Documenting an already very nice Black Knight 2000 that will just be a tear down with some new plastics, ramp, and a few small things with a very thorough cleaning. I also want to mention that Fast Eddie who brought the machine is awesome to work with. Super nice who is extremely careful in wrapping and moving the machines. I didn't get a picture but I didn't want to slow him down.

Will share the tear down pics and progress. Very little needed on this example. We know we will do plastics, ramp, coil wrappers, and any other issues found along the way. So far, nothing is standing out. I'd love to see a playfield protector go on, but not sure if it will be an issue with the Mylar especially on the upper playfield. I will not be touching the Mylar other than polishing what is there.

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Lower playfield tear down side in progress. One broken screw for middle drop target area that secures the tall star posts.

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More of the top being cleared off.

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Remainder of the top side clearing. Note the broken screws in the first picture. There's actually two broken screws which I assume was done at the factory by mistake. It plays fine but interesting to see.

Broken screws assuming from factory

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Couple of things mentioned before. Did well with only one broken screw in a T nut. Some wear at the kickout lane. And the three screw holes.

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Will be stripping the entire playfield down for a proper shop. Cleaning all wiring, rebuilding all mechs with new wrappers, sleeves, etc.

First pics before starting to remove bottom side pics part 1:

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More bottom side pics with disassembly part 2:

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Always check your flipper bats. You wouldn't be able to see these unless you remove while doing a rebuild. They weren't real obvious and almost made it into the ultrasonic. Will be getting all 3 new ones since 2 are already cracked and the upper likely is too.

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Bottom side tear down nearly ready part 3:

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Few things needed desoldered or cut. I chose to use the staple puller on the one

Last of the bottom side tear down/apron coils/light removals part 4:

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Just need to remove the rails and few boards and it's stripped down. Overall in very nice shape.

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Few pics of first of the batches to get ultrasonic bath (post cleaning). I've still using Simple Green with a 20 or 30-1 ratio of distilled water. I run a batch for 18 minutes at 35-40c.

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Will ask on the BK2000 club thread, but wondering if a playfield protector would improve or hurt the look with a Mylar playfield? I've done two already but one was a new playfield and one was on a diamondplate original. My biggest concern is the upper playfield has some mylar lifting that I don't want to disturb and protector won't likely help that.

Thoughts from anyone that has used one on their Black Knight 2000 ?

All stripped down. Light boards have been ultrasonic'd and cleaned. Most weldments have been the same. New ramp, plastics and coil wrappers are on their way.

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Playfield is cleaning up nicely. We will be doing decals for kickback and Mylar over them. They’re the only real wear items.

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Cleaned all lower playfield inserts. Lighting harness and boards installed. List for insert LED’s created. Most upper playfield hardware ready. Topside can get put on when weldment regraining finished. Some parts started to install.

Requested to put in Comet 2SMD warm white in GI. Will be adding some blue Comet strips in the U-turns. Inserts will be color matched with warm white in orange inserts.
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Had to order some new star posts. After cleaning you could see a lot of minor cracks.

Flipper mechs taken apart. Will be installing new bushings, rebuild and converting to WPC return spring style

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Lower playfield mechanisms coming apart for cleaning. No major issues but am using a new ball popper plastic and sling arms due to age of the plastic. New coil sleeves and wrappers will follow as well.

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Weldments mostly all regrained and installed. New diode and clear tubing for lamp that was cut to remove harness.

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Regrained on left:

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Lower Flippers rebuilt with new brackets (old were hogged open), bushings, etc. New caps not yet installed.

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We are going with all Titan clear rings with new plastic set. There is a lot of riveting on the upper playfield!

Some assemblies coming together. Ball popper and outhole kicker in.

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Doh! Rookie mistake. What’s wrong with the outhole kicker?

I had the coil in backwards...

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Thanks Chris. Yes, this machine is already super nice. Trying to make it just a little nicer with some tasteful improvements.

Flippers are finished and mounted.

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Left Lane guide at the kickback has taken its toll at the corner. Some gentle hand filing and back to shape. Will polish it up before installed.

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Titan order came today. They really look nice and like the clears.

Installed some the plastics on the lower playfield and while fishing out the new set from CPR it’s apparent just how many are used on the top. This is most of the plastics (and extras/topper) for the upper playfield. It may be just an upper, but there’s a lot crammed up there.

