Quoted from Electronmagic:I just bought a Big Hurt so I'm in the club. Got it all apart now. The large center chrome piece behind the "warning track" on mine has the chrome peeling off from the ball hitting it. wondering if anyone has a spare sitting around?
You're just missing the rubber pad that goes in that spot. Should get one on there ASAP so you don't get that area banged up. Luckily you just need a pad and not a new piece or something $$.
I have one slingshot plastic. The lower piece has a crack starting but no pieces are broken off. The upper piece and stand offs are good. Free to a good home, send me a pm if you want it.
Quoted from Electronmagic:I just bought a Big Hurt so I'm in the club. Got it all apart now. The large center chrome piece behind the "warning track" on mine has the chrome peeling off from the ball hitting it. wondering if anyone has a spare sitting around?
To fix this correctly, you will need to have this piece chrome plated.
Thanks. Got the sticker on the way from pbr, If I ever find one of these with good chrome I'll swap it out.
Quoted from Electronmagic:Thanks. Got the sticker on the way from pbr, If I ever find one of these with good chrome I'll swap it out.
How much was it with shipping? I need one as well
Quoted from ChitownCraig:How much was it with shipping? I need one as well
That was sticker # 31544B. It was only $3. Not sure on the shipping as I bought a bunch of other stuff too and had it all shipped together.
Does anyone happen to have a picture of the fasteners for the blue pop bumper cap? I can't figure out how it attached to the pop bumper. Took a bunch of pic's before disassembly and of course didn't get this view.
Make a set of Stadium style lighting with warm, white LEDs and the gameplay is vastly improved. The playfield is so darkly colored and needs more than a few spotlights, which I tried. Big Hurt is a very fun game, loaded with great ball interaction toys and has great flow....IF you don't trap & catch the ball with the ridiculously easy Gottlieb flippers. Play the game on the fly or at least a No Catch Rule and it changes up the gameplay.
At some point I'll swap over to Williams flippers to eliminate this, but when playing alone it's not an issue. I also prefer using the Runs scoring vs the pinball scoring when I play 2 player against myself.
I'm not even at lighting improvements yet, other than replacing a few dead LED's and bulbs. Other things to deal with first. I've got a hacked-in switching power supply that's driving me nuts, because it makes navigating the menus a serious pain in the ass. Not to mention, I seriously dislike that all the logic power is always-on as long as the machine is plugged in. My Game Control Board is also hurting right now, the volume pot is bashed and is essentially made up of all dead-spots. So adjusting volume is equally annoying.
So...... I've got PCB's all drawn up and will be prototyping my own versions of them pretty darn fast. Going to order the bare boards this weekend probably.
Quoted from HHaase:I'm not even at lighting improvements yet, other than replacing a few dead LED's and bulbs. Other things to deal with first. I've got a hacked-in switching power supply that's driving me nuts, because it makes navigating the menus a serious pain in the ass. Not to mention, I seriously dislike that all the logic power is always-on as long as the machine is plugged in. My Game Control Board is also hurting right now, the volume pot is bashed and is essentially made up of all dead-spots. So adjusting volume is equally annoying.
So...... I've got PCB's all drawn up and will be prototyping my own versions of them pretty darn fast. Going to order the bare boards this weekend probably.
wow jeep us posted on your progress man!
good luck
Quoted from Bit_Image:Anyone have this plastic available for sale or know where I can purchase a replacement? Its the captive ball plastic cover on the left side. PBR and Macro dont have this.
there was a australian site who had some plastics but forgot the name
Hey guys. Relatively new member in over my head on a refurb. The mylar had to go. Simple as that. Using the proper techniques I managed only very minor insert graphics lifting but getting the glue off took it down to the paint. Waxed the hell out of it and while I'm sure it will play for a good long while, it just doesn't shine.
Looking for a new mylar. If anyone has a bead on one man I'd be indebted. The cut my own variety seems fraught with peril.
20180526_213133 (resized).jpgQuoted from jorro:wow jeep us posted on your progress man!
good luck
I'm keeping it a bit low key at the moment, but boards are ordered and starting to trickle in parts as well.
