Thanks for posting these measurements.

My game also arrived to me without these brackets. It's on location and people were really enjoying the gaps between the flippers, forcing them to play on the fly. But it was also a PIA because the ball would sometimes get stuck between the upper flipper and the post and the players would tilt the game trying to free it. Then the game would need to be opened to retrieve the ball. Not ideal for a location game.

Anyway, I used your measurements to cut out some new guides using some thin tin sheeting and regular tin snips that I already had. Worked out great!

I cut out rectangular sections of tin large enough so I could fold them over to make a double-thick piece for each guide.
IMG_3295 (resized).JPG

Then used my vice and a hammer to carefully fold the tin over, and bend it so the bottom edge would act as a mounting plate.
IMG_3299 (resized).JPG
IMG_3298 (resized).JPGIMG_3296 (resized).JPG

IMG_3300 (resized).JPG

I did mess up a bit in that I misread your measurement on the mounting bracket and ended making my entire bottom piece 0.35" wide, which was really the distance to the center of the hole. However, it worked out okay I simply used some washers to extend my bolt head over the bracket. It is held securely.

IMG_3306 (resized).JPG

IMG_3309 (resized).JPG

IMG_3308 (resized).JPG

I made my own but would be interested if priced reasonably.

I actually removed the right-side one again as I prefer the dangerous gap between the flippers on that side. I left the screw in the hole closest to the bottom flipper and that keeps the ball form hanging up there which it otherwise does pretty regularly.

This might seem like a ridiculous suggestion but in addition to the spinner count as implemented could you also...

Use the other 3 player's score displays (for the players not currently playing) as a sort of velocity gauge?

So the faster the spinner was spinning the longer the gauge would be (filling more of the 7 digits the faster it is going). The digits used could go from 0-9 and the number of digits used would be a percentage of 100, which you would have to arbitrarily figure out what a good threshold for this would be. And if the spinner was above 100 (all 9's filling all 7 digits of each display) they could start to flash to show that you're spinner rate was in "overload"!

This would be a very fun effect esp if all three of the "other" score displays were used at a the same time.

examples:
Spinner ripping at initial hit: 9999999 (flashing)
Starting to slow down a bit: 7777777
Slower: 55555
Almost stopped: 22

I'm really excited to try the new software! I just need to replace my Alltek with a Weebly board so I can load up custom ROMs. My game is also going back on location soon and I know the league guys will love these additions!

I just finished installing the replacement boards for the grid sockets and I've noticed that on all three cards (X, Y, Z) my 8 and 9 lights are reversed. So dropping the 8 target lights 9, and dropping the 9 lights 8. In addition, on only the X card the 5 and 6 lights are similarily reversed.

I figured I must have messed up when I soldered the wires onto the new boards but in this configuration the attract mode light show works perfectly, the straight lines cascade in both directions as expected. If I re-wire the cards so the targets match the digits correctly, the attract show lightshow will be messed up.

Has anyone encountered this before? Suggestions?

Honestly I don't recall checking but I have a vague recollection that they might not have been.

It doesn't make any sense though.

Are you guys *sure* your 8 and 9 lights correspond to the 8 and 9 drop targets? And if so, does your attract mode work correctly?

To illustrate what I'm on about here's a little diagram. Currently my attract mode looks 100%. So on the animation where the entire vertical column of lights are lit at once and they move across the card...

(1) 2 3
(4) 5 6
(7) 8 9

1 (2) 3
4 (5) 6
7 (8) 9

1 2 (3)
4 5 (6)
7 8 (9)

On this card the 5 and 6 are swapped (6 lights for 5 drop target, 5 lights for 6 drop target), as are the 8 and 9. If I switch the light wires around to correct that, then the attract mode animation will be borked like this...

(1) 2 3
(4) 5 6
(7) 8 9

1 (2) 3
4 5 (6)
7 8 (9)

1 2 (3)
4 (5) 6
7 (8) 9

I feel like I'm losing my mind...

Okay will review again tonight. Some of my wire colours running to the lamps are different from those listed in the instructions for some reason.

Okay will review again tonight. Some of my wire colours running to the lamps are different from those listed in the instructions for some reason.

Okay, I have confirmed that my socket wiring is correct, it's the bloody drop target switches that are wrong!
Here's a snap of my X card wiring for reference.
IMG_7006 (resized).JPG

When I originally tested things a few days ago I screwed up and somehow missed the fact that the swapped lights were consistent across all 3 cards, instead I thought that it 5-6 was swapped on X and Y but not Z, and 8-9 were swapped on all 3 cards. This threw me for a loop as I couldn't figure out how the attract mode light show could be perfect