(Topic ID: 203437)

Big Guns - several issues all at once

By PinballRusch

6 years ago


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  • 22 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by BigB
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Hi all. I’m a newbie here and just bought my first pin (Big Guns) on Monday. It seemed to work just fine at his place (except for the invincibility light would never shut off so it was removed). I play tested all the switches. Sound, display, cannons, kickers, drop targets all worked. Only issue seemed to be the one light bulb. Drove home and set up. Everything still worked fine.
Drop target banks at the top “reset” four times (every time) upon start-up which I thought was odd, but since they worked, I let it go.
Less than 24 hours later, the left gun would not load. Right gun still worked fine.
Then the center “king” playfield “gun” would not fire into the shoot. Then both drop target banks quit resetting. Now the right gun will not fire when you load the second ball on the right side (loads once but won’t fire). All audio and score board plays as if the mechanical guns sequence was working. Bagatelle still works too.

Previously had codes for all drop targets on the top left bank but those cleared after I cleaned them (item 2 below). Now I’ve got a switch 45 code that I didn’t have before. I think that is the Kings chamber far right switch.

What I’ve done so far with no change:
1. Unplugged and replugged all connectors in the head.
2. Removed the drop target banks, cleaned and reassembled them. (Both banks have new blue lake boards in them. The original Williams boards came with the machine.) Both banks were real dirty and I tightened the springs a bit. Manually, they work perfect. Just no power to the solenoids (didn’t meter them though as I don’t yet own one.)
3. Carefully vacuumed the cabinet and head.
4. Resoddered a diode that was broken off the top right flipper (which worked fine before and after)
5. Checked all fuses.
6. Checked the physical switch connections visually to see if they made contact (they did).
7. Restet the machine to factory settings using code 70.

I have the complete manual with schematics (not sure how to read them yet)

Seems like someone might have been trying to upgrade the machine as many bulbs are LED, but not all. Five bulbs are missing completely.

Not sure what to do at this point because it seems like a bigger issue than just a coil or something simple. Worried an entire board or more is failing. Are these things all related?

Also, it does still have the original battery holder for high score memory and it looks perfect with no signs of leaking.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. My four boys keep asking “did you fix it yet daddy?” And I’m starting to develop a sense of “did I just get suckered on my first machine?”

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
-Jesse

#2 6 years ago

Checked all fuses. Just to be sure. does this mean pulled and checked with a meter ?

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago

No, I didn’t meter anything yet as I don’t have a meter. I visually inspected them. Only ones that looked odd were the two 1/10 amp fuses. I removed those and they both look the same with a very thin filament and then about a 1/4” of microfiliment off centered.

#4 6 years ago

You can’t visually inspect fuses. You’ll bed a meter to properly check for continuity.

#5 6 years ago

Closely inspect J8 on the CPU. It is the plug that is kinda bottom center on the CPU. I have seen them corroded on several system 11's even if no real battery corrosion shows up on the holder. It will cause playfield switch issues.

#6 6 years ago

I will purchase a meter tomorrow... Black Friday special?!!
Dozer 1, also checked the J8 connector. Looks perfect.

Thanks for the ideas... please keep them coming. I really appreciate it!!

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#7 6 years ago

Just pulled batteries out, pulled J8 connector out and put back in (all while unplugged) and turned machine on. NEW message now. Only says “Adjust Failure”.
So, there’s progress... one way or the other )
Of course, I don’t know what this means.

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#8 6 years ago

Adjust failure means that the batteries are shot, so, please replace them and carefully look for corrosion on the board. If none, use the cabinet switches to set the game to Free Play and see if you can get it all working.

#9 6 years ago

New Batteries will give you this message.
Do you have a manual yet?
The 3 service buttons will get you into test mode and you can see whats wrong.

Attack the castle!

#10 6 years ago

Just put fresh batteries in and message remains.

I do have a manual, but don’t see anything in the “game adjustment procedure” section titled “adjust failure”

What should I be looking for?

