Bizarre Audio Break Up Problem on Hook

(Topic ID: 160638)

Bizarre Audio Break Up Problem on Hook


By PeteB

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by PeteB
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

  • Hook Data East, 1992

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Screenshot_at_2016-06-03_13:33:59_(resized).png

#1 2 years ago

Hey guys! Need some help here as I'm running out of options. So my Hook has this weird problem where the switch on the left ramp seems to cause some kind of break up in the audio with some nasty pops and cracks, but all other game sounds work fine. It's been doing this since I bought the game over a year ago, now it's been completely shopped and everything cleaned the game works brilliantly apart from this issue which persists.

Here's a video showing what's going on:

What you may notice is that the ramp sound plays fine the first 2 times. It seems like it doesn't start to happen until the machine has been on for a few minutes.

Here's some things I've done so far to try and fix the problem:
- replaced the switch diode (twice)
- re-burned the sound roms and the game rom
- checked and cleaned all connectors
- re-capped the entire sound board

So with the problem persisting after doing the above I'm now at a loss. Any suggestions?

#2 2 years ago

Anyone?

#3 2 years ago

That is a crazy one!

#4 2 years ago

I've now replaced some of the main IC chips on the sound board. Still having the same problem. Wish I could track down what is causing this.

#5 2 years ago

Is it my imagination or are the lights on the ramp flickering off in time with the pops on the sound?

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from Paddypaws:

Is it my imagination or are the lights on the ramp flickering off in time with the pops on the sound?

You may be on to something. Maybe try unplugging the ramp lights and test it again.

#7 2 years ago

It's also worth noting that as you hit the ramp, you build up the ramp value... and the associated sound effect changes at some point. This might be the reason why the ramp sounds fine the first few times you hit it. It might be a problem with the sound effect that is played with the higher ramp value.

What happens if you just alternate the ramp switch and the right return lane switch?

#8 2 years ago

The symptom is the incandescent rope lights pulling down the +12v power supply. The power supply is the source of the problem. If the supply drops below 9v the amplifiers on the sound board will cut out. Are you using an original power supply board? Turn the game off, remove all connectors from the power supply board except CN1 (square one), turn on, test +12v test point on the power supply board against ground with a meter. What are you getting? Now turn the game off, reconnect the remaining connectors, turn it back on in attract mode, and test again. Should be getting around 12.5v, or at least 12v.

I had this exact same problem with an X-Pin revision E board. Brett said he added a regulator to the +12v circuit, and this was malfunctioning.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

The symptom is the incandescent rope lights pulling down the +12v power supply. The power supply is the source of the problem. If the supply drops below 9v the amplifiers on the sound board will cut out. Are you using an original power supply board? Turn the game off, remove all connectors from the power supply board except CN1 (square one), turn on, test +12v test point on the power supply board against ground with a meter. What are you getting? Now turn the game off, reconnect the remaining connectors, turn it back on in attract mode, and test again. Should be getting around 12.5v, or at least 12v.
I had this exact same problem with an X-Pin revision E board. Brett said he added a regulator to the +12v circuit, and this was malfunctioning.

You sir are a genius! Thank you!

It IS indeed the rope lights. Disconnected them and the problem vanishes. I also do indeed have an XPIN power supply which I bought brand new for the game a few months ago. I've checked it, and it's the Revision E board.

So, I'm now at a loss as what to do about it. I'm not prepared to fork out for ANOTHER XPIN power supply when this one was bought to supposedly get my game running again.

And to think I spent all that time and money replacing components on the soundboard. Grrrr!!!

#10 2 years ago

Brett carries a two year warranty on his products. Go to this page and open a support ticket. Give him the readings you are getting on the +12v in attract mode. Ask him to replace your board with one that has an unregulated +12v circuit.

http://support.21-electronics.com/support-tickets/

You can modify the board yourself but I would not suggest that until you file a warranty claim.

#11 2 years ago

Holy cow, just noticed something about these X-Pin boards. C1, which provides DC power for the entire +12v supply in the game, is massively underrated! The original Data East design spec calls for a 25v 18,000uf electrolytic. The one in the X-Pin board is only 10,000uf. That's a 45% decrease in capacity! I'm going to replace C1 with an 18,000uf cap per the original Data East engineers. I thought about this some more after poking around my game again about a month after I swapped boards and solved my sound problem. +12v sits at about 13v when under no load, 11.5v in attract, and slumps as low as 10.4v when flashing the rope lights. The location reported the DMD dropping out also. To me that's too low.

Screenshot_at_2016-06-03_13:33:59_(resized).png

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

That's a 45% decrease in capacity!

Dang... you should inform the folks at X-Pin.

#13 2 years ago

Update. Replaced with 18,000uf 25v of the same brand and temperature rating (85C). New readings are...

No load: 13.75v
Attract: 12.15v
Lowest point when flashing rope lights: 11.2v

A handful of games later the machine is rock solid. Looks to have solved the problem!

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Update. Replaced with 18,000uf 25v of the same brand and temperature rating (85C). New readings are...
No load: 13.75v
Attract: 12.15v
Lowest point when flashing rope lights: 11.2v
A handful of games later the machine is rock solid. Looks to have solved the problem!

Amazing stuff dude! So is all of this in addition to the board fix discussed earlier in this thread?

#15 2 years ago

Yes. Even after removing the +12v regulator as Brett suggested the circuit was still dropping a bit during gameplay. Replacing the cap fixed it so now should be bulletproof.

You can remove VR3 and short the two leads on the device. It is just shorting the two pads left open when VR3 was removed. I added a 7812 to fix a perceived problem and it just made things worse in some games, better in others. Removing the 7812 as I indicated (VR3) and running a wire between the two pads will take care of the issue.

3 weeks later
#16 2 years ago

Were you able to get a solution to this?

1 month later
#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Were you able to get a solution to this?

Yeah dude! All fixed thanks to you!

#18 2 years ago

What exactly did you do to fix it?

#19 2 years ago

I did all of the fixes you talked about above. Removed the VR3 regulator and replaced the capacitor.

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