(Topic ID: 63757)

BIG GUNS CLUB - Save The Queen!

By Chitownpinball

7 years ago


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  • 705 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by BRW84
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There are 705 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 15.
#601 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Picked up a big guns last night. The trans light is attached to a piece of plexi instead of actual glass. Is this factory?
Or do I need a piece of glass?

Mine is plexi as well. I believe it is factory, as it hits that post where the bagatelle game is. My plexi has a blemish there, so I imagine they figured glass would break and went with plexi.

#602 9 months ago

Thanks. I kinda thought it may be factory.

Pretty neat system 11. LOVE the artwork too. Gonna turn out nice..

#603 9 months ago

This has gotta be the easiest shop ever. I can’t remember an easier one.

#604 9 months ago

Guys whats the best way to make the back ball popper more sensitive?

I cleaned the switch contacts. But still, sometimes when a ball lands in there it doesn’t pop.

Is this just a matter of more switch adjustments? Seems to be a pretty straight forward assembly.

#605 9 months ago

Wth is up w this “club”?

Anyone in the house??

#606 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys whats the best way to make the back ball popper more sensitive?
I cleaned the switch contacts. But still, sometimes when a ball lands in there it doesn’t pop.
Is this just a matter of more switch adjustments? Seems to be a pretty straight forward assembly.

Probably needs adjusted so it is more closed or over closed when the ball goes in there. The contacts could be shot as well. Could also be a switch diode failing, I suppose. Good solder joints on all the lugs?

#607 9 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Probably needs adjusted so it is more closed or over closed when the ball goes in there. The contacts could be shot as well. Could also be a switch diode failing, I suppose. Good solder joints on all the lugs?

Yeah, i think all solder is good. I just think it's a switch issue being adjusted.

#608 9 months ago

So what’s the trick to adjusting the drain popper?

When I tighten the two nuts up so that the cam works right, the popper is too low in the down position and the balls sit in the hole.

#609 9 months ago

Bump. What’s up w this “club”?

#610 9 months ago

I just joined the other day, but it's going to be MONTHS before I get to it. It is in good shape with some playfield wear. I'm swimming in projects right now.

Picked up an oem plastic set from eBay for like fifty bucks... surprising. I'm guessing this game is just a sleeper, like Fire.

Funny it always reminded me of Medieval Madness.

#611 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys whats the best way to make the back ball popper more sensitive?
I cleaned the switch contacts. But still, sometimes when a ball lands in there it doesn’t pop.
Is this just a matter of more switch adjustments? Seems to be a pretty straight forward assembly.

Does it not fire the solenoid at all, or is there just not as much action on the ball as you'd like? When I had my Big Guns I found that with the screws securing the bagatelle cover all the way tight it was held in far enough to impede the movement of the little red ball. I had to leave it a bit loose in order for it to have enough room to travel freely.

If it fires but not consistently, blame the switch IMO. Might try swapping it for another of the same type, too. I've had them get worn in a way that when I manually tested by dropping a ball on or moving the linkage with my finger they'd test fine, but in real world play there was enough mechanical resistance that the ball would settle on the edge of the linkage without triggering the switch, or the internal contacts wouldn't make a good connection when settled in the particular spot that was typical during regular play.

If you're confident the switch is good, check diodes, check the switch matrix stuff on the MPU, and check the wiring harness. I had intermittent triggering issues with the catapults in my Big Guns that drove me crazy for months... The culprit in the end was the contacts in the connector from the playfield harness to the backbox harness.

#612 9 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Does it not fire the solenoid at all, or is there just not as much action on the ball as you'd like? When I had my Big Guns I found that with the screws securing the bagatelle cover all the way tight it was held in far enough to impede the movement of the little red ball. I had to leave it a bit loose in order for it to have enough room to travel freely.
If it fires but not consistently, blame the switch IMO. Might try swapping it for another of the same type, too. I've had them get worn in a way that when I manually tested by dropping a ball on or moving the linkage with my finger they'd test fine, but in real world play there was enough mechanical resistance that the ball would settle on the edge of the linkage without triggering the switch, or the internal contacts wouldn't make a good connection when settled in the particular spot that was typical during regular play.

I should've clarified. It's the ball popper on the playfield below the backglass. The one for the third ball lock.

I adjusted it and it works fine now.

#613 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I should've clarified. It's the ball popper on the playfield below the backglass. The one for the third ball lock.
I adjusted it and it works fine now.

Ahh! Just edited my comment to add some more stuff... You might have the same problem I did in the switch wiring harness!

#614 9 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

I had intermittent triggering issues with the catapults in my Big Guns that drove me crazy for months... The culprit in the end was the contacts in the connector from the playfield harness to the backbox harness.

