(Topic ID: 304340)

Big Game Connectors Help

By SJ23

12 days ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Rikoshay
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

C3E65A6E-7A13-42B8-B0EB-F38BCC4988B7 (resized).jpeg
3A7CFAFA-B8A3-4986-A112-E4A3A0FCA428 (resized).jpeg
0758298B-C251-40EA-B429-D586F8927EBE (resized).jpeg
Capture1 (resized).PNG
20211126_142926 (resized).jpg
20211126_142931 (resized).jpg
20211126_143053 (resized).jpg
16372831267525372895694677045540 (resized).jpg
20211118_171911 (resized).jpg
20211118_162127 (resized).jpg
20211118_162111 (resized).jpg
20211118_162100 (resized).jpg

#1 12 days ago

New to repairing - please dumb it down for me as much as possible

I'm replacing the burnt connectors to the rectifier board. What is going on here? And what do I do about it?

20211118_162100 (resized).jpg20211118_162111 (resized).jpg20211118_162127 (resized).jpg
#2 12 days ago

Dumb it down for us, which connector is it?

#3 12 days ago

Looks like pins 1 & 8 have been jumpered.
Pins 1 & 8 are burnt at the connecter. Too much heat. You'll want to replace the header pins on the board and the connector. Verify the wiring is correct, looks like it may have been altered.
Great Plains Electronics is typically a good source of parts.
If you need an excellent repair person ChrisHibler does excellent work.

#4 12 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Dumb it down for us, which connector is it?

Lol sorry!

20211118_171911 (resized).jpg

#5 12 days ago

Since it's a new Xpin board I don't think you'll need to replace the header pins. Just the connector.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=215
Check your spacing.

#6 12 days ago

She already has the tools needed, seems she's asking for the correct wiring setup? If I'm reading you correctly?

#7 12 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

She already has the tools needed, seems she's asking for the correct wiring setup? If I'm reading you correctly?

Yes please.

#8 12 days ago

I can grab a pic when I get home if no one else does first.

#9 12 days ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/big-game-club-the-safari-has-started/page/10#post-3469571

Of course cottonm4 would have taken a pic at some point

Looks like you just need to repin the connector and lose the big honkin yellow jumpers.

#10 12 days ago

The following is from the Big Game Schematics: https://www.ipdb.org/files/249/Stern_1980_Big_Game_Schematics_And_Wiring_Diagrams_Hi_resolution.pdf

J1 pin 1 = RED (Ground) Pin 1 also joins to pin 2 and hopefully/ideally it is done on the rear of rectifier board, assuming the previous owner didn't know this or it wasn't done they looked at the schematics and saw J1 is joined to J2 and jumped it themselves in the connector?
Also what was done to pin pins 5 & 8.

J1 pin 2 = continuity to pin 1 (Ground)

J1 pin 3 = BLUE (Feature Lamp Supply 5.4 VDC) Also joins to pin 7

J1 pin 4 = Key (Notice a blanking plug on the underside of the connector, So connector only seats one way, separating it from other plug connections)

J1 pin 5 = WHITE (General Illumination Supply 7.3 VAC) Also joins to Pin 8

J1 pin 6 = BLUE with WHITE tracer (Solenoid Supply 43 VDC) But I see in your pic it has a BROWN with a WHITE tracer, could be an error on the schematics or Stern changed the colour wire at that time?

J1 pin 7 = BLUE (Feature Lamp Supply 5.4 VDC) As above joins to pin 3

J1 pin 8 = WHITE (General Illumination Supply 5.4 VDC) As above joins to pin 5

Don't worry that you have 9 pins on your rectifier board but only an 8 pin plug.
Later games used a 9 pin header so make sure the keying plug is in Pin 4 and pin 9 is not used in your case.

#11 12 days ago

Every classic Stern will be the same. Put some LEDs in the backbox (at least) to lighten the load. And get rid of those jumpers.

#12 12 days ago

I mean no offence here, but the crimping tool you have is very basic and wont imo give the 'correct' crimp required.
Crimping tools can be quite expensive.
Whilst not top of the range, will give a better crimp: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT

To remove the pin/wire from the housing you simple push down on the locking tab as seen where the burn marks are, then pull on the wire to remove.

But if you are intent on crimping new pins into a new connector, you can use a 9 pin connector housing so the 9th pin isn't left exposed, up to you.

I suggest using Trifurcon pins as seen here: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113
These pins have 3 areas of contact opposed to one on the original pins.

8 Pin housing with locking ramp, ignore the locking ramp as it won't be used in your case:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-08-LR

9 pin housing with locking ramp, ignore the locking ramp as it won't be used in your case:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-09-LR

The burn marks are cosmetic and don't affect the connection. You may be able to leave as is?
What is suspect is where an additional wire has been added to the original wire and how it is making connection/crimped.....they may have been soldered.
But the idea that has been incorporated is to share the load of current through 2 pins instead of one, but essentially going back to one wire.
What may have been compromised is not using new pins, the original pins having got very hot causing the tension in the spring of the contact to weaken and increase resistance causing the generation of heat.

Anyway, that's my rant, didn't mean to over load you with detail, but starting out can be tricky and confusing.

#13 12 days ago

Just like this.

