New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 77057)

Black Hole Club... Members Only!


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,979 posts
  • 203 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by crazi
  • Topic is favorited by 103 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 424 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

6D33C1B4-99D5-4DCC-A5F6-107ABF478A48 (resized).png
3128F18E-AC99-4F98-8E61-237F77895930 (resized).jpeg
107107279_3251228911621348_5788038916088882976_n (resized).jpg
IMG_20200418_170635 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200418_170708 (resized).jpg
106361898_318312329328208_2967423390904807021_n (resized).jpg
2C337CCC-DB70-4270-A743-C8B42D0D024C (resized).jpeg
20200419_001532 (resized).jpg
20200419_001522 (resized).jpg
20200419_001522 (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Screen Shot 2020-04-09 at 10.22.00 AM (resized).png
IMG_20200409_081610.jpg
IMG_0496 (resized).jpg
IMG_1868 (resized).JPG
F55BDA71-B982-4640-B242-8301CF26C804 (resized).jpeg

There are 1979 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 40.
#1951 88 days ago

Thanks for all the input, I have set mine to 4.80 degrees (was going for 5 but couldn't face crawling under it again!!) which leaves the lower playfield at 6 and it seems to play well.

One other question, are you able to set the GI so it stays on instead of switching off in attract? I have a Pascal board in it.

#1952 87 days ago

So back to my lower pf pop bumpers blowing their fuse.
When I start a game it triggers 100 points on the lower pf and the fuses blow. I've checked the switches on the pop bumpers, they are fine. Not sure how to track this one down? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thx.

#1953 87 days ago

It's possible the pop bumpers are locking on when you start the game. Are the pop bumper driver boards original? My first thought would be to try swapping around PBDBs and see if the problem follows the boards.

#1954 87 days ago

They are original. And I thought about getting new ones and now I will. They're cheap enough. Thought it strange that both bumpers have seperate fuses. But yet, they are tied together. Both fuses pop. Ugh. I have breakers in there now for troubleshooting.

#1955 87 days ago

Well, it *might* have something to do with the pbdbs. Perhaps just disconnect them for the lower pops first and see if the fuses blow. Basically we want to rule out the wiring and coils (which i frankly don't suspect, but for completeness i like to rule out a much as possible). If the fuses don't blow, swap one of the suspect boards with a good one from the main pf and see if the problem moves with the board.

It's not necessarily a bad idea to replace those boards, my only concern is if the problem persists after you do. At very least that would rule out those boards, but you have enough working ones that you should be able to do that now.

Good call on the circuit breaker, btw. Been down that road enough times myself

#1956 86 days ago

Yeah, I'll report back in a few days once the boards arrive. Thanks much.

#1957 82 days ago

Im having a weird issue and I cant figure it out. My lower pf kicker cant get the ball to the upper pf anymore. I had Steves bracket installed, so I flipped it back to a brand new stock coil and that didnt help. Seems to be hitting the tube just fine, just not with enough force. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

#1958 82 days ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Anyone have any ideas?

I don't have the game infront of me, only the schematic. If you're sure everything is lining up properly (tube and trough wise), my initial thought is to test the under playfield transistor associated with the upkicker. Then test Q15 on the driver board. I doubt it would be Z4, but that's the route of that trace.

#1959 82 days ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Im having a weird issue and I cant figure it out. My lower pf kicker cant get the ball to the upper pf anymore. I had Steves bracket installed, so I flipped it back to a brand new stock coil and that didnt help. Seems to be hitting the tube just fine, just not with enough force. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

After having trouble with mine, i got Steve's bracket and installed w/ a flipper coil. The trick with that (given the coil and the driving circuitry is good) is to adjust the eos to stay closed for long enough in the stroke in order for it to give enough power to launch the ball all the way up. Just like adjusting an eos on a flipper, if it opens too soon you get a weak flip. Tbh that adjustment took me more times than i care to admit, opening both playfields to access the mech over and over

#1960 81 days ago

Anyone have advice for adjusting a pop spoon that has one dead spot. I replaced the spoon/switch, moved it back and forth under the skirt, bent the leafs, and I still have one spot that wont activate consistently. When I watch the the spoon and move the skirt by hand, every direction but one causes the leafs to make good contact.
Do you ever want to bend the spoon itself?