Mechs are slowly getting installed. New drop targets with decals back in place. Ball eject mech installed.

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Plastic protectors were included to install. They include all the lower plastics and one for the upper playfield. The lower playfield plastic for the Magna Save was off at the plastic spacer. Marked and used drill press to make a new hole. Will work fine when installed.

I can’t emphasize enough if you’re a hobbyist of anything, get a drill press. I spent way too years doing car stuff without. They come in handy all the time.

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The Russian wants treats so that’s it for tonight.

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I use an old Treasure Cove kit #2 (I have still not used up much since getting the kit a while back) and polish it out with the wool pad and Meguiar’s Show car glaze.

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Sling mechs are together and installed.

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Lower playfield plastics are all finally installed. Had to open another hole in a plastic protector but not unusual.

The Magna Save bulb hole is tight. I have a premium yellow 44 frosted in it now (was yellow condom incandescent when arrived) but thinking a warm, natural or cool white with condom over. Anyone have compared the differences of using these combos? I still use incandescent with condoms on my TAF.

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Last of lower playfield mechs in place.

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Lockdown bar, tilt bob/hardware, and prop rod will get cleaned up to match the rest of the cabinet and playfield being as nice as they are.

Comet order came so lower playfield LED’s installed and most soldering completed.

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New tubing, diodes and switches installed.

Warm white frosted 2SMD GI in lower tested. Red flex adds in to saucer; soldered to GI circuit.

Not shown is the staples installed where needed back in to GI. Three areas in total for the lower.

And lastly, lower playfield installed in cabinet.

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Upper in process of tear down. Tons of parts crammed in here. Few initial pics of tear down. I’ll be rivetting for days! There’s a lot of plastics that have rivets but should look great with new plastics.

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Upper mostly cleared.

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Upper cleared.

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Upper playfield underside. Few parts already removed to mount to rotisserie. If you’re ever planning to use a rotisserie for a smaller or upper playfield, get some new pipe or whatever method you have because you’ll be cursing tripping over the “normal” length ones.

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I get asked about the paint on the rotisserie from time to time. It’s a mix of Ford Sonic blue and a 1992 Mercury Sable light blue (Believe Light Regatta Blue) I had from some old beater cars.

Here’s a few parts that should be replaced:

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Deciding pop bump bumper bodies, caps and skirts. He'll get to decide but really thinking the red caps, yellow skirts and the yellow translucent or yellow sold bodies would look really nice.

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Double Post

Quick cleaning before a full polish.

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Few of cleaning out the dirt lines at the Mylar areas. All polished out and waxed. Need to get red lightning bolt insert epoxied and clamped down. It must have been this way for some time as the Mylar has lifted here. Otherwise not in bad shape at all.

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Solid yellow or translucent?

We decided to get the ramp and thinking it was a good idea. You won’t see the cracks, but it should outlast the old one.

Lockdown bar cleaned up and new decals.

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Huge thank you to Cliffy for getting out another set of BK2K protectors. USPS from NJNeil to me got “lost” in the sorting equipment. I’m thankful that at least my local post office (not sure if it was them) were the ones that it happened at but I got the envelope and message that sorting equipment ate them.

Shooter lane he provided both options. We went with the wider one as it hides the wear if you can call it much of it at best. Comparisons and final install.

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New Cliffy ball guides installed. My “repaired” one worked ok but nothing beats a new one that hasn’t been worn down and filed down.

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Preparing for a rivet fest. Here’s what you’re looking at if you’re replacing all the upper plastics. Nothing needing riveting on the few lower plastics.

I’ll use some screws and nyloc nuts in a few areas for serviceability.

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Making some top side progress.

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New pop lamp wiring stapled down and underside mostly back together.

New switches installed on new plastic ramp and two switches at back right corner. Verified operation of switch with ball. Always a lot easier to make these adjustments now.

Top side progress as of today. Will be trying some ice blues in some of the GI. The tall posts make it impossible to get anything but a non frosted in the WIN and WAR 44 holders.

I need to order a new flipper cap for upper flipper and new pop covers in red unless there’s any of their suggestions/ideas? Pop switches are in place but need adjusted. Soldering a couple coils, lamps and flashers and we should be ready to fire.

