(Topic ID: 85981)

Big Game Club - The Safari has started!

By Xenon75

10 years ago


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Post #1528 New code!! Posted by slochar (2 years ago)

Post #1547 Updated Roms change log Posted by chuckwurt (2 years ago)


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#318 8 years ago

Can I join this club with my newly acquired Big Game?

This was not one of these," hey, some guy has on old pin in his garage that he wants to get rid of" deals. This was me actively looking for a BG. After considering Mata Hari, Joker Poker, Fire, Sinbad and a few early SS pins, BG went on my wish list. I suppose that as far as wish lists go I was lucky because I have only been looking for a BG for about 6 months.

After watching a lot of youtube pinball videos for almost a year and thinking I want this pin, or I want that pin, eventually, I came to the conclusion that BG is the pin I want. A few weeks ago I got lucky when I was doing a semi-regular within-driving-distance-Craigslist-search turned up a BG in Oklahoma City. The ad had been up for 19 days. And he still had it ! And he was willing to negotiate on price. I felt like I had been rained on by the pinball gods. I went to see and the game checked out. So, for $30.00 worth of gas and 6 hours of time I was home with a BG in the house at a decent price.

I have had it since Thanksgiving and have been going through all the cleanup stuff that needed done. It was a dirty machine. I have overhauled the pop bumpers, removed and cleaned the drop targets, re-sleeved all the coils and rebuilt the flippers with all new parts. I have 3' levelers on and have the back jacked up all the way and the fronts all the way down. It is steep slope and it plays fast. No. It plays very fast. And I'm loving it.

I have made a couple of mods for it and have more planned.

1) I have made a polycarbonate play field protector and now that I have a few hours of playtime I am very happy with the results. All the sunken inserts are covered up and the ball does not get hung up by play field imperfections. Eventually, I would like to restore the play field and clear coat but my custom made (ahh...homemade protector) means I get to really enjoy the game NOW!

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2) I read someone else's post about the teardrop breaking off of one of the plastics by the 1-2-3 drop target. Someone else suggested some sort of washer. Because this PF plastic is close to the spinner a washer would not work. I made a protector from some scrap poly that completely surrounds the plastic. You see it with the white protective paper still on.

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3) That big piece of plastic in the upper left by the BIGGAME lights look like it takes a lot heat from the four bulbs it covers and mine was/and is still warped badly. So, from more scrap poly, I made profile of that plastic and raised it up from the lights. Like this:

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I also see where someone else is (still) looking for a spinner. Since Stern shared a lot with Bally, I may have found a spinner here. No guarantees but if you need a spinner it might be worth it to call and get some measurements.

Thanks for reading.

http://www.lakesidepinballparts.com/playfield.html
http://www.lakesidepinballparts.com/blya3460.jpg

#321 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Can you show us what kind of material you used? Is it hard or flexible? What thickness? How does the ball interact with the rollovers?
thanks,
-mof

The material used is polycarbonate, the same stuff like the play field protectors for some pins that are professionally made. Polycarbonate is the scientific name for the material. You will probably recognize the brand name of Lexan. Or Macrolon.

For the play field and the teardrop plastic I used .030 thick Macrolon. For the profile piece I made for the big plastic I used .050 thick material. .030 thick is about as thick as I would want to go for the play field. Any thicker and that and you are going to start messing with how the ball interacts with the play field parts, IMO.

The poly is very flexible. It is tough stuff. It does not crack or tear. But it does scratch easily. I already have some scratches on mine just from handling it so much while I was getting it fitted. I don't know how many hours, days, weeks, or months of game play I will get before it gets ugly from scratches but some time out there in the future I will probably need to cut another one. One thing is certain, though. I don't want to be one using some old worn out, dinged up ball or it will scratch the living daylights out of it. I figure I will replace the ball once a month just to be safe.

For the rollovers, I had to knock out the original rollovers and rout out matching holes in the poly and then I set the new rollovers to match the height/thickness of the poly. The ball rolls smoothly over the rollovers. I, also, had to re-adjust the points/switches to compensate for raising the rollover.

The rollovers work fine with one exception with the three rollovers in the upper right orbit (and I don't think my play field protector is causing the problem).

What I am seeing is if the ball moves too fast over these three rollovers and the ball is riding the outside of the orbit lane the ball will only touch the the edge of the rollover star and not push it down far enough to make contact and give me score points. As I said, I think this would be happening even if I had not put the protector down. It's like the rollover star needs to be peeking out just a bit more from the play field. What I am going to try is take my old stars and lengthen the shaft by using two stars to make one and see if I can raise the star up higher from the play field. Will that work? Don't know. And it will be a few weeks before I have time with that.

Other that that one issue, the protector is working fantastically. With the money I spent to make it happen, it damn sure needed to perform. The material cost $40.00. And I had to buy two different Dremel Tools to make the cuts. The Dremel Tools were pawn shop bargains. One cost me $30.00. The other Dremel that I needed to rout the rollover holes was discontinued and I was real lucky to find one in a pawn shop for $35.00. But the one cutting bit I needed only comes as a kit of five bits from Amazon and the bits cost another $35.00. So, to cut five holes cost me $70.00 (sigh). For the love of the game, right

#323 8 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Very nice Big Game cottonm4! Very handy with home remedies also.
Mine's a bit of a beater, strictly players condition. But..
I LOVE this game, it was also my first. I have had it over two years now and still play it regularly. It will never leave.
Hope you enjoy yours as much as I have mine.
Many happy high scores my friend and congrats!

Thanks man. Mine will never leave, either. Mine is a player's condition, too. Some inserts are sunken and cupped real bad. The paint is alligatored and there is some slight planking. The play field protector helps hide the paint flaws and makes a smooth play field.

I know I am going to get myself buried in it price wise Today, I ordered a new play field glass. And I need a back glass that is not all flaked. I'm also going to light it up with LEDs.

Here is a another mod I did: My mini-post up between the spinners was bent back from years of ball impact. It had cut into the play field and the threaded shaft was bent. I replaced it with a more robust post and locked it in with a T-nut from the lower side of the play field.

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#325 8 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

BG resto has back glasses for sale. This game looks great with LEDs if you use warm white and color match the inserts. I went a little crazy with LEDs in mine, but I've gotten mostly good feedback on them from people that have seen it in person.
I'm way under water on my big game too. I can't help it, I just love it so much! Haha

Yeah, I saw your posts with your LEDs and that inspired me I like your orange for the bingo cards. But I'm thinking I want to use orange for all the BIGGAME letters and maybe use Cyan for the bingo cards. Any feed back for color and brightness choices you would be willing to offer would be much appreciated.

#327 8 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have frosted amber/orange intense brightness bulbs. I got standard orange bulbs but they were too dim. These are much better.

I am not sure how the cyan ones usually look but I bet those would look good too in the same type bulb and frosted.

Are you having good luck with the Comet bulbs?

#329 8 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

For sure. Not sure I would ever get another brand. They have tons to choose from and Art's customer service is top notch. I have only had a couple bulbs go bad on me and Art replaced them for free in my next order. I've bought 100s of bulbs from him.

1) Art does not have a phone number that I can find. If his service is top notch, I am safe to assume he works his emails promptly?

2) Are you using any of the non-ghosting bulbs? Or do "regular" LEDs work OK.

3) Have you already sent your back glass to BG Resto? If so, are you happy with the results? Mine has some flaking but all of the paint all across the glass shows hairline cracks.

#331 8 years ago

Well, my play field lights just went out after some spirited playing. Flicker, dim, flicker, dim, flicker, off. Phooey.

I'll have to trouble shoot that before progressing. It might be an excuse to get that Alltek lamp board. The money train is starting to gather speed as it leaves the station

One thing is for sure if you have a pinball machine: You must have a sense of humor.

4 months later
#338 7 years ago

I made a mod for my Big Game you all might be interested in. Since BG is a wide body it has a heavy play field to lift and support. Somewhere a few months ago I read where you should turn the sharp tip of the play field prop stick under as it has a habit of eating they the play field. I did that but it was not enough.

The play field sags like crazy when using the prop stick that I started using my vacuum cleaner hose wands to prop up the play field. That has problems, as well, so I came up with a permanent solution.

I went the the hardware store and bought some 3/4 inch copper plumbing tubing and came up with this for a play field prop. On the lower end is a unit made of plywood to hold the prop into position. To the under side of the play field I attached a PVC end cap with three screws.

It works like a charm. The play field has good solid support in the center and does not sag. I made it so the play field is lifted up more than with the factory prop. The play field is now lifted up higher and the prop stick is no longer in the way which makes it easier to do work on the lower side.

It cost me about $15.00 to build. I had to drill two holes in the cabinet cross-support for the plywood and three screws in the lower side of play field for the PVC end cap. Remove the end cap and the plywood and you will never know it was there.

This has worked so well that I have made similar props for my two other pins.

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2 months later
#343 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I know we have talked about this before, but has anyone came up with a way to have the bingo card lights more reliable and have a stronger connection? I have tried cleaning the sockets with no luck. I have an extra set of the socket boxes, but I assume those are going to be flaky too if I put those in.
Has anyone tried to rig up individual sockets, or is there a way to reliably service the existing socket boxes?

I stripped my BG down and sent the play field out for restore and clearcoat so I won't have a solid answer on this for awhile, but I have thought on this alot and will share what I am doing and thinking.

1st) I removed my socket assemblies from the wiring harness and ran them thru my tumbler to try and remove crap, corrosion, and just shine them up. Will this help? It will several months before my play field comes back before I can speak with confidence. But at least they are shiny

2nd) Today, I just finished with soldering the sockets to the metal plate so I can at least install and remove a bulb without the socket spinning on me. I have a big 100 watt soldering iron so doing this task was not a problem. Will it help with connectivity? Won't know until I get my game back together. But it sure sounds good

Before you solder them, if you do, you will need to try and rotate them as you will read about below.

3rd) Follow my thinking here: If you are like me you have one of those abrasive sticks that you spin inside the socket to clean it up. You have one, correct? And so you sand all the crap from the inside. And you make sure that little spring loaded nub for the positive wire is nice and shiny, correct? And you still have problems, correct?

I got to thinking on this several months ago so follow my logic: You push your #44 bulb into the socket and give it a twist and lock in the two small tangs on the side of the bulb. Where are your contact points? Aha. Gotcha didn't I?

We like to think of the inside of the socket as being one big contact point and it is to a degree. But in reality there are three contact points on the bulb and socket. The bottom of the bulb with the soft metal is your positive contact point and has be be clean. And the two tangs on the side of the bulb are the negative contact points.

Try taking a small round file and make a couple of light passes on the socket area where the bulb tangs lock in and run some sandpaper or a wire brush across those tangs on the bulb. Now you have three clean contact points. When I did this to some of my dirty sockets my lights-out problem went away.

You may need to rotate your sockets on those bingo card bulb holders so you can access them from the open ends with a small file. You might even be able to do this with a pipe cleaner.

************************************

On the other hand, let's say you want to make some new bingo card bulb holders. I have thought about that a lot, too. And if I still have problem when I get my BG back together and want new sockets, there are three ways to do it.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

FIRST WAY

1) If you have a spare set of bingo card bulb holders you can take this risk---because it might not work Get your grinder and grind off that spring loaded button on the bottom of the socket. Next, drill the brass ring that holds the socket to the bulb holder. This should release the socket from the holder. Repeat eight more times.

2) For this step, you really should have a drill press and some clamps. Drill out all nine holes in the holder to a size that will a #44 bulb socket to pass thru the holder.

3) Get new #44 sockets that are the same barrel length as the ones you just removed. You will want sockets with the longer bendable tabs. Bend the tab back and flatten it out perpendicular to the socket and slide this into the hole you just enlarged in the holder. Do this with eight more sockets.

4) You will need to align and trim the socket tabs so they will all fit to the holder (I'm fairly certain there will be enough room).

5a) You can now solder all the tabs to the holder

or

5b) You can match drill a small hold in the tab and the holder and screw them together with a sheet metal screw, or better yet, a machine screw and nut. And for extra measure, solder this as well.

5c) Now, if you have a socket go bad in the future, you can remove and replace.
-------------------

SECOND WAY

1) Go to a sheet metal shop and have the shop bend up some new holders for you.

2) Measure and drill nine socket holes in your new holder and attach new sockets as listed above.
---------------------------

THIRD WAY

If you do not have access to a sheet metal shop, or any other way to make 90 degree bends in sheet metal, then ......

1) Procure three squares of sheet metal the same size as the factory bulb holder. Actually, they will not be square. They need to be rectangles. Where the factory angles are bent and screw to the play field, you will need to cut two pieces of wood that will screw to the play field and then you will screw your new rectangles (after you have drilled an installed new sockets talked above) to your wooden standoffs.

Now solder all your wires back on.

Will any of the above work? Other than cleaning the sockets and bulbs tangs which has worked for me, I don't know. I have not tried installing new sockets or building from scratch, but at the risk of sounding rather cheeky, if you are a halfway decent technician I think you could do either #1, #2, or #3 and have good results.

P.S. If anyone tries this on their set of BG factory bingo card bulb holders and you screw it up, I am not responsible.

Good Luck.

EDIT: REDKETCHUP, I think #2 or #3 above could be done with 555s

#346 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Whoa baby. Thanks for the info!
I do have a spare set of socket holders. I'm gonna see how cleaned up I can get them and try them out. Those other solutions you listed I have no skills whatsoever to do those. Haha

Keep us posted on how it works.

#347 7 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

I was thinking something like that...

Red Ketchup, can you remove the 555 holders and show a pic of just the holes in the circuit board ?

Would you be willing to remove that board from your play field and take a pic from the side showing both the bulb holder and the bulb poking thru the board?

What would we need to do? Get a square of blank circuit board, drill some locking type holes and put down some copper tape?

#349 7 years ago

We would need a board that looks something like this but with dimensions for Big Game. This board is for Bally Kiss and the holes measure different. Could it be made? I think yes---with difficulty. Would it be economical? Probably not. Would a company that makes boards come to our aid? Not likely.

Any body with ideas, please offer thoughts.

bly-kisslamp_(resized).jpgbly-kisslamp_(resized).jpg

#351 7 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

this is exactly what we need!

I have done some Googling and there are places that will custom make boards. I have no idea of pricing, yet. It would be depend on quantity.

The board in that picture is branded pinballresource.com . Steve, at PBR sells them for $38.85 each US funds. I am guessing that he ordered them in quantity. What we would need for Big Game would be smaller in size so maybe they could be cheaper in price but you would need three of them. So, let's say $25.00 each US. That would be $75.00 for the boards. 555 bulb holders are $0.44 ea. and you need 27 for cost of $12.00 US. Then you have shipping and other items I could not even guess about.

So, let's say you could upgrade your Big Game in this manner and it will cost you $100.00 for the parts. And if you cannot do your own work there would be a labor charge, as well.

So, the question is: How many Big Game owners would pay $100.00 US and perhaps a bit more to upgrade to printed circuit boards for their pin? How many would pay $150.. US for an upgrade like this?

I could give Stave a call and talk with him about what we would like but having an idea of some numbers would be nice.

