I realize that the last post in this post was a year ago, but maybe I can get some answers.

I picked up a pretty nice black belt and I'm almost done shopping and fixing it up.

One issue I have is insert decals, were they ever reproduced?

And what the hell is the bulb that faces the relay under the playfield (top right if the playfield is vertical)?

Thanks,
Joe

Thanks Becker, I follow freeplay's post (also had a freeplay high speed ramp) . Fortunately my ramp is crack free.
The only thing I need is a few insert decals and looks like that didn't happen and isn't going to.

I'm attempting to fix my last problems on my black belt.
Bought and installed a new mushroom target for the gentle touch thing in the shooter lane.
When it's installed the switch is open, the diode (in circuit) reads the same as other I tested to compare.
The capacitor on the switch was broken off, I resoldered it.
The switch didn't work before or after I reconnected the capacitor.
The blades of the switch show continuity when I close them.

Where do I look now?

I'd guess the mushroom that was there was broken for really long time before I fixed it.

Also, the right flipper seems a little weak
And sometimes the kicker that kicks the ball to the reversed flipper is weak too.

Thoughts?

Thanks LTG,
So after a quick look, both coil stops are very loose and have mismatched screws. I'll take them physically apart tomorrow.
Maybe I have to stop over thinking things.

As for the switch, on the J4 connector of the board, I have continuity on the white/brown (At least i think it's brown) wire all the way to the switch, the black wires traced to 2 other switches that function and have continuity.
On the white/brown, I still have continuity on the header pin if I check with the connector pulled out a little and check to the pin itself.

Nope, no continuity.
Which parts typically fail on a bally board for a switch.
I can solder/desolder, have an fr300.
I try to avoid doing so with chips, but transistors, caps etc. i'm good with.
I have the book, still acclimating to reading it, but I have fixed system 11 and wpc boards before.
If I don't figure out the book, I usually look at the board backlit and follow circuits checking for continuity and comparing like item values with similar items.
Thanks for the help,
Joe

I think I misunderstood what you wanted me to do.
I will retest and get back to you.

So i'm 100% certain the wires are solid all the way back to the connector.
While I don't get continuity when I read across them at the board connector, I do get a reading on the meter when I close the switch (like 1100 or so), which is the same reading I get when I try it with any other working switch.

Took the kicker coil stop off, it's mushroom a little bit, but it's worse that whoever did it used a 5/16 wood screw and a panhead wood screw cut shorter, no wonder it won't say in place.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-6803-black-belt-switch-matrix-problem#post-5454692

I guess I'd rather it be my dumb mistake than a real problem.
Thanks for the help LTG

Are all 3 kickers supposed to fire any time you drop the ball in one of them?

Let me clarify my last post, I did some more messing with the machine.
Seems like all three kicker switches trigger the right kicker no matter what.
But not the other way around.

Also in the coil test, as soon as the solenoid expander light turns and it gets to that section of the test, the right kicker turns on, and stay on, until the test passes the expander section.
Which will probably explain why the coil that was in it, was on the verge of being melted.

So from what I can tell any time that expander relay is physically active, the right kicker gets activated.

Any clues?
Maybe the expander board is shot? Sometimes it doesn't work so great and I get a little buzz out of it.
But I'd hate to just throw $50 at it mindlessly.

I feel like I fix one issue, create another every time I work on this machine.
So at some point in my testing and work the top left 3 flashers stuck on (ones on the playfield).
Had a tip102 on hand so last night I swapped it out at q19.
Fixed the lights staying on problem.
Also doesn't appear that triggering any kicker, kicks the right one anymore.
Although it does still stay locked on in coil tests.
Now another problem showed itself.
A whole bunch of switches including every stand up target in the center, all try and reset the left bank of drop targets any time you set one off.

Edit: So I messed with it before work (which I should not be doing).
If I disconnect the right kicker, everything works fine (except for that kicker).
It's a new coil, old one was crispy.
For the hell of it, I changed the diode, same result.

Also according to the manual, the top left bright lights that I had an issue with and associated with the right kicker.

Well, I put the old coil back in the right kicker and everything works fine.
This is the original (although the one installed in my machine had 3 prongs). https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AN-26-1200
An AN26-1200, which I guess was discontinued and replaced by AO 26-1200, which is what I used.

I did order the expander relay, it just sounds and works awful after a couple kicks in a row. Not to mention, the plastic cover is broken off.

Now I have the left and right lamp arrows out.
Little more adjustment on the mushroom and maybe I can play a game with the glass on.

Anyone know the part number on the gentle touch switch?
Mine is pretty flimsy and after operating fine a few times, gravity takes over and it just doesn't stay in place.

I'm thinking this one should work (but out of stock at marcos)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A1-155