Power supplies are a bit different beast than usual so they'll need more rigorous testing.
-Hans
So, I just finished creating custom Big Hurt apron cards as commissioned by a Mikedenton49 (Big Hurt owner). I'm happy to make them available for $15 which includes postage to USA locations. I hand make these cards by printing them on a photo quality inkjet printer using both OEM inks and papers (i.e. no cheap knock off stuff). I then laminate them with 5mm clear gloss vinyl and cut to size.
I'm sure MD will testify to the quality of the cards, and maybe we can get him to post some pics installed on the pin.
As a FYI, I've designed with gold being the primary color. However, for my first set I changed to purple to match MD's powder coated rails. If you prefer another color than gold, let me know and I'm happy to work something up at no additional cost. Also, I just realized that I've not updated the design on my gold versions. The cards will have the same color pattern/framing as the purple ones pictured.
I typically ship 1-2 days from payment. Please PM me if you are interested.
BH1 (resized).jpgBH2 (resized).jpgBH_SM_purp (resized).jpgBH1_purp (resized).jpg
I will attest to Mr. Tantrums quality and customer service. One heck of a skilled guy.
I'll get some pics up when I can!
New member.
Bought from the "Wichita Auction" sight unseen. Paid $1600 and it came with:
1. Broken upper left flipper assembly (fixed, new retaining clip, cleaned)
2. Jammed right hole had 3 balls stuck (fixed, found large plastic rod jammed in assembly)
3. Left slingshot coil locked (new coil ordered)
4. 20+ lights out (new LEDs ordered)
5. 5 pinballs which made the game act strange (fixed, removed extra ball)
7. Several fuses blown
8. Generally filthy
My first machine is a well sorted T2, this is my second machine and I expected it to be rough.
Looking forward to my first pinball project because it is an under rated machine, especially for baseball fans.
joe
Quoted from slowmojo:New member.
Bought from the "Wichita Auction" sight unseen. Paid $1600 and it came with:
1. Broken upper left flipper assembly (fixed, new retaining clip, cleaned)
2. Jammed right hole had 3 balls stuck (fixed, found large plastic rod jammed in assembly)
3. Left slingshot coil locked (new coil ordered)
4. 20+ lights out (new LEDs ordered)
5. 5 pinballs which made the game act strange (fixed, removed extra ball)
7. Several fuses blown
8. Generally filthy
My first machine is a well sorted T2, this is my second machine and I expected it to be rough.
Looking forward to my first pinball project because it is an under rated machine, especially for baseball fans.
joe
Hopefully the optos down the "left field line" and "right field line" aren't flaky, but with the issues listed so far, those might need attention too. Good luck!
Well that was fun. Testing out my original 5v power supply on the bench and now I know why it was bypassed. All I got was a bright spark and a loud pop. I think it's ready for the trash.
Good news is my own supply so far is working, but I need a better power supply on my bench to properly load test it.
Quoted from Agent_Hero:More
Hopefully the optos down the "left field line" and "right field line" aren't flaky, but with the issues listed so far, those might need attention too. Good luck!
Thank you Agent_Hero, I spent an hour playing last night and the left field line optos reached a Billion (by hand) and the right field line seems to always load the bases...?
The only two new things I noticed:
1. During 4 ball multi-ball (not 2 or 3) the center ramp occasionally chatters like it is trying to raise up?
2. Drop targets remain down for long periods of time during modes, despite call-outs to "hit the drop target"?
Not sure what the behavior should be, just know this is a violent game and playing without glass can cause balls to hit the floor...joe
Quoted from slowmojo:1. During 4 ball multi-ball (not 2 or 3) the center ramp occasionally chatters like it is trying to raise up?
Check that the correct coil is installed for the ramp. Mine has some issues raising and at times does not raise, but the wrong (weaker) coil is installed. I have the new coil but haven't installed it yet. Will report back when I do with the results.
This is the other big hurt from the Wichita auction. I've put some serious elbow grease into it. Its fully decked out now with LEDs out the wazoo. Just a little bit further to go and I'd put it next to any big hurt there is.
Had over 36000 plays. No one ever so much as cracked two billion. After I fixed all the broken everything, I nailed down 3.2B and GC'd the game. Lol. It really is a fun pin.
20180629_125755 (resized).jpg20180704_110933 (resized).jpg20180706_141652 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Mikedenton49:This is the other big hurt from the Wichita auction. I've put some serious elbow grease into it. Its fully decked out now with LEDs out the wazoo. Just a little bit further to go and I'd put it next to any big hurt there is.
Had over 36000 plays. No one ever so much as cracked two billion. After I fixed all the broken everything, I nailed down 3.2B and GC'd the game. Lol. It really is a fun pin.
Did you paint or powdercoat them? Also how hard is it to take off the rails? I was thinking of powedercoating the rails in yellow to look like foul poles.
I've got a Big Hurt at work and it works pretty well except for the drop targets. When you start a new game, the drop targets try to reset but it's like the coil isn't pushing them up all the way. It will very quickly try to push them up multiple times, but since they aren't moving far enough up to click into their detent, they just fall back down again. Eventually the machine realizes it's not working and stops energizing the coi. Sometimes they will catch and stay up. I've taken it all apart and cleaned it well. I've also replace the coil sleeve. This made it better for a while (a few days), then it goes back to not resetting. Is there an adjustment I can make to help this? It's almost as though there's too much drag or the pulse activating the coil isn't long enough. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and what it took to fix it.
Powder coat all the way. Paint just will not give the durability required for years of good looking service I want it to have. Removal looks daunting, but if you take your time and follow the advice from vid1900 on doing so, it's a relative breeze.
You guys may get a kick out of this as well.
I asked Mr. Tantrum, the guy above who made instruction cards for me, just how far his talents go. He knocked one out of the park for me, pun intended. Check out these custom decals for the apron, standups, and drop targets. It looks pretty dang amazing.
While the cam doesn't pick it up, I also added a UV strip just above the drop targets which fluoresce beautifully.
With the exception of the mylar I asked about months ago, shes a polished gem of a bh. Thanks again Tantrum!
20180716_101344 (resized).jpg20180716_101704 (resized).jpgYou give me too much credit. The restoration of the machine shows off your vision and talents, and I was just a grunt who helped you execute a few things.
In my mind, the best customization is the two standup targets that are actually replica baseball cards. This works great both from a theme and gameplay perspective.
The purple is over the top beautiful, and the matching apron brings it all together. If there are other BH owners out there that would like it inquire about any of the custom target, apron, and/or coin insert graphics then PM me. I'll be happy to recolor if purple is not your thing and provide you a quote for making the items and/or sharing the original artwork with you so you can make you own if preferred.
PS: The cards that I originally posted in #170 are not accurate. I ended up having to resize them since the originals were a little small, so if you have tried to make them I apologize. Just let me know, and I can post new ones this weekend.
Quoted from Mikedenton49:You guys may get a kick out of this as well.
I asked Mr. Tantrum, the guy above who made instruction cards for me, just how far his talents go. He knocked one out of the park for me, pun intended. Check out these custom decals for the apron, standups, and drop targets. It looks pretty dang amazing.
While the cam doesn't pick it up, I also added a UV strip just above the drop targets which fluoresce beautifully.
With the exception of the mylar I asked about months ago, shes a polished gem of a bh. Thanks again Tantrum!
Excellent. I'm all for getting rid of the Reebok branding. Those bats are neat too--must be Breast Cancer Awareness month with Frank's black bat with pink accents.
Added over 6 years ago:Wow, $3,500. Good luck with the sale!
I don't think the loops on mine are scoring, are they optos that score them or are there switches hidden up the back somewhere?
Quoted from blue95:I don't think the loops on mine are scoring, are they optos that score them or are there switches hidden up the back somewhere?
Yes they are! In the metal guard rail
Can anyone here confirm that there is a diverter in the back and what it looks like? I see a spot where one looks to have been and a plug not plugged into anything. I believe it diverts sometimes to the upper kick out saucer?