Bally produced 17,000 Kiss pins. Stern produced 2,713 Big Game pins. The numbers our not in our favor, but let's see what kind of action comes to the post.

Pinside says 68 pinsiders have Big Game in their collection. Maybe if 30, 40, or 50 BG owners were interested, something could happen.

#354 7 years ago

I'll make it four. Chuckles, I keep digging a deeper hole with this Big Game. Nothing is too good for baby

#355 7 years ago

This is a dead board. Did everybody's tiger get shot in the ass, or something? Nobody done anything cool to their Big Game?

#357 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Mines stock except for the custom LeD work I did. Like to keep these older game as OG as possible. Except of course an aftermarket bingo card light mod I would buy in a second.

I understand. But I also sent out an email to that outfit that sells the PDI glass. Since Big Game is not a standard body and it is not a wide body I/you/we cannot just order one of these play field glasses for a Big Game.

Seller advised me that there is a 5 sheet minimum per order. If I ordered 5 sheets there would be a discount. But each sheet is over $200.00. So not cheap.

Here is hoping that more Big Game owners might be interested.

1 week later
#361 7 years ago

I sent them a request, as well.

#369 7 years ago
Quoted from pinlawyer:

I'm in for anything BG!! PDI glass, boards, anything.

All we need is three more to get a PDI glass.

#370 7 years ago
Quoted from gabegabegabe:

If you could make it to work for both Big Game and Nine Ball, i would be in for a set. \

So, are you saying if you can't get a set for your Nine Ball you won't get a set for your Big Game?

I'd like a set for my Nine Ball, too. But I'll sure take a BG set.

#372 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I don't think he owns Big Game.

Ah yeah, I'm still waking up.

#375 7 years ago

OK. That is six sets. This just might happen. Would that be cool, or what?

#377 7 years ago

I have been working on restoring my Big Game. I sent the play field out for restore and clear coat. It should be finished in November. In meantime I have been working on the cabinet. The cab was not that bad and I was not going to mess with it too much, but one thing led to another and now I am in the middle of cleaning this cab up.

I found some Rustoleum rattle can paint that is a very good match to the Big Game green and figured I would clean up the back box because this is all I see. But as I started touch up on the cab, I went all in.

The paint is Rustoleum Meadow Green. It was not a perfect match, but it is only off a shade in color.

IMG_2155 (resized).JPGIMG_2155 (resized).JPG

I had to deal with this front corner.

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I like a filler product called Durham's Rock Hard. All you have to is mix with water. It is Plaster of Paris on steroids. It dries hard as a rock and is easy to sand. And it takes paint.

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This is the left hand side of the cab. It does not show in the pics but the left hand side of cab and back box were planked very bad. And this is why I decided to repaint the cab.

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The back part of the left side had a depression in the black paint. I started looking at it and discovered a big 1" wide x 8" long hollow area under the plywood facing. I had to remove the plywood in the defective area and fill and sand the defective area. For this repair I decided to go with Bondo instead of the Rock Hard water putty.

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Here is corner view showing the rear of the cab repaired and painted.

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Because the cab was planked badly I had to sand it to the wood in most places and use a filler primer to hide the planking. This pic is of the first sanding. At this time, I applied the green paint. That was a mistake. The planking showed through. I had to remove the paint I applied. Now, this is just cheap rattle can paint that can take weeks to dry; Sanding this cheap paint was out of the question. I had to wash all my green paint off with lacquer thinner, do a lot more sanding, shoot on some filler primer and sand that.

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Here it is finished with the green.

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It is time to talk about the stencils. This is not a complicated stencil design and I figured I could make my own.

A trip to the hobby store for a roll of tracing paper and a set of French Curves was needed. The procedure was to trace out around both the black and white colors on the trace paper.

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Next a trip to the sewing store was required to buy a pack of carbon paper and a pattern transfer wheel.

Then some white sign paper was laid underneath and the white area was transferred from the trace paper to the sign paper using the carbon paper and transfer wheel. With the stencil for the white areas completed, this signboard was replaced with another sheet and the black areas were transferred.

This pic shows the white being painted.

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Once the white was painted, the black stencils were placed into position.

Here is the finished left hand side. It was a rush job and it will work for me, but if I were trying to sell this work I would have to up my game. I may hit it with some clear to hide a few flaws. But it looks better than it did. And nobody sees the sides that much, anyways.

I had to spend about $40.00 for tools and supplies to make the stencils, but to buy a set of stencils would have cost $150.00 plus shipping.

I hope you like it. Next up will the the right hand side.

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1 month later
#390 7 years ago

I like the Big Game sound set.

#398 7 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Yes! Grand Lizard is excellent - love those background Jungle Drums.
I love the classic sounds, dont' get me wrong, but they are more fitting to the space themes - I just think the added "ambience" of the jungle would be great - drop that saucer shot to collect your bonus and hear that lion roar.
I will try to get to work on this. Would be a fun diversion.

OK. Hearing the lion roar. I'd go for that.

2 weeks later
#407 7 years ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

I'm in. Actually have had this game for about 6 months sitting in my shop collecting dust. Decided to bust it out on friday. Damn WTF took me so long this thing is in great condition and it's fun as hell. I actually had no room in the gameroom so I finally pulled seawitch out for a full restore and put big game in its place. Rebuilt all the flips, pops, slings and fine tuned the spinners. Cleaned it up really good already had the LEDS. I bought this as a package trade that included a really nice catacomb and kind of a beater meteor for my funhouse. Totally happy with that deal as catacomb is by far our favorite old school game. We were very pleased that this wide body plays similarly too catacomb. I have this game playing super fast. I need to take a video. This will be an easy restore when I get to it as it's in really nice shape to start with.

That is a nice looking Big Game !!

1 week later
#433 7 years ago

That board does look nice.

1 week later
#442 7 years ago

Cool! Ordered one set of three and thirty 555 sockets.

#448 7 years ago

Got my board set and 555 sockets in mail today.

It looks like high quality material.

2 weeks later
#450 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone else install the new light boards? Just wanted to make sure the instructions for where the wires go is correct.
Also, I had one of my ball guards break again between the flippers. I know i found these new somewhere, and I cannot remember where. Anyone know where to find them? I think PBR might have them, but i have no idea what the part number is.
thanks!

I'm still waiting to get my play field back the the restorer.
******************************

NOS Stern Big Game Short Ball Guide

It is about 1/3 way down in PBR's "Special when lit" section. . Part number: A-655 STN-A655. Watch how those "dashes" are placed. But Steve will probably already know what you want.

#453 7 years ago
Quoted from lb45:

Hi,
Looking for a picture of the connector J3 (big one) of the Power supply, to check the COLORS of each pin . Mine is broken ( 3 parts ) , and some pins were disconnected ..
I need to rebuild it totally
Of course i have the schematic, but i preffer to be secure..before power-up.
Sounds easy to shoot , through the door
Thanks
Lionel

J-3
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J-1

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J-2

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1 month later
#456 7 years ago

Ok guys, I have just traded emails with the guy who is making the Big Game bingo card light boards. As of today, he has only sold three sets. He is not worried about it but some of you who said you would buy a set ought to step up and make an order and give him an incentive to work up something for Nine Ball.

#464 7 years ago
Quoted from RacingPin:

My Big Game doesn't have any metal frame where the playfield glass ends at the head of the game. Is this correct?
Mike V

Yes. it is correct. I have a Dracula cab with no metal frame. I cannot speak for the four pins after Stars (Memory Lane, Lectronamo, Wild Fyre, and Nugent) but my guess it that Dracula and all that followed had no metal frame. Probably to cut costs.

#465 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah that's a shame. Thought we had at least ten sets sold. I might have to buy a backup set or two in case he pulls them.

I have thought about getting a 2nd set. Lord knows that are cheap enough.

2 months later
#514 7 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

I'm in the club!
Picked this baby up recently. It needs a good shop shop and I'll have to shake out a few small things, but it seems like it boots and is all there. Cosmetics are pretty decent too.
Looking forward to learning this one!

Yes. this one looks like a nice one. It is a fun game to play. Now, look at the right eye of the tiger on the right hand side of the coin door. See how it is messed up and does not look right? Mine BG cab was like this so I corrected it when I repainted the cab. It seems like most BG pics I have seen have the tiger with this messed up eye.

You should consider removing those protector things from under the legs and get the kind that are completely hidden underneath the legs. What you have installed just moves the problem of cab damage to the outside of those large "protectors."

1 week later
#519 7 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is that playfield original or restored at some point? Damn thing still has dimples. Crazy.

Not only just a super looking play field but the drop targets look brand new and nice white. And AFAIK, you cannot buy the #6, #7,#8, and #9 anywhere.

1 month later
#526 6 years ago

Nine Ball lamp boards are prototyped. A few months ago when the 555 lamp boards were being made to light up the Big Game bingo cards some of you were asking for something similar for your Nine Ball pin.

I had a prototype set sent to me a few days ago and after some fitting and trimming I got them soldered up an running today. They work nice. Actually, they work real nice.

Since this is a prototype, the board down at the flippers had to be trimmed a bit to fit due to clearance issues with the slingshot brackets; Because of clearance issues with 555 sockets at the 4 ball position and the 5 ball position, the final product will most likely have two permanent white LEDs installed which will allow for this board to fit properly out of the box.

IMG_3869 (resized).JPGIMG_3869 (resized).JPG

The two boards that live next to the drop target assembly fit nicely and have no interference with the drop target parts. The first two prototype boards that were sent did have interference problems but the second set of prototype boards had this problem corrected.

They were easy to solder up and I had to change a couple of ground wires. But since I was making ground wire changes I went a little farther and added a brass grounding bus.

If you know how to solder they are a piece of cake to install. The two boards next to the drop assembly install to the 4 locating holes the factory boards used. The board between the slingshots has to be located (by you). This is easy to do, but you want to take your time and do a clean job.

IMG_3881 (resized).JPGIMG_3881 (resized).JPG

I'm going to take this to the Nine Ball board to get an idea of how many will be interested in these for their Nine Ball.

3 months later
#532 6 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Welcome!! I say put Mylar down over the wear spots then clean and wax regularly.
Hey guys I was streaming big game tonight and noticed something. If you light reserve bonus and you're on ball 3 (should get 5k bonus for all bingo lines) but you don't complete any bingo lines on your new set of cards, you won't get any 5k bingo line bonuses for your 3 complete cards. Bummer. Go to the 42 minute mark of the steam link below to see.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/164270109

Nice video.

What flippers do you have on top? They look shorter.

4 months later
#547 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

vpforums.org has classic Stern freeplay ROMs. Search in Downloads for Big Game.

I found that ROM over at VPF. On December 28, 2014,Someone wrote that is is not working. I don't know if it works, or not. You should be able to download this one item without being a VPF member.

Good Luck.

http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?app=downloads&showfile=5318

1 month later
#564 6 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Where does one get a full set of new drop targets?

Numbers 1,2,3,4, and 5 are available at PBR because some other Sterns used those numbers. 6,7,8,and 9 are Big Game only. I asked Steve at PBR about this and he was quite adamant the he would not invest the amount of dollars needed to produce for a small market.

I did a font search and found a font that looked close and was thinking maybe making some water slide decals might work.

2 weeks later
#574 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Thanks. The playfield is heavily ball-swirled, as the pics below show. The big factory mylar was installed on top of an old worn playfield, and I hope that means it will come up easily. I can work miracles with Magic Eraser, but not through mylar.
The good news is that the artwork is intact. It looks better under normal gameroom lighting than these pics show, because the art is complex and doesn’t have many areas of the same color (other than the 3 cards).

Oh yes. That is a nice play field. Very nice.

#579 6 years ago

With all of the attention Big Game has been getting of late I'm going to take another stab at trying to juice up some interest for a PDI play field glass.

A couple of year ago I asked Joey at Pinball Decals about making an invisible play field glass for Big Game. It takes 5 people to get on board and make it happen.

Big Game is the same cabinet size as the other Stern wide bodies. This includes Flight 2000, Freefall, Cheetah, Iron Maiden, Split Second, and Viper.

I would love to have one for my Big Game.

Here is hoping others may be interested.

#596 6 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Awesome, what about new drop targets springs?

PBR has those, too.

Those ball guides used to be on this page with the other Stern stuff. Scroll down not too far from the top to all the Stern items. I bought a pair some time back. I don't see them now. You will have to ask Steve.

http://www.pbresource.com/special.html

#597 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

After 8 hours of cleaning with ME and Novus 2, here’s where I ended up. I lost some *great* touchup work someone had done around the 3X. I tried to protect it with masking tape, and it pulled right up . Next time I will protect my touchups with acrylic or something first. So what’s left is an honest 1980 playfield, a few bruises but not bad for 38 years old.

I can make you a scan of the area that lifted around your 3X if you need.

#600 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Do you happen to know which springs?

Assuming no one has ever made any changes on your Big Game you want the short springs.

#603 6 years ago
Quoted from cdnpinballer:

PBR sold out of those ball guides. I could really use a pair on my Big Game...
Edit: I could possibly see about making them...
Can another club member please let me know what the length of these guides are?
Also, pics of the back side would be very helpful.

I can take some better pics if anybody needs them.

IMG_6010 (resized).JPGIMG_6010 (resized).JPG
IMG_6011 (resized).JPGIMG_6011 (resized).JPG
IMG_6012 (resized).JPGIMG_6012 (resized).JPG
IMG_6013 (resized).JPGIMG_6013 (resized).JPG

#612 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I just measured (and remeasured) my playfield glass as 45-3/4" x 24-5/8" x 3/16". Is this what others have ordered? Thanks!

I had a glass cut for my BG a couple of years ago. I would suggest 45-5/8" for the length. I had mine cut for the 45-3/4" length; It works but it is tight.

#615 6 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

How much does it cost to get custom glass cut?

Make double sure you order a sheet with no logo. Since you will be ordering tempered glass unless you tell them no logo what you will get a is a piece of glass with some lettering in one corner telling you that it is tempered glass.

#619 6 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

So I just ordered mine now, and it was $60 after taxes. It would have been $120 with polished edges so I definitely passed on that.

I passed on polished edges for the same reason. I ran some 320 wet/dry sandpaper across my edges to soften them up a bit.

3 months later
#627 5 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

After 5+ years searching, I finally got my Big Game this weekend!
Does anyone have a current source for ball guide A-655? Pinball Resource told me they're sold out.

You will need to make some. Scroll up to post #601 and start reading down to your post #625.

#630 5 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

Haha, can't believe I missed that, literally right above my post. I think I skimmed the first few pages, saw the PBR suggestion, and posted without reading further.

Thanks Erik! That would be awesome. Really looking forward to that tournament!

Are you going to show us some pics of your Big Game?

1 week later
#637 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Even if your light boxes are working fine they suck and once one socket starts to go the only way to fix it is to get a whole new box. I highly recommend the 555 boards. You’ll have to buy the twist in sockets separately though. They don’t come with the new boards.

I 2nd this. Those 555 boards are nice.

2 months later
#640 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I wish there was a way to skillfully light the left spinner.

I like this.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Maybe keep that but also after spelling big game once, it stays lit.

I like this, too.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

your big game letters reset ball to ball.

The thought of having to relight all of the bingo cards makes me shudder. So, no to this.

