Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981I totally don’t know what they call the “tsb” or recalls in the pinball world but
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Pop_bumper_problems
Big daddy enterprises sells upgrade/rebuild kits to diy too.
I love pascals version as it has a test button and leds to verify power
Every single one of the coil stops in my BH is magnetized. I didnt want to shell out the money to replace every one, so I went to hobby lobby and got a sheet of copper. Cut out a small circle and inserted it above the stop. Was kind of a pain, but works great.
You can add the leds to the pbdb yourself. I did that on all of mine. It was originally Steve's mod. Makes a quick check for troubleshooting super quick.
After over a year of owning it, I finally rolled over the score on Black Hole with a score of 1.483,480! Sadly once you go over 999999 it doesn’t register any higher and all the bonuses and such go back to zero to save it as a high score anymore. Time for a pascal board and 7 digit leds?
Quoted from topkat:does this sling give any points. Mine kicks but doesn’t give me nada?
[quoted image]
I just checked mine. It scores zero points.
Thanks for checking. Was surprised that something you hit gives a goose egg. But more glad nothin needs fixing
Quoted from topkat:Thanks for checking. Was surprised that something you hit gives a goose egg. But more glad nothin needs fixing
Wow... I always thought mine messed up but never got around to looking into it. Nice to know it is not supposed to give points, but I agree it is sorta odd. 
What do you think of leds in the infinity lights ( the ones around the edge). I was told it makes a bad reflection on playfield?
Quoted from topkat:What do you think of leds in the infinity lights ( the ones around the edge). I was told it makes a bad reflection on playfield?
I have alternating blue and white LEDs in mine. I think it looks great. All blue seems over powering.
I have leds in mine and I want to go back to incandescent because leds don’t fade so it’s very much a strobe effect instead of a smooth wave like the original
Quoted from jboner1058:I have leds in mine and I want to go back to incandescent because leds don’t fade so it’s very much a strobe effect instead of a smooth wave like the original
time for an LED OCD board for gottlieb infinity lights...
Quoted from topkat:Does it give you any issues with the reflection off glass? Are they frosted ?
Thanks
My LEDs are Ablaze 1 flat tops non frosted from Pinball Life. I think everything will reflect on the playfield glass but that is part of the charm. It is personal preference. As is, I only have LEDs in the infinity lights and a few choice controlled sockets. All my general illumination is old school incandescent. It only costs a few bucks to try it out. Give it a shot and see if you like it.
Quoted from zacaj:The gate to save the ball. Are there holes in the side of that post? If so you just need the gate wireform
No I didn’t see any holes, maybe it’s upside down I’ll check later. Anyone have a pictures of this gate and how it attaches? Thanks!
Could anyone tell me where I might get a sound board or have mine work on or what i might check In a Gottlieb Black hole. I try a New Driver New Sound board and the wiring on the Power board Still no sound. Sometime when you turn off the machine you can here the sound speech. The sound board is very clean. Thanks
Try reaching out to Pascal Janin at https://www.flippp.fr/index.php?lg=en
If you are a tech titan, you can find endless info on this machine and other SYS 80 games and fix these boards yourself. If you are like me, life is to short to get frustrated and I’m too dumb to get too deep into the tech, so I have had great luck with Pascal’s boards. He is very nice and very responsive should you have questions.
Quoted from pacman11:No I didn’t see any holes, maybe it’s upside down I’ll check later. Anyone have a pictures of this gate and how it attaches? Thanks!
As requested.
20180821_193251 (resized).jpgThanks guys, anyone know if these are available anywhere? If not I'll have to some how make my own..
Quoted from PinZig:Pinball resource has new ones, or you can have my old one. You musta missed my post above yours. Pm me if interested
Thanks just called them and PR does have them..
You guys ever have any issues with the ball getting stuck in the lower playfield area? Mine will get stuck in this area, everything is working but the lower area seems to be not tilted enough because it rolls so slow to the switch and the switch push it back and the ball doesn’t continue through to the kick out solnoid.