16372831267525372895694677045540 (resized).jpg
#14 12 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

I mean no offence here, but the crimping tool you have is very basic and wont imo give the 'correct' crimp required.
Crimping tools can be quite expensive.
Whilst not top of the range, will give a better crimp: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT
To remove the pin/wire from the housing you simple push down on the locking tab as seen where the burn marks are, then pull on the wire to remove.
But if you are intent on crimping new pins into a new connector, you can use a 9 pin connector housing so the 9th pin isn't left exposed, up to you.
I suggest using Trifurcon pins as seen here: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0113
These pins have 3 areas of contact opposed to one on the original pins.
8 Pin housing with locking ramp, ignore the locking ramp as it won't be used in your case:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-08-LR
9 pin housing with locking ramp, ignore the locking ramp as it won't be used in your case:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CS156-09-LR
The burn marks are cosmetic and don't affect the connection. You may be able to leave as is?
What is suspect is where an additional wire has been added to the original wire and how it is making connection/crimped.....they may have been soldered.
But the idea that has been incorporated is to share the load of current through 2 pins instead of one, but essentially going back to one wire.
What may have been compromised is not using new pins, the original pins having got very hot causing the tension in the spring of the contact to weaken and increase resistance causing the generation of heat.
Anyway, that's my rant, didn't mean to over load you with detail, but starting out can be tricky and confusing.

Thank you for the response. I have this crimper & it seems pretty nice? amazon.com link »

Thanks for the links to all the parts, with all my 80's pins & their burnt connectors I better start buying in bulk!

#15 12 days ago

Those yellow jumper wires add extra current capacity on the G.I connectors.
Bally used those extra pins to share/split the G.I current load to the playfield. Stern chose not to, to save a few cents on wire.

You can argue the execution all you want but they are a worthwhile redundancy measure in my opinion. Just like all those ground mods people religiously do.

#16 12 days ago
Quoted from SJ23:

Thank you for the response. I have this crimper & it seems pretty nice? amazon.com link »
Thanks for the links to all the parts, with all my 80's pins & their burnt connectors I better start buying in bulk!

Yes that crimper will do fine, but may wear the crimping head, depending on how many crimps you will be doing, which I see is able to be swapped out.
Those 2 wire gauge sizes in that one head will do all you need.
I use this: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/7106499
purely because I don't like ratchet types, but as you can see the costs of crimping tools goes quite high, each to their own and how deep your pockets are.

#17 5 days ago

Well, I killed it. Repinned connectors, took the yellow jumper out. Game turned on for half a second & died. Not turning on at all now.

I'll be in mourning today...and back on google/pinside/pinwiki all day tomorrow to find out what the hell I did

#18 5 days ago

are all the fuses on the rectifier board intact?

can you post a pic of your repinned connector?

#19 4 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

are all the fuses on the rectifier board intact?
can you post a pic of your repinned connector?

The new rectifier board blows the 6th fuse (3A slow-blow) when I turn it on.

20211126_142926 (resized).jpg20211126_142931 (resized).jpg20211126_143053 (resized).jpg
#20 4 days ago
Quoted from SJ23:

The new rectifier board blows the 6th fuse (3A slow-blow) when I turn it on

That's your incoming power your on off switch might be bad or wired wrong or the line filter and mov if it's got one might be bad as well. I suppose it's possible that the transformer is bad but they are very reliable. You could have a bad connection into the connector too from the line voltage.

#21 4 days ago
Quoted from SJ23:

The new rectifier board blows the 6th fuse (3A slow-blow) when I turn it on.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Your last three connectors are off by one space. See the picture.

It's a 9 pin connector that you have. the original was an 8 pin.

Shift those three all one space closer to the center.

Capture1 (resized).PNG

#22 3 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Your last three connectors are off by one space. See the picture.
It's a 9 pin connector that you have. the original was an 8 pin.
Shift those three all one space closer to the center.
[quoted image]

Moved those over. Still blew the 6th fuse.
The old board wasn't blowing the fuse.

#23 3 days ago
0758298B-C251-40EA-B429-D586F8927EBE (resized).jpeg3A7CFAFA-B8A3-4986-A112-E4A3A0FCA428 (resized).jpegC3E65A6E-7A13-42B8-B0EB-F38BCC4988B7 (resized).jpeg
#24 3 days ago

Maybe those will help. And triple check you wired the new rectifier board correctly after verifying you have your connectors pinned correctly.

#25 3 days ago

Yeah I'd be looking at the back of the rectifier

#26 3 days ago

as mentioned in #20, fuse F6 is related to connector J2 pins 6 & 7.

check you connections from the transformer to connectors E1 & E2 on the rectifier board.

forget wire colours and sizes for the moment, hoping no one in the past has swapped out wires and used thin where thick should be?

Rectifier Board to Transformer:

E1 = Lug 5 AC active
E2 = Lug 1 AC neutral

E3 = Lug 2 Solenoid Active
E4 = Lug 6 Solenoid Neutral

E5 = Lug 8 Display Active
E6 = Lug 10 Display Neutral

E7 = Lug 17 General Illumination Active
E8 = Lug 18 General Illumination Neutral

E9 = Lug 13 Switched Illumination Active
E10 = Lug 14 Switched Illumination Neutral

E11 = Lug 15 Input for 5V Regulator Active
E12 = Lug 16 Input for 5V Regulator Neutral

If all is correct then you need to look at where the mains comes in, as that is what is causing the fuse F3 to go open.
From the plug that goes into your wall plate 3 wires join directly to the input side of the line filter, and the active and neutral to a varistor.
If either/both the line filter and varistor are shorted this will cause the fuse F3 to go open.
After the line filter both the active and neutral lines go the power on/off switch then to connector J2 pins 6 & 7.

#27 3 days ago

looking at your wiring of J1 in #you put 43VDC on the switched illumination bus so it's a blessing in disguise that your AC fuse blew first (hopefully) or you'd have blown all your switched bulbs.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside