(Topic ID: 196966)

Big Game does not energize solenoids on game start-up

By L_satan

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by frunch
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 1 year ago

I've got power, and went over the wiring.
Rebuilt rectifier board.
Everything cycles and tests as it should, but I am overlooking something.
Anyone have any ideas?

#2 1 year ago

Is the hold power EOS switch working properly down on the flipper assembly? If the game doesnt know to go into the low hold power mode it'll pull too much power and blow the fuse.

#3 1 year ago

It blows the moment I hit the flipper button. Coil doesn't even energize; or rather, draw the plunger into the coil.

#4 1 year ago

When I tap the button, quickly, nothing happens, and the fuse does not blow. Looks like it gets hot, but doesn't blow. If I hold the button in for almost a second, the fuse goes.
I looked down the threads of Pinside, and did find wiring examples for the flippers posted. A little hard to see, but mine wiring looks correct. EOS looks good as well.

#5 1 year ago

Test the flipper button switch(s) and the EOS by the flipper mechanism for continuity. Just because they look good doesnt mean they are good. Manually move the flipper prawl and make sure it hits the EOS properly and the switch moves and behaves like its supposed to. In any case, it should be quick and easy to rule that out right away.

#6 1 year ago

One other quick thought, if your flipper sleeve is warped due to the coil overheating or binding for other mechanical reasons it will be hard to move the flipper, if at all. If its tough to move by hand then that could be your problem (flipper mech is never moving at all to engage the EOS which is then tripping the fuse). New sleeve and alignment might fix the issue if you see that sort of sticking.

#7 1 year ago

Thanks, Scott.
I believe something else is at issue.
I need to test the diodes, they could be goofy.
I've got decent movement of everything--I actually rebuilt all the flippers, replacing one coil. Even polished the mounting brackets.
Just can't think of the the issue.

#8 1 year ago

Good luck, and Please post when you figure it out!

#9 1 year ago

compare the coil diodes of the right vs. left. If there is a discrepancy, replace.
compare the Ohm resistance between the coil, i'm betting you have a shorted coil.

If those two things check out, then you have a short in your wiring somewhere.

Also, since you had your mechs out, i'm guessing your had to resolder the wires back. Double check your work.

#10 1 year ago

The left flipper button now re-starts the machine.
Flipper solenoids, wiring, diodes, all correct.
decent movement on the plungers by hand.
Multi-meter tested.

Any ideas on the short?
why this is happening?

Thank you Scott and Brenna.


#11 1 year ago

I did something a little fancy.
I Added a plug section on to the rectifier board I rebuilt.
I think this was smart.
Soldering the transformer to the rectifier sucks.
This will make repairs easier.

If any of you regulars know this is dumb; please let me know.

I even swapped the S driver with a new S driver; same issue.
Game re-boots, when I hold the left flipper button in for half a second.
Tapping it, all the lights dim drastically.


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#12 1 year ago

Now I've goofed it up even more somehow.
No solenoid action, save the right flipper on game start-up.

#13 1 year ago

Morning bump

#14 1 year ago

Here is something.
The only wire discrepancy I can see. Recrimped the wires as they were, but it looks like something extra on the machine, compared to the schematics.

Anyone willing to take a photo of their Big Game Power Rectifier plugs for comparison?

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#15 1 year ago

Pics, anyone?

#16 1 year ago

Here is J1.
This looks good, I believe.

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#17 1 year ago

You may want to ask for pics over at the Big Game club here at pinside.

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