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(Topic ID: 225649)

BK2K Hot Lower Right Flipper (Also Gets Weak)


By darcangeloel

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 70 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Kawydud
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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There are 70 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 2 years ago

Great. OL would be correct for the capacitor. If you reversed the leads, you likely would see the value dip then return to OL. That would be the ohmmeter discharging and recharging the capacitor.

#52 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Great. OL would be correct for the capacitor. If you reversed the leads, you likely would see the value dip then return to OL. That would be the ohmmeter discharging and recharging the capacitor.

It's funny you mention that as that is exactly what happened lol.

#53 2 years ago

Okay so I made some progress here. Long story short is I found I got 68 ohms when both the upper and lower right flippers were raised which given the way it's wired seems to make sense. As a note both coils test out correctly also the upper right flipper has like 130 ohms when it is raised. Triple checking my wiring on both coils and looking at various other machines confirms that the wires going to the lugs are correct so I put some card board in between the lower right flipper eos and the upper right flipper eos to keep the consistent 68 ohms (on the two bottom lugs of the lower right flipper). Digging into the back box it looks like the issue is being caused by J8 on the interconnect board.(or somewhere further up that chain). Someone did goofy shit to the old one so I replaced it with a new one from great plains a while ago. When removing J8 from the board I get 130 ohms at both coils lower lugs (right coils) I'm wondering if I wired something wrong on that connector. Can someone look at the attached pictures and tell me if I'm off here? Also could someone take a close up of that connector in the back box? Thanks!

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#54 2 years ago

The upper and lower flipper coils are starting to sound like they are in parallel. If so, that would cut their resistance in half, which would make about 60 ohms. Sorry, my BK2K is out on loan so I cannot check this.

Do you know if the original lower right flipper coil was getting hot before you went with the new one and rebuilt the flipper assemblies?

#55 2 years ago

Oh LOL I'm chasing ghosts then more than likely hahaha. Hmm not that I recall. I feel kind of dumb after thinking about it you are right about them being in parallel. Even though it doesn't seem like it I still wonder if it is that coil. My replacements arrive tommorow I'm gonna swap out that bottom one and see if that clears the issue up. Either way it is time well spent. let me give it a shot and report back after.

#56 2 years ago

New coil but it still gets hot. I mean I do use the shit out of that flipper could it just be normal? One thing that I do find odd is on both the left and right flippers when I measure at the lugs when I flip they both seem to be at like 67 volts or something close to it. Any idea why? I wonder if the increased voltage is making it hot (Although I wonder why the left isn't getting hot). I'm also using the same pincoils from marco. I wonder if I should try orginal williams coils or the ones from pinball life. Also maybe try going down to fl11630 (What the factory had in the game)

#57 2 years ago

67 volts is good. Some games are arould 72 volts.

Yeah, I would see what 11630 would do. I would expect 11629 to be a bit warmer, but not hot.

#58 2 years ago

vid1900 - any thoughts on this. Eos is right. The flipper is super strong. Is this just fallout from me using the wrong coil? This assembly is rebuild per your awesome guide for system 11 flipper upgrades new eos, coil, coil sleeve, coil stop plunger, ect . Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

#59 2 years ago

Bump to see if anyone else has any ideas. I feel like going from 11630 to 11629 shouldn't cause that much of a difference. Also I would think the top coil which was converted as well would have heat problems also but I am not seeing that.

#60 2 years ago

First things first, go back to the correct coils.

Steve Richie wants that long shot to be a challenge.

If you make the game easier with stronger coils, you will QUICKLY get bored with it

Just because someone makes a Youtube video does not make them an expert on anything, lol.

-

Second, check for cracked solder joints on pins of the flipper board in the backbox

-

Third, post some GOOD pictures of both flippers.

Fluff the wires up so we can see where EACH one is going

Focused

Well Lit (use a lamp, not your phones flash)

EOS Stack, everything

#61 2 years ago

No vid you cannot have my extra hacky board. Look at this extra yummy work.

Also could someone provide me with close ups of this board installed in their machine with J4,J5,J11,J12? I want to make sure I have the wires on the correct pins my guess is if they f'ed this board up they could have f'ed this up as well. I wonder if at this point I should replace this bad boy with a replacement for a while and send it off to coin op caludron if possible for repair. Those go right to the relay D23 btw

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#62 2 years ago

Actually I checked the colors against the ones in the manual and they are an exact match for connectos J11,J12,J8,J10,J5 and mostly for J4. I am missing one vio/green wire on this connector and when I look in the harness it is zip tied in with I don't see this color (I went one by one three times to be sure) this has to do with solenoid 05A I wonder if this is an issue or unrelated

#63 2 years ago

Nvm Solenoid 5A shows as not used in the manual

#64 2 years ago

Well, if I were a bettin' man, I'd sure put my money on that terrible relay job being part of the problem.

