Hello,
I have converted my BH from export to US.
Here is the procedure.
Material list :
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MARS GOD OF WAR backbox:
It is the only double backglass backbox whose position of the lamps around the glass is compatible.
On the way, we recover the cable that goes to the chase board (A11).
BackGlass:
The second is in repro, with mirror! Available in Europe, Belgium or netherland, don't remember excatly.
The first... More complicated! Not available in Europe.
The disc ... Easy to print on plastic.
Electronic-boards :
A11 Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board, for the chaser around the backglass.
Please note that resistor R13 must be 270 k ohms
A6 Sound / Speech Board, for sounds and voices.
Check that this is the version whose amplifier is supplied with 30v, produced by the A7 card.
You absolutely need the SC-01 and put the S1 and S2 eproms in the USA version.
668-S1.snd (2716): Checksum(272F)
668-S2.snd (2716): Checksum(316A)
A7 Sound / Speech Power Supply Board, to power the sound card.
Check that this is the version to power the amp at 30v.
Do not forget the cable that replaces the "cap" (A12P3) and which starts from the A12J3 connector to feed A7 thanks to A7J1.
A1 Control Board, the cpu what, nothing special except that it is necessary to place the US version eprom.
668-4.cpu (2716): Checksum(48DD)
Various :
F8 1A SLOW BLOW fuse for the talking sound card.
6v continuous motor with reducer to have 1.5 revolutions per minute.
Engine support.
Support for fixing the disc on the motor shaft.
Where to start ?
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For me there are three steps, the first concerns the electronic part to be done first,
the second being the adaptation of the backbox, the third being the painting.
So here we go, we have found the equipment, so we will start with the electronic cards:
First check that they work!
Remove the existing sound card A6 and fix the power supply card A7.
Put the connector on A7 which is fine.
Do not put anything on connector A6J1!!!
Do not forget to insert the F8 1A SLOW BLOW fuse.
Power up and check that the voltages are present (30v, +12V, -12v, 5V).
If everything is OK we turn off (As a reminder...) and we fix the new A6 card.
We change the game eprom on the cpu by the US version.
We turn on and ... That's it, we have a talking BLACK HOLE!
Already we can play and appreciate the differences in sound between the two versions.
We might as well stop there!
The part that I consider complicated: Redo the backbox.
I won't detail the painting part, I did it on mine, with homemade stencils.
Just a few details on the "mechanical" aspects.
So we take the backboxof the MARS, we remove the pivoting white plate and we keep it not far
because it will serve as a template.
We also remove the white plate from the backbox of the BLACK HOLE.
From this stage we can not go back!!!
It will be necessary to make some cuts and some holes at the level of the white plate of the BLACK HOLE
so that the bindings are compatible with those on the MARS backbox.
I can not explain better but when the 2 plates are side by side we can see what to do.
I didn't take any pictures at the time, too bad!
Once the cutouts have been adjusted and the opening system reassembled, the white plate of the
BLACK HOLE in the MARS backbox.
We will also be able to put the second backglass to mark the hole for the motor shaft
which will spin the disc.
This is also the time to fix the A11 board for the chaser, then power it up!
You have to find 5v and ground on a harness and 6v for A10J8 (Lamps).
Fix the motor.
Also the 6v will power the motor + ground.
For fixing the second backglass I opted for sliders like on the VOLCANO and BH US.
Indeed on the MARS the second backglass remains (sometimes badly) attached to the fixed part of the backbox.
On the other backbox, the backglass is fixed on the pivoting part (The frame what)
Then reassemble the backbox, disc, etc..
On this part it's standard!
And that's it!
Hope this is useful.