(Topic ID: 77057)

Black Hole Club... Members Only!

By mof

7 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,328 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by codered9394
  • Topic is favorited by 117 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_20210912_174211985 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210912_172305274 (resized).jpg
20210822_142230 (resized).jpg
FB0AB7EE-FE90-410D-A225-6284AD73F13A (resized).jpeg
225572841_144086054525861_3960588477680768695_n (resized).png
B3C96122-1082-4EB4-A75F-CADBE648F88E (resized).jpeg
000129AD-4BB6-455D-BBBE-F4C65DC1F650 (resized).jpeg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
20210529_135459 (resized).jpg
cc5a94f074dfeb9a36dbd547b4daeecb23d3406d (resized).jpg
183243055_477361359982264_4319987891811559207_n (resized).png
B94E7974-4EB5-48B2-86EF-12F48CC200D7 (resized).jpeg
EB4F6588-4028-4FEF-870D-3B1ECA4A7243 (resized).jpeg

There are 2328 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 47.
#2301 50 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

No menu buttons, you just use the test button in conjunction with the credit button.
All those coin door switches and the credit switch are tied to return 7 so since they all are dead you might try reseating the two connectors that come off it, laying under the tilt mech in the cabinet. Return 7 may have a broken connection in the wire bundle where it's attached to the door too, takes a lot of flexing. Check for continuity with meter of return 7 from the connector(s) to any of those switches. Just another thing to check first since you are stuck there. Try reseating A1J5 at the MPU board too for same issue.
[quoted image]

Nailed it. Found cut wires buried in the coin door harness. At least one of them leads to the test switch. After some tracing it looks like a prior owner cut the wires from the center coin switch and didn’t connect them back up. Weird! Thanks!!

Edit: yep, after connecting those wires together everything tested ok continuity to the connector. I did get into test mode and it seemed like it tried to start a game. I’ll mess with it more tomorrow and see what the other issues are. Thanks again!

FB0AB7EE-FE90-410D-A225-6284AD73F13A (resized).jpeg

#2302 50 days ago

Figured that was a good place to check because I have two iffy coin door wires on my own BH, to the coin slot lamps and the coin reject relay. Open the door just so and they can cut out but they both 'work' with the door closed. Someday I'll have to replace them, the insulation is fine but the wires have broken internally from flexing via the door opening and closing.

#2303 50 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Figured that was a good place to check because I have two iffy coin door wires on my own BH, to the coin slot lamps and the coin reject relay. Open the door just so and they can cut out but they both 'work' with the door closed. Someday I'll have to replace them, the insulation is fine but the wires have broken internally from flexing via the door opening and closing.

Note: I have had to fix the wiring harness to many Gottlieb games at the coin door.
The wires break at the point where the harness bends at the hinge.
In all, it causes erratic switch problems.

#2304 48 days ago

Getting really hard to find the edge type connector housings to replace the ones that are IDC and can't be repinned. PBR doesn't have them, GPE seems to be out of stock on all the ones I want and the Docent place has such bizarre ordering requirements I would rather not even try them. Any other suggestions people have found?

I may go to Plan B and carefully drill the boards, solder in regular molex headers like in a WPC game and use the standard .156 connectors.

#2305 48 days ago
Quoted from John_I:

Getting really hard to find the edge type connector housings to replace the ones that are IDC and can't be repinned. PBR doesn't have them, GPE seems to be out of stock on all the ones I want and the Docent place has such bizarre ordering requirements I would rather not even try them. Any other suggestions people have found?
I may go to Plan B and carefully drill the boards, solder in regular molex headers like in a WPC game and use the standard .156 connectors.

Docent Electronics has them. Also has the interconnect harness. I just ordered new connectors and an interconnect for my Black Hole restoration. It's really not that bad, text your order to the number provided and they sent you a text back with your total including shipping. Head to the post office and get a money order for the total and mail it to them. When they receive it they ship your order. It's a little weird but they are the only place that has them I think.

#2306 48 days ago

Does anyone have any black hole boards they want to sell? Boards from my machine have been gone for almost eight months with hopes of being repaired. No sign or update when they will be ready or if they are being worked on. Ive had game since january and would really like to play it. Anybody know of any please let me know.

#2307 48 days ago
Quoted from John_I:

Getting really hard to find the edge type connector housings to replace the ones that are IDC and can't be repinned. PBR doesn't have them, GPE seems to be out of stock on all the ones I want and the Docent place has such bizarre ordering requirements I would rather not even try them. Any other suggestions people have found?
I may go to Plan B and carefully drill the boards, solder in regular molex headers like in a WPC game and use the standard .156 connectors.

Try Pinball Life

#2308 46 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Docent Electronics has them. Also has the interconnect harness. I just ordered new connectors and an interconnect for my Black Hole restoration. It's really not that bad, text your order to the number provided and they sent you a text back with your total including shipping. Head to the post office and get a money order for the total and mail it to them. When they receive it they ship your order. It's a little weird but they are the only place that has them I think.

I checked everyone else and Docent is the only one who has them available. I decided to give them my business rather than making my own solution. It was a little strange the way you order, but I do notice they are under new ownership as of this month, so maybe that will change? Either way, I am glad they are there otherwise I think these parts would not be available at all.

2 weeks later
#2309 26 days ago

I'm back in after escaping.

