Show us a picture of the sound/speech board!

Game plays fine. I've attempted to do my DD by reading forum posts and re-reading the Flippp website. Perhaps there is an issue with my board?

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I would check the dip switches on the cpu board.
Some switches are to remain off/on.

I see a bunch of old caps I would not rule out.

There are no dip switches on the Pascal PI-80 board as all options are selected through the internal menu section using the test and credit switches on the coin door.

The photo of your S/S board is too low res for me to really tell you much. I'd need something much higher resolution than that to be able to determine anything but here are some ideas:

•Triple check all your input voltages to the sound board, especially the 12vdc+ input on Pin 1 and the 5vdc+ input on Pin 5.
•Dip switches 5-6 control the background sounds and speech respectively. Fiddle with those individually. However this wouldn't explain how some sounds are missing or out of place.
•The ROMs don't look original or appropriate for the game (or at least from how I can tell from the incredibly low-res photos). Are you sure the sounds that are present are the proper sounds for the game?
•Caps could be bad, but I feel like the caps would normally make the board work or not work in totality, rather than individual sounds going out, but I am absolutely not an expert on these.

I had a Black Hole / Haunted House board I recapped to full function, made some very strange noises when it first arrived... So its not a works/not works situation sometimes.

Just to be sure: i saw you said you re-pinned all the connectors, does that include the edge connector to the sound/speech board?

Here's my guess: there's 4 signals running from the Driver board to the sound/speech board--the data the sound board processes into sounds. They run from the driver board at A3J5 pins 1,5,6, and 7 over to the sound board at A6J1 pins 8,9,11, and 12. If any of those signals are missing or intermittent, that might explain the incorrect sounds playing. Also, follow the wires that run to the sound board, i could swear some of the wires go through an additional connector somewhere, but i may be wrong. It's been a while now, but i recall having an issue with the background sounds dropping out randomly on my BH and it wound up being a wire going to the sound board that was pinched under the wooden insert panel (the panel behind the backglass you swing open to access the boards). You can check for continuity for each wire from the driver board connector to the sound board connector w/ your meter. Here's a diagram showing the connections. As far as i know it's Sound 1,2,4, and 8 I'm talking about--sound 16 appears to be coming from elsewhere, perhaps the mpu? Not sure if that line is utilised in this game though...

Good luck!
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There ya go. I trust this man.

Also I noticed that the 6532 chips on the sound board have been socketed at some point (in addition with the ROMS not looking original). There's a lot of things that could be causing this. Carefully make sure al your chips are seated properly and carefully reseat them if needed.

Sound 16 also comes from the driver board but utilizes an lamp driver rather than coming from another SN7404N. That signal then travels all the way into the game via A12P/J4 and back up to the backbox and to the A6J1 connector. (I had a similar issues a while back and was hoping that tracing and fixing this wire would fix my problem but I actually had a bad 6532 on the mpu). Sound 32 is not used on this game.

Also don't forget to follow the test procedure as described in the manual.

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Thank you for replying. I did repin the Sound Board edge connectors. I will start tracing and replace any other connections I find. I will definitely leave the cap replacement to a pro. I have done some soldering but not enough to be confident on this one.

Replace those old electrolytic caps.

I had similar issue with no sound on Caveman.
I replaced caps on the S/S power board and the S/S board. (those orange ones definitely have to go)

While shopping my bh I carelessly sparked the left transformer. Of course everything went dead.
I took out the line fuse and display fuse.
I get all laMps now, sound but no power to any solenoid. Could that have caused a board problem by doing that as well?

Anyone have the problem where when playing on the lower field, when the ball passes through the flippers it just sits there. Game is hungup. Is there a fuse for that one solenoid before the kick up solenoid?

Is it getting caught on the gate, or that VUK?

Not sure if it but there is this

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Have sound but no speach. Newer mpu and sound board. Sound chips are good, tested. Here is a pic of both boards. Am I missing a dip switch somewhere?

Any help is much appreciated.

Thank you
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what is a VUK? It stops where that wireform is before the kick up solenoid

where are fuses F17-F22?

Those fuses may be under the lower playfield. If the ball is getting stuck at the gate, the coil that opens the gate may not be working for some reason (blown fuse, perhaps). Or it's possible the switch next to the gate may not be detecting the ball sitting there.

VUK means Vertical Up Kicker, that's the solenoid-driven assembly that launches the ball up the tube from the lower to upper level.

Yes. There is a set of fuses for the lower of. Underneath it. This machine is a bigger to work on!

Are you not having speech at all? Even in the test mode? Is the SC01 present? Fred makes good boards from my experience so I'd your eyeglasses on the connector pins. Make sure all your input voltages are good. The speech chip runs on 12vdc+... but so does a lot of stuff on that board. Your dip switches look correct to me though.

What would cause my 2 bottom pf pop bumpers to keep blowing their fuses? I love this machine but it is a bear to work on!

This has a lot of useful info in it. Hope it helps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-hole-pop-bumper-intermittently-blowing-fuse

Thank you. I will check it out.

Does anyone in here have some inside info on when the Shay Group will have repro backglasses done for this title? I hate looking at bare bulbs!

It’s been on their coming soon list for two years now? Fathom has been on that list for three years? I emailed and called him several times about a year ago. He never responded to me. I lucked out and picked up an inner backglass at TPF last year for my restore.

I emailed them about the BH and HH backglasses and they said that "both are in the works". HH was just released so maybe BH isn't that far behind?

This group of wires came off? There is a metal prong sticking out next to it. Is that where it was solder to?

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Anyone ever had intermittent 10-point scoring on the lower PF read-out when the ball has never gone down there?

You must have a switch sticking or something.