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:Can anyone here confirm that there is a diverter in the back and what it looks like? I see a spot where one looks to have been and a plug not plugged into anything. I believe it diverts sometimes to the upper kick out saucer?
bump
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:Can anyone here confirm that there is a diverter in the back and what it looks like? I see a spot where one looks to have been and a plug not plugged into anything. I believe it diverts sometimes to the upper kick out saucer?
Yes, there is a diverter. It's basically a flap of sheet metal controlled by a solenoid if I remember. Here's a few grainy pics from when I had mine apart.
IMG_20171226_173520 (resized).jpgIMG_20171226_173529 (resized).jpgLast night I replace the random cool white LEDs I had in the GI with warm sunshine bulbs. When I first got Big Hurt I just used the white LEDs I had on hand, and at that time they were mostly cool white rejects I didn't like. But they were brighter than the dim regular bulbs, so it was an improvement.
I also waxed the playfield, ramps and wireforms and HOLY CRAP the game is wicked fast now. I don't think many pinheads know how fast and flowing Big Hurt is.
20181220_214742 (resized).jpgHaving problems with my 3 drop targets in BH.
All three targets have been replaced - mine were broken. I'm looking for a confirmation on the logic these drops.
For instance:
During the skill shot, two targets drop while the skill shot remains standing. I'm assuming this is correct and the way it should work every time - every ball.
Is there EVER a time when all 3 targets could be dropped without all three resetting?
Is there a good way to adjust the leaf switches for optimal, reliable use?
Because the switch closes when the target is hit, not when its down - it seems to be difficult to adjust each leaf switch for reliability. Should the switches have small caps on them to increase the switch closure time? I seem to be able to make targets drop without being sensed. Especially on fast hits. It doesn't matter how close I've adjusted the leaves.
These drops are VERY finnicky and seem to be very difficult to adjust to be working properly and reliably. Anyone have any tips on how to adjust them to work correctly EVERY time? Frustrating.
My game also occasionally doesn't reset the drop targets like you've described. I've haven't had time to look into whether it's normal or not, so ill be interested to see what other owners say.
Quoted from Queball:During the skill shot, two targets drop while the skill shot remains standing. I'm assuming this is correct and the way it should work every time - every ball.
That's correct, one of the targets will remain up for the skill shot and not the same one every time.
Quoted from Queball:Is there EVER a time when all 3 targets could be dropped without all three resetting?
Yes, the drops can all be down without resetting during some gameplay. I can't recall what game situations this occurs, but it does occur.
Got a Big Hurt (again) recently and the ramp for the skill shot had been "disabled" since the ramp flap had broken and it was causing plunges to hit the second black bar above the skill shot ramp flap area. Anyway, with the skill shot disabled the plunge is a full orbit shot to the lower left flipper which is more true to the playfield art and the game of baseball, if you think about it. The ball is put into play after the full orbit (a pitch) by the flipper bat which would be the correct positioning for a right handed hitter like the Big Hurt. The drop target skill shot is still in effect for this too. Seems like it would add a bit more speed to the start of the game too.
Mr_Tantrum comes through in the clutch with some nice decals. Since my apron is pretty nice, I asked if he could print the apron decals on magnet sheets. BIG thanks! I chose his '91 Upper Deck card (where he's angrily flipping off the cameraman) for the "Trade" stand-up target since he wasn't too happy when he left the Sox.
Big Hurt decal set (resized).jpg
Hard to zoom in...maybe this link will be better:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/tYTpjuN64n5sv4tD8
Hello gentlemen,
My F24 (shooter lane ramp lift) fuse keeps blowing after every couple of games. As you know, this ramp goes up during multiball and the auto plunger sends the balls underneath it. Mine works for a while, then the 1/2 amp SB fuse blows. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Kyros
Quoted from Kyrosfear:Hello gentlemen,
My F24 (shooter lane ramp lift) fuse keeps blowing after every couple of games. As you know, this ramp goes up during multiball and the auto plunger sends the balls underneath it. Mine works for a while, then the 1/2 amp SB fuse blows. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Kyros
Something is drawing too much current. I would ohm test that coil first. Resistance that is low would cause it to draw more current and blow the fuse.
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