(Topic ID: 168347)
Linked Games
Big Hurt
Gottlieb, 1995
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Lombard, IL
Thanks. Got the sticker on the way from pbr, If I ever find one of these with good chrome I'll swap it out.
1 week later
Quoted from ChitownCraig:How much was it with shipping? I need one as well
That was sticker # 31544B. It was only $3. Not sure on the shipping as I bought a bunch of other stuff too and had it all shipped together.
Does anyone happen to have a picture of the fasteners for the blue pop bumper cap? I can't figure out how it attached to the pop bumper. Took a bunch of pic's before disassembly and of course didn't get this view.
9 months later
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:Can anyone here confirm that there is a diverter in the back and what it looks like? I see a spot where one looks to have been and a plug not plugged into anything. I believe it diverts sometimes to the upper kick out saucer?
Yes, there is a diverter. It's basically a flap of sheet metal controlled by a solenoid if I remember. Here's a few grainy pics from when I had mine apart.
IMG_20171226_173520 (resized).jpgIMG_20171226_173529 (resized).jpg 5 months later
My game also occasionally doesn't reset the drop targets like you've described. I've haven't had time to look into whether it's normal or not, so ill be interested to see what other owners say.
3 months later
Quoted from Kyrosfear:Hello gentlemen,
My F24 (shooter lane ramp lift) fuse keeps blowing after every couple of games. As you know, this ramp goes up during multiball and the auto plunger sends the balls underneath it. Mine works for a while, then the 1/2 amp SB fuse blows. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Kyros
Something is drawing too much current. I would ohm test that coil first. Resistance that is low would cause it to draw more current and blow the fuse.
8 months later
2 weeks later
Quoted from Troostr:Also, is this the memory battery? And how do I change it? It looks like a big watch type battery, but I don’t want to try to remove something there’s probably a right way to remove.
I don't remember the flap in the back having a spring. I think it was just gravity that held it down and the solenoid could lift it, but its been a couple of years since I've had it apart, so I could be wrong.
The Gottlieb system 3 batteries were the size of a quarter and soldered to the circuit board. If it's not dead, i would just leave it as they are unlikely to leak. Otherwise, I believe Pinball Resource has solder in replacements.
9 months later
9 months later
Quoted from billyseven:Howdy fellow Gottlieb Pinball enthusiasts, most notably Big Hurt fans!!!
New user to Pinside here, so's I might be posting in the wrong place for this... if so, let me know and I'll remove this post.
I have a longtime project Big Hurt whitewood playfield I've owned since the 90's and have been slowly whittling away at completing. Unfortunately it was missing the right side return ramp when I purchased it and have yet to stumble across a replacement including hitting up Steve Young at the Pinball resource.
I'm not one to part out games, I can be extremely patient while scavenging for parts, including having sourced an empty donor cab, harnesses, power supply, all boards, and now I finally have the game up and working, except... I still need the right side return ramp to make this project playable.
So if you have any suggestions, sources, or may even have one to sell, please hit me up!
Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help!
[quoted image]
What you're looking for is actually called a habitrail, not a ramp. This may help your Google searches.
6 months later
Quoted from Mgnickel:Has anyone had Frank Thomas autograph the top artwork part?
I have not, but it would be great if I could get it done.
2 weeks later
Quoted from rmillman:I needed to replace the ramp flap on the skill shot, I thought I would share what needed to be taken apart to do this.
In order to get to the ramp, you need to take this metal side plate off.
Using a combination of 1/4" wrench and 5/16" socket, I removed the 1 top nuts/bolts holding things together at the top
Used 1/4" socket to remove the 3 bottom wood screws
A little tricky but the bolt set marked T needs to be removed from both sides.
The e-clip (retaining ring) only needs to be removed from the side visible in the picture.
The brass / gold bolt marked B only needs to be removed from the side visible in the picture.
Once you remove those items, the side will come out.
After that, you can remove the ramp for flap surgery.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great pictures that I'm sure will be helpful as that flap tends to take a beating.
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