Wow, no kidding! Good eyes...

Well, my rotation motor started making the grinding sound tonight.

Ok guys, I guess I’m jumping in the deep end. Pin wiki here I come!!3D7103F1-6728-4AC5-A141-451E2BEF1791 (resized).jpegD0A279AB-365F-4B8D-85BD-1FCD7868CBBE (resized).jpegD67F8911-00DB-4AA0-8B02-E45ACC693371 (resized).jpeg

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Black_Hole#Replacing_the_Black_Hole_.22Spinning_Disk.22_Motor

It's right around $50 to replace everything.

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How many people need the inner spinning disc for their black holes? Was speaking with someone about reproducing them.... not sure how much interest there is but I gather it'd sell fairly well?

I just ordered the replacement motor parts this weekend I'll let you know how it goes.

My disc is in beautiful shape other than a very slight toast mark. If you repo them there's a good chance that Steve Young will pounce on you with a C&D. Who knows, maybe he'll just want a pile of them to sell but he's likely going to want his taste so I'd either interface with him or say "pm me if you want in on a repro spinning disc" to keep it off the public channels.

Not naming any names, but it would be through a party that has the license for the artwork.

Ah. Tread carefully if dealing with a certain german dude. He's still got a playfield and a plastic set from around 2018 that he is about to get started on any day now every time I've asked.

I've done this exact order and it works so easy to swap them out. I kept the connector for easy connection.

Does anybody have one (or preferably, two) of these they can give me? Willing to buy it or trade you for one of the other ones I have.

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Chalkey, I have a used one with a small burnt spot from the bulb you can have.

This is exactly what is going on. For some reason. Someone has bridged the signal side of the coils. I'll dig into why later. But now I know why it is happening. Im guessing an operator lost signal to the BLACK side and chose this as a way to fix the problem quickly.

Badass! Should hopefully be an easy fix.

I love it when I get it right!

Hi team.

I have landed a decent Black Hole project game.

It’s the export version - but the previous owner imported a USA Headbox for it (with spelling disc)

Unfortunately it has no boards.

I have a Pascal 3-1 here for it - and the Export sound board (I believe that has no speech - but it will do for now)

What I need to know - I see in the below picture there are 2x boards for the chase lights? The Aux driver which I see Barakandl has. What’s the power board next to it?

Cheers!
Dave.

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Spinning disk !!

Only one board for chasers, board on right is power supply for speech board.

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Awesome, thanks!

So I presume the chaser board must have originally drawn power from the main power board?

Now I’ll have to work out how to get it from the Pascal board I guess …

rd

5V feed.

Soon as the board sees 5V its off and running.

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I got my replacement motor installed using the pinwiki guide. A little louder than I hoped but it spins a revolution every 40 seconds which looks real nice. I was upset to find out that you either get attract lights AND random speech or neither. The game just doesn't look right sitting there with no chase lights on but the "no one escapes the black hole" every 4ish minutes is annoying.

You can change the duration, rockers on the sound board control how often BH chatters in attract mode.

I thought I remembered seeing that in the manual at some point but couldn't find it, only dip 30 was attract on / off. It's still like a max of 4 or 5 minutes though right?

Check sound board settings, separate from MPU

Oh hell yes thanks man! Did a Google and 3-4 off is no attract sound. Always feels like I'm still getting my feet wet with Gottys.

The attract sound is adjustable for how often, the adjustment is on the sound board itself.

MPU adjustment is just on/off.

From the Black Hole manual:

MPU switch 30 to turn Attract mode on/off

MPU switch 32 for background tone (Sound board only, Sound & Speech, this switch stays off):

Screen Shot 2022-09-12 at 1.10.34 PM (resized).png

Sound board switches 3 and 4 for attract mode:

Screen Shot 2022-09-12 at 11.26.24 AM (resized).png

Background tones ain't it that's for in game and has to remain off on this title. Switch 30 is for attract mode and if it's off there's no chase lights.

Thanks!

is this tube kicker at the right angle ?
i put it back together but it looks like its not low enough to catch the ball.
also ,what's this coil function that comes right the tube kicker? and do i have it set up right?