#643 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I assume you’re talking about my bonus reset idea not the big game letters resetting. I can see why some don’t like that one, but I am not a huge fan of some early SS games that if you blow it up ball one, you really don’t have to do anything rest of game to beat your opponent, unless they blow it up ball one too. This idea would be more of a setting available to tournament players.

I'm OK if the Big Game letters reset and the bonus resets after Ball 1. But I struggle enough with getting all 27 lights in the bingo cards lit in a 5 ball game that to have to start over after every ball would be a real chore. But I can where in tournament play it could really toughen things up and make it interesting. If it was a setting that could be changed with a DIP switch then I could go with that.

1 week later
#646 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

I have a cracked left flipper metal and right ball guide metal - but I can likely weld them rather than fashion new ones if new ones aren't available anywhere.

Pinball Life for all your Stern flipper needs.

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2413

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3879

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2359

https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2411

#648 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

I actually meant the metal below the upper left flipper to allow lower flipper trapping/prevent scissoring.

Yes. Got that. You are on your own with this one.

Is it the small angle brackets that has broken on these? You could buy one or two other Big Game parts that PBR is selling and strip the brackets off of those. But then you would have to source some tube/hollow rivets.

#650 5 years ago

I need some help, please. I need to know if your Big Game back glass is 1/8" think or 3/16" thick.

I was under the impression that all of the classic Sterns used 1/8" back glass. Now I am hearing that some of the Big Game back glasses may have used 3/16" glass.

Thanks.

#652 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Ya got me curious so I just went and measured.
1/8 it is.

Thank you, rollitover.

I'm looking for someone who has one that is 3/16".

I am having to prove somebody right. Or wrong. I don't think Stern made one in 3/16". There is some real money on the line, here.

I had a Hot Hand pin and that glass was 1/8". My Meteor back glass is 1/8". Since Ali and Galaxy predate Big Game I would like to know what those glasses measure for thickness.

My Seawitch, Nine Ball, Catacomb, and Dragonfist all measure 1/8".

I just can't see why Stern would be using 1/8" and then bump it up to 3/16" for Big Game but I'm being told that, at least, the earlier Big Games were 3/16". I do not believe this but I cannot but I cannot disprove it.

Anybody else?

Thanks in advance.

#656 5 years ago

Cottonm4 ===1/8"

Rollitover === 1/8"

pinballholder ==1/8"

#657 5 years ago

Classic Playfield Reproductions is now offering Big Game Plastic sets.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/biggame/

#660 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

My Big Game is 1/8"
For posterity on Stern pins...
Trident - 1/8"
Flight 2k - 1/8"

Cottonm4 ===1/8"
Rollitover === 1/8"
pinballholder ==1/8"
chuckwurt ====1/8"
statictrance====1/8"

Trident, Hot Hand, Meteor all precede Big Game with 1/8" back glass. F2K, Catacomb, Dragonfist, Nine Ball follow with 1/8".

Any more?

#662 5 years ago

All of the back glass lift rails on my old Sterns are rusted badly so I have been busy replacing them with polished stainless steel lift rails that Gatecrasher makes.

The other item I am starting to replace is the white trim strip that goes along the sides of the classic Stern back glasses. I don't know about you but on all of my classic Sterns that white trim strip is just one more piece of plastic turned yellow from years aging and of nicotine exposure.

You cannot buy white trim strips. You can only buy trim strips in black. Some people are happy with the black trim strips. I'm not. I like the white ones but as I said, you cannot buy them.

I have found a solution. Here are 3 pics showing a comparison of the old trim vs. the new.

The old:

IMG_8451 (resized).JPGIMG_8451 (resized).JPG

The new:

IMG_8452 (resized).JPGIMG_8452 (resized).JPG

Side by side:

IMG_8453 (resized).JPGIMG_8453 (resized).JPG

Here are the new white trims on the Star Gazer that I am building.

IMG_8449 (resized).JPGIMG_8449 (resized).JPG
IMG_8450 (resized).JPGIMG_8450 (resized).JPG

Some people like the black trim and I get that. But for those who like the white as I do, here is how you procure some white trim.

You go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a length of white plastic channel that is used as a border for shower walls.

This stuff. It is designed to cover the edge of shower wall material which happens to be 1/8" thick. Your back glass is 1/8" so the fit is perfect. The only thing you have to do is make the short leg of the channel a little shorter than it is; You can leave it as you bought it which is longer than what Stern used but if you have access to a table saw you can trim the short leg to the correct size.

Eight feet of this shower wall trim costs about $3.00. It will yield enough sticks to do both sides and the top of your back glass. $6.00 worth will allow you to put new white trim on three of your Stern back glasses.

IMG_8456 (resized).JPGIMG_8456 (resized).JPG

Now, I need to put this on the other Stern threads.

#664 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

This is fantastic, appreciate this tip. Stargazer, Nine Ball, and Big Game will get this upgrade!

It has been pointed out that a can of Krylon paint will clean up the strips, as well. For anybody who does not have access to a table saw a can of Krylon will work wonders.

#666 5 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

just noticed this thread , i like all of the color combinations of all the big game flippers in everybody's pictures , the star gazer is really beautiful , i love seeing all of these early stern collections
[quoted image][quoted image]

Your flippers do a good job of matching the apron.

Your play field looks like it is in nice shape, too. Your bingo cards look pretty clean and not all flamed out. You might want to consider using some frisket to protect them as you play. It is cheap protection. And it is temporary.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/frisket-a-magical-film

#669 5 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

thanks for the frisk tip i didn't know it was sold in sheets

You can buy it in rolls, also. Keep some hot batteries in your calculator. Prices are all over the place.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_6_7

2 months later
#670 5 years ago

This has not happened to me before. You guys know how this pin works. When you get the last light in the last card lit then all of the 27 bingo card lights go out so you can start over and light them again. I'm starting to get pretty good at getting all 27 lights lit up fairly frequently in my 5-ball games.
+++++++++++++++++

I'm playing ball 4 and the only two lights in the bingo cards I need to still light up are the #7 in the "Y" card and the #7 in the "Z" card. You all know how fast this game is so you have an idea when I tell you I did not see how what happened actually happened. I know I hit the #7 drop target and the last two #7 lights lit up but then all 27 lights stayed lit. AKAIK, Big Game is not supposed to have all 27 lights lit up at once on round one.

This pic shows ball 5 being cradled so I can take this pic and then I finish playing ball 5 will all 27 lights lit.

Anybody else ever have this happen with their Big Game?

IMG_8995 (resized).JPGIMG_8995 (resized).JPG

#674 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

You say you had the 7 remaining on both the y and the z cards and then hit the #7 drop. Yet the y and z are not designated. Instead, the x card IS designated and all 27 lights remain lit.
You said everything happened so fast...how does the x card light?
Did the ball cross the center rollover?
Did it engage a sling?
Did the ball beat the circuit?
You said it was fast
What we have here is an honest to goodness old fashioned...GLITCH!

This pic was taken after the fact. At the time it was fast play and I don't know which yellow lights were lit. I assume both y and z were lit, but officer, it all happened so fast

You will also notice that the pink insert in front of the 7-8-9 drop targets is not lit as it should be.

Last thing I remember, Doc, is that I had 25 bingo card lights lit and blinding me and then BOOM, all the lights were lit and did not turn off.

Do you think I found a new glitch in a 38 year old pin? !!

Glitch. No Glitch. Doesn't matter. Big Game is great player !!

#676 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The game must be mad at you for using the wrong flippers. Haha. Jk.
Yeah had to be a glitch. How did the bonus countdown? Did it give you full value for all 27 lights?

I got the bonus countdown. Was it for all 27 lights? I did not pay attention to that. That is a fast countdown, as you know.

#679 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Any chance the reserve light is burned out

The reserve light is good. The farthest I have ever gotten is 12 lights or so on the 2nd time thru (I'm getting better).

They are LEDs. I have the upgraded 555 light boards installed. But it is all still the factory wiring with nothing new added. MY LDA is an Alltek.

The only issue I have with the lighting is my #8 light in the "X" board will not flash and blink during a bonus countdown. It stays burning solid, however, it flashes properly during attract mode. I don't feel like removing the play field right now to figure it out. Not so soon after I put it back together when restoring it.

I like my Williams flippers. On all my other pins, I installed those custom aluminum bats Pinball Life sold and cancelled. The aluminum bats are now available again and I really like them but at $15.00 each they have turned into a luxury I can't cost justify. Big Game would be $60.00 for 4 flippers.

1 week later
#682 5 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

In the middle of a shop job on my big game. I've looked in the big game Gallery but I don't see good pictures of the Flipper wiring. Anyone care to snap a few for me? This game is a basket case and has Flipper switches that aren't even wired to do anything. Much thanks.

The blue/white power wire attaches to the banded side of the diodes.

Right flipper assemblies with the orange trigger wire :

IMG_9107 (resized).JPGIMG_9107 (resized).JPG

IMG_9110 (resized).JPGIMG_9110 (resized).JPG
IMG_9111 (resized).JPGIMG_9111 (resized).JPG

Left flipper assemblies (with green trigger wire wire)

IMG_9112 (resized).JPGIMG_9112 (resized).JPG

IMG_7386 (resized).JPGIMG_7386 (resized).JPG
IMG_7389 (resized).JPGIMG_7389 (resized).JPG

IMG_7395 (resized).JPGIMG_7395 (resized).JPG
#686 5 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

You should really try and find a different game to part out not many of these were made. If you are set on doing it however I would like the spinners and switches.

I already PM'd him for the spinners and transformer But I am like you about parting a Big Game. I hate to see it happen, especially if Mirco would ever decide to remake the play fields. I think people are starting to discover that Big Game is a great playing pin.

#697 5 years ago
Quoted from Squeakman:

Without having gone through all 14 pages of text can owners tell me what makes this game so loved? Good layout or greats rules Or? I always hear great things about this game and after playing it at Zapcon a few times it seems really cool. I don't totally understand the rules though because I have only played a few games on it.

* It is extremely fast ! You can play it fast or slow.

* It gives you lots of flipper friendly shots. The ball is yours to lose.

* The out lanes are a challenge but they are not greedy. The pops will kill you because they like to shoot the ball straight for the out lanes.

* Rules: Easy to understand. Difficult to achieve.

X, and Y, and Z Bingo cards: The three inlane rollovers, the red rollover in mid-play field, and the sling shots cause the X, Y, Z card lights to rotate.

If the X light is lit and you knock down drop target number 1, X-1 will light up. If X stays lit and you knock down drop 9, then X-9 will light up. Do this for Y, and Z. Do this for all 27 lights for big points. Once you light up light #27, all bingo lights go dark and you start over.

If you are real good you might be able to "help" select which lights ( X, Y, Z ) you want but it is 99% luck.

All of the above is the secondary objective. The prime objective is to keep the ball on this table of short ball times.

I love the speed and liken it to a sword fight.

#698 5 years ago

Don't know about the rest of you but I have always found my Big Game to be a little bit dark on the play field. I noticed on my Sterns with dark play fields that I get lots of back box reflection and glare on the play field glass. I have tried several avenues to obtain an invisible play field glass for this pin that is basically a bastard size play field. I have not had any luck. By dark play fields, I mean Big Game, Nine Ball, and Dragonfist. All 3 of these pins have lots of back glass glare, whereas, Seawitch and Catacomb have lighter colored play fields I do not have problems with glass glare and reflections.

Awhile back I stumbled onto this youtube video. A guy with a Williams Laser Cue, got tired of playing to a dark play field, so he lit it up.

I payed attention to this YT vid and I'm 80% complete with lighting up my Big Game. The picture does not do justice to what I see but I have my play field lit up like day.

I am using the Comet LED matrix lighting system. I have several of these 6-lamp paddles installed. And I also have taken the post lights and have them sitting upside down on top of the posts and under the plastics. This stuff was not my idea. I got it from the video I linked.

IMG_9105 (resized).JPGIMG_9105 (resized).JPG

The nice thing about being lit up this way is the added lighting overpowers the back box glare on the play field glass. No invisible glass is needed. Since these are all GI lights, you can add these LEDs with only original Stern lamp board.

I have the 6-point paddle at each sling shot, behind the 4-5-6 drop target and the 7-8-9 drop target. I still need to light up the apron and 3-4 other posts. For the post light, I just turned them upside down and placed them under the plastics.

IMG_9123 (resized).JPGIMG_9123 (resized).JPG

EDIT: The LEDS are warm white.

1 month later
#699 5 years ago

Big Game owners....feast your eyes. now there is solution for your 6-7-8-9 blues.

As we go from this

IMG_9488 (resized).JPGIMG_9488 (resized).JPG

to this

IMG_9489 (resized).JPGIMG_9489 (resized).JPG

to this

IMG_9490 (resized).JPGIMG_9490 (resized).JPG

to this

IMG_9494 (resized).JPGIMG_9494 (resized).JPG

and to this

IMG_9508 (resized).JPGIMG_9508 (resized).JPG

#701 5 years ago

The ones I have installed on my Big Game were marked with black ink and mylar applied. I think I got the idea from you. They are holding up very well.

What I am showing here are vinyl decals. They appear to be quite durable and I think that can take a lot of ball hits.

Tractor Doc made them for me. He is making and selling some decals for some of these old Sterns. When I saw his ads at the bottom of the page I sent a PM. I did not know it was Tractor Doc until he replied.

Here is the link to what he has tolled up so far.

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1566-dps

I asked if he could tool up a set for BG because there is no solution for the 6-7-8-9 digits. So he did. Now, hopefully he can have some demand to make it worth his time.

I am also going to send him one of my BG spinners for a pattern so perhaps he can make some BG spinner decals.

$5.00 of decals sure sounds better then $50.00 worth of drop targets.

2 months later
#704 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

So its been a year but I finally had some time tonight to install my beautiful pinballreplacementparts.com light boards. To my dismay, when I opened the package there was no wiring diagram. Anyone have one they can PM me a picture of? I sent the vendor an email too, but was hoping to work on this tonight.
Thanks!

Why would you need a wiring diagram?

#708 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

Because I don't trust myself to screw this up somehow lol

Thanks!!

One bank at a time. One wire at a time. Place a dab of solder on each solder point. Throw that play field back and Replace the “X” bank with a new board. Then one wire at a time.

Then repeat.

3 weeks later
#711 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2019-buy-sell-trade-want-no-hotel-talk/page/35#post-4972169
Big Game playfield with original spinners for one fiddy.
...and a few posts later, there's a Big Game machine for sale at Pinfest too.

That was a fully populated Big Game play field. And that was one nice play field, too.

#713 4 years ago
Quoted from yfz450:

It doesn't look fully populated? It does look like a nice playfield though.

I did not look at that other picture. So, I guess it is a play field with plastics and spinners.

2 months later
#717 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone have any of the flipper guide plates that go behind the upper flippers for sale? I think PBR is out.

If you don't have any bracket material, you can sacrifice four #47 light bulb sockets. Cut the socket brackets/blades from the sockets. Bend some 90 degree angles in the blades and bond them together with JB Weld or 5 minute epoxy. This should make a bracket strong enough to handle impact. It is cumbersome buy will work in a pinch.