#11 6 years ago

New batteries installed, that's good. Need to learn how to use the 3 buttons (switches) inside the coin door. The main thing is you need to get into the adjustments and set it to FREE PLAY. I am looking in the manual and it looks like section 1 is something you need to read over pretty closely. It shows all of the adjustments and also explains how to access them with the 3 buttons. It took me a little while to get that down too, but those buttons are very, very useful.

Diagnostics are accessed there too, and can help figure out many issues in the future.

#12 6 years ago

This looks like it could be a useful you tube vid.

#13 6 years ago

Alright, here’s the status:
(Need to purchase a meter yet tomorrow but did everything else listed previously in this thread.

Learning lots and appreciate all the advice. Means a lot as I’m new to this community!

1. Right cannon will load but not fire.
2. Left cannon will not load.
3. Center “load gun” triggers audio/display sequence and bagatelle but will not fire back out.
4. Both drop target banks do not pop up.
5. Red troll guards (behind drop target bank) stay lit all the time.
6. There is no “triggering of solenoids to eject a ball trapped on playfield. Not sure if that feature is part of this game.
7. Relay 1 is continuously clicking. (See photo of relay).

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#14 6 years ago

In system 11 games, that relay is used to use a single transistor to control two coils or flasher on the playfield. You have enough missing coils that I suspect you may be missing the high voltage to the coils. You can check that out when you get your voltmeter.

As for the stuck in light, is it a small #44 bulb, or a larger flasher bulb? If it is a flasher bulb, more than likely the drive transistor is shorted to ground. That will require board work to fix. For now you can just take the bulb out. You do not want to leave a flasher bulb on for more than a minute or two, as it will heat up and melt the plastic around it.

#15 6 years ago

The bulb is a 28 volt and removed. The plastic is already slightly melted on the underside (was like that when I bought it), but doesn’t affect the playfield surface.

Feel like the volt meter is going to be used all lot. Any recommendations on brand or feature list I should be looking for?

#16 6 years ago

As far as a meter, I'd go with something basic like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9QW620/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I know it's nowhere near top-of-the-line, but it should work perfectly fine for what you'll need it for. It has a diode test, audible (beep) continuity test, and pretty much everything you'll need for basic troubleshooting. It's not gonna be as perfectly accurate as a nice Fluke meter, but I've never owned one of them and have successfully troubleshooted plenty of pins with my no-frills multimeter.

It sounds like you may have a bad transistor causing the lights that are staying on. Once you get the meter, you can start troubleshooting some of these issues. Good luck!

#17 6 years ago

I just joined, what a fun game!
Some of my plastics are peeling up a little, like the printing is on the top of the plastic instead of the underside. Does this mean these are reproduction or were they originally like that? I attached a pic but it's hard to see...
Also, my switch 37 is missing the metal lever part. Marco doesn't list that one but it looks like the trough switch in my DESW. Is this the one I want?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5067-00

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#18 6 years ago

Try turning the machine on a and off a few times slowly.
Make sure the game roms are seated properly in the sockets. And make sure the batteries are making contact and giving the proper voltage . I had a big guns that had similar issues .
Dam pins are like cats . They hate car rides .

#19 6 years ago

Alright guys... we’re up and going again!
Thanks for everyone’s ideas.

My background in fuses was in the automotive world. When they blow, it’s pretty obvious.

These slow Blow fuses look a lot different when they are bad. I’ve got a meter now and now I’m going to try to go through the machine and figure out the lighting issue.

Super happy and my boys are busy wearing out the flippers again.

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#20 6 years ago

Just remember, there’s a reason why the fuse blew. Replacing the fuse doesn’t correct the problem. Lots of great people on here to help you though! Don’t worry you’re not alone

#21 6 years ago

My father in law (who brought his meter over today) has been a mechanic his whole life and also sells/services electric golf cars. He said some of the fuses looked like they might have been “warm” because the connections are dirty. He said shining them up with some scotch brite would ensure the fuses have good connections and won’t get warm like that. So I’m going to do that next.
Also played about 30 games since the new fuse and all is well. I even made the 3rd place top score... which I’m sure is laughable for most of you reading this thread.

#22 6 years ago

Welcome to the addiction. If you have any other problems or questions you can contact me. I live nearby and have owned a Big Guns in the past. Until then... Keep Flippin'

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