Was it your search disc wipers? That means your clutches might be really sticky. That's going to cause some nasty problems if not addressed.

When the screen did move, did it move easily or kinda labored?

Magic screen feature unit needs to step up several times before you can move it, then there's the right/left button, which only unlock when the timer is on step 2. Something in that cluster of stuff isn't right, most likely.

If your control unit or timer cams aren't returning to one of their stopped positions because of clutch issue, that might also cause it.

The blue score unit? You mean a winner in the blue section? There's a rather unique ratcheting unit with several switches that allow it to determine payout as the amounts are big - 300 or 600. The trip relays govern when and how those should pay. Your screen has to be enabled to I believe at least 'F' before it will show one of those panels, and a winner scores in much the same way as a standard 3 in line. The difference is that when the search index holds and replay cams start turning, it will bump the blue score unit (that weird ratcheting thing with the tiny gear). I've fixed a few games where one of the switches is not in quite the correct state. Figuring out where it should be by default and manually stepping it to that point and trying again might fix it.

If, on the other hand, it's stepping that unit, but not the replay register, then it's a control unit problem (most likely).

To collect OK, the OK must be lit (which it is or you wouldn't be able to get to the orange section).

3 or more in orange pay when that lamp is lit and that scoring sounds like it's working, so that's good.

To actually collect the futurity games, rather than pressing 'R' and letting go, press 'R' and hold down until the search cycle is complete.

To play a futurity game, if you have any at all banked (and those persist after turning machine off and on), press the orange button. It doesn't matter the number collected, but there has to be at least one.

The fuse blocks Bally used for many years are notoriously unreliable. Nonetheless if the lamps were working before and are not now there are a few possible causes:

1) blown fuse (probable short to a lamp somewhere or bad lamp)
2) bad fuse holder (common and can cause fuses to blow by increasing resistance to the point where the fuse heats up and pops).
3) 16 pulse cam switch weirdness - these are switches bouncing constantly on the mixer unit (back door at top).
4) I believe (and I'd have to check) there's a switch on the start relay that enables the 'coin flash'. Might be that.

If the lamps don't remain lit after the light show should stop, then it's probably fuse related.

Yep! Now the question is why... But sometimes the fuse itself was bad or worn out. Fingers crossed.

The best choice for aftermarket backglasses these days is Coos - https://www.coos.net/bingo_e/backglasses.html

Really great product both the foils and full mirrored backglasses.

I have one of Coos's back glass for my Bikini.
It looks great and with real mirrored lines
Terry K

Hy brid complete (resized).JPG

iir, lido and bikini are the exception machines. You never need to hold down the R button.

if you have 3-in-orange enabled and enough numbers lit, the game will add to your futurity count first, then the replay cams will release to pay the orange scores as green amount.

tmi
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- when you press/release the R button, the search wipers are released

- when the wipers reach position 29 and any of search relays 1-4 are powered due to a ball being in the corresponding hole, the search index coil powers

- if the futurity advance count has not already been collected on a previous R button push, the futurity advance relay powers

- the sequence unit does it's stepping-up examining each hole in the colored section and stepping up the winner unit if a ball is found

- when the winner unit reaches step 2, the futurity advance counter unit and futurity game unit step up via a 16 pulse cam switch. The sequence and winner units may still be stepping up

- when the futurity advance counter unit steps enough times (you've added the right amount to your futurity game unit), the futurity advance relay unpowers. If the winner unit has stepped up 3+ times AND you haven't already been paid in green AND 3-in-orange is enabled, the search index coil stays powered and the replay cams are released to pay the green score amount.

the convoluted thing is working out how the 3-in-orange is paid, and it doesn't help that the search disc diagram on bikini manual page 15 is wrong. The outer ring rivet at position 4 is wire 14-16, not wire 14-6. The lido manual has it right.

wanna see a bad unedited video?

https://bingo.cdyn.com/video/screen_lamp_replacement.m4v

the blue replay counter is on the middle of the back door above the reflex unit. Sounds like it's not stepping.

if not, remove the e-clip on the shaft and while using your extra hands hold the switches out of the way and twist/yank the ratchet off the shaft. Clean all the dried grease off the shaft and out of the hole, relube and reassemble.

if you don't remove or move the switches, you don't have to worry about getting them in the right place to stop the payout at the right amount.

you should be able to operate the relay armature and have the ratchet step. Don't worry about getting the unit to a home position ... the game will do that on reset.

One or more of the switches on the blue counter unit are not properly set, or the cam is not properly installed far enough back that all switches can fall in the detents.

Got a photo of how the switches are arranged and how the cam is installed? One straight on and one at a slight angle should be enough to tell what's up.

As baldtwit said, the unit should zero itself. The going nuts is it trying and failing to do so. IIRC, one of the switches absolutely must be set properly for the game to start. Another for the blue section to score. I think(?) the third merely detects if it is off-zero, but I don't recall for sure and don't have a game with a blue counter handy to check.

disable the mixer 4 relay so the switch is always closed.

you can just stick some folded up paper between the coil top and armature plate to prevent the plate from pulling down far enough to open the switch ... but it may buzz.

you can jumper or misadjust the switch always closed.

disconnecting the coil is nice to save wear-n-tear, and it's guaranteed to be quiet

the switches should be closed when the switch stacks are riding on the outer cam edge.

the switches open when the stack falls down into the cam notch.

the switches should always be touching the cam edge. Looks like your right front switch is floating - not falling down into the cam notch.

rotate the cam and when a stack flops into the notch, adjust the switch to be open. Rotate a little more and when the stack is around halfway up the ramp, the switch contacts should touch. Rotate more and to where the stack is on the outer edge and the long/moving blade should have visibly deflected the short blade ... that switch overtravel slides the contacts across each other which helps keep the contacts clean and makes a good mechanical connection.

do the above for each stack.

It is a part of the game, but there are ways to make it easier on yourself - disabling mixer 4 relay is one of the most effective means of earning features faster. You can also disable stepping up of the reflex.

For mixer 4 yes. As baldtwit said, make sure that switch is always closed.