(Topic ID: 280896)

BKSOR Flaming speaker mod DIY..now with mode aware

By ScottyC

11 months ago


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  • 76 posts
  • 20 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 38 days ago by ScottyC
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 76 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 5 months ago

4471940E-28C1-4C2E-B59D-D667C16C730C (resized).jpegAnother misstep.
I started fresh with new strips and made a new frame.
I used my multimeter to check continuity across power, ground, and data at all my soldering, back to the connector, and it is sound.
Is the left side not getting data or power?

A8E8F94F-0378-4C75-96B4-6A6F4BE2DA8C (resized).jpeg

#52 5 months ago

When leds end like that, it tends to mean you have a bad/damaged strip. To be honest, your soldering doesn’t look great. That’s a pretty big blob in the middle on the yellow wire. The fact that the lights stop where you soldered is a sign you didn’t do something correctly or damaged the strip, maybe with too much heat. Check your work again. It’s useful to have a separate 12v source at your bench so you can properly test and make diagnosing faster.

#53 5 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

I used my multimeter to check continuity across power, ground, and data at all my soldering, back to the connector, and it is sound.
Is the left side not getting data or power?

Well being as you are feeding power from the left strip in the pic I think it'd have to be the data line. Try to heat up that data solder joint a bit.

EDIT: took a closer look at your second pic.. looks like the first LED of that strip is lit, and then nothing after that... might be a bridge between the jumper and the data out leg of the LED on that connection (green arrow points to the DOUT pin of the LED)...
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#54 5 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It’s useful to have a separate 12v source at your bench so you can properly test and make diagnosing faster.

They aren't 12v light strips.

Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

Is the left side not getting data or power?

While working with these light strips....I've really not messed around with them much to see how they act when improperly connected in different ways. I'm expecting if any of the 3 wires are not getting a connection...the strip does nothing. Though.....I believe if the data line IS getting a signal to start with BUT THEN loses its connection....the lights will stay lit just as they were when the signal was lost. Basically "locking up" the light pattern.

Another weird thing about these strips is you can test the continuity though the whole strip on either of the power lines....but not on the data line. It's as if there is a break in the line at each bulb. To me...this can make diagnosing it a bit tricky.

If that strip on the left in your picture isn't lighting at all....I would think any of the 3 wires could be the culprit.

#55 5 months ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

Well being as you are feeding power from the left strip in the pic I think it'd have to be the data line. Try to heat up that data solder joint a bit.
EDIT: took a closer look at your second pic.. looks like the first LED of that strip is lit, and then nothing after that... might be a bridge between the jumper and the data pad on that connection

I hadn't noticed that one bulb on the left side working. As for your edit comment....I'm not sure what you are describing, but might it be this solder connection? It looks like the solder might have run into one of the legs of that SMD.

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#56 5 months ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

They aren't 12v light strips.

I think you get my point of having a power supply at the bench to test.

#57 5 months ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

hadn't noticed that one bulb on the left side working. As for your edit comment....I'm not sure what you are describing, but might it be this solder connection? It looks like the solder might have run into one of the legs of that SMD.

Yep you got it Doug I added a pic to my edited post as well (after the 3rd/4th edit I finally got it right.. hahaha)

#58 5 months ago

fun with led strips!
if someone has some level of programming skills( which is not me) , by tweaking the code you could do this effect with one led strip and not need the splice, make say led 1-45 the " left" and led 45-90 the " right" side and run the same routine on each side essentially simultaneously , maybe put a little delay on one side to make the flame less symmetrical. the options for programming the addressable led strips are endless.

regarding bench testing i am sure we all have a gazillion chargers of different voltages we have collected over the years . i cut the rca type plug off of a 5 v and a 12 v one and soldered in comet connectors , i use them all the time for checking led strips and bulbs

#59 5 months ago

...be a bridge between the jumper and the data out leg of the LED on that connection (green arrow points to the DOUT pin of the LED)...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Wow, Eagle Eyes!
You're right!
Another blunder bridge thanks to my clumsy soldering!
Don't have de-solder equipment, so it's on to attempt #4!

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#60 5 months ago

Finish line reached!
Thanks, all of you, for your patience and assistance!
We did it!
I adjusted the code parameters as follows:
Number or LED's - 35
Brightness - 125
FPS - 50

#61 5 months ago

Really cool !

Well done Jason !

LTG : )

#63 4 months ago

success!! satisfying to start a project with a learning curve and have it come out looking great

2 weeks later
#64 4 months ago

I also treated my prem to the flaming mod.

