Hey, I see the gi works!! That's a good start
Congrats on your project find .
Wax on -wax off , young grasshopper ( loved the Karate Kid)
JP

Gentle touch score very much...quirky game with super cool artwork.

Love this game! Grew up playing it in my parents basement where it still gets love at family gatherings. Love themusic progression through the belts. Really gets exciting when you wrap around to double yellow and beyond!

Such a unique weirdo game. Love it; Enjoy!

Fun game, but it gets repetitive after a while.

Here ya go bro image.jpeg

Looking for a backglass if anyone knows of one. Thanks!

You ever figure this all out?

I think they are on ipdb.com

If anyone parts one out I'll take the ramps and plastics

I'm throwing some picture out of my Black Belt as it get cleaned and shopped. Adding LEDs really make the colors pop. More pictures to come as I progress.

If anyone has ramps or plastics, please let me know. I pay above average rates for needed parts.

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Beautiful!

I like what you did with the lights. I've never put LEDs in before. Do you just tie them into where the old bulb was? I just got a new ramp today. It's in way better shape than my original.

Also I noticed your playfield was different. Do you know if yours had a new one or the original?

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Black Belt owners! Do any of you experience an intermittent weak upper-right kick out? It's reproducible by activating the right ramp switch immediately before the ball is kicked. The kick out is weak one to three times then the fourth time it kicks fine.

Three of us have the issue on another thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-solenoid-expander-weak-right-kickback

Looking to pool resources and drill-down this odd issue or determine if it's a design flaw in the game. This 6803 does utilize the SEB (solenoid expander board).

Thanks.

Yes -- my parents machine exhibits this as well, haven't noticed a pattern but back in the day (20 years ago) it used to work much better. Never had time to investigate, I thought the transistor was getting flakey or a weak solder connection over time?

That's interesting. There are four of us with the same odd issue.

I just played another at the Ann Arbor show -- same issue. Seems universal

I am completely stumped on a Black Belt switch handling issue - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-black-belt-switch-insanity

If anyone has experienced this before or has any clue as to why I might be seeing this behavior after all the troubleshooting I've done, I'd love to know your ideas. Thanks for looking!

Try switching U7 and U8.

Hi-ya! (See what I did there?) I just picked up a Black Belt last night, a local Craigslist find, so I'm excited to join the club. It powers & boots but won't coin up, though the owner claimed he had it working via the keypad thing a while back. I haven't had a chance to do any troubleshooting yet, and probably won't for a few weeks (a few other projects to finish up), but hopefully you few fellow owners are still out there -- I'll be karate chopping your inboxes for help if I need it!

First try doing a RAM reset:

Hit "Test", to enter operator mode.
Hit "A" until "Feature Options" is displayed.
Hit Enter.
It will say "Reset Factory Is".
Hit 6, then 5, then Enter.
Hit "Game" to return to attract mode. You'll know it worked because it will take longer than usual to reach attract mode, and the display will flicker slightly as the computer clears the memory (this is normal)

Thanks for this tip! I'll get back to you in a few weeks (once the higher priority stuff is out of the way) to let you know if it worked.

Okay, I had a few minutes to get this machine hooked up just now, and I was trying to set it up for free play and also try that Ram reset that you suggested, but both of these actions rewrite the use of the 5 button -- and it seems that none of the buttons in the middle two columns on the keyboard are responding. Here is a picture, am I missing a wire on the connector at R5 or something?

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Try unplugging and reseating the connector on the keypad. Also do this on the MPU in the backbox, connector J3 (cabinet switch) on the bottom. It is common for these connectors to corrode and cause intermittent connections and you can temporarily solve it with a reseat.

Thanks. Tried this and got second column working, but still not the third. Will try a few more times.

For what it's worth, I did manage to go into bookkeeping and tell it there were 3 credits on it -- which DID allow me to start and play a game, yay! Someone said this game has ugh and oomph sounds? All I hear are ding-beeps.

Checked the wires on J3 and it looked like some were a little loose, so I pushed them back in a little. Now the third column registers -- except it thinks it's column 2!

That sounded like a short to me ... Sure enough, little solder flake jumping two pins under the connector. Got it out, all keyboard columns work now. Free Play set!