Occasionally, when i lock the first ball in one of the side catapaults, it fires out automatically.

#615 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Occasionally, when i lock the first ball in one of the side catapaults, it fires out automatically.

I had similar behavior with locks randomly not being detected, or balls being released at times they shouldn't have been.

#616 9 months ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

I just joined the other day, but it's going to be MONTHS before I get to it. It is in good shape with some playfield wear. I'm swimming in projects right now.
Picked up an oem plastic set from eBay for like fifty bucks... surprising. I'm guessing this game is just a sleeper, like Fire.
Funny it always reminded me of Medieval Madness.

I had mine on location for a while and people played the absolute crap out of it. It's a super challenging game set up right. Always felt like it would've benefited a lot from having a software ball save to give some more time in multiball.

I'd buy another one just for the art package and mechanisms, it's an incredible machine to look at. The art always evoked Black Knight 2000 for me, I like to think they're both part of the same setting. Tell me that isn't another castle from the same empire...

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1 week later
#617 8 months ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Mine is plexi as well. I believe it is factory, as it hits that post where the bagatelle game is. My plexi has a blemish there, so I imagine they figured glass would break and went with plexi.

Mine was glass but there was also a plastic cover over the bagatelle.

#618 8 months ago
Quoted from stumptown:

I had similar behavior with locks randomly not being detected, or balls being released at times they shouldn't have been.

Did you ever fix it? Mine does that occasionally, but not enough for me to go digging around for a solution.

#619 8 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Did you ever fix it? Mine does that occasionally, but not enough for me to go digging around for a solution.

I did, yeah! Mine started occasional and became more and more frequent over the years. It was resolved by replacing the contacts in the big Molex connect that goes from the playfield switch harness to the backbox. Pain in the ass to replace all of those but it got everything back to being reliable.

4 weeks later
#620 7 months ago

Hi gents
About to join the club, this weekend.

Is there a ROM version that resets the queens rescue bonus, like a tournament mode? I had a custom rom in my pinbot that reset the solar value for the same reason...without it, the GC score is pretty meaningless IMO.

#621 7 months ago

Back in this club with my 2nd Big Guns! It's in pretty decent shape, but has a couple of hacks I need to straighten out. I have a pic request if someone could help me out. On the drop targets in back, just closeups of the IDC plugs on the opto boards. It is the smaller IDC plug on both boards that I have the issues with. Also one of the ball trough switches under the PF. Would appreciate any help. Thanks!

**UPDATE** no longer needed, solved.

#622 7 months ago

BG owner here, replaced my Playfield lights with Comet LEDS and ever since been having these issues:
1. Top Ball Popper delayed to shoot, does not go into "Attack" mode when switch is activated. Switch works fine in Edge test
2. Right Troll not working right. When hitting the troll guards down they physically drop but do not register being hit in game also don't register in Switch Edge Test. They physically drop fine and come back up when played ball has ended so the solenoid is working fine. Troll does not activate when all 3 guards drop but instead activates randomly or when the Top Ball Popper finally fires. Troll switch registers just fine in the Switch Edge test.
Are these 2 related to a fuse or diode or such? I see no disconnected wires anywhere. Trying to figure out a common denominator here.

Thanks for any help

#623 7 months ago

I cannot imagine installing LED bulbs would cause any issues like that in a system 11. Could you have possibly tugged on 1 or more IDC connectors on the boards, while raising and lowering the PF? Make sure they are all squarely and fully installed. Both 4 pin IDC connectors on my drop target opto boards had wires pulled out and were quite messed up on the Big Guns I just got. Re-pinned them with crimp Molex plugs and now they register just fine.

#624 7 months ago
Quoted from TastyBlack:

1. Top Ball Popper delayed to shoot, does not go into "Attack" mode when switch is activated. Switch works fine in Edge test

I had this issue.

The ball would enter the saucer, but wouldn't activate. However, when i pressed down (using a finger) the saucer cup on switch test, it would.

The issue is the ball itself isn't pressing down far enough to activate the switch. So it's really just a switch adjustment. It's kinda a pain.

To verify: go into edge test and put a ball into the saucer and check results.

#625 7 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

To verify: go into edge test and put a ball into the saucer and check results.

I did that and a ball rolling in there does in fact register on the Switch Edge test. During gameplay a ball going in there does not start the "Attack" voice and it stalls out while the game tries to figure out where the ball is by firing different coils till it finally fires the ball popper sending it to left cannon.

I'll check the connectors.

Thanks for the help.