Now, you need to find some sheet metal to make the face plate.

#719 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have the guides. The feet just keep breaking off. I’ll probably just send them to my friend to weld. Maybe he can make a stronger leg for them too.

It would be a little more expensive then just bending a 90 degree bend in a strip of metal but they would probably last forever with an angle support.

Screen Shot 2019-07-25 at 6.19.58 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-07-25 at 6.19.58 PM (resized).png

3 weeks later
#720 4 years ago

All 27 lights lit on Ball 1. First time for me.

I fired up Big Game this morning while still half awake. I had a killer ball going and didn't know it.

On ball 1 I lit up all 27 lights plus the 7 that you see lit. For some reason, the score did not photograph in the pic. Also, the pink light in front of the 7-8-9 drops has been acting up and was not showing as lit. But the green 27,000 point light is shining brightly. I think the score was around 700,000.

Balls 2 and 3 were pretty much a bust.

I did switch from 5-ball play for 3-ball play several months ago and have managed to light all 27 lights 3 or 4 times. I have not lit all 27 up twice yet, but I have gotten close.

Even half awake, Big Game still does it for me. Great game.

IMG_1757 (resized).JPGIMG_1757 (resized).JPG

#722 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think the reserve bonus green light is this games wizard mode. It’s that hard. Especially on three ball, EBs off.

This was a clean count with no extra balls. I still have the EBs turned on, though, but I think I am finally getting good enough to turn them off. Maybe resetting the dips will be on this weekend's schedule.

1 month later
#724 4 years ago

Low balling it.

Just for grins I removed the glass and played a couple of games by hand. The lowest number of points you can score and light all 27 bingo card lights is 24,000 points.

So, to mix it up a little bit, I am going to go for the goal of how few points can I make and light all 27 lights. That's means trying to avoid the spinners and trying to keep the ball from going back up to the top. And trying to minimize contact with the slings and pops.

I'm not trying to win any games. So why not? Give it a little twist for a change.

#731 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Try lighting all 27 lights twice. I’ve never seen anyone do it. Bonus points for getting it on video.

27 + 9 or 10 is best I have done.

#736 4 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

This can be changed or remedied?
Never realized it was
abnormal, i.e. "a bug."

I noticed anything wrong, either.

#739 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Chuck is only testing the bonus resetting each ball, not anything with the extra ball yet.
The extra ball bug is that it starts out blinking, if you won't collect it, it's still lit on the next ball, it's just not blinking. It's because stern never took into account restoring the blinking lamps like Williams did. Also, when you collect one extra ball, even though you did 2 separate things to earn 2 different extra balls, both possibilities turn off. It's minor to be sure, but minimally the blinking one should still blink (I think they both blink, the left lane one lamp is out on my BG and I never got around to fixing it, but I'll double check it when I get around to fixing it)
After Chuck's testing will probably add a dip switch option for the bonus wipe/no bonus wipe. I don't think I'd run mine that way, but more options for tournament directors never hurt (or for people that want an extra challenge).

I don't know how you would deal with it, or if you even could, but on the first round when you manage to lights all 27 lights there are the 3 pink lights indicating your success. However, when you start round 2, those pink lights are still on. Would there be any way to turn pink lights off when you make light #28 so you can keep track of where you are at on the 2nd round?

One other thing: You can only complete lighting all 27 lights twice (glass off play testing) twice. After that, there is nothing left to shoot for. Can something be done to allow for a 3rd round? I know. It is a stupid thought. But there was a time when I could not make all 27 lights and I do that a lot more; Someday, I will get them all lit twice. Someday. And I would like to be able to continue for a 3rd round--if it were to happen.

#744 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

You mean the 25k bonus on the drop banks indicating you got all 3 drop numbers on all cards? I consider that a perk of completing the banks for later on. The bingo cards are where you're supposed to keep track of what you need.

Yes. When you drop 1-2-3 on all 3 bingo cards, the 25K light goes pink. When 1-2-3 lights up that is your queue telling you that you do not need to target 1-2-3 anymore and concentrate your efforts on the other 2 drops. I don't have to actively look at each bingo card to see if all the 1-2-3 lights are lit up. The 25K tells me 1-2-3 is complete and I can concentrate my efforts on 4-5-6 and 7-8-9.

I am no pinball wizard. not by a long shot. But as I play this game more, I find I can do post passes and can somewhat target which set of drops I want to work on first. 7-8-9 is the hardest set to drop so I go for 7-8-9 first. The 25K pink lights help.

So, after you light all 27 lights and get ready for round 2, as soon as you hit light #28, the bingo cards go dark and you start again. Except the 25K pink lights do not turn off and cannot act as your queue during this round. I would like for the pink lights to turn off, as well, and start their re-light process all over again with the drops.

You cannot do too much with the green 27K bonus light. I don't think you could, anyway.

But it is nothing major. The pin plays fine as it is.

#747 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:Yeah, I think the 25k should stay as well, as a [further] reward for getting the whole card.
Maybe a compromise could be, complete the card, great. You get the extra 27k times 3x for the completed card, BUT the next ball, the completed card extra bonus turns off. Kind of like how 9 ball does it with the 77k super bonus only getting collected once, IIRC.

That would work.

I'm thinking if BG was redone today like Seawitch/The Beatles that the first time thru a pink light would light up. The 2nd time thru could be a blue light, etc. Then red. And on and on.

Quoted from slochar:

all 3 cards lit at once,

All 3 cards lit at once would be boring, IMO. Part of challenge with BG is, say, "Y" is lit up so you try to target 4-5-6 because you need those "Y" lights but when you hit the ball it crosses over that rollover switch and changes the lit card "Z". You manage to hit the 4-5-6 but now the active card is "Z". So, you make your shot but were robbed by the rollover switch. It just adds a degree of randomness that I find appealing.

It is sort like the pops on this pin. Both lower pops are equally capable of sending you down either outlane as well as SDTM. And the top pop can hit you STDM, as well; not often but just enough to hose you up. You are rolling along and BOOM! A pop sabotages your game.

Contrast these pops with Seawtich's nested pops. You are rarely in danger of a pop loss on Seawitch.

And yeah, I used the 1 light/2 light variant with my dips.

#749 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

3 cards at once would be once in a very long sequence (like every 15 times changed or so). Rare enough to take notice, not often enough to take advantage.
This is just like a planning meeting that Stern had/should have had 40 years ago... spitballing ideas. I like the ideas as options to kill all bonus, kill just the extra bonus, leave the 25k in any case, fix the extra ball issue. Already in the roms out in the field for several years now is an option to collect the 5k per line bonus on all balls, not just balls >=2, and make the background sound dip match the manual.
I just remembered another one that needs to be addressed, especially for tournaments - sometimes it takes a long while for the players' scores to get put back on the display, between the hstd and the animated 1.2.3.4.5.6.7 7777777 flashing. It seems prudent to swap the 777 sequence timing with the show scores timing instead, right now it's hstd and 777 heavy.
An official free play dip switch would be nice as well. My rom mods should be easy to recognize as I always put the version # in the match display at bootup. Stern put a 17 there on their later games for some reason (Lightning and Dragonfist def., don't remember noticing on the others). I wonder if that had any significance? They specifically set the match seed to #$17.
I also set the max credits to 99 and repurpose those dips for the options. Dip 19 is going to be my go-to dip for freeplay on/off.

You offer up some interesting ideas for items I never noticed. I have an Alltek MPU installed currently. My MPU-200 board has been repaired and I will be receiving soon.

I’m only now learning a little about ROMs. Maybe I could try yours out?

My Seawitch has ROM that credits 35 games when started up. I enjoy having that ROM in there.

#759 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's an interesting variation, never saw that one before. Does it just appear 35 or does it click the credits up one at a time with the sound effect as well? Any extra hardware in there, Tom Callahan/repair connection (retired) used to sell a kit that watched the coin lockout solenoid and when it was on to take coins, would just electronically flip the coin switches to avoid rom changes (I don't think he was impressed by rom hacks based on the way he described them).
Alltek has been pretty much a "no custom" from day one. He's got some stuff that's on ipdb and the freeplay bally of course, but doesn't support people burning their own version of his combo rom.... would void your warranty I suppose.
You have eprom burner? I am getting very low of eproms so have to keep all I have to cycle into my own games. You'd think that 30 of each type would be enough but I go through a LOT of development roms and I'm not into the erase one to burn one type of thing (I have an eraser that does 40 at once)

The Witch fires up with 35 credits showing. I am having some minor issue with the MPU with start up and some times only 10 or 5 credits will be displayed. After I use up the last credit 10 new credits will be displayed.

I do not have an eprom burner. I have not gotten that far in my pinball career yet. I stay busy rebuilding, or replacing needed parts; slowly restoring them to be as new as I can afford.

Other than whipping out the Hakko desolder gun and replacing board parts my electronics knowledge I the last frontier I am trying cross.

#764 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

How would this be indicated? Blinking 2x and 3x lights? I like it.

I like this, too. Seawitch has 1x, 2x, and 4x lights. All combos of these 3 lights gets you up to 7x bonus. No blinking. They just light up.

Obviously, BG can not have those options but with 2x and 5x lit you know you are on 5x.

The times card selection sounds is sounding interesting. Would add a new twist.

#771 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Totally agree. Can’t wait to test this.

Since we are both fairly high on owning and playing BG, I am interested in hearing your opinion on the changes.

It just sounds like an already powerful game would turn into a very challenging and dynamic game to be playing.

#775 4 years ago

I know it will never happen, but since I am wishing, why not?

Dragonfist has that spinner counter. I love that counter. I wish that could be incorporated on my BG as well as my other Sterns. But the back glass would not modify well, at all.

Although, if the game credits or the ball in play could be removed from the display it would leave space to swap in a spinner counter.

BG, with its 2 spinners would just have to have them both on one circuit. A decal would need made to cover over either Credits or Ball in Play. If we are on freeplay, losing the number of Credits would not matter much.

#779 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Spinner counters are implemented. Although unlikely, if you happen to get the right spinner and the left spinner simultaneously, (the right first), the right will count until the left is hit, then the left takes over. The left spinner stock already has a timeout built into it to wait until the spinner stops for a bit (because of the saucer scoring) so the right can take over again if you happen to hit it that quick. The # of spins will stay up on the ball in play display for a short while so you can glance at it and then go back to the ball in play.
The software is moving along nicely, only have to implement a dip setting for the remove all bonus option, and add the all switch test in.
While I was at it, I implemented a solenoid saver for the drop banks - if any of the drop banks are completely up it doesn't bother to fire the solenoid before launching the ball (similar to eight ball deluxe on a single player game not bothering to reset the 7 bank between balls).

There was one time that I had both spinners going at once. One time only. But perhaps since the one spinner can score up to 2000 points per spin, maybe make it the dominate spinner for a spin count makeover and the other spinner just spins.

#783 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Oh yeah![quoted image]

Chuckles, let us know how you like these.

#788 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Got the new code in and testing now! First thoughts. The spinner counter is awesome.
Streaming this Thursday at 8pm so we can take a deep dive. Come watch so we can get Scott some good notes on anything that should be improved!
www.twitch.tv/SDTMpinball

Nice video. I like watching you play. I love those 4 flippers. I'm still working on my post passes and lower flipper passes; It really help with the scoring.

What I am seeing in the new code looks like fun. I can see where all 3 bingo cards lit for a short time will ad a new twist to the game play.

I need to learn how to do this.

BTW: What are you using to get the green displays? I want.

1 week later
#808 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

It’s because Playfield is in good condition I thought it would be worthy to bring it back from the dead
All I need is a new backglass & Cabinet

That is a beautiful play field. Nice score.

If the cab has no water damage, it will not be hard to fix. Even installing a new floor is no big deal.

There are 5 pink inserts (one in front of each drop target + 2 more). Yours looks like they are faded to white.

You cannot buy pink anywhere that I know of. Now they are purple. They will look good when installed.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PI-1RP

#811 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What’s it look like?

I'd like to know that, too

#812 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Ok I’ve joined the Club
The cabinet is shot needs a lot of work l so i am going to try to save this classic stern
Playfield is in a great original state , backglass is toast so I have to replace it ,hopefully someone’s got a high res scan
Here’s a couple of Pictures[quoted image][quoted image]

Protect that plastic that is inboard of the inside spinner. That teardrop like to break off with ball impact.

#815 4 years ago

I am working with Kerry at Mantis to build some ball guides for Quicksilver. It would be a perfect time to see if Kerry could make some of the guides that go between the Big Game flippers.

Anybody interested in some spares for their Big Game? Steve at PBR used to have some but he sold out.

Speak up. Make your self counted.

#825 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Honestly I don't recall checking but I have a vague recollection that they might not have been.
It doesn't make any sense though.
Are you guys *sure* your 8 and 9 lights correspond to the 8 and 9 drop targets? And if so, does your attract mode work correctly?
To illustrate what I'm on about here's a little diagram. Currently my attract mode looks 100%. So on the animation where the entire vertical column of lights are lit at once and they move across the card...
(1) 2 3
(4) 5 6
(7) 8 9
1 (2) 3
4 (5) 6
7 (8) 9
1 2 (3)
4 5 (6)
7 8 (9)
On this card the 5 and 6 are swapped (6 lights for 5 drop target, 5 lights for 6 drop target), as are the 8 and 9. If I switch the light wires around to correct that, then the attract mode animation will be borked like this...
(1) 2 3
(4) 5 6
(7) 8 9
1 (2) 3
4 5 (6)
7 8 (9)
1 2 (3)
4 (5) 6
7 (8) 9
I feel like I'm losing my mind...

Either you or someone else wired it up wrong.

Here is the wiring colors for each light. From IPDB.org

Screen Shot 2019-11-07 at 4.42.15 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2019-11-07 at 4.42.15 PM (resized).png

#835 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Okay will review again tonight. Some of my wire colours running to the lamps are different from those listed in the instructions for some reason.

I have 4 play field wires on my BG that are not to print. Can’t explain it other than the factory ran out of the correct wire and substituted another color to avoid production shut down.

You will need to learn how to read the prints so you can trace any wire back to its correct connector and pin position in the connector.

It is not hard. If you want some instruction just raise your hand.

#839 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

It works now thanks to barakandl zacaj and chuckwurt for help in the tech section. I've had this for over 2 years, left at 8 AM to get it and didn't get home until 2 AM the next morning. I still have a list of stuff to do in order to get it as nice as it can be, but I'm excited to be on my way with it!
I already have the new light boards ordered. The drop targets are grimy and probably need new springs (will PBResource know which springs I need?). I also want to get in on the new code revisions, but I need to get my original MPU for that.

PBR will know what springs you need. You will need the shorter of the 2 styles of Stern/Bally springs. He will know what flipper buttons you need. He will know what flipper switches you need. Try to find what you can on PBR website and write those part numbers down.

If you talk to him, tell him you have some part numbers of what you need but not some of the others. If you area noobie, tell him that. I suggest working your order with all of the part numbers (from PBR website) that you have. Once you you have done that tell him you don't have a part number for the following items.

Don't try to BS him and he will be nice to working with you. He'll smell BS from a mile away.