73B93885-7899-488C-903A-87949C6427DC (resized).jpegNever had that issue. Are both sides of the lane touching the pinball? It kind of looks like it in your pic (but then again its hard to see). They shouldn't be if they are.
It works about half the time, ball rolls so slow that it reaches the switch and the switch pushes it back and when the solnoid activates the ball isn’t in the correct position. Almost think the switch needs to be adjusted down some so the ball rolls over the switch better..
I’m selling my pascal all in one board for a sys80. I’ll list it on the market shortly, but wanted to give a heads up if anyone is interested. I used it once, then pulled it out as I got my stock boards refurbed.
I’m having an issue with my black hole I just got. It is registering a slam tilt all the time. Could you guys give me some ideas on where to look first? Thanks in advance!
Quoted from Lemank:I’m having an issue with my black hole I just got. It is registering a slam tilt all the time. Could you guys give me some ideas on where to look first? Thanks in advance!
The slam tilt switch is a dedicated input to A1J5-10 from ground, and is normally closed. If that connector isn't making good contact, or the switch is dirty, or any of the other connectors in the middle are bad, it'll think it's slam tilted. Many people just put a jumper on the MPU board to disable this completely, bypassing the connector
Hey guys! Just picked up a super nice BH, and I’m considering pulling the Mylar. There’s some minor bubbling I’m not happy with.
I’ve pulled Mylar before on F-14 (freeze method), but I wanted to know if anyone has pulled BH mylar and if there’s anything I need to be wary about. Should I be nervous about excessive paint getting pulled up? Thx
9E9CF789-352E-4286-8221-78600633602C (resized).jpegPascal all-in-one board FS
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/69132
Pulling Mylar is always challenging on old games. It comes down to personal preference I think. On an old game like your Black Hole I prefer the slow and very messy Goo Gone method. I feel it is less violent. I did a Caveman that way recently and didn’t have any issue with pulling paint.
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Pulling Mylar is always challenging on old games. It comes down to personal preference I think. On an old game like your Black Hole I prefer the slow and very messy Goo Gone method. I feel it is less violent. I did a Caveman that way recently and didn’t have any issue with pulling paint.
Okay, thx. My primary concern is pulling up the paint.
Quoted from patrickvc:I’d like to rejoin the club someday soon and Mylar removal would be on my list of to dos. Let us know how it goes
What Mylar are you guys trying to pull?
Mylar removal done. Only took 5 minutes and about a can and a half of freeze spray.
No paint loss, which was my primary concern. Even the inserts survived totally intact. Some weird touchups by the pop bumpers, but I may clearcoat down the road.
Now the real work begins... removing the residual glue. That will take hours, but I’m happy about the results so far.
18FAB401-CA0E-4FCE-ABE8-EC6E8C0A6800 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgDid you replace the mylar? or are you planning on clear coating?
I'd be concerned with the paint in this area if you aren't doing either.
I removed the Mylar and clear coated in my Worklog:
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?s=2f47687b63907db92dbd73b38ea1795b&p=1327848&postcount=7
Quoted from Zitt:Did you replace the mylar? or are you planning on clear coating?
I'd be concerned with the paint in this area if you aren't doing either.
I removed the Mylar and clear coated in my Worklog:
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?s=2f47687b63907db92dbd73b38ea1795b&p=1327848&postcount=7
Hey Zitt,
Thanks for the link. I was thinking the same thing, and I’ll likely clearcoat in the next couple of months. The Mylar didn’t pull up any paint, but I did lose some insert edges while removing the glue.
I’m not too concerned about wear, but I would like to touch up a few noticeable spots, especially under the pops. Once that’s done, I’ll clearcoat.
I just bought some of your buttons, too. Green for the start and blue for the flippers. Next project is lighting those up.
Quoted from Mudflaps:I just bought some of your buttons, too. Green for the start and blue for the flippers. Next project is lighting those up.
I was wondering what was up with that weird order.. 
Too bad I don't have any more of the White Flipper Button mods available.... that's what I used on my machine. Actually, now that I think about it; I used red with red buttons to match what was Gottlieb stock.
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Elkhorn, WI
Ottawa, ON