1 week later
#1961 74 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

Anyone have advice for adjusting a pop spoon that has one dead spot. I replaced the spoon/switch, moved it back and forth under the skirt, bent the leafs, and I still have one spot that wont activate consistently. When I watch the the spoon and move the skirt by hand, every direction but one causes the leafs to make good contact.
Do you ever want to bend the spoon itself?

If you replaced the spoon I wouldn't think you should need to, but shouldn't be a big deal to slightly tweak it so you get it to register evenly between the registering side and the non-registering side. Before that though, make sure you have the right switch gap, that the the pivot on the skirt is exactly centered on the spoon where if you press up on the spoon you see no movement of the pivot and that the indeed the spoon is slightly pressing up on the pivot at rest and not just floating under it.

#1962 71 days ago

I get the same issue with the old switch as the new. Must have spent 4 hours tweaking it. It looks to be in the center of the spoon, but when I move the skirt I can see it easily
Activates in most directions, but there are a few degrees where it barley moves the spoon. The gap is so minimal, if I reduce it further it will go off on vibrations.
I even tried a new skirt...

#1963 71 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

I get the same issue with the old switch as the new. Must have spent 4 hours tweaking it. It looks to be in the center of the spoon, but when I move the skirt I can see it easily

It's centered if you pull down on the spoon, then release it or even push upward on it, and you don't see the skirt pivot move.

#1964 69 days ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

So back to my lower pf pop bumpers blowing their fuse.
When I start a game it triggers 100 points on the lower pf and the fuses blow. I've checked the switches on the pop bumpers, they are fine. Not sure how to track this one down? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thx.

New pop bumper boards have fixed this issue. Thanks all.

#1965 63 days ago

Ok I just joined the club,
I am pumped!

I ran out of new pinballs. Is the ball baron Ninja chrome Pinball a good choice ?
3128F18E-AC99-4F98-8E61-237F77895930 (resized).jpeg

#1966 63 days ago
Quoted from TronGuy:

Is the ball baron Ninja chrome Pinball a good choice ?

Proably. No mags in Black hole.
That said; I find it very hard / impossible to determine if a ball is chrome or standard carbon.
If you ever have both mag and magenetless games; its best note have both in your possession - as it way to easy to mix them into the wrong machine.

1 week later
#1967 56 days ago

My new pinballs arrived so I figure maybe
I’ll give a quick wax to the playfield while I have the glass off.

Nothing wrong with a little carnauba wax huh?

#1968 51 days ago

I recently found 3 of those big circle plastics for the backbox (used). Going to hang one on my wall for sure but seems they dont repro them. Is there a demand for these? Not sure how one would go missing or break? Or just cool wall hangars? Or should I take them to a printer and make some repros?

#1969 51 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I recently found 3 of those big circle plastics for the backbox (used). Going to hang one on my wall for sure but seems they dont repro them. Is there a demand for these? Not sure how one would go missing or break? Or just cool wall hangars? Or should I take them to a printer and make some repros?

You mean the spinner that mounts to the motor?

I could use one if so, mine is worn in a few places

#1970 51 days ago

I will dig them out and get pics. Not sure it they are better?

#1971 51 days ago

I'd also be interested. I messed mine up when I was retrofitting a new motor.

#1972 51 days ago

Ok cool. Now to remember where I stuck them lol!

#1973 47 days ago

Hello everyone, just wanted to share a simple idea that added a lil flare. Just used a couple different size drill bits to remove paint on underside of plastic in places for some lit stars, already painted in white.