#843 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

I also should get a PBR order put together , I have not setup the account yet but i have read what he requires from the customer on his web site

You will become an alphanumeric number. He will assign you an account number. When I call I always say this is A123456.

He will not remember your name.

Get set up so you can be prepared when you really need him. Your first order needs to be for $15-$20 or so. You need to establish credit.

When that order arrives I immediately open, check for correct inventory, and then write a check to go out with the next day’s mail.

Steve prides himself on fast shipping. He expects fast payment. It is not a good idea to let yourself get placed on his slow-pay list.

After a couple of orders where you paid him properly then you can order $300-$400 worth of parts without issue. Not too many shops work like this.

#864 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

this summer was the coin door reworked, new back glass, new red displays , after looking at the flipper guides in this picture they look like they may be easy to fix, I also see an additional mistake i made after looking at these pics ,[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The two posts at the "G" and "A" standup targets need rubber rings installed.

Nice play field.

#865 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

your lock down bar is perfect and the rails for the glass look good in the photos , also nobody drilled a big hole in the front cabinet to place a credit button , that seems to be a common thing to do on 1980 pinball machines in the 1990's, if you buy a bgresto glass you do not need to send him your glass because there is no copy rights to old stern pinball machines cost was about 350 or less i forgot already and 12 weeks .

Steve seems to think that Big Game came from the factory with a 3/16" thick back glass and that is what he sent me. I have yet to talk to anybody who has an original 3/16" back glass. Everybody has 1/8" thick back glass. If anyone would like a 3/16" thick back glass, you can buy mine and I will buy a 2nd back glass from Steve and make sure he sends me a 1/8" thick back glass. It is a beautiful back glass except for the thickness issue.

Do you have any idea how much a 3/16" back glass weighs?

#868 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

nope i was wrong
marco
Product Name SKU Qty Price Subtotal
Backglass trim 1/8 inch side plastic set (3) M-1889-1-2 1 $9.95 $9.95
Lift trim metal 1/8 x 28.5 inch P-6242-107 1 $27.99 $27.99
38.00 all together

The only problem with the Marco trim is that is black instead of white. If you want white you can buy some white trim strips used to build showers at Home Depot and have white.

I found my post about using white shower trim.

Post #662

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/big-game-club-the-safari-has-started/page/14#post-4589371

#869 4 years ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

50% more than a 1/8" glass?

You would be surprised at how much the 3/16" weighs compared to the 1/8". Yes, I understand the math but that MF is heavy.

#870 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

The lift channel is rusted to the glass. How do I loosen that to replace or clean the channel?

It won't matter to you if you are getting new glass and channel.

But to answer your question, the channel is stuck to the glass with two small pieces of black cloth double back tape that wraps around both sides. You can take a razor knife and cut thru the tape on the front side of the glass to release its holding power. Once you have figured out how the front side works you can carefully cut the tape on the backside. Then you can take and awl of small screwdriver and carefully pry between the glass and the lift rail at the ends of the rail.

#876 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Anyone ever see a big game with a topper or anything else to advertise 7 digit displays? Might have been an idea that just never got used or I guess even a software bug that is unnoticed since Q18 is not used.

No.

But the 7 digit display was a master stroke in marketing. The 7th digit, i.e. the units digit never leaves zero. You can score 500 points. But you can never score 501 points or 509 points. You can score 510 points.

So, Stern added a 7th digit, but left it non-functional and still got to claim bragging rights for Seven Digits.

1 week later
#883 4 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Very nice. Looks pretty clean overall. Appears to have both original spinners, very little insert wear on the cards and it looks like the teardrop plastic is there although might be broken?
Really hard to find one so nice. Congrats!

I agree.

Quoted from jdoz2:

Poor photos, but I joined the club tonight!
This game looks like it’s going to clean up really nice! Lots of connectors need attention and need to order a BGresto backglass. Game boots and starts a game but no solenoids and the displays are throwing up random numbers.
Super happy with the game and can’t wait to get it flipping.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thrillhouse is making play filed protectors for Big Game. You should consider placing one on this nice play field. Play the hell out of it and keep in nice.

https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/product/playshield-playfield-protector

Oh yeah, unless you specify otherwise, BG Resto will send you a back glass that measures 3/16" thick instead of the 1/8" glass currently in your game.

#885 4 years ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

Ok, thank you for the heads up in the glass thickness. I assume that means his default thickness is a little too tight for trim and the slot in the head?

You can buy and will have to use a 3/16" lift rail and 3/16" side trim. But it will fit into the head without issue.

I just don't know where he came up with the idea that Big Game has a 3/16" thick backglass. My Hot Hand and Meteor back glasses are 1/8" thick.

My original BG back glass is 1/8" thick, as are Seawitch, Nine Ball, Catacomb, F2K, and Dragonfist. No one here responded that they had a 3/16" back glass.

Mine is nice. There is nothing wrong with it. But I would prefer a 1/8" thick glass.

Proper play field glass is 3/16" thick, though.

#887 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

the 1/8 is a snug fit with no wiggle room in the back cabinet for the big game i'm working on , i'm dumbfounded you have a 3/16 glass in yours and it fits and doesn't get jammed , i'd be shaving out the wood in my glass channel if that was sent to me and i wouldn't know any better .

Stern, or the cab builder, was so imprecise when building these pins. I got the glass in and still have room left over. What you say does not surprise me. Yours could be fixed with a little bit of work. It would not be difficult to do but you would need to do some paint touchup afterwards.

#890 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

I installed this protector over the weekend. There are debate threads about them on here and I got it based on the one consensus in those threads being that they're a good idea for early solid state games with imperfect inserts. The debate threads also mentioned that rollover inserts could be problematic with these protectors, but mine seems fine without any adjustment. The order included drop target shims to raise them a bit, but those also seem fine without adjustment. I only had to trim a small piece from the corner of one of the drop target areas for it to fit properly. The only negative so far is that it feels like it's a dust magnet in that if I'm working on the game for a few hours, raising and lowering the playfield, I feel like I see a spot here and a spot there where I have to take a soft cloth and wipe a few areas before putting the glass back on it.
Overall, it's worth the $90 to not feel like every game is slowly wearing away original artwork.

I think Thrillhouse makes is of .020" sheet. I made my own 3 years ago using .030" sheet. I had to remove my inserts and reset them .030" higher to match the "new" height. I had some cupped inserts. The pin played quite well with the protector on. But I restored and cleared the play field and like it better this way.

If you are happy with the way it plays you are good to go. But if you want level all you need to do is put some heat on your inserts, drive them out, and tap them back with a wood block to match the level of your protector. I never glued my inserts back in. I just tapped them with the wood block in and they stayed put.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

I kept pictures of my game from when I first bought it and periodically compare the wear on the playfield to how it is today. Thousands and thousands of plays later, no more wear. I think regular waxing and checking the ball condition does just as good as anything else.

I agree. My Dragonfist inserts have not cupped and I just keep it waxed. It still looks good.

My Catacomb and Nine Ball have many cupped inserts and they both got a protector.

2 weeks later
#896 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Yes I put Mylar on as well , I am hoping they don’t get caught if the Mylar starts peeling off
I am also looking for a pair of the metal brackets that go behind the top flippers , I thought I read that someone was going to make these ?

Thanks for reminding me that I need to contact Kerry at Mantis about making these as well as some other pin parts. He should be back at work now after a 2 week shutdown.

1 week later
#904 4 years ago

Ball Guides

I sent out the short ball guide that goes between the flippers to Kerry at Mantis on Monday. Kerry received it today. I'll share any news as it happens.

1 month later
#910 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Any News on these Ball Guides ?

Yes. I am preparing to send the measurements to the pinsider who is making the ball guides for Quicksilver and he will be making some of the Big Game ball guides.

#912 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Any News on these Ball Guides ?

Quoted from cottonm4:

Yes. I am preparing to send the measurements to the pinsider who is making the ball guides for Quicksilver and he will be making some of the Big Game ball guides.

Pinsider djblouw will be making these guides.

Here are the questions:

1) Would you prefer to have an exact duplicate of your factory guide with the angle brackets/tabs riveted on? Or would you prefer to have the angle brackets made as integral pieces of the stop plate using no rivets? I prefer the no-rivet style but if most here prefer the rivets, then he can go with the rivets. Speak up.

2) How many BG owners are interested in a pair? I cannot speak to the price he would have to charge, but the $5.00 NOS units that PBR had are long gone. You are probably looking at around $25.00 for a pair.

d7f7b5f3781ab978d74606190345ab5744247aaa (resized).jpgd7f7b5f3781ab978d74606190345ab5744247aaa (resized).jpg

#918 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Really? Right now I’ll try anything but a direct replacement. It only lasts for about a thousand plays or so before the legs break off.

Originally, I was going to hit him up to just bend and angle and drill two holes. That way there would be support all the across the stop plate.

However, there is a post that gets in the way of that idea. But I am going to ask if he could make the bend angle with about 1/4" of material on the bend side. That would be superior durability and still keep the bend part away from the post. If the bend is too deep then you have to modify a post to get the clearance that you need. But a bend all the way across would never break.

Any ideas and thoughts are welcome. Now is the time to speak up is you have any different ideas.

IMG_2781 (resized).jpgIMG_2781 (resized).jpg

#921 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

I like that idea ,then when it comes to the post being in the way , why not just use a dremel to cut the curve out around the post on the metal guide ,that way it will still be strong and one piece

A Dremel would work for me. And you. But I'm thinking that most are going to want to be able to open the box and install without any installation hassles. But if everybody would agree to buying something that needs modding before installation it would be easier to produce with just one bend and drilling two holes. Would it cost any less to produce? I have no idea.

I had clearance issue with my right guide. It was from the factory that way. I did some light modification to the post that was in the way and all went well.

But to ask everybody to step up and buy something that needs modded out of the box, would that go over with anybody besides you and me?

#923 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

I think that most people with these older games would have the ability to do these small alterations to the guide ,lets face it these older games need a little bit of tuning to keep them going , I would like the type with the bent up angle , hell I could even put a third hole in the middle of the plate for even extra support as well

I hope more people with your look on things will chime in. They are going to be made of stainless and I have no idea how hard stainless is to grind with a Dremel, so that has to be considered.

If people do not mind doing some mod work I have no problem with working for a complete angle.

#940 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

You can always change that plastic post to the thinner bobbin type if you need more room for the bracket.

This is one from the "why didn't I think of that dept " . That's a perfect solution.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8365-9

detail (resized).jpgdetail (resized).jpg

#947 4 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Sure, no problem. I'll ship to wherever, as long as the postage is paid for by the buyer.

For shipping those small guides to Canada, use the small cardboard box from the post office. The post office charges about $2.50 for the box. That will let you get them to Canada for around $10.00 shipping. You don't get any tracking info at the $10 price, though.

If you want tracking, you will have to pay Priority prices which will be around $30.00 !

I feel sorry for all the Maple Leafers and their crazy postage prices. Ordering parts up there is some serious business.

#949 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

My originals weren't busted, oddly, but I didn't like the way they worked

I am confused. All I experience is that they stop the ball from draining behind the flippers. It is kind like they are just there.

Quoted from slochar:

I think you should be able to let the upper flipper rest on the ball next to the guide and the natural spring return should push it out (otherwise, you could catch the ball under the flipper and tilt and not be able to get the ball out on location)

I have the glass off my BG so I tried what you describe. Just lifting the upper flipper and placing the ball between the flipper and the stop did not lock anything in. The ball just slid/rolled out and down to the drain. There is no trap that I can see.

What you say confuses me. I don't understand.

#951 4 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I wonder if a padded envelope would be better/cheaper?

Possibly. But the cost between USPS envelope and a USPS box is around a dollar difference. I don't think postage would be very much less, but don't know for sure. The same box I use (with less than one ounce weight ) to ship to Canada for the $10.00 only costs $3.50 to ship anywhere US.

For my Catacomb ball gate wires, I feel safer with the structural rigidity of the small box. But that could be misplaced faith, though.

#954 4 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Okay, I have them made. The first set is being sent to cottonm4 for test fitting.
If he gives the thumbs up, I’ll start shipping to everyone else.
Price will be $18 for a pair, plus shipping.[quoted image]

The ball stops arrived this afternoon. I have them installed. Installation was straight forward. I was going to play some games to check them out. but I can't.

Can somebody tell how in the gdFH a pin with no problems can sit for 3 weeks like a statue and as soon as I turn it on and hit the start button my two left flippers lock up and point up. It is something electronic because as soon as I turn the pin off the flippers return to rest.

Can things break from just sitting?

Here are the guides. I think that they are going to work real good.

IMG_2943 (resized).jpgIMG_2943 (resized).jpg IMG_2945 (resized).jpgIMG_2945 (resized).jpg

#963 4 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I put the green displays in.

Where did you get them?

#972 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Xpin has them too.

I looked at Xpin and the only colors I saw to choose from are orange and white.

#974 4 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

these are white pinitech uno display kit with i think doubled up dark red gels added
[quoted image]

How do you attach the gels , please?

4 weeks later
#1007 4 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Too bad about that NOS playfield on ebay in Argentina. All chewed up around one of the holes.

That's sad. It has to be from someone knocking out the inserts without heating them up first. Just grab a hammer and socket and start whacking. What a waste. It would cost a fortune to fix those.

2 weeks later
#1012 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Yeah good point. I’m not in a hurry. I’m hoping one falls in my lap eventually. Haha

Same here. but we can console ourselves that Big Game is the better of the two.

#1014 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Cabinet is coming along very Nicely
Nearly time to reassemble[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks very nice.

It seems most of the pics I have seen of the Big Game cabinet have the tiger on the right hand side of the coin door with the messed up eye. I know it is from the factory but I fixed mine when I did my cab awhile back. I think I have seen pictures of 2 cabs where the looks like what an eye is supposed to look like.

4b448dc9c93a68a3fd59afeb08eaa62b9404b42d.jpeg (resized).jpg4b448dc9c93a68a3fd59afeb08eaa62b9404b42d.jpeg (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1017 4 years ago
Quoted from Dicky:

Well its finally put back together
happy how its come up[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very Very Nice !

I see a Seawitch and a Nine Ball in the background. Yours?

1 week later
#1021 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

My Big Game is going to get some love this week.[quoted image][quoted image]

That's a nice looking play field.

I like you apron card. Got any to sell?

#1023 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

I printed them off pinside.

Huh?

#1026 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

There are threads dedicated to custom rule cards. He printed the images from one of those threads.

Thanks.

#1028 3 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Yep
Got that same card on mine but printed it so long ago I can't remember where exactly.
Not to worry cotton, it's out there. You just need to snoop around a bit.

Thanks.

#1030 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's pretty good touch up work

#1033 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

my cheetah needed a full play field paint job. Big Game was not that bad.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Did you do all of that touch up with just using a brush?

#1035 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Yes I did. It turns out nice. Then I use 2 part auto clear.

May I ask what type and brand of paint you are using? I have a Cheetah play field I might like restore.

How did you renew your lettering? Are you free handing the letters and numbers?