It's probably not the only part, because people don't just randomly replace relays, but OMG what shltty work.

#65 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Well, if I were a bettin' man, I'd sure put my money on that terrible relay job being part of the problem.
It's probably not the only part, because people don't just randomly replace relays, but OMG what shltty work.

Clean that rotten flux to.

#66 2 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Well, if I were a bettin' man, I'd sure put my money on that terrible relay job being part of the problem.
It's probably not the only part, because people don't just randomly replace relays, but OMG what shltty work.

Yeah I think that's one if the worst I've seen in a while. Replacement on the way. I do agree though I think I'll go back to fl11630 anyways as they are stupidly strong

#67 2 years ago

Wanted to provide an update here and ask a few questions. First off I got a brand new Aux power board (Flipper board) as the old one has a number of hacks and I didn't feel comfortable leaving it in the game (I will send to Coin Op Warehouse and see if Clive can get it sorted out as I am a big fan of original boards). However even with the new board (From X-Pin) I am still having the heat issue with the FL-11629's. Being an impatient ding dong I installed a 12 v fan which runs off the three bank drop target board. This has resolved the heat issue from what I can tell but it leaves a really bad taste in my mouth as it is A) not the right want to fix the issue and B) I worry it could hurt that board in the long run. Another thing I've noticed as I have FL-11629's installed in my T2 and my F-14 is that the Williams Branded coils don't seem to get anywhere near as hot. They are still warm but no where near as hot as the Pin-Coil ones from Marco. Has anyone else had an issue with these? On all the games those get way, way hotter. At any rate, I've ordered the correct FL-11630's from pinball life (As I'm not sure if Marco's coil vendor is not having issues at this point). so I will replace both of the coils on the right side of my BK2K and see if that resolved the heat issue (At least for the most part). I'm thinking that before I decided to move to the "Stronger Coils" because I hadn't rebuilt the flippers I thought the FL-11630's were the issue. I wonder if I go back to the 11630's if I will think the flippers are weak again? My guess is no because of experience and the flippers are rebuilt. This leads me to two other questions. 1) if I feel they aren't strong enough would it be reasonable to try FL-15411's? (I actually didn't know those existed I thought it went 29 and then 30 so it seems like I jumped up two coil strengths DOH!). Or would I just run into heat issues again? Also and I feel like I'll regret asking this but why not, should the T2 and F-14 both go back to the 11630's? (I think that is what is in the manual).

I have to agree with Vid regarding the youtube video (Despite how much I hate to amend myself). Ray in that video is simply wrong about that comment. The FL-11629's make the game go from like a 7 out of 10 in terms of difficulty for average players to like a 2 out of 10. Almost every game I get Ransom mode twice and multi-ball a ton of times. Also the ball hits stuff insanely hard (Without a doubt if I leave them in on this game stuff is going to get broken quickly). Drop targets for example get nailed at warp speed. In the future I think I would recommend to other BK2K owners to try a rebuild first and FL-11630's (If they need to be changed). Just want to put that comment out there in case someone else watches that video and thinks they are going to have more fun with the game being stupid easy.... Yes it was fun for about 20 minutes and then I kept just kept hoping the ball would drain lol. I guess the 30's provide the correct level of challenge. I'll install the new stuff tomorrow and report back (I assume all will be well and hopefully I will prevent other people from using the wrong part in their game).

FL-11629 (blue) Strongest and hottest?
FL-15411 (orange) less hot
FL-11630 (red) less hot but still warm after playing
FL-11722 (green) not hot?
FL-11753 (yellow) Weakest.not hot at all?

6 months later
#68 1 year ago

Okay time to get more help here. I've returned the coil back to the williams fl-11630. Still the same issue the coil gets hot from the inside. Flipper has been totally rebuild. See attached pictures with lamps and no flash as per vids request

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Oh one other real weird thing. When I put a lead of my dmm to the coil stop and the other lead to the metal side rail on the game I get a pretty small voltage reading. Something like a few milli volts all the way up to 3volts dc. Not sure where in the hell it some from but it seems to be highest when the flipper is being returned to the resting position. Not sure if this is normal or not. I'd assume hell no as the other flipper doesn't seem to have that issue.

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#69 1 year ago

Bump... still getting hot AF. I've replaced the power supply board and the flipper board (AUX power supply) as well, both with brand new xpin boards. The flipper has been fully rebuilt so I have no idea where in the hell the heat is coming from.

#70 1 year ago

That flipper assembly doesn't look rebuilt. Here is a picture of the BK2000 I just rebuilt. From what you are describing it sounds like the low resistance part of the coil isn't losing it's path, like the eos isn't breaking the circuit when it opens. It is staying on to hold the flipper in. Here is a picture of the one I just did.

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