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Thanks lol!

Has anyone else bought the CPR plastics and did you have the one clear plastic that goes on upper by ramp? They don’t show it on the site so guess not. This one is fine but not as nice as the rest of the new ones.
Missing plastic in new sets?

And I see there are two holes here and not just this but almost all I’ve seen. Thinking maybe some red mini posts to fill the hole and blend in.
Extra holes!

Soldering other than a new flipper capacitor is done.

Last of riveting done.

GI tested and may change that up a bit. Top of upper is done other than pop caps.

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GI testing and trying some different colors.

Installed two red miniposts in the clear plastic over the ramp. At minimum, it makes it easier to install and remove it.

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Lower playfield powered up and testing...

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Upper playfield installed. Testing, well this one was a bit of a challenge. I had some phantom switches triggered by the wrong switches. Adding to that I have no flash lamps or pop bumpers. Otherwise it is great!

I started with the phantom switches. The problem was actually obvious in switch test as I was getting playfield tilt and motor up. Motor was obvious and should be as it tests during power on and comes and stops up. This game doesn’t have the playfield tilt and I did see wires that were heat shrinked. I figured I would cut them just to see. Sure enough that fixed all of the switch issues. Assumed someone or factory cut and heat shrinked but never assume.

Pop bumpers weren’t too bad to figure out: blown 5amp fuse on underside of upper playfield. It says 2.5amp and that’s what I put back in. Yikes! But they’re all working fine. Assume AC relay or its driver is why I have no flash lamps since they’re all on C and I have all A solenoids working fine. Owner confirms they were working with exception of the two lower at flippers.

Still stumped on flashers. Was fortunate to have a few Sys11 machines and never had much go wrong. Things I have confirmed:

1. A/c select relay is clicking in test.
2. Grounded Q8 and in coil test all flashers work with exception of two by flippers. So I clearly have power.

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I don't actually know if it does/did show that. The relay clicks and you can see and hear it so just assumed it was working especially after grounding out Q8. So I will confirm that too. What does it show? I know the menu comes with in coils A-C and it clicks once and that's all. So wondering if it's sticking or not making a good closure. I picked up a new relay ice cube from work as we use them for controls, but it's for DIN mount. I may use it for testing...

It very well could be and despite it being a really nice example, it is 30 years old so very possible. It's odd that there are no flashers, so it should really isolate itself to only a few things wrong. I'm pulling the board tonight to at least reflow.

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So apparently I’m not seeing it change. Reflowed relay and continuity along all flashers which I expected since I can force to work. Help on other post sounds like bad U1 optocoupler on interconnect.

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While I wait for an opto coupler to try for the interconnect board that looks to be suspect cause for lack of flashers, I’ve done a few other things.

Pinball Pro speaker kit installed and rebuilt shooter with new sleeve, tip and springs. Went with black for the barrel to go with cabinet. I think a lot of people overlook this to rebuild. Been in the habit to redo these on any pins I own when they come home.

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Installed blue light strip at U turn. Experimenting with another strip under upper ramp in upper left rear facing down and another in the ball lock plastic.

Hard to get photos that don’t make the pics vs. reality look like they’re washed out.

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Here's the finished product. Note, I have more green frosteds that will go at the WAR GI area. This will replace the rainbow that you see here.

Pics before adding blue strip under lock plastic, ramp and another blue flex shining up from the metal ramp area:
Before 1
Before 2

After adding blue strip under lock plastic, ramp and another blue flex shining up from the metal ramp area:
After 1
After 2

Thank you. It looks fantastic and plays great. Loving the way the flashers work within the game when BK is talking, dancing effects of the back light flashers, and the overall lighting package.

We did kill (unplug) all the extra lighting other than the one in the U turn. I left them in place so they can be added in if wanted later. We also settle on green in the lower GI WAR area, but picked up some Comet fire bulbs and put them in. They really look great there and subtle when standing in playing position.

Fire bulbs:

Thanks Chris. It came out great and have gotten to put two dozen or so games on it. It plays too fast for me to score well on. Has been rock solid since putting it back together too.

Few pics of the finished machine:

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Few more:
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Some video of my horrible gameplay.

On this one, it didn't need much at all mostly ultrasonic with some tumbling of parts. Hand polished anything that wasn't in the tumbler.