Big Game playfield with original spinners for one fiddy.
...and a few posts later, there's a Big Game machine for sale at Pinfest too.
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Big Game playfield with original spinners for one fiddy.
...and a few posts later, there's a Big Game machine for sale at Pinfest too.
What is the part number for the drop target springs and flipper buttons? Are these only found at PBResource? Best way to flatten the large plastic covering the upper right corner? My first thought was to get the oven to a very low heat, let it cool to about 150-ish and pop it in there for a short while as it continues cooling--warm it up, but obviously not trying to melt it, then flatten it out under some weight.
I'm starting to see signs of life in this jungle!
Quoted from Dicky:Ok I’ve joined the Club
The cabinet is shot needs a lot of work l so i am going to try to save this classic stern
Playfield is in a great original state , backglass is toast so I have to replace it ,hopefully someone’s got a high res scan
Here’s a couple of Pictures[quoted image][quoted image]
Ah, but you have both spinners and the playfield looks good!
Quoted from rollitover:Provocative statement.
Might you have yourself
a project?
It works now thanks to barakandl zacaj and chuckwurt for help in the tech section. I've had this for over 2 years, left at 8 AM to get it and didn't get home until 2 AM the next morning. I still have a list of stuff to do in order to get it as nice as it can be, but I'm excited to be on my way with it!
I already have the new light boards ordered. The drop targets are grimy and probably need new springs (will PBResource know which springs I need?). I also want to get in on the new code revisions, but I need to get my original MPU for that.
Quoted from cottonm4:PBR will know what springs you need. You will need the shorter of the 2 styles of Stern/Bally springs. He will know what flipper buttons you need. He will know what flipper switches you need. Try to find what you can on PBR website and write those part numbers down.
If you talk to him, tell him you have some part numbers of what you need but not some of the others. If you area noobie, tell him that. I suggest working your order with all of the part numbers (from PBR website) that you have. Once you you have done that tell him you don't have a part number for the following items.
Don't try to BS him and he will be nice to working with you. He'll smell BS from a mile away.
I've ordered from him a few times. I send my orders via email and include part numbers, but I don't have the classic Stern parts catalog. Either way, I know he's a busy man so I try to be concise and precise with my order.
Quoted from Dragon:that playfeild is in an amazing shape the #4 on "Z" is sunken, easy fix. I had a bunch of them like that , i eventually placed the lexan cover on it after doing touch up on the paint
You mean a playfield protector? I do need to touch up a few of the numbers, but considering it was home to dozens of mud dauber nests when I got it, they were at least tidy critters who kept mainly to the backbox and wiring under the playfield.
Back glass is average, but the red can probably be fixed good enough. If not, I've had a second glass for many years before I got this which is similar condition that I could send off to BGresto if I feel like having better and not be without a glass in the meantime. Pictures of some of the mud dauber nests when I got it. Before I loaded it into my car, the seller and I threw about 10 or more mud nests out onto the ground. The mud spot on the MPU is actually remnants from one of the biggest.
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Quoted from Dragon:your lock down bar is perfect and the rails for the glass look good in the photos , also nobody drilled a big hole in the front cabinet to place a credit button , that seems to be a common thing to do on 1980 pinball machines in the 1990's, if you buy a bgresto glass you do not need to send him your glass because there is no copy rights to old stern pinball machines cost was about 350 or less i forgot already and 12 weeks .
The lift channel is rusted to the glass. How do I loosen that to replace or clean the channel?
I just got it by spraying Rain-X auto glass cleaner on the non-painted front and wedging an old skewer in bit by bit. It is rusted to the point where I can see through parts of it, so I'll replace it.
Quoted from cottonm4:I agree.
Thrillhouse is making play filed protectors for Big Game. You should consider placing one on this nice play field. Play the hell out of it and keep in nice.
https://beehivepinball.bigcartel.com/product/playshield-playfield-protector
Oh yeah, unless you specify otherwise, BG Resto will send you a back glass that measures 3/16" thick instead of the 1/8" glass currently in your game.
I installed this protector over the weekend. There are debate threads about them on here and I got it based on the one consensus in those threads being that they're a good idea for early solid state games with imperfect inserts. The debate threads also mentioned that rollover inserts could be problematic with these protectors, but mine seems fine without any adjustment. The order included drop target shims to raise them a bit, but those also seem fine without adjustment. I only had to trim a small piece from the corner of one of the drop target areas for it to fit properly. The only negative so far is that it feels like it's a dust magnet in that if I'm working on the game for a few hours, raising and lowering the playfield, I feel like I see a spot here and a spot there where I have to take a soft cloth and wipe a few areas before putting the glass back on it.
Overall, it's worth the $90 to not feel like every game is slowly wearing away original artwork.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Nope. They’ve said they are not going to do it because not enough people will buy them.
Mirco has no interest either. I tried sending a donor playfield to both.
...but CPR did Catacomb. I'm sure they sold thousands of those.
You don't need to remove the rubbers to install the protector. It only covers where the ball travels. The ball traveling over the protector will sound much different. Any lint, dust, or stray un-wiped wax residue will stand out very noticeably with the protector. I just wipe the protector with a soft cloth periodically. It's worth the price.
Tournament players often say Superbands change the gameplay too much or play too different from how they expect a game to play. A lot of people go with Titan, but I think Perfect Play is more similar to those so go with that.
Quoted from statictrance:$1,200 for a non working BG with bonus worn playfield and flaked backglass? Have they appreciated that much in recent years?!?
Across the hobby every era of machines has gone up the past few years, yet early solid state's are supposed to remain static in pricing? Someone recently thought they knew of a Big Game that was still sitting for sale at $800, so I told them to go buy it and I'd pay to ship it to someone else who was looking for a Big Game. Of course, it was long gone. They still pop up cheap since Craigslist sellers use the Pinside price to list their game and it sells within the first hour. Unfortunately, that metric is working in reverse for the Cheetah listings.
If it were some sort of prototype, why would they choose super hot white as the color for it? It doesn't draw more attention to the game, it doesn't save them any money over using the standard red. It just looks like it was displayed in a store window facing the sun all day, every day for years. I wouldn't pay a cent for it, but you like it so that's what matters.
I think more of an old operator or previous owner who took some primer to a glass that had flaked away to being totally bare, but I'm a cynic.
Why would the foliage be white? It's sun faded. No idea why the green wouldn't fade, but no idea why they'd make white leaves.
Quoted from cottonm4:To add to the sun bleach confusion there are 4 leaves at the bottom that are still yellow.
Then why would they color a few of the most obscure in the entire print and do the rest in a special white?! It makes no sense if you're arguing that it's a prototype. They'd keep it all white and green at that point; they wouldn't toss in a dab of yellow for laughs.
Again, a prototype is usually done for simplicity's sake. Why would they bother adding any small patches of pigment if the goal was green/white?
Quoted from slochar:https://sites.google.com/site/allentownpinball/galaxy-asm/BIGGAME-V8.zip?attredirects=0&d=1
The latest code, if you don't have it. V08 on the match display on bootup.
Is there a list of features for this code? I never got around to updating my stock rom.
Quoted from rcbrown316:Wow. i just downloaded 4 different inclinometers and I am shocked how low the numbers are showing. Big game is showing 4.7 with the rear feet fully extended and a 1x4 under each back leg. catacomb however comes in at 6 with no blocks. meteor 4.6 with 1x4's, quicksilver 4.7 with no blocks. embryon 5.1 with 1x4's. centaur 4.8 with 2x4's (and it's still slow). All feet fully extended. something seems off because (i thought) I had my games set up super fast. I have never played faster versions of any of them. weird.
i'm guess another 2.0 slope and i will start to get your kick out issues.
I went through leveling my games this past weekend using the level pictured above and the PinGuy app. The readings are not consistent between the two, but I think using both of them as a general guide I got my games playing better than before. Calibrating both of those tools is kinda wonky since I can never find a surface that I know is perfectly level. Also if my phone has a protective case does that make the PinGuy app less accurate? My Star Wars premium is by far the most finicky with even the slightest adjustment causing the game to play much different.
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