Possibly a switch gapped too closely on the lower playfield? I would check the switches behind some if the rubbers on the lower playfield.

I will check...... Thanks!

Total bummer IIRC all the 10 point switches are tied together. Feel lucky that you're able to isolate it to the lower playfield. You'll have to check quite a few switches underneath the plastics.

It's way more of pain in the ass if you have this issue on the upper playfield like I did.

I have the speech/sound board out. I have already replaced the caps on it.
Is there anything else I should replace before I put it back in? The 40 pin sockets?

Here's my BH, had it since the late 90s I think. Only game I've owned where I decided that 2X-bright warm white LEDs 'worked' for the GI because the pf, plastics and bg are so dark. Plus on this game none of the pf GI bulbs are visibly exposed from the player's perspective. I stuck with the regular flasher bulbs behind the disc, the bg chaser 44s and of course the higher-voltage GI lamps that light up the lower pf from above. And blue LEDs under the blue inserts and some colored ones behind the backglass 'Gottlieb' and the planets. Added one GI socket by the right lower flipper, just seemed like there should've been one there.
There's is simply NOTHING like playing three balls on two playfields, one which is below the other *and* upside down, a truly one-of-a-kind pinball experience. You almost need an extra set of eyeballs

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... also a couple of other small lighting mods I forgot about - 1. added wired a top-side GI socket under the astronaut plastic by the exit tube, it looks much better than factory where only the bottom half of him is lit up. 2. I cut out some some small cardboard discs, punched a small hole in the middle and slid them over the white 2X/3X/4X/5X bonus 44s, pushed the sockets back into position and slid the discs up the lamps and all the way up against the playfield, and added three white discs to the three hi-voltage lower pf GI lamp sockets that are there so they mainly shine downward. This keeps the bonus lamps from getting all that yucky stray light when the lower pf is active, those blaringly bright GI lamps can practically make them appear lit when they aren't.

I put a little extra light in mine with some star post LEDs. I started out with a few and then ended up with about 12 I think. It gives the playfield artwork a bit more visibility and the warm LEDs keep that classic feel. Cool LEDs under the plastics, cool blue in the pops, warm at the top inlanes and start posts.

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Note, my pic up there is before I did that mod, so you can see how cruddy those 'unlit' bonus X inserts look without remedying the stray light.

The upper most right flipper has connections to some type of transistor.
Does the power go through that component? That is the only flipper (or mech) that doesn’t work. I rebuilt them all, but missed something on that one
Thanks

Looking at my playfield underside in raised position, a red/white wire on the upper right flipper's leftmost flipper lug is connected to the metal frame of the power transistor above it which is for powering some other pf coil, but those transistors are not involved in powering the flippers.
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The jumper is to supply the ground to the transistor and that is it.

I checked I have voltage to the lugs
If that transistor is bad , would the flipper be dead?

No, not even if you cut that wire. Make sure your wiring is correct to the flipper coil, that the diode is good and you don't have an open winding in the coil.

1) are both right flippers not working?
1a) ground is green, and is made to all flippers on the anode side of the diode.
1b) black,orange,orange wire is to the cathode side of the diode.
2) if top right flipper is dead but bottom right flipper works then problem is in top right flipper.
2a) check EOS switch contact on top flipper... is it making contact/ does it have continuity?
2b) does the flipper stay in an up right position when manually raised and the flipper button is
pressed?
3) if both flippers do not work, check U relay contact normally closed...[033 & 044]
blk,org,org & blk, yel, yel.
3a) does bottom right flipper work?
if yes then, cabinet wiring is fine.
if no then, cabinet wire has continuity problem.

Thanks for the responses
It is just the upper right flipper. The lower and all others work.( all worked prior to rebuild too)
The upper moves freely and does not stay up when held and the button pressed

It seems that either the coil is bad, diode bad, no continuity eos, Incorrect wiring on lugs.

Flipper issue solved. It was the eos switch..

I had rebuilt all the pops, and now 2 of them the rod stops half up after it pops. If another coil fires the vibration causes it to go back up. I turned off the power when it happened as well and it doesn’t make a difference so guessing it’s not an electrical issue.
Could it be when I put the coil and plunger back together the angle it sits in the mech isn’t right and that’s causing resistance.

Does anyone have a recommendation or actually know what the pitch of the main playfield should be on black hole? Can't seem to find it in the manual.

I'm not sure what the recommended pitch is supposed to be, I think it's more about your preference.

With 27" front and back legs, you'll only able to get about 5°, maybe 5.2° with front feet tight to the legs and back feet extended all the way down. My family and I didn't think it was as fun to play (upper playfield too slow and lower too fast). I bought some 32" back legs and have the back feet tight to the legs and extended the front feet up to 7° and it plays at a faster pace on the upper playfield and slightly slower on the lower.

This is pretty informative. I think pitch is pretty subjective on most pins. HOWEVER. I always set the pitch for HH and BH I always set the pitch so that both the lower and main playfield sit at the same pitch. I’ve often thought about modding the lower playfield brackets so that the lower playfield is steeper when the main playfield is steeper yet.

Are you sure they aren't getting stuck basically all the way down and it may only appear they are partially down? If it's the former, I had the problem of them getting stuck down from residual magnetism and fixed it with several layers of adhesive copper foil stuck onto the coil stops where the plungers hit but people have used other things glued to the stop like a non-magnetic washer or slug, or you can buy new pop bumper frames.r I supposed drill out the old stops and put new ones that are for pop bumper applications and that bolt on but not sure that would guarantee a fix since the whole frame can have residual magnetism.

You are correct. My thinking that it was Partially stuck was bc I mentally pictured the ring being lower at full activation. It must be a magnetic issue because I switched out a new plunger and it fixed one.
Thanks.