Oh hell yes thanks man! Did a Google and 3-4 off is no attract sound. Always feels like I'm still getting my feet wet with Gottys.
Background tones ain't it that's for in game and has to remain off on this title. Switch 30 is for attract mode and if it's off there's no chase lights.
I'm surprised nobody has made printed mylar to cover the pop areas that are missing paint 100% of the time. Probably because there is no source art available
First you need to fix the tilt condition. Check your bob for being stuck and the slam switches. There is a tilt relay that may be stuck on or improperly adjusted on the back rear (I think, not sure) of the playfield next to the game over relay.
I don't know offhand which are supposed to be NO/NC. Make sure they're at least changing when it activates. But if it's activating when it's not supposed to it's likely an issue with your slam, roll, or bob tilts.
Coin door switches being grounded can cause all kinds of issues. Try removing your coin mechs and making sure they're clear. Any acid damage on the mpu?
Just remove the mech and ensure none of the leaf switches are contacting any metal anywhere. Mine had the lockout coil wire contacting one of the coin switch leafs and it caused all kinds of wacky issues.
They make repros for that connector sitch might be easier. If not you'll need an extractor, crimper, wire stripper, and terminals. You'll probably have better luck and faster response googling some of the more generic stuff like this. Pinwiki is a good resource too.
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