#1042 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Few pics with new plastics. New pop bumper skirts and body’s. New flipper bats and rebuilds. I am pretty happy with it. I need to find new drop targets. I bought the numbers to put on them but I think new ones would look best.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

PBR is the place to go for drop targets. Since you have the numbers new blank targets are $3.00 each. If you are wanting targets that are already printed you can only get 1 thru 5.

#1046 3 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Few pics with new plastics. New pop bumper skirts and body’s. New flipper bats and rebuilds. I am pretty happy with it. I need to find new drop targets. I bought the numbers to put on them but I think new ones would look best.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My plastics are not in bad shape, but I am going to have to buy some new plastics. These look nice.

I'm waiting for you tell us how you like playing it.

#1061 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

I sent CPR an email, and they said check back in 6 months. If enough of us send requests, they may do a small run.

I'm still waiting for the rerun of the corrected Catacomb play fields with the correct colored inserts.

#1062 3 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Interesting they would produce a
Catacomb with its limited numbers
and yet not even consider a Big Game?
Puzzling to me.

That is a good point. The Catacomb play field is just as intricate as the Big Game play field.

I thought my Nine Ball play field was good enough to use a donor but Stu said "no". So any BG play field sent in will need to be in very good condition.

I restored my play field but there are some minor issues. I would consider buying a repro if CPR were to make them.

#1064 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

So everyone big them

Huh?

#1065 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ve asked them lots and lots of times to the point they probably don’t like me very much. Even with their new process they are not interested in doing the work to get the art setup. I think they said they would need to sell at least 100 to make the work put into the artwork files worth it.

I offered my Dragonfist play field. Stu said it was of the quality that he would be interested. But then he said he talked it over with Kevin and they decided not enough would sell to make it worth their while.

#1066 3 years ago

I have to say this: It is nice to see Big Game getting some attention. It is a great player.

#1071 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

...but CPR did Catacomb. I'm sure they sold thousands of those.

Speaking of Catacomb, I sent an email to CPR asking how the reprints with the correct color inserts is progressing. They are printed and ready to clear coat, but the clear coat guy is not coming in due to the virus.
---------------------------------------------------

Yeah, I about fell over when I saw they were making Catacomb. This is a low production pin. Well, I am guessing low production since the production numbers were never published.

1 month later
#1079 3 years ago

I found flaw in my BG Resto back glass. It is minor, especially since I have had this glass for over a year. I'm stuck with what I have, but to anyone who is considering a BG Resto back glass for their Big Game, this is item #2 you need to hold BG Resto's feet to the fire on.

1) Item #1 was where I was sent a back glass that is 3/16" of and inch thick instead of the factory 1/8" thick back glass. Trust me, you really do not want a thicker back glass.

and

2) You will need get assurances that your back glass will say " Shoot Again" instead of " Shoo Again".

IMG_3542 (resized).JPGIMG_3542 (resized).JPG

#1081 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

I feel like you should not have been given such a thick glass when it is not the correct glass size. it was nice of you to have accepted it but this reminds me of the paranoia we all have had of the only guy who does this one at a time back glass reproduction and this method probably lends itself to the issue of a wide variant of mistakes.it seems like its a throw the money down and cross your fingers proposition every time . my wife thought "shoo again" was funny, it does kinda sound chinese broken engrish
question: have you inspected the other side of the glass? it is heavy i know and thats why i asked maybe you haven't done it check that the baffle that is stapled in may have fallen a little

Thanks for speaking up. It was the baffle. After I painted my lamp board, I reinstalled the baffle same position Stern had it installed in. So, from the factory, it said Shoo Again. I never caught it until yesterday.
=====================================================

I did not have a lot of choice but to accept it. I had bought 3 back glasses from him in one swoop. 2 of them ( not Big Game ) were defective and I had to send them back for replacements. Then I discovered this 3/16" inch shit and he swore up and down that that was factory for BG. I did an impromptu survey on this thread and no one had a 3/16" back glass. I bitched that my lift rail would not fit so he did send me a lift rail that did fit. He said he would send me the top rail that locks the glass in the back box, but he never did. I hate being treated like I am on a used car lot.

But as you say, he is the only game in town.

I have bought several items since being in this hobby and I just close my eyes and travel on. If some of this stuff had been bought at a local retailer I would have returned it.

#1083 3 years ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

Just joined the club! Such a great game!
[quoted image]

Congrats. Fun ain't it !

It is hard to say from your pic but your play field looks like it is in nice condition.

If you decide to get a new back glass I would make you a sweet deal on my BG Resto replacement unit so I could go buy another one made of the correct thickness of glass.

1 week later
#1084 3 years ago

RoyGBev read that I did not have the setup to make ROMs offerer to make me a set of ROMS using Scott Charles modification that allows the ball in play display to count up and display the number of spins both spinners make.

I ripped the inner spinner for 91 revolutions and a couple of balls later I got a rip of 93 revolutions.

It is a nice mod.

Thanks Scott Charles for writing it. And thanks to RoyGBev for burning me a set.

While I was waxing the play field I also took a look at my flipper coils to verify what I saw when I brought this pin home.

The blueprint calls for the inner (lower ) coils to be J-25-475/34-4500. It also calls for the upper (outer) coils to be J-25-500-34-5050.

All 4 of my flippers have the stronger J-475 coils installed. It was this way when I bought it. The flippers on this pin have always hit hard. Now I know why. If you juiced your outer coils Don't think you would be disappointed at all.

#1090 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Holy shit! I’ve only gotten around 60 and that’s been just a couple of time. That’s crazy good rippage there.

It surprised me, too.

Dragonfist my highest is 77 and I thought that was good.

#1091 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I don’t have the cleanest spinners in the world, but man mine seem to spin for days and don’t stop abruptly or anything. 90 plus spins seems impossible. Haha
But maybe it’s due to those more powerful coils and would explain why when I’ve played some other big games the flippers would shake the whole game. Haha

I put a drop of teflon lube on the spinner axles every once in a while. And I had just waxed my play field so the balls are moving fairly fast. And Big Game, as you know, is a speed demon.

I also work really hard to try to get the axles tweaked so the spinner is somewhat balanced.

1 month later
#1093 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Same here. I’ve tuned my spinners for years and was convinced 50-60 spins is the most possible. Crazy that nearly double that is possible.

I just finished rolling the inner spinner for 102 spins. I feel like a 5 year old kid when this happens.

The most I have ever got on Dragonfist is 77 spins. I don't know why this particular spinner is so loose. I think I managed to get something like 62 or 63 on the outer spinner.

#1095 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Please record a video. I don’t believe it. Haha
Do you have the original spinners in it?

I have a couple of the Stern White with red lighting bolts installed. Don't want to mess up my Original BG spinners.

I have had a couple of other fast spins happen the the ball drained. The outhouse switch instantly kills the spinner score.

I do want get my 2 small cameras set up and take some video. Just have not got there yet.

#1097 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Is that with the latest mod version 7d? I'd added code to specifically check the spinner timers, like later games (stock) do.

Yes. I have 7D.

#1099 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Grab some video if you can I'll have to see it in action. Did the spinner count stay on the display when the ball drained?

As soon as the ball drains the spin counter goes away. I have had 2 or 3 times when the spinners were spinning robustly after the ball drained. When that happens, the ball in play display goes to zero and then resets to the ball in play number. I'm not sure, but I think the ball in play number does not came back until the spinning stops--even though the spin counter has stopped.

I'll try to get my cameras set up next week.

#1101 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

ok, it was 'one level removed' from where I thought it was. Can you burn roms yourself? I can't test the fix right now because all the stuff that's involved with the f2k testing is blocking access to the biggame - if you can burn, PM your email and I'll send you a beta to try out.
Basically, the outhole routine was turning off the active game flag, which the spinners test to see if they should even score. So I reversed the order of that happening, don't let the active game flag get cleared until the scoring events are finished.

I cannot burn ROMs. A pinside friend in Arkanas burned a set for me. It is not a big deal to me if an occasional drain shuts down the spin counter. I mean, I did get 102 spins on the inner spinner; That was cool and a big surprise.

I don't mean to sound trite, but I'll worry about it later.

#1105 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Just found out all my flippers are the weaker coil types. I’m going to bump them up and see if I can’t rip some better spinners.

The manual calls for J-25-500s in the upper flippers and J-25-475s in the lowers.

Mine had the 475's loaded in all 4 flippers when I got it so I cannot compare. But I have never been unhappy with the power of the hits. I think you will enjoy the swap.

Light it up !

#1106 3 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

It's pretty arguable that a drained ball shouldn't stop the spinners from counting anyway. Each spin is a switch close that occurs *after* the ball is in the trough. Too-bad, so sad in my book.

I don't mind. I'm am not competing with anybody else. If it was a free upgrade I would look into it, but I paid my acquaintance $25.00 for the ROMs.

I don't recall ever watching to see if the spinner still scored after a drain. I imagine the spinner still scored but I cannot attest to that.

2 weeks later
#1111 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjames:

Hi, anyone sell decals or can make decals for the 1-9 for this game out there?
Just picked up a really nice one of these and I’d really like to get those to complete my Game. Thanks.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

What does it have in it currently? If they are original you can touch them up to look like new and cover with Mylar to protect them forever.

For drop targets, Tractor Doc sells the 1-9 vinyl stickers. These would NOT be suitable for play field inserts. But, like Chuckwurt says, you can touch up the original drop targets and cover with mylar. I did that 3 years ago and still going strong.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1169-doc-s-pinball-shop/02288-classic-stern-drop-target-number-decals

#1114 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballjames:

It has some of the originals still but it’s blank on some and I don’t think I have the skills to touch them up and look good too.
Awesome! I had a feeling somebody made these but I could not find them. Thanks guys!
This is the second or third time I’ve owned this Pinball and this time I’m keeping this one. Such a fun game.

You can buy new drop targets at Pinball Resource but only for numbers 1 thru 5. 6-7-8- and 9 will require Tractor Doc's vinyl decals.

#1119 3 years ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

could someone get me the dimensions for the playfield glass? don't have one for my cab and need to get one cut locally. thanks.

45 5/8" long x 24 5/8" wide x 3/16" thick.

#1122 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Ime. The 25k red lights in front of the drop targets and the 2x and 3x bonus lights always flicker. I had to go back to incandescent for those. I use an alltek board.
Maybe adding a resistor to those sockets will do it. Have never tried.

I don't have any lights flickering on mine. I use Comet LEDs and an Alltek board and the LED adaptor boards. My problem is the number 8 in the "X" card. When the cards are cycling lights and scores after a ball drain, that # 8 stays lit up all the time.

#1124 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What are led adapter boards? Why use them AND alltek?

You know, those 555 bulb adaptor boards. I suppose LED adaptor boards is not the correct terminology. Sorry.

M0ZFNUZFRjZCRDU5RDU1RjNCQkE6Mjg5OThmNTYzNjcwMWZjNDg0ZmI1NjZhYjQxOGEwMzE6Ojo6OjA_360x (resized).jpgM0ZFNUZFRjZCRDU5RDU1RjNCQkE6Mjg5OThmNTYzNjcwMWZjNDg0ZmI1NjZhYjQxOGEwMzE6Ojo6OjA_360x (resized).jpg

#1137 3 years ago

You guys have good eyes.

Somehow, it/they have to be related to the extra rod that sits in front of the outlane.

I don't know what the rod is for either.

Both Big Game and Ali have these rods in front of the outlanes. All the others have the rubber post bumper in front of the outlanes.

IMG_4024 (resized).JPGIMG_4024 (resized).JPG

#1139 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

i think your right to reduce cost they may have moved away from the flyer type to just adding a little rod post , notice all that bend in the post , and a rubber bumper post might slow the flow here they have even covered the rubber above with more metal to keep the flow going faster down the inlanes feeding the flippers

The post is not bent. What has happened is the constant ball impact has "stretched" the hole that the post lives in. I have a fix coming for this but my hands are full.

#1141 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Take the nail out. Fixed. Haha

I have thought about that. What is it there for? How does it affect ball play at the out lanes? Maybe I will just take them out and try that.

1 week later
#1160 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

well you guys are welcome since I for sure drove the price up on this one.

You only disappoint those who do not already own one.

#1161 3 years ago

I paid $500.00 for mine in 2015. But restored the play field that was in good condition.

#1162 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

well you guys are welcome since I for sure drove the price up on this one.

And the guy who offered $1300.00 is still blowing bubbles for missing the market.

#1164 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

you guys do not seem to want to let them go. I see why now, fantastic game play.

Wait until you get all 27 bingo card lights lit. It is beautiful if you are playing in dimly lit room.

Mine's nailed down.

#1167 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

You mean all 54 lights?

I have not made 54 yet. I was 3 away during one game.

If you lit them all twice you sure have been keeping it a close secret

I had my best first ball the other day. 900,000 points on ball one. But the game finished at less than a million

I did get another super spin on that inner spinner. It was rolling very fast but then I hammered it again and wound up with 125 spins. I know. I know. I need to get the cams set up.

#1171 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I bet you’re hitting it twice before the counter resets. No way you got 125 in one spin. What’s the most you’ve gotten from one spin?

Yes. It was still spinning when I hit it a 2nd time and added to the spin momentum. The most for one spin was 105. The most for the outside spinner is something like 55- 60.

#1177 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Okay that makes more sense. Still not sure how you’re getting 105 from one rip but 55-60 on the outside is right in line with mine.
Would love to see that inner spinner rip. I can’t get more than 70 or so with my finger! Haha
What pitch you at? I got my back legs jacked up all the way.

I have 31" legs in the back and "lowered" the slope just a very little bit by raising the front legs. I put my gauge on the glass and the slope measures 7.1%.

Those super spins are coming from the lower left flipper.

#1178 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I had my legs jacked up all the way when I got mine home I was getting my azz kicked. I had to drop it down some.

Not being all that great of a player, I go for easy. You might want to set up with 5 ball play for awhile which gives you more of a change to light the bingo cards.

Eventually, I got good enough that I switch to 3-ball play.

#1181 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

An on the fly backhand? I could maybe see that. Seems like yours are similar performance to mine. Similar pitch too.

Yes. On the fly. It is not a targeted shot. More like shoot hard and hope for the best

#1188 3 years ago

Pop quiz:

What color are the 3 bingo cards?

IMG_4155 (resized).JPGIMG_4155 (resized).JPG

#1194 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

I can make them, PM me with a pic of your MPU board that shows the EPROMS.

I'm putting in a good word for RoyG. He is the one who made my Big Game ROMs.

#1202 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Sweet. Would love to hear if the transition to the upper flipper is nice and smooth. Maybe we can get them remade.

So I am wondering if they perform better than the guide wire we are all used to? And wondering what the game designer was trying to achieve with this style?

The ball only contacts one teeny tiny line on any ball guide.

Did Stern decide to dump them due to cost considerations?

#1219 3 years ago
Quoted from GoldenOreos:

man those look better than the wire guide, wonder why they aren't common. looks like it will fix the ball hop.

Quoted from woody76:

yea, that ball hop does suck

You keep talking about ball hop. My Big Game suffered from ball hop on the right flipper when I brought it home. My hop issue was because the ball guide was dislocated at the factory.

It took me 5 minutes to fix the problem. Let me see some pics of where your ball hop is happening. I might be able to tell you how to fix it.

#1221 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

cottonm4 made a good point and wondered how bad the top of that lane would be on the ball? Would it cause the ball to get nicked up easily?
I definitely want to try a set of these though.

For four years I have been looking at these ball guides on PBR's website. I did not know what they were until woody came along.

So, I bought them and was going to tell everyone here that PBR has some. Turns out the pair he had and that I bought were his only pair.

I may not install them. If the ball is going to come crashing down into a sharp edge on the outlanes hundreds of time, I'm thinking the ball with turn into a scratched up mess in short order.

Screen Shot 2020-08-12 at 9.48.12 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-08-12 at 9.48.12 AM (resized).png

#1222 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Mine is from the back guide getting work out from the ball hitting it so much. So the hole the guide goes in allows the guide to sit back causing ball hop. Terrible design.

Put up a pic. I"d like to see.

I havre to leave for a haircut

#1232 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from slochar:

chuckwurt do you have the proper flipper bats on your game - those look like the fatter Bally profile ones - one of the symptoms - flipper hop!
Otherwise pull that guide fill it and drill it then reinstall. Flipper hop is eminently fixable relatively easily.
Sometimes you have to move the flipper mech in the PF which is the most involved it'll end up being, but flipper hop sucks and is worth pursuing fixes.

Mine had the same problem. It is an easy fix. Remove all of parts around your flipper so you have easy access.

1) Get a piece of plastic 1/8" thick. A cheap paint stir stick will work.

2) Drill a hole in the plastic same diameter of the holes in the play field (.093" I think ). You want the hole to be near the edge of the plastic as you do not want a lot of excess material getting in your way.

3) Place the flipper end of the ball guide into the hole you drilled in the plastic. Now slide the plastic to a point to where the ball guide will be located just a little bit above where it meets the flipper. You want the ball just barely dropping off onto the flipper so you get a straight run from the guide to the flipper and on down to the flipper tip.

4) Tape the plastic into position.

5) Remove the guide from the hole you drilled in the plastic.

6) Drill a new hole in your play field at the position of the hole in your plastic (What you made is a drill guide ).

7) Remove the plastic that you taped down.

Install the flipper end of the guide into the new hole you drilled. Your hop is now no more.

Do you need to use the plastic? No. Not really. But the plastic lets you slide the guide into the proper position without having to resort to bending the guide. Your hole will be dead on proper placement every time.

#1233 3 years ago

Steve at PBR is fast. I ordered 2 days ago. My order is here.

Here is a pic of the ball guides at the entry point. I'm thinking the rough edges will cut and scratch the ball. Especially when you consider the impact forces when the ball collides on its way to the drain.

I a going to (attempt ) to file the rough edges and try and round them out just like the guide that is already there. To install, I will have to drill 2 holes into the rail. I will also have to drill a hole in my restored play field but the hole will be well hidden so I have no issue with that.

This will be next week's project.

Now, I need to sit down and write a check to PBR. No way do I want to find myself on Steve's slow-pay list

IMG_4247 (resized).JPGIMG_4247 (resized).JPGIMG_4248 (resized).JPGIMG_4248 (resized).JPG
#1236 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Do both your brackets that screw into the rail match? mine have different shapes. Just wondering if they are all like that?

Mine are a matching pair. L & R opposites.

#1237 3 years ago

I installed the left side guide a few minutes ago.

I have played a few games. I don't see any change in inlane performance. So, don't feel cheated performance wise.

By using a small pice of wood for alignment, I set it to exit just above the base circle of the flipper.

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I had filed the front edge to round and smooth it out but that was not needed. I was able to position the new guide in the same place as the old guide and was able to leave that strange little rod in place. So, there is no change in the drain action.

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When installed, it is barely noticeable except for the "T" mounting bracket.

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#1239 3 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

not the best solution but I've used lamp sockets to make replacements and rivet them on.

But you can take two lamp socket straps, but each one to 90 degrees, nest them together with a little JB Weld or some Gorilla Glue. Then drill your holes. Mickey Mouse way of making a bracket? Sure, but everybody has some old 44 lamp sockets laying around. They are great lightweight bracket making material.

#1240 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

awesome, can't wait to get mine on.

Now that I have them I will put the other side on, as. well. They are a strange looking piece. I'm guessing Stern considered them too costly when compared to a piece of wire.

But I was working fine before with the wire. I do not understand Stern's logic with making these.

#1243 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

i love the extra mirror surfaces on the metal of those

Yeah, but like so many other thing with pinball, when you are playing you don't notice them. What I do see are those big brackets holding the guides to the rails. It is not the best finish on those brackets. I'm thinking that I might try to hide a little with some semi-gloss black paint.

EDIT: I know what I can do. Those brackets should make some excellent spot light mounts.

#1247 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

My pf is heading to Keith Holbrook this week
Looking forward to y'all figuring out those ball guides in the meantime
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hire him to remove and reset all of the inserts, too.

#1250 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

i would buff those big brackets to a mirror finish, like the rest of it

The brackets are not smooth surfaces. I can polish them but mirror finish is not possible.

#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

I’m hoping not terribly long. I’ll probably let it cure a few months before I reinstall it but I’ll post pics when I get it back.

Figure Keith will have it for a year.

#1255 3 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Yeah, I think these could be done. Are we thinking just the prototype flap, or the entire ball guide?

These are a little bit different than the big orbit guides on Seawitch and Quicksilver. They are rigid with very little flex. There is enough flex to get them mounted but they are stiff. When you think about it, they have to be stiff as board, otherwise ball impact would be moving them around.

Quoted from woody76:

nice score man. I would love to get these made by djblouw. Your set might be in better shape than mine as far as the bend goes. I can send mine no problem, but with broken brackets and possible bend being off some might cause issues.

Quoted from woody76:

Do both your brackets that screw into the rail match? mine have different shapes. Just wondering if they are all like that?

I saw your pics with the mismatch parts. Looks like you will need to take a grinder to the one side if you want them to match.

I got the right side installed a few minutes ago. The right side not line up as good as the left side. I could make the right side match to get rid of the over hang but for performance the guide is lined up perfectly behind the "nail".

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#1257 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

yeah see your black paint idea . a little far out there but an old plastic piece cut tastefully to fit on top of the bracket with little excess

I like that idea. I can get some black plexiglass at the local plastics shop. That might look good. Thanks.

#1260 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Cottonm4 invited me on this safari. Wants to see the tiger I bagged recently. Here's my story:
I learned of a family with an old pin about 4 miles away. Last Sunday I drove out to their house (10 minutes) to check it out. Lo and behold, in their garage was this tiger staring me in the face. I could see this tiger had power but it didn't move. The lady told me they purchased it about 20 years ago (or maybe it died 20 years ago, I forget). I offered her to bag it and she said ok. Loaded it up and brought it home.
Now for the pin: Wouldn't boot. Replaced 5 chips on the MPU. Repaired one broken wire to the knocker solenoid. Stripped and cleaned the playfield, and installed new rubbers and lamps. Waiting for a fiber link to the flipper and a spinner assembly (which was totally missing)...BUT I HAVE PLAYED IT ALREADY with 3 flippers! Pretty darn cool. Love the sounds and action. If I keep it I need to sell something. I just don't have any more space. This is sitting in the walkway in my garage! What a dilemma
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That play field will clean up nice.

Thanks for showing it.

EDIT: You have a nice collection. It will be a hard decision.

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I would find a way to hang on to that one if I was you.

You guys are both new to Big Game. That piece of plastic up behind the 1-2-3 targets likes to break at the small neck. I recommend that you get a piece of plastic and make protector to take any ball impact and keep that one plastic safe.

#1264 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Thanks for the heads up. Can you shoot me a pic of what you have?

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#1265 3 years ago

Something else: Pinsider Thrillhouse makes play field protectors for several Sterns, including Big Game. I have never used Thrillhouse's protectors so I cannot speak to them directly, however, the one he has on this Big Game looks nice.

Before I restored and cleared my play field, I made a protector on my own to smooth out the inset bumps and keep the play field from wearing more.

Big Game has 5 rollover targets. For best performance, you need to remove the rollovers and reset them to match the height of the protector.

I am in the process of hand cutting a protector for a Hot Hand. They take a lot of time to make. This my 5th self made protector. And this one is my 2nd attempt as I made a bad cut on my first one for HH. I had to trash it and start over. I'll have 20 hours of my time invested.

https://www.beehivepinball.com/product/pinball-playshield-protector

The $80.00 being charged for these is a very fair price. IMO.

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#1268 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I got one of his protectors for Big Game. Going to try to get it done this weekend. It seems to be very well made and did not come rolled up. That was the first thing I asked when I purchased it. When you say remove the rollovers are you saying the entire rollover insert and reseat?

Your new protector is probably made of material measuring .020" thick. Every time the ball crosses a rollover it is going to be deflected a little bit due to uneven surfaces. Try your protector with no other changes and see how you like the play action. For me, it was never a question that I wanted 100% level play field surfaces.

Yes, you remove the entire assembly. The red plastic plus the star. Lay down your protector and then add the rollover back and tap it down with a piece of wood so it is leve with the protector. I never reglued my rollovers. I just tapped them down and the fit was tight enough that they just stayed put. And then when I had the play field restored, all that was needed was to just tap out the rollovers and reset them flat with the play field using glue for a permanent bond. And with a newly cleared play field I tossed the protector in the corner where it still sits.

Here are the main things you need to watch for when installing your protector. It has to be free-floating. It cannot touch any play field part. The heat from the play field lights bring on thermal expansion and the protector "swells" in size. If there is any contact between a play field post up in the back and another post down low in the front, your protector will hump up in the middle. Maybe it affects game play; Maybe it doesn't.

Since no two play fields are exactly alike, you will need to put your Hawkeye on places of interference. For instance, if you raise those rollovers, you run the risk they will come in contact with the protector and cause humping issues. So, you will need to keep your Dremel tool with some sanding drums handy so you can remove material.
==========================

Best way to install: Protectors are scratch resistant, no scratch proof. When you pull your protector from the package, LEAVE the protective peel layer on. Do not remove the protective film unit you have verified your fit and made any necessary mods.

1) Remove your plastics

2) Remove the rubbers

3) Remove the play field posts from around your sling shots. With these posts out of the way it will make it easier for you to lift your protector for any minor fitment work. and it will be easier to lay back down. Once you are satisfied that you have a good fit everywhere else, then put your sling posts back on and make you have clearance around those posts.

3A) Then turn the pin on for several minutes and check to make sure you haver no interference with any play field parts. It could be a little itty bitty corner of protector material meeting a wire ball guide causing you interference issues. Get a magnifying glass if you need to.

4) Do you wax or not wax your play field before installing? Some say use Naptha and Novis to clean your play field and use no wax. I used wax for extra play field protection but what happens is that wax residue will start making an ugly looking showing under your protector. Let your conscience be your guide.

5) One you are happy with the fit, remove the lower side protective film and put the protector down.

5) And then remove the topside protective film.

6) I don't care how many times you clean your play field, once you lay the protector down and start playing you will see dirt that you thought you got but did not.

7) Once installed, leave your plastics off for several games and keep your eye out for hidden dirt that appears to plague you. You may need to remove the protector for one last cleaning.

DIRT: A human hair will distort the optics of the protector but not affect game play. A small sliver of wood or a hangnail will affect ball action.

#1269 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Thanks for the heads up. Can you shoot me a pic of what you have?

Something else to spend your money on, Jethro.

The 27 lights for all 3 bingo cards are a PIA. Pinballreplacementparts.com gets you into the 21 Century.

M0ZFNUZFRjZCRDU5RDU1RjNCQkE6Mjg5OThmNTYzNjcwMWZjNDg0ZmI1NjZhYjQxOGEwMzE6Ojo6OjA_1024x1024@2x (resized).jpgM0ZFNUZFRjZCRDU5RDU1RjNCQkE6Mjg5OThmNTYzNjcwMWZjNDg0ZmI1NjZhYjQxOGEwMzE6Ojo6OjA_1024x1024@2x (resized).jpg

https://pinballreplacementparts.com/products/stern-big-game-under-playfield-lamp-boards-set-of-3

1 week later
#1287 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I finally got my BG all finished up. I went with a beehive playfield protector for now and if I find it is a long term keeper I will eventually send off to keith holbrook. Rebuilt the flippers while I had the bats off and that took way longer than installing the protector. I also removed the 2 bally bats and installed stern bats and that took away the ball hop. Back to the protector, beehive has a very nice quality product. Fit perfect with NO modifications needed. I removed the bats and pop bumper caps and layed it right in place. The playfield protector probably only took about 30 minutes to install and looks very nice and plays way nicer than I thought it would. With everything dialed in I must say BG is shaping up to be one of my favorites. I will probably order a new backglass and leave it alone after that.

Make sure you let BG Resto that you want your Big Game back glass to be printed on 1/8” glass, unless you do want it printed on 3/16”.

#1288 3 years ago

After putting these strange looking inlane guides on I have some new play action happening on my Big Game.

For first time on this pin, I am getting balls that run up the inlanes in reverse and come out on the top. There is no reason that this could not have happened in the last 4 years but it only started happening after I put these guides on.

Coincidence? Possibly.

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#1294 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Well these attach to the playfield like the under the flipper guides right with tabs? I figured you could move them to any position you want.

You only have to drill one hole in your play field, which is nice.

#1297 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

had my best game tonight. what a amazing pinball machine this is. I might have the chance at a catacomb soon. how does it compare to BG?

Catacomb is a must have if you like Sterns. It is harder to play; takes a lot of practice. It also took 2-3 hours of play to really like it. Once you cross over to where you can play it you will want to play more.

Cat and Big Game are my two faves.

#1299 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

it is definitely different and an acquired taste but if you have several other machine it is definitely fun

You do have a nice collection of classic Sterns.

#1304 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

And playing the bagatelle is seems to luck based to me. Hard to control where the ball ends up.

There is a lot of luck. I agree.

But there is a decent amount of skill involved, as well. A player with a light flipper touch can influence which column the balls goes down. A heavy nudge and hard hit to the flipper can usually get you down Column "A" 80% of the time. A light flipper touch can get you into Column "D" 70% of the time. ( My percentages are WAG numbers but you get the idea. )

There is still a lot of chance, but a skillful player will have an edge over someone just stepping up to the pin. It is not like stepping up to Seawitch.

#1307 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

That gives me an idea for a software mod on it

I don't have a problem with the balls just sort of finding their way into the locks. My problem with multi-ball on Catacomb is that you can be in the middle of a multi-ball session and the balls can and do fall back into a lock and it ends the mutual-ball session "early".

If you could do a mod that kicked the balls back onto the play field while multi-ball is in session, that would be help a lot. And then multi-ball would only end after the last ball drained.

Oh, and a spinner counter, of course
--------------------------------------------------

What are you wanting to do on only the last ball of the game?

#1310 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I mean do the multiballs even do anything outside of multiple balls in play?

Getting all 16 lights in the Bonus section is no easy task. But if you can keep a multi-ball session going for a few seconds, you will look up and see the 3 balls blasting around the play field really helps in getting those lights lit.

As for multi-ball times, it is short. Multi-ball is easier on my Robocop than it is on Catacomb.

#1311 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

The bagatelle only on the last ball. It's been several years since I've played/had one so maybe that is too radical.

You have to look at the bagatelle as crutch for weaker players. Without that 2nd chance to score some points on the " bonus " section, the pin would be unplayable to all except for the Roger Sharps of the world.

A weak player will say "this pin sucks" as he continously drains the ball and "gets stuck" in the bagatelle. But as his playing improves, he will spend more time hitting the drop targets and lighting the lights and less time in the bagatelle. I have managed to get 14 of the 16 lights lit on ball 1. It was a wild playing ball; very intense.

If you don't like the bagatelle, do not buy the pin. The pin cannot be played without it.

#1312 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Well if you’re competing with someone that’s never played they are screwed unless you teach them the back box rules.

I can teach you the rules 100% easy enough. And you might get lucky and beat me. But there is no substitute for practice and the odds will be in my favor.

#1318 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I wonder if it would’ve played better and allowed for direct shots to the locks as a wide body.

Big Game is plenty fast, as you know. Catacomb is faster, and part of that is due to the standard size cab. I like it as is, but realize not everyone shares my enthusiasm.

All I can really say is that while I like it at home, there is no way I would start feeding this pin quarters in the arcade. I'd be broke in an hour, if not 20 minutes.

#1320 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I watched that video you sent me, insane how fast it plays.

You you only saw the bottom part of the play field in that video.

#1322 3 years ago

I bought these from a pinsider. I can't remember his name but he is still making these. He is on another pinside thread. Give me a chance to find him.

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#1326 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

are those titan flipper rubbers you got?

Yeah, I think these are Titans. I usually use Superbands. But I think when I bought some inventory from Titan at TPF, I believe I bought the Big Game flipper rubbers, as well.

I really like them. But I like my Superbands, too.

1 week later
#1335 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ll let mine go for $10k.

Since we already hav a BG, it is nice for this game to start getting the recognition it deserves.

2 weeks later
#1341 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Those lane guides we recently found out about are becoming more and more common

Strange how this is working. I've been here 4 years and they are just now showing up.

#1344 3 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Begs the questions, which flipper mech style is on it, tractordoc? Likely gen 1 version?

Big Game is the 2nd generation of flipper assemblies.

#1348 3 years ago

My best 1st ball ever for the bingo card lights. But it really was not a killer ball and the score is not that high. It took the Extra Ball and Ball 2 to get that last light lit.

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#1355 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Having the cards reset also makes you switch strats and actively go for them if you’re close.

What I am slowly learning, some from watching your Twitch video, is to go after that spinner when lit for 2000 points per spin. This is a good way to win a replay.

But not knowing much, and playing at home, I immediately went for the bingo cards.

1 week later
#1365 3 years ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

So careful shooting to fill the bingo cards is fun but not the key to a replay? Reminds me a bit of my Hot Hand: Four flushes are VERY hard to get, and nearly impossible by chance. But you can just bat the ball around and rip the spinner and beat it anyway. I would like rules that give the best points advantage by far to players who understand the rules.

If I was dropping coins into BG I would concentrate my efforts on getting the yellow spinner lit and go all out for it until I won my free game. After that I would go for the bingo cards. Getting all 27 lights lit is always a challenge and not an easy task and that makes them fun

1 week later
#1371 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

new game for trade came up "nice" odd thing is the pins under the flippers , i used the holes to align my flippers never saw pins there , has anyone ever seen this before?
[quoted image]

Nice play field .

2 months later
#1381 3 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I found this Stern Big Game backglass for sale
$200
Melbourne, FL
Pinsider droogpunk
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/108192

Quoted from SergioJ:

Wow....good condition? Really? What happened to the reds lol.......

I think it is a prototype back glass. I'd like to have it.

The seller says it is local sale only. We have traded PMs and I said I could ship a box with a return ticket and he liked that. But when I asked to talk on the phone to get a little more detail, he has bolted. I look at his Pinside bonafides and see he has been on pinside for just 2 weeks and has made one post.

Are there any pinsiders that live in Melbourne/Palm Bay Florida that could pick this up for me and then I do business with you?

#1384 3 years ago
Quoted from bluespin:

You could ask him if he could deliver it to a Mailboxes etc., or UPS store. They can package it and ship to you.

I appreciate the suggestion, but if you ever priced the UPS Store for shipping a back glass, you will choke on your coffee. Anyway, I managed to get something worked out with the seller. If all goes as planned, I should have that white back glass loaded into my back box in 10-14 days. To tell the truth, I do not know if it will look all that good on my Big Game. But I just had to have it.

I"m quite positive it is the real deal. But I just don't know what the real deal is. Was it one of one? Or one of ten? I know nothing about it.

#1385 3 years ago
Quoted from SergioJ:

I guess it’s possible. I have an early Star-jet glass where they either missed or just didn’t include the orange screen. That could be what happened here, no red screen.

Compare mine on the left and the White one on the right. The white in the face is extremely white; Same for the teeth. The eyes are with instead of yellow. The tips of the leaves new white and not yellow. The nose and tongue are white with some shades of pink. The white in the whiskers is also white

I see some cracks in the paint. Would I rather that not be there? Sure. But the glass is still presentable.

I could have bought a pig in a poke, but never having seen one before I decided to take a chance.

Correction: I have seen this white back glass before. It is over at VP Forums in the downloads section for the items that are available for the Big Game downloads. So more correctly, I have not seen this glass, only an artist rendition of this glass.

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#1387 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

I would be interested in your old glass if you sell it

That old glass in my BG Resto replacement. I do have my original old back glass. It has some flaking which I could probably mask with a couple of decals. I can get you some pics if you are still interested. Send me a PM and I set it up.

1 week later
#1396 3 years ago

The unusual back glass that I bought from a pinside ad has arrived. You will like it or not like it. it is not is good shape. There is a lot of cracking in the ink; It looks OK when the pin is off but there are a lot of light leaks when on. I'm still getting used to it. If it grows on me I may contract BG Resto and have him do his magic.

Whatever it is it is the real deal. It is factory printed. There are no reds and no yellows. There is a touch of pink on both sides of the nose and the tongue. The eyes are white.

If it does not grow on me, then I will frame it and hang it.

It is so unusual. I am thinking of sending a PM to Todd Tuckey and see if the depths of his pinball knowledge can shed some light on this glass.

And many many thanks to Bluepin for linking the ad to the Big Game thread. I would probably never have seen it otherwise.

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#1399 3 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Can anyone tell me if there are
stencils available for Big Game?
Thanks

Pinball Pimp has them. But these were so simple I made my own with tracing paper and then transferred the trace to some poster board and laid them on the cabinet loosely. This gave the the fuzzy edges around the the figures that made it look sort of factory.

#1400 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

I say get it restored. It’s rare and looks pretty cool.

Actually, he does not restore this one. He will pattern it somehow and send something new that looks good. In that case I could hang the original on the wall, and if someone else wanted a white one then it would be possible to have one.

#1402 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

It doesn’t look too bad from the pics.

It is photogenic

#1404 3 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Every other Classic BUT Big Game!?!

maybe it was a UK or European supplier. I’ll look around. But I did see them

#1406 3 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

yea, seems like i have seen them somewhere as well

Hey, do you want me to get you some pics of my original Big Game back glass? It needs some work and would get you by but IMO, BG Resto is the way to go.

I would sell my BG Resto back glass but not interested in giving it away.

#1409 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Compare mine on the left and the White one on the right. The white in the face is extremely white; Same for the teeth. The eyes are with instead of yellow. The tips of the leaves new white and not yellow. The nose and tongue are white with some shades of pink. The white in the whiskers is also white
I see some cracks in the paint. Would I rather that not be there? Sure. But the glass is still presentable.
I could have bought a pig in a poke, but never having seen one before I decided to take a chance.
Correction: I have seen this white back glass before. It is over at VP Forums in the downloads section for the items that are available for the Big Game downloads. So more correctly, I have not seen this glass, only an artist rendition of this glass.
[quoted image]

I sent a PM to Todd Tuckey asking him if his extensive pinball knowledge could identify what this "white" back glass I bought could be. He has no idea, either.

Perhaps I am making a sweet lemons argument since I spent some cash to buy it, but the look is growing on me.

#1411 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think it’s ugly as hell and just looks like an extremely faded original, but appreciate if it’s a super rare prototype glass. I say just hang it and enjoy it.

It is definitely a polarizing opinion maker but it is not a faded original.

I wish it was not a flaky mess but it is what it is. In the end I will probably frame and hang it, as you suggest.

I first saw this white one when I was downloading Big Game onto my visual pinball machine at Vpforums.org. That would have been in 2013-2014 before I bought my real Big Game. So when bluespin linked the sale page, I knew I wanted it for the curious oddity that it is.

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#1413 3 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

If it were some sort of prototype, why would they choose super hot white as the color for it?

I wish I knew. Nothing about it makes any sense. I highly doubt that this is the only one that was produced, but can find nothing out about it. But it does not look like an aftermarket reproduction.

Quoted from Agent_Hero:

It doesn't draw more attention to the game, it doesn't save them any money over using the standard red.

Agreed.

As I sit here and say it is the real deal, I keep thinking about that old gal with that painting she thinks was painted by Jackson Pollock.

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But it frames nicely with the two tiger heads on the cab.

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#1415 3 years ago

For being a cynic, I'll raise you.

Here is the backside. It looks like my original BG back glass with the same silk screening. I suppose a mad scientist could have cooked this up in his backyard garage, but it has that factory look.

I'm thinking with the use of my glass bottom scanner on my BG Resto back glass and some waterslide decals that I might be able to improve some of the areas that are badly flaked and clean it up a little bit. All of the black areas can be touched up with some black enamel from the hobby shop. I have already tested white decal material and it will let light shine through. I have to think on it for awhile.

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#1417 3 years ago
Quoted from Dragon:

the 1980's had problems with the red pigments used on anything that was exposed to the sun
the lack of red in the back glass could be from a very long exposure to sun light, the thing that i find interesting is there is a lack of yellows in the leaves as well and could it be that the pigment used for yellow had the same problem
can you see any tell tale yellow in the leaves?

I see no red or yellow fade of any kind. All of the leaves that are yellow on the original are white and some of them are a light beige. However, the light beige is also on the original, but the yellow sort of masks the beige where the white does not. One more "however", there are 4 leaves on the bottom under the Big Game that are yellow. One of the leaves fades from green to yellow to white, but it does not look like sun damage.

The nose and tongue are white except where some pink has been printed to add a little depth.

Screen Shot 2021-01-20 at 9.32.29 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-01-20 at 9.32.29 AM (resized).png

#1421 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Does anybody, buy any chance, could post a realy good closeup picture of the double spinner
playfield lion? In focus, With out the red main and mini posts?
Regards.

Is this what you are looking for?

Full size

Screen Shot 2021-01-25 at 7.42.19 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-01-25 at 7.42.19 PM (resized).png

Oversize

Screen Shot 2021-01-25 at 7.43.03 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-01-25 at 7.43.03 PM (resized).png

#1427 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Yes, that is the one I am working on... Just need some more pictures to
delineate what is and what is not...There are a lot of white dots that should or should not be...
as well as the gold/black/international red art... some of it is clear some of it is not.
The more pictures the better to discern the artwork layers.
regards.

I scanned my Big Game play field after it was restored. I used one of those Hewlett-Packard glass bottom scanners. It took 20 scan panels to get get the entire play field. Tell me what area of the play field you need pics of.

3 months later
#1446 2 years ago

I have invited a new Big Game owner to post pics of his Big Game on this thread. There is something unusual and a little different about his Big Game that he just got.

#1451 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I played a lot last night. A buddy came over and knocked off my score of just over 2 million with just over 3 million. With EBs off, and using the updated code, not sure how I’ll ever beat it, but I’m trying!!

What? I have those ROMS that allow the spinner spins to be counted. Is there something else? What is this code update?

#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

Nice!
Two million is a MONSTER game on this title.
Three million seems to be a near impossible dream.
Not having played under the new code I would still
assume three million will be really tough to beat.
You got your work cut out for 'ya cw.

I made 2.2 million a couple of years ago. It has turned into a (long term?) goal to achieve again. I am lucky to break a million nowadays. The best I have done recently was to light up 26 bingo card lights on Ball 1. And then balls 2 and 3 turned into shoot-drain balls got about 30,000 points between them.

#1457 2 years ago

This is like waiting for Christmas morning to open my presents. I always had to peek

I have to peek.

This is that weirded out back glass that I bought out of Florida 3-4 months ago.

784b5ef32889097ddcbc1c035628e14b51e8318d (resized).png784b5ef32889097ddcbc1c035628e14b51e8318d (resized).png

This is the pic of the same back glass that I saw on VP Forums.

645177e191e7863e6ffbac29dbd68ea4d6f315b4 (resized).png645177e191e7863e6ffbac29dbd68ea4d6f315b4 (resized).png

Yesterday, this showed up on the "what machine did you bring home today" thread.

This makes 3 of these white back glasses. This makes me want to thump my chest and howl at the moon

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-machine-did-you-bring-home-today-post-your-pictures/page/403#post-6258316

post #20121

aa76baa9af640bda99c5b2d30a2bab92f7530f41 (resized).jpgaa76baa9af640bda99c5b2d30a2bab92f7530f41 (resized).jpg

Buuuuuut, not so fast for me. About 4 months ago, this one showed up on the Big Game thread. I missed it at the time.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/big-game-club-the-safari-has-started/page/28

post # 1373

65cc99bdc9ab990eb00fc13996a0ebf89041b9bc (resized).jpg65cc99bdc9ab990eb00fc13996a0ebf89041b9bc (resized).jpg

The BIG GAME still shows shades of red but looks like it is going white. The nose is turning white. And the tongue is starting to bleach a little bit. The "Stern" script above the eyes looks like it is turning white, as well.
======================================

Maybe what I am looking it is a collection of sun bleached messes. Maybe I am being anal about it. But I like mysteries; My other hobby is reading Agatha Christie mystery novels

#1459 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Whether it’s actually white or not, it still looks like shit. Haha

I can see you are a man who knows how to pick your battles

I bet you don't tell your wife that her new hair cut/permanent looks like shit. And if she asks you " Does this dress make my ass look fat?" I bet you do not say "yes"

#1461 2 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Interesting they both surfaced in Florida.

I thought that as well.

Mine was shipped from the east coast and this newly arrived Big Game is in Tampa.

Screen Shot 2021-05-02 at 10.27.47 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-05-02 at 10.27.47 AM (resized).png

#1468 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

No disrespect meant, just throwing out my opinion on the manufacturers choice to make a white version. Poor choice imo. If you like it, do you.
Which makes me wonder. Let’s say it’s not some rare white version and it’s just faded? Did you obtain it for the look or the fact that it might be a really rare version?

I’m not offended in any way. Perhaps I should have used the sarcasm icon.

I went for it for it looking different.

But I like the way it looks.

#1469 2 years ago
Quoted from Agent_Hero:

Why would the foliage be white? It's sun faded. No idea why the green wouldn't fade, but no idea why they'd make white leaves.

To add to the sun bleach confusion there are 4 leaves at the bottom that are still yellow.

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