Awesome!

For the chimes vs other sounds, this is also a setting via the keypad. Page 7 of the manual, see "Sound Mode"

https://www.ipdb.org/files/303/Bally_1986_Black_Belt_Operating_Manual_with_paginated_schematics.pdf

^ Great, thanks, I'll have a look at my next opportunity. Now that it's set up and I verified it's working, I'll be putting this game aside until I have time for clean up & maintenance.

Here's pics to show you what I've got. These are "before", as I haven't cleaned anything yet.

Bookkeeping says it have over 8 million games. Is that realistic?

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Yeah on reset it defaults to coin op, slingshots off, and sound to chimes which seems odd. 8mil plays sounds pretty high??

I realize that the last post in this post was a year ago, but maybe I can get some answers.

I picked up a pretty nice black belt and I'm almost done shopping and fixing it up.

One issue I have is insert decals, were they ever reproduced?

And what the hell is the bulb that faces the relay under the playfield (top right if the playfield is vertical)?

Thanks,
Joe

Part of the solenoid expander board wiring.

LTG : )

Would be shocked in the decals were made.. but if you need a new ramp pm freeplay40

Thanks Becker, I follow freeplay's post (also had a freeplay high speed ramp) . Fortunately my ramp is crack free.
The only thing I need is a few insert decals and looks like that didn't happen and isn't going to.

I'm attempting to fix my last problems on my black belt.
Bought and installed a new mushroom target for the gentle touch thing in the shooter lane.
When it's installed the switch is open, the diode (in circuit) reads the same as other I tested to compare.
The capacitor on the switch was broken off, I resoldered it.
The switch didn't work before or after I reconnected the capacitor.
The blades of the switch show continuity when I close them.

Where do I look now?

I'd guess the mushroom that was there was broken for really long time before I fixed it.

Also, the right flipper seems a little weak
And sometimes the kicker that kicks the ball to the reversed flipper is weak too.

Thoughts?

Grab meter. Check continuity of wires from switch to board in the head.

Remove the coil stop, coil, check for sharp edge or mushroomed plunger, worn coil sleeve. Might need rebuilding or cleaning.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : That is an old picture of me on the right. I can post here.

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Thanks LTG,
So after a quick look, both coil stops are very loose and have mismatched screws. I'll take them physically apart tomorrow.
Maybe I have to stop over thinking things.

As for the switch, on the J4 connector of the board, I have continuity on the white/brown (At least i think it's brown) wire all the way to the switch, the black wires traced to 2 other switches that function and have continuity.
On the white/brown, I still have continuity on the header pin if I check with the connector pulled out a little and check to the pin itself.

If you hook your meter to the wires on the connector at the board and close the switch, does it register ? If not a board issue.

LTG : )

Nope, no continuity.
Which parts typically fail on a bally board for a switch.
I can solder/desolder, have an fr300.
I try to avoid doing so with chips, but transistors, caps etc. i'm good with.
I have the book, still acclimating to reading it, but I have fixed system 11 and wpc boards before.
If I don't figure out the book, I usually look at the board backlit and follow circuits checking for continuity and comparing like item values with similar items.
Thanks for the help,
Joe

That sounds like a break from the connector to the switch then.

LTG : )

I think I misunderstood what you wanted me to do.
I will retest and get back to you.

So i'm 100% certain the wires are solid all the way back to the connector.
While I don't get continuity when I read across them at the board connector, I do get a reading on the meter when I close the switch (like 1100 or so), which is the same reading I get when I try it with any other working switch.

Took the kicker coil stop off, it's mushroom a little bit, but it's worse that whoever did it used a 5/16 wood screw and a panhead wood screw cut shorter, no wonder it won't say in place.

Anyone know where I could buy the middle insert that is the red rectangle of the sun?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-6803-black-belt-switch-matrix-problem#post-5454692

I guess I'd rather it be my dumb mistake than a real problem.
Thanks for the help LTG

I'm looking to buy a really clean example Black Belt if anyone in the group is willing to part with one. Prefer within 6-7 hours of eastern NC but shipping possible. Want add placed in Market.Thanks.