6D33C1B4-99D5-4DCC-A5F6-107ABF478A48 (resized).png
#1974 41 days ago

Top repair tip:

Too many balls in shooter lane, ball ending early, ball never ending.... count the # of balls in the game and make sure it's 3, not 4

Also I found 2 balls underneath the top left plastic! How did they get there??

3 weeks later
#1975 14 days ago

So the upper pf ball lock will sometimes lock the ball out when not supposed to
It seems like it’s a vibration vs a specific other switch being active. Is that just not enough contact on that leaf switch. If the contacts sep with a ball locked it will eject I tvink ?

#1976 13 days ago

Working out some bugs with my Black Hole pinball machine. Had just got done tracking down and repairing a dreaded GI short on the main play field, and decided to do some upgrades and bulletproofing while I had the play field removed. After my “ attempts” at bulletproofing and upgrades, I seem to have a couple of issues:

1. Right Side Flipper Issue: Currently the right side flippers are not operational when the flipper button is depressed. However is an significant arc / flash / spark that I can see (through ball guide crease) at the flipper switch — when pressed., and there is no flipper action. I found the one (1) solenoid had the coil diode backwards, but corrected it. Hopefully that did not cause board trouble. When the ball goes down to the lower playfield, the lower playfield right flipper is operational. It appears the U relay is okay (the contacts show normally closed as per the schematics ). Has anyone ever had this sparking issue at the flipper switch? Any suggestions?

2.) Up Kicker Not Strong Enough: The infamous up kicker strikes again. There was a A-1496 coil installed which was working great. Again I was going to upgrade and continue my bulletproofing (Bulletproofing = upgrading the power transistor and adding the pull up resistor, installed and wired a pop bumper driver board to prevent burn out/ meltdown / overheating, and upgraded the coil to the A-4893 coil). The pop bumper driver board was a suggestion found on Pin Lizards Black Hole / Haunted House Club manual. I am stumped why the up kicker lost the strength / power to shoot the ball up the ramp. Defective power transistor? Suggestions?

Going to cross post this over at System 89 Club as well. If anyone could assist or provide some guidance or insight it would be greatly appreciated. I am so close to getting this machine running so I can enjoy it. I have learned so much, but still have so much more to learn. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

1 week later
#1977 6 days ago
Quoted from Snowtrooper:

2.) Up Kicker Not Strong Enough: The infamous up kicker strikes again. There was a A-1496 coil installed which was working great. Again I was going to upgrade and continue my bulletproofing (Bulletproofing = upgrading the power transistor and adding the pull up resistor, installed and wired a pop bumper driver board to prevent burn out/ meltdown / overheating, and upgraded the coil to the A-4893 coil). The pop bumper driver board was a suggestion found on Pin Lizards Black Hole / Haunted House Club manual. I am stumped why the up kicker lost the strength / power to shoot the ball up the ramp. Defective power transistor? Suggestions?

I highly recommend replacing the upkicker with a flipper coil and EOS switch. You can contact Cliffy to have the bracket made up. I reached out to him a few months ago and he was able to get one out to me in about a week. The EOS switch will help prevent the coil from getting fried if the transistor fails and it can be adjusted to get the kicker strength more consistent. You should then run a smaller 2A fuse in F17 for additional protection.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Black_Hole#Black_Hole_Ball_Lift_Kicker_Mod

#1978 23 hours ago

Hi - got a Black Hole coming in next week which I need to repair and restore

Does anyone have a "High Res" pic of the Topper "front on" view?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 1,099.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
$ 499.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 25.00
Magazines/books
Just Pinball
$ 339.00
$ 6.00
Rubber/Silicone
Ramp-O-Matic
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 159.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 1,000.00
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 119.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 67.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
$ 47.00
Playfield - Other
Cento Creations
$ 19.99
Electronics
PinballElectronics.com
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
There are 1979 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 40.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside