It looks like the typical 4.7k ohms pull-up resistor upgrade for Gottlieb games with remote driver power transistors.

See the second picture here:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_1#Remote_Mounted_Transistor_Upgrade

Thank You very much. It is clear now for me !

Weird issue I was having was just a trough switch adjustment. What's the best place to get replacements for the two huge power capacitors in the cab? BDE is out of stock.

Have you tried Steve Young at Pinball Resource?

I think I looked and he didnt have them but I'll double check tomorrow

I just replaced my power supply. BDE’s kit cost $25 (2016 was the last update on his site). As his kit isn’t available, I Bought everything from Mouser and it cost me about $100 !! The capacitors accounted for a lot of that. Prices have really gone up!

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Mouser links for the capacitors
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/75-36DX482G050AB2A
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/598-DCMX123U040AA2B

HOLY SHIT!!!

Not everything is listed on his site. I suggest calling him with the part numbers.

Digikey has a good selection of snap style capacitors for cheaper. Could just solder them in instead I'd think. Just make sure voltage rating is high enough and it has a similar size diameter if you want the original clamps to hold them in place.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwHYAMSAEBjAhgB0%20glgC4D2ATqgKYA2F6hpxVAnofuqgM4B2OIAugF8gA

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitors/58?s=N4IgjCBcoEwAwBYCcVQGMoBcBOBXApgDQgD2UA2uPHHAAQCtAYiALrEAOmUIAqgHYBLTAHkAZgFl8AQwDOubPhABfJcRgUqNOminspaISWy18AG3xocJUwE9MAtLRl9drJUA

I second this. He's a wealth of information, especially being a licensed Gottlieb parts shop. They do like the part numbers, makes their job easier. But he's a good guy, and has helped me find suitable replacement parts for things that were no longer available.

do they make decals for the drop targets?

would a 10,000 UF 35 V capacitor work as a replacement for the filter capacitor.?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C10KM35VRS

The orange in the cab? Yep. Recommended to bump the original 4.7k one (or 6.8k) up so good upgrade.

There's supposed to be a 4700/4800 and a 10 or 12K one right? What is that 6800 to replace?

It's whatever the original cap is I don't remember the exact value.

does anybody have a extra "L" drop target ? . mine was replaced with some white drop target at some point that does not match . Unfortunately no one sells these lettered drop targets Individually.

Happy to be in the club everyone. It’s been about 20 years since I worked on a system 80 game but have to say it was totally worth bringing one back to life. Really enjoying this pin! It’s every bit still a fun and very unique experience. If interested check out a short recondition thread I posted on KLOV. Maybe something there may help someone else who may be trying to bring one back from scratch the same. Peace ✌

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/gottlieb-black-hole-recondition-thread.509158/

8A24AC2E-D630-4FD5-97DF-79223E231678 (resized).jpeg

I do, I'll PM you.

I installed Pascal's board and at first, I was confused. One, I have a few digits out on all the displays, so reading the menus at first was...challenging. Then I had the idiot moment where I can't get a game to start because it says "wait"....I guess I should remember to put THREE balls into the game. Bingo!

I am loving the menus and diagnostics. Two things you might know - when the ball goes to the lower level, nothing works, except the upkicker. I have brand new fuses, so not sure. Second, I didn't see an option in the Pascal board menu to test speech. Sounds, yes, but not speech?

Thanks!

Updated. Adjusted switch 33 that turns on the lower level, fixed. Also found the dips on the sound board weren't set right, so all sound and speech is great.

One last PF issue to find - the lower level right flipper is not working, but I need to trace switch and contacts. So good to get this back to life.

I am trouble shooting - I've done the pinwiki mod to change the lower playfield bulbs from 313s to 44/47s. I am not seeing them come on when playing the lower playfield. I also still have one flipper below not working.

What is the best way to check both? I have the Pascal board installed, FYI. Lamp check doesn't include the lower GI lights that I know of. I'm thinking it could be tied to the L relay, but I did test it's continuity for both when doing the mod. Suggestions?

I opened it up, after turning it on and triggering the second level, sans ball. Seem precarious to have both levels up, but just in doing that suddenly the right flipper is working. I have to lower it back and see if it stays fixed. I know I could have opted to leave the 313s, but it makes more sense to have them all the same type. The issue with the lower lights is still an issue. They aren't lighting. The other lights they are tied to (now) are getting the proper voltage, and the L relay is working, so not sure what's next? It's not the board, since I've got a Pascal 3-in-1.

Follow up fixed - the L relay just wasn't making good contact for those lights. Nice to have the 47s down there, all good!

Breaking news, I moved my Black Hole 15 feet to the other side of the garage in a massive reorganization....
..and it still Works !!!
Winning.

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That post rules

Last month I wouldn't have gotten that joke. Now, having just brought one back to life....ha!

Haha... I've bought games at TPF, drove them 1200 miles back to SoCal, set them up and they work perfectly.
I've moved games 3 feet, and they developed phantom problems, that are still not resolved....
F you Xenon!!!

Black Hole booting up and playing well is a small blessing.

I’ll try here too (cross posted to TSS):
My #blackhole was refurbished and all grounding mods done over 10 years ago, it’s been solid and trouble free ever since. Last week while playing a game, the upper drops failed to reset. I did a little checking and the fuse was blown, so I replaced it. Machine boots properly, and now when starting a game, the initial sound plays, but the second sound doesn’t play and the ball is not kicked out. Exactly the symptoms if there aren’t three balls in the trough. But with three balls in it, switch test shows switch 25 registering correctly. Is there anything else that would prevent a game from starting?

Tilt? Off the top. Then the kickout coil.

Coin door?

I had some really funky issues that were somewhat similar from a grounded coin switch.

Do the other diagnostic tests work okay? Maybe try shorting sw 25 with an alligator clip just to make sure it's not the switch itself acting flakey.

Got a Black Hole last week! I’m pretty decent shape overall but it definitely has its problems. A few lights out here and there. Had to solder one of the flipper leaf switches together because one of the leaves broke off, I’ll probably replace it but want to get an idea of what other parts I want to order. Seems like it’d be a good idea to replace the drain switch in the trough, looks like someone adjusted it pretty aggressively in the past and it’s a little flakey.
Big thing I’ll need help with now is what seems to be an all too common problem with this era: sound problems. It was acting as I’d expect for the first few days I had it but recently the sound board flakes out after the game is turned on for a bit. It’ll be fine for a while then it’ll get frozen on a single tone until I turn it off. Any ideas?

Also one of the headers for the score display is a little flakey (flakey seems like the keyword for this post heh): sometimes it’ll show garbage when I turn it on and is fixed if I poke the wires on the header. Can you replace these old style headers with modern headers that secure the connection better?

Congrats!! I love having the continuous bg sound while playing. I’d repin, also scrub the three potentiometers back and forth to insure good contacts. Dumb one, but check the dip switches. You didn’t say if you have speech or not? I did not know the header question. But the caps on the board can be another issue to check.

Speech is working. Pressing the sound test button results in a terrible beep sound, a terrible beep sound, then "complete."

the flakeyness continues, for better or worse. messed with the headers going to the sound board, tried reseating things, had the same results. eventually i said screw it for the evening and turned the non-speech pot down real low and went back to playing. after a game or so i heard the very quiet game sounds... so i turned it back up a little and everything was working for the rest of the evening. *shrug*

i'm maybe a fifth of the way done replacing the rubbers (i quite like the look of the dark blue titans) and cleaning everything. one of the previous owners did an... aggressive waxing and left crusty white wax residue everywhere. hitting the top plastics with some novus as well, they are cleaning up well. i may have to track down replacements for the plastics that are missing corners but that may be a tall order.

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the biggest defect in game play seems to be the big piece of plastic in the middle, mine (in addition to being cracked) doesn't sit flush with the rest of the play field and sometimes the ball will do some wonky things traveling over it. any advice for improving that? i was thinking i might be able to make a plastic gasket or something to try and get it more level but if there's a known method i'd love to hear it.

lastly i'd love to replace the glass, mine is scratched all to hell. this will be my first time replacing glass on a pin, can i just get the measurements and hit up a local glass shop for a piece of tempered glass at the right size or is there something not obvious that i need to consider?

I bought a new glass for mine. Nothing but the measurements needed. 90 USD locally

The sound may just be a bad potentiometer

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-21219

Take the old foam washers out and replace them with new. Tighten the screws until flush then stop.

1) The Pinball Resource for upper or lower plastic sets. He also sells the foam washer kits for the main window.

http://www.pbresource.com/Blackhole.html

2) Marco for the window itself, includes washers.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/D-21140-B

The factory playfields have alignment issues. I've heard complaints that reproductions actually reproduce the factory errors. If you were to buy a new playfield, would you rather the art moved to the holes, or the holes moved to the art? Or perhaps leave things as they are.
The concern for me is that I'd like to print overlays, hardtops, and playfields using the remastered art. If I am doing overlays and hardtops, I have to consider the alignment of the original playfield.
Your thoughts and opinions are welcome.

Fantastic!

BH PF art (resized).jpg

You shouldn't change the game play IMO, move the art to line up correctly.

Move the art to line up. I won’t buy overlays or hardtops, so I’d encourage you to do the playfields as original reproductions. Like CPR. But I thought Mirco had that license? I’d be interested to hear more.

Mirco did make them but no telling if it is / was exclusive. I get the feeling Steve Young would be happy to take more money.

That would be welcome news.

there looks to be what was a fuse holder housing that broke off at some point that held this fuse holder . i can't find a replacement for the original holder housing. is there a better modern replacement for the fuse holder ? would a surface mount fuse holder work?

Perhaps something like this will do ? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001144562333.html