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See this threads image gallery - do these pics help?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-club-members-only/page/14#post-2630300

It makes sure there's only one ball at the tube up kicker at any time. You're currently missing the wire that stalls any drained second ball.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-club-members-only/page/49#post-6791036
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-club-members-only/page/32#post-4557744

seems like there was no wire gate on it to begin with . its called a A-20604 . i have looked for one but not found it yet. is there a wire gate that closely matches that?

No, but try pinball resource to see if they have it. If you decide to make one don't use a paper clip, not strong enough.

It's pretty easy to make I did one years ago on mine.

i looked on their site but i don't find it listed on there . i did ask them so maybe they have one somewhere.
i will have to make one if i cant find one. would this wire work?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-WS-063

what would be the best tool to bend it into the right shape?

A wire bending jig is mentioned in the wire's description:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-8593

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-WS-KIT

here is an image from an earlier post of the gate you should be able to make one based on this

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it some point the e clip on mine must of slipped off or broke off , causing the wire gate fall off and somehow got lost.
what size of e-clip do i need for this ?

You get nine sizes in this variety pack. STOREHOUSE E-Clip Assortment, 300 Piece - Item 67653 https://hftools.com/app67653

Local hardware store like Ace Hardware would have e-clips in the bins in their nuts/bolts aisle. You can buy them one at a time there for probably something like 25¢ each. It's also a great place to get oddball stuff like bushings, springs, t-nuts, etc.

thanks for the help and advise. i should be almost done with my pinball .
i did have to work on the pop bumpers so i did have to remove the wires from the lamp sockets
could i use a wedge socket as a placement ?, the wires are longer so that would easier to solder them back together from under the playfield. or is a different method i could try ?

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But why? What is wrong with the original sockets? I just cleaned mine with a scratch pen and good to go.

the wires that attach are barley long enough for the original socket and not only that , it would be difficult to solder them since that the leads barley stick out from the bottom of the pinball, under the coil . the extra long wire make it easier to solder them. there is nothing wrong the old sockets but i did have to take them off to completely take apart the pop bumper.
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Just solder a short wire to the socket as a jumper.
Then solder the wires together and heat shrink.

The socket you picture would work but it flops around and the bulb might touch the pop top, with regular bulbs it will put a burn mark on the top.

Pinball life sells a similar socket but it sits lower in the pop body.

You would still have to completely remove any style of socket to take apart the pop bumper. Nothing gained there.

I guess I don't understand the issue or how having wires would be easier there. Soldering two wires together under the playfield is always more difficult because you need a third hand. Plus you'd need to tape or heat-shrink the exposed wire connections and then deal with that next time.

On my four pop bumpers, I just tinned the ends of the socket leads and the wires with solder ahead of time. I held the wire against the lead and touched them with the hot tip of the soldering iron for a couple seconds. Easy and quick.

it would be easier because now the wires reach easier and i can twist them together before soldering them together. also the pop bumper bracket is in the way.

Those 555 sockets may limit your choices on types of bulbs. I think they hold them up a little taller in the pop bumper.
I swapped out on my old KISS and now must use “flat top” LEDs in there.
Not a huge deal for me, but wanted to share.

Jeff

i tried the wedge socket ones but they stick up too high and cant keep them in the center.
i guess i try adding a extra wire to to the ends of the old socket to extend its length then after i get it in the pop bumper then solder those wires together.

Two nuts and three screws, and the bracket is out of the way. It will make resoldering much easier when using the original sockets.

yes , it will make it easier but the wires under the pinball are still too short to reach , that's why i though of adding a extra wire to socket ends or find a bayonet socket with longer ends on it.

but i will it get figured out . thanks for the help . i will also look into vids pop rebuilding guide if i need any other info.
the other reason i had to remove the pop bumpers was to change the Mylar under them too.
after i get the pop bumper lamp sockets done and build the wire for the lower playfield gate then that should be it as far fixing any visible problems

I'm surprised nobody has made printed mylar to cover the pop areas that are missing paint 100% of the time. Probably because there is no source art available

I always use these. I like how they mount with the two screws. Never noticed an issue with height, but I always put LEDs back in.

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yes , that looks like what i need to get.