To avoid the hacky soldering, I changed the arduino code slightly so that the LED strip is addressed from the end.

This way it's possible to run a single strip per side in a U shape, and all the cabling from the speaker light kit can be reused.

Hope it's useful to someone

https://pastebin.com/raw/DrNMKZeX

#65 4 months ago
Quoted from Fubar:

I also treated my prem to the flaming mod.
To avoid the hacky soldering, I changed the arduino code slightly so that the LED strip is addressed from the end.
This way it's possible to run a single strip per side in a U shape, and all the cabling from the speaker light kit can be reused.
Hope it's useful to someone
https://pastebin.com/raw/DrNMKZeX

That's great! You avoided the challenging soldering! Doug was right! It can be done with smarter code!
Any chance you can share a clip of your machine running this code, or is there no perceptible difference?

#67 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

That's great! You avoided the challenging soldering! Doug was right! It can be done with smarter code!
Any chance you can share a clip of your machine running this code, or is there no perceptible difference?

He actually went back and changed the code so the left and right side of each light frame was running different code. It looked more natural. I believe he also mentioned adding the code so he could even run a 2nd data line. I'm expecting to jump directly from the controller to ONE of the light strips so it would be running 2 different flame patterns on the other frame. So 4 different flame patterns would be running at all times (left frame left, left frame right, right frame left and right frame right).

#68 4 months ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

That's great! You avoided the challenging soldering! Doug was right! It can be done with smarter code!
Any chance you can share a clip of your machine running this code, or is there no perceptible difference?

There is a video attached to this post: https://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/trying-to-understand-speaker-light-kits.49555/post-406261

The code I posted outputs one effect to pin D5, and a separate one to pin D4. The video above wires both speakers to pin D5, so the effect is symmetrical.

By wiring the data line of one of the speakers to D4 instead, the effects would be independent (so 4 loops total: one for each half of each speaker). But I couldn't be bothered and I think it looks nice like this too.

Here's a photo of the installation and wiring:

IMG_20210603_105240 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#69 3 months ago

Flames now change colour for each monster

https://vimeo.com/565235614

#70 3 months ago
Quoted from Fubar:

Flames now change colour for each monster
https://vimeo.com/565235614

Shut the front door!!! Ok to bad it looks like the base kit I need to start this build is out of stock...

#71 3 months ago
Quoted from Fubar:

Flames now change colour for each monster
https://vimeo.com/565235614

#72 3 months ago
Quoted from Fubar:

Flames now change colour for each monster
https://vimeo.com/565235614

Absolutely amazing!!!!

2 weeks later
#73 3 months ago

The type 12 kits are back in stock! ordered that and all the rest of the parts tonight. Can't wait!

Flames now change colour for each monster
https://vimeo.com/565235614</blockquo

What did you have to do to get it to change with the modes???? Great work BTW that is amazing!!!!

#74 3 months ago
Quoted from Switch:

What did you have to do to get it to change with the modes???? Great work BTW that is amazing!!!!

Thanks, I've been playing with the palettes since - pretty happy with the result now. Maybe I'll do an updated video.

In the video description there is a github link which explains how it's done. It requires manually modifying the SD card contents and installing a serial link to the MPU. Proceed at your own risk!

1 week later
#75 89 days ago

Wanted to give a HUGE thanks to Fubar for his coding and knowledge to take this to the next level!! (not to mention dealing with all the pestering from myself ).

-Mode aware color switching is just, just WOW!!!
-The 4 individual flames look a lot more realistic
-Simplified LED strip installation
-More of a factory integrated feel (turns on when the game is initialized, and not just when power is applied)

Still playing with palette colors, but this is where I am at this moment (sorry for the horrible video )
(FYI there are some spoilers in here as it shows all the modes of the game and speaker light interactions)

1 month later
#76 38 days ago

Jurassic Park Double Deluxe Mode Aware speaker lights (type12 and type13 combo)

Well after having what seemed to be a very intimate relationship learning FASTLED (really just scratching the surface), I finally have finished mode aware speaker lights for Jurassic Park. I wanted something other than just color changes on this one so ended up creating different effects for most modes (some are repetitive, as there's just so many modes in JP, lol) As always still tweaking colors and effects to my liking, but this is what I have at the moment. Just wanted to share

Here's the arduino code: https://pastebin.com/raw/rvLKsB16
Some Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rFVkcC76RVK2omBk7

And a couple vids, cause who doesn't love a video (Sample of the modes in JP, Man its hard to video LEDs to capture their true colors, but it is what it is)

And my favorite mode: Invalid Frenzy

There are 76 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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