#626 7 months ago
Quoted from TastyBlack:

I did that and a ball rolling in there does in fact register on the Switch Edge test. During gameplay a ball going in there does not start the "Attack" voice and it stalls out while the game tries to figure out where the ball is by firing different coils till it finally fires the ball popper sending it to left cannon.
I'll check the connectors.
Thanks for the help.

Any switch issues in the trough? The game may not be sensing another ball being locked or sitting somewhere, hence thinking its not the correct time to fire the ball popper lock. Just an idea.

Although I’d think regardless of other balls being locked or in the trough, the ball would pop out.

#627 7 months ago

No issues with the trough, tested fine. System knows there are balls there or not and plays fine with them.
No issue with the left or right cannons. They lock just like they should and fire just fine. As well tested all their switches in the Edge test and they all registered. The only switches that did not register are the 3 right troll guards.
It's like you said though it's as if the system does not know there is a ball in the top popper lock as it does not do the "Attack" sound or fire it for a long time till the system starts looking for the ball I guess. Odd too since it registers on the edge test just fine with a ball in there.

* Just tested all the fuses and they are good. Checked all the connectors, none loose or discoed from raising/lowering playfield.
Can't see how the popper lock and right troll guards can be related. Not in the same switch row or column. Could be a coincidence they both stop working right at the same time?

* I just followed this guide on cleaning the troll guard sensor but still the same. Right Troll Guards are not sensed in Edge test. Had no problems with them before this multi issue started.

#628 7 months ago

Ok My issues are 1/2 solved.
I fixed the Top Popper Lock. I traced the switch wires with the matirx chart and found that the GRN-GRY wire on the Left Outlane (60) was touching the base of one of the new LEDs I put in. I moved that away and now the Top Popper Lock is working again 100%. Woot!

Now just got to work on why my Right Troll Guards and not working correctly. No response to Edge test on any of the 3. Does not set off Troll when they are dropped. Once ball drops to bottom, out of play they do reset back up physically. As mentioned above just finished cleaning the sensors, no go. Possible I need a new board for them?
Left Troll guards and Troll works 100% and since they are on the same row switch wise doubt it's a short like my last problem.

*So might be possible this issue also shorted out the right drop targets board as the Right Drop Target Top switch is on the same wire as the Left Outlane that had the short.

*SOLVED
Right Troll Guard issues were a wire that had come off the bottom of the molex on the Left guards. It jumps over the the right side drop targets so it was not getting power. Fixed that wire in the Molex and working 100%.

Thanks for all the troubleshooting help everyone. I learned a bunch from this so I'm stoked about that.

#629 7 months ago

Does anyone have a spare 3/4" ball for the bagatelle?

I joined the club last weekend and in transport it got lost somehow. I'd prefer to not have to buy a bag of 100 balls from amazon...although i guess i'll have a few spares

#630 7 months ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Does anyone have a spare 3/4" ball for the bagatelle?
I joined the club last weekend and in transport it got lost somehow. I'd prefer to not have to buy a bag of 100 balls from amazon...although i guess i'll have a few spares

I got the red one from marco.

#631 7 months ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I got the red one from marco.

welp - this seems like the right thing to do. LOL.

I think i'll just go back to bed now.

#632 7 months ago
Quoted from PotWasher:

...Want random extra ball? Upgrade to L8!

Is this the only fix for extra ball drop to go Random? Mine's stuck on far right for while now. Was middle for the longest time.

Couple upgrades I have done in the pics:
PinGuard Cabinet Protectors Red to match artwork
PinGulp Beverage Caddy Premium translucent Red to match artwork
Round Black Shooter (Plunger) Rod and new springs

I have upgraded to all LEDs on the under playfield and it's looks amazing! Will post pics once I get a decent shot.

1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg
#633 7 months ago

My LED pics. BB was already LED'd by previous owner and I like how he set it up so leaving that as is but added 2 Fire Bulbs for the 2 explosions and a Color changer bulb for the Eye.
I added all Comet LEDs to the under playfield (inserts): 2smd Frosted colored to insert color, 2 Flex green for the Force Field, 4smd red for the Trolls.
For the Troll Guards I went with Blue for outside guards, Ice Blue for the middle guards.
Playfield really Pops now!
*not the best pics as I'm still on an Iphone 6 :/

3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg Added 7 months ago:

BTW went with all Standard bulbs, not any Non-Ghosting bulbs and I never see ghosting bulbs on my machine so I'd say it's safe to go with paying the extra for those non-ghosting bulbs

Added 7 months ago:

*...safe to go WITHOUT paying the extra for those non-ghosting bulbs

4 weeks later
#634 6 months ago

anyone have a nice translite they'd sell me?