20210822_142230 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#2310 5 days ago

Can someone help me and tell me what the original coil number is for the tube kicker. Right now I have a A-4893 and the ball comes up the tube so fast that it flies into the plastic and gets stuck. I know that there is a mod for a coil and end of stroke switch that allows you to adjust the kicker stroke. Looking to see what coil I have and where to go from here. Thanks

#2311 5 days ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Can someone help me and tell me what the original coil number is for the tube kicker. Right now I have a A-4893 and the ball comes up the tube so fast that it flies into the plastic and gets stuck. I know that there is a mod for a coil and end of stroke switch that allows you to adjust the kicker stroke. Looking to see what coil I have and where to go from here. Thanks

A-4893 is the correct original. You could try swapping in an A-1496, it's a little higher resistance, and you already have a lot of them in the game. Remember the pitch of the game also impacts how quickly the ball goes up the tube.

#2312 5 days ago
Quoted from CaffeineSlug:

A-4893 is the correct original. You could try swapping in an A-1496, it's a little higher resistance, and you already have a lot of them in the game. Remember the pitch of the game also impacts how quickly the ball goes up the tube.

Guess I'll check the pitch to rule that out. What's funny is that I was looking at the kicker unit and left the coil stop off by mistake. Speed of the ball was perfect coming out of the tube before I remembered I left it off. Only a few test with it off. I'll try swapping in a A-1496 if I have a extra

#2313 4 days ago

Just checked the pitch and looking at 5 to 5 1/2 degrees. Does anyone know what pitch is recommended on black hole? Looking through manual but not finding what pitch is suppose to be. Thanks

#2314 4 days ago

<<Right now I have a A-4893 and the ball comes up the tube so fast that it flies into the plastic and gets stuck>>

Which plastic, and gets stuck where?

5 & 1/2 or 6 degree pitch sounds good.

I have a Wms coil that is very close to the original coil, never fails with perfect delivery, I'm at slightly less than 5 & 1/2 degrees. You could also try tweaking the bracket with the rubber stop just a little or use a rubber stop that sticks out further to shorten the stroke of the kicker arm a tad. Funny that without the coil stop you got a slower, better kick... I woulda guessed it would be the opposite.

#2315 4 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Which plastic, and gets stuck where?

You can see the damage on the plastic that was there before I got the game. Got where I could fire it up yesterday and this problem started right off the first test. The ball will actually get on top of this plastic and get stuck between the plastic and glass. Good idea shorting the stroke up somehow. I will look at this tomorrow. Thanks

IMG_20210912_172305274 (resized).jpg
#2316 4 days ago

Cliffys eos mod is the way to go imo

#2317 4 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Cliffys eos mod is the way to go imo

This was a test with the glass on. You can see why the plastic is broke. It usually hits the edge or goes on top. Usually I here that the factory coil is not strong enough. What I'm seeing is just the opposite. Going to look at Cliffys mod so I can adjust to my liking if I can not resolve this issue. Going to look and try to shorten stroke if I can at a first attempt.

IMG_20210912_174211985 (resized).jpg
#2318 4 days ago

Hi,
There is a mod on pinwiki to set an EOS on the tube ball return coil. Often, the coil is not powerfull enough to return the ball upstairs so people change it for a bigger one... That may be the consequence you meet.

The mod replace the original A1496 by a flipper coil with an EOS, that allow you to adjust the power, enough to go up in one shot, but not too much to damage anything.

#2319 3 days ago

Looking for a replacement plastic disk for the back glass. The one I have has a serious bow that can't be removed. If anybody has had any luck straightening the disk please let me know.

#2320 3 days ago
Quoted from codered9394:

Looking for a replacement plastic disk for the back glass. The one I have has a serious bow that can't be removed. If anybody has had any luck straightening the disk please let me know.

have you tried an oven?

Really wish someone would reproduce these :/

#2321 3 days ago
Quoted from zacaj:

have you tried an oven?

The pinwiki talked about not being able to remove the bow. Looking at other options.

#2322 3 days ago
Quoted from codered9394:

The pinwiki talked about not being able to remove the bow. Looking at other options.

No reason not to try the oven method then if it's a completely lost cause.

#2323 3 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

No reason not to try the oven method then if it's a completely lost cause.

Ding Ding!

I'd get two flat sheets of glass and give it a go. Start at 110F and work from there. Heat up for 10 min, and then let cool to room temp.

Check. Still warped? bump 10-20 degrees and try again.

Oh and I'd flatbed scan that first in case the worst happens.

#2324 3 days ago
Quoted from radial_head:

No reason not to try the oven method then if it's a completely lost cause

Came in contact with a guy that has a heat press. Going to give it a go and report back

#2325 2 days ago

Does anyone know what causes those discs to bow in the first place? Seems pretty common, and consistent in presentation, but hard to understand how/why this would happen from normal use. The heat buildup from the bulbs can't be that bad... or does it happen after a while if the motor is disabled?

#2326 2 days ago
Quoted from goingincirclez:

Does anyone know what causes those discs to bow in the first place? Seems pretty common, and consistent in presentation, but hard to understand how/why this would happen from normal use. The heat buildup from the bulbs can't be that bad... or does it happen after a while if the motor is disabled?

Part of me assumes it's something to do with the motors dying and then the flashers heating up just a part of it.

#2327 2 days ago

If the warp always comes back after the oven method, it would be great if could use two sheets of glass that had just tiny bit of curve in them to make the disc go past the warp in the opposite direction, but when it cooled it might end up flat. When Piniwiki said it doesn't work who knows if that meant it has no effect, or just not enough because the warp always springs back a little bit.

#2328 2 days ago

Looking at mine the motor shaft sits out a little further than where the disk bolts two. If this is the case across the board the bolts would tend to pull on disk over time warping disk. Throw in the heat from lamps and the problem could be a greater problem. Some of these may be warping due to set being wrong

There are 2328 posts in this topic. You are on page 47 of 47.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside