the connector i need is a 24 pin connector for the J2 slot of the mpu for a black hole pinball , ken.

What are the correct length legs for Black Hole?

it uses 27 3/8 inch legs . there are some that can be found on these sites.
but unfortunately both currently list them as out of stock.
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/gottlieb-leg-p-8272.html?_route_=gottlieb-leg-p-8272.html
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-4337

i emailed docent electronics on Saturday but they have not responded back yet.

I have a new disc if anyone is looking for one.

I doubt it. With the Halloween '22 and election messaging, their home page seems pretty up to date and active enough.

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There's also a phone number and ordering instructions.

https://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/Forms%20and%20Info%20pages/shippingandpayment.htm

If you're referring to this, Google relies on crowd-sourcing so that information may not be 100% accurate. Notice the phone number on Google is not correct; and the address does not the match where I sent my last payment. (That may be the founder's location- his daughter took over the business last year)

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Pinball Resource also stocks this size leg. His website says that he’s out so I suggest calling and asking a restock date.

PBR is out of them too.

i got a hold of docent electronics them by texting their number . they will send my order when they receive my usps money order.
so i will have my part on the way soon.

I was merely responding to false information about them being out of business.

one other thing is that display 1 and 2 don't come on during gameplay. they flash on at boot and at the start of each ball then go blank.
still showing the glitchy stuff it was before . i have not checked the power board but could it cause a issue with the displays if voltage is low?
maybe the display connectors will fix that but for now i take a break from this.

Hmmm - moved my BH across a few states, now the ball launcher and lower upkicker aren't working. Has the Pascal board. I'll start reading the manual and do the usual troubleshooting. Posting here in case someone knows the fast answer. Thanks

If you only unplugged everything, etc. to remove the head for the move, then you likely have a dirty connection(s) someplace. You may also have had some bad connections that broke from the vibrations of travel. Gently clean the card edges and inspect the pins in all the plastic housings. Inspect all wiring and solder connections for breakage.

Otherwise, besides connections, there's not much else that trucking vibrations can affect.

Did you leave a connector off or unplugged? Or possibly knock one loose that you didn't notice?

I unplugged everything when I moved, removing the head from the body. I also removed both PFs from the body to move it down stairs to the street, because it's such a beast. On the moving truck I replaced both PFs, again leaving everything unconnected until re-connecting everything on the other end. It starts fine, but the ball never ejects. Placing one in play, everything is fine until either it drains (same issue) or it drains down below, where it just sits there in the upkicker. I will check my connections. And not that I believe they were touched, I will check the switches for both.

When I moved my Haunted House and setup the first time it had issues. Missed one connection that was laying in the cabinet. Now, before dropping any wires in the cabinet I stuff them all in a plastic grocery bag, tie the flaps to hold them in there, and then drop the hole bag in the cabinet. Then when I setup I just pull out the bag and all the wires are there. No longer need to fight or fish for them. Saves time too.

Seems a wise idea. I always patiently separate and pull up each group to the head. A bag would be less wear and tear, too.

Follow up - reseating everything didn't fix the issue where the game will not release a ball into the shooter lane.

Secondary issue - I had a little luck reseating for the lower upkicker, but only once. Then reseating them again and it's back to not working - diagnostics gives me a sw 43 display, then the game goes into tilt mode. So more investigation. I want to treat them separately, and get the ball release working first, but I suspect they will be tied together.

Yep... one or more of the connections is bad.

That was my thought. I was looking at the schematics and A1J6 should be a place to start.

I'd work backwards from the solenoid to the Driver board connector, etc...

I've got the brand new Pascal board in there, so I don't think I should have to worry about anything on the board.

I'm not talking about anything on the boards. I am talking about wires connected to the pins inside the plastic connectors. Start at the solenoid and work towards the connectors rather than starting at the MPU and working outward.

i am going to start with the connectors on the j3 connector of the driver board replacing the pin that were broken off since i have those replacement pins now.
i managed to one of the broken pins out but it was hard to get out due to being broken at the top . is there a easier way to do it?

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now i am to the crimping part and i realize i don't have a Crimping Tool .
so i ordered the SN58B. anyone have any experience with that one.?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FR38529/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Yep. That's the same one I suggested to you previously.

No. There is no shortcut. You sometimes have to fiddle with it or jiggle the tool a bit. You just need to release the locking tab and it comes right out. If the connector is mangled, look at it under magnification and make sure no part of the pin is bent and catching plastic.

Just a follow-up - having traced wires and some work with the connectors, it's definitely a need to repin all the connectors. Not only was I able to get those solenoids working, I also got back missing digits on two of my four displays, and the display in the apron is now working 100%. Lower display is still hit or miss, but it's nothing I'll hit until I do the horrible repinning job.

i was about to put in a Trough Lighting Kit. it came with some clips to hook it up to a bulb socket . can someone show how they hooked theirs up?
i assume its a bulb socket connected to the GI. but not sure which end each the two clips hook on .

okay, i found a better to do it . i used a three way splitter to connect the flipper buttons and though lighting kit . i was unsure about using the clips since they could fall off so just connected to this socket in the door with the 3 way splitter.

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Anyone recommend a place to buy a readable physical manual from? Having hard time reading some of the board parts on the digital versions available online

Since Gottlieb controls the copyright, you can only buy from a licensed dealer or used via eBay, etc.

PBR is authorized and sells them for $20.

Part number GM-668

http://www.pbresource.com/Blackhole.html#doc

Steve Young at Pinball Resource has the license for all things Gottlieb - he has them. Also, Steve is the source of all Gottlieb legs - spoke to him and he’s still waiting on suppliers for the 27” legs. When he has them, everyone will have them.

i think the only thing i need to fix now other than the displays is of the 2 pop bumpers not working. i checked to make sure pop bumper switches were making contact and the fuses were good so no problem there . so i assume it is one of pop bumper driver boards that's having a problem.

Don't assume anything. Swap with one of your known working pop bumper boards.

i swapped the working pop bumper boards onto the other pop bumpers and they work. looks like the problem is on the pop bumper board.
is there a common component that fails on these? or i could just could get a replacement pop bumper driver board . they are not that much.
ebay.com link: itm

Have you read the PinWiki yet? Seriously.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Pop_bumper_problems

These are simple boards that are fairly easy to repair. BigDaddy, when they reopen, sells a rebuild kit which makes it easier.

http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/repairkits/gottlieb_kits.htm#g-pop1

i got one of the pop bumpers drivers fixed by resoldering the connectors pin's on the back that had cracked solder joints.
now the only pop bumper left to fix is one in the lower center which its driver board is located all the way in the back of the playfield.

so the working pop bumper driver in back is the upper center one which i swapped out with the lower center one but the pop bumper did not work even with the working pop driver board so the problem lies elsewhere. i found the info on where the pop bumper drivers are in the system 80 club manual.
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How are you testing? Are you jumpering between pins 4 & 6 on the driver board to bypass the trigger switch?

i will do more testing on it later. not tried that yet but i will later.
already tried resoldering the pins on the lower center driver board.

something i just found with the displays ,
what i thought was a different result every time i inserted a different display , was actually a different result with the same display . i cleaned the pins on the display some more and it was almost working but with a different result every time i inserted into the same connector so it means that the connectors to the
displays are need replaced too along with the mpu connectors. these connectors are different than the ones on the mpu , how do i change them?

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Those are called punch-downs. Those are what the "single sided" connectors on your MPU used to look like.

The crimp-on version of these pins are still obtainable and they will fit inside these same plastic punch-down housings without a problem.

Molex 08-52-0072 (single) or Molex 08-52-0071 (on strips)

I found some on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-08-52-0072-Connector-Position-Straight/dp/B06VVJSKWT/ref=sr_1_1

Using Molex crimp-on pins with the punch-down connector...

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how will the other wires connect to the other displays in series. i thought it was a pass thru connector .?
the same wires are needed for multiple displays. can 2 wires fit in a crimp connector.?

No. I just spliced the two wires together about an inch back from the crimp and left one longer. Crimped onto longer one. Not a big deal.

You can crimp 2 wires into one crimp but you can't get the insulation into it. Splicing is the bigger PITA imo as to do it right you'd have to solder & heat shrink the splices to do it right.

You'd have to use the crimps for the larger wires 16-18 gauge is the size IIRC vs. the 22 ga. size, it flat out won't fit at all in the 22.

I would not try to jam two wires into one crimp-on; it's asking for problems since the crimp is not large enough.

It's really not a big deal to solder and heat shrink unless soldering & heat shrinking is something you're not familiar with. I had to remove the punchdown for my score 3 ground and do the same...

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It's the way pinrepair.com does it good enough for me.

Ah yes... the same place where this came from...

from Clay's Guide for System 80

We will agree to disagree.