#635 6 months ago

I joined the club, but when bringing in the Big Guns the transport threw me a 41 & 42 PIA failure. Batteries are in a remote holder off of the board, though there is a bit of corrosion on the chip 41. 42 looks fine. Game played fine when I picked it up. I’m handy at things, but not at all with board work. I’ve wiggled connectors, unplugged and rep plugged them - seeing if any of that will fix it - it doesn’t. Thoughts?

#636 6 months ago
Quoted from Bospins:

anyone have a nice translite they'd sell me?

I have a nice FADED one I'd sell you...

#637 6 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

I have a nice FADED one I'd sell you...

I found an nos one. Thanks !

#638 6 months ago

Does anyone know where you can get a replacement center pop up post cover? My
Mech works fine but the cover itself has seen better days and could stand to be replaced. Marco seems to be out of stock, and googling has been fruitless.

#639 6 months ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Does anyone know where you can get a replacement center pop up post cover? My
Mech works fine but the cover itself has seen better days and could stand to be replaced. Marco seems to be out of stock, and googling has been fruitless.

...found the part number in the manual, googled THAT, and found both green and orange flavors on eBay.

I’m gonna go orange as I think this matches the theme better.

#640 6 months ago

Need a little help
Just joined the club but translite is faded and cabinet needs stencils. I can’t seem to find a translite or stencils for the cab.

1 month later
#641 5 months ago

What kind of rubber is supposed to go on these posts? According to the manual it's supposed to be a standard black post cover, but I don't know if that will fit, and what's currently on mine looks more like a sleeve than a rubber.

16100697712324328641425392061371 (resized).jpg
#642 5 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

What kind of rubber is supposed to go on these posts? According to the manual it's supposed to be a standard black post cover, but I don't know if that will fit, and what's currently on mine looks more like a sleeve than a rubber.
[quoted image]

You've got the right rubber. Remove the post from the playfield and you'll see that the post is smaller at that end.

#643 5 months ago

I guess it's obvious since I've already asked for some help about the game (Thanks for the answer jscaptura) but I've joined the club! Just got mine put back together after a having it torn apart for a few weeks. Cleaned it, rebuilt the flippers, replaced all the rubbers, replaced all the bulbs with LEDs, installed LED OCD board, among a bunch of other small things and repairs. Still need to fix a few minor issues (C-side Flashers aren't working, there's a light matrix issue, and a few other tiny problems) but otherwise it's playing super well! I don't usually go all out on pins like this, but this machine is extra special to me, as it's the very same one I grew up playing at the mall for the past 10 years. The first machine I ever got a high score on! This one is never leaving my collection.

PXL_20210110_040934628.NIGHT.jpg
1 week later
#644 5 months ago

So the person I bought my Big Guns from gave me a new set of plastics he found a few days ago, and I'm not sure where plastic 557-16 goes. I don't recall seeing it anywhere when I tore the game down for cleaning. Anyone know?

PXL_20210116_193405412 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#645 4 months ago

What plunger replaces the one in the King’s Chamber ball launcher? The manual lists the coil, but no part number for the plunger with nylon tip. Mine has a bad nylon tip and I’d like to replace it.

#646 4 months ago

I have a faded translite and yellowed Kings Chamber plastic left over from when I used to have this game. Make offer via PM!

20210124_091857 (resized).jpg20210124_091947 (resized).jpg
#647 4 months ago

I'm in the club!

It's not a well machine, needs a new MPU basically. But I think the rest of the machine looks complete and pretty tidy.

Looking forward to playing my first proper game, at the moment there is no music and only about 3 switches on the playfield work!

Cheers

Cris

#648 4 months ago
Quoted from jscaptura:

What plunger replaces the one in the King’s Chamber ball launcher? The manual lists the coil, but no part number for the plunger with nylon tip. Mine has a bad nylon tip and I’d like to replace it.

I'd like to know too, mine's worn out as well. Surprised that tiny plastic ball puts so much wear on it.

#649 4 months ago
Quoted from mystman12:

I'd like to know too, mine's worn out as well. Surprised that tiny plastic ball puts so much wear on it.

Same, I could use a new one as well. Thanks

1 week later
#650 4 months ago

Just wanted to note this here, just in case anyone needs to fix the Opto Board on the Drop Targets on their Big Guns, this part is a drop in replacement for the opto element on the board labelled C-11318 thought it might come in handy for someone in the future. I've made the repair using this part today and it seems to work fine.

I found the original part number hard to find, and expensive when I did find it.

https://uk.farnell.com/tt-electronics-optek-technology/opb825/opto-switch-slotted/dp/1497925?CMP=i-bf9f-00001000

Cheers

Cris

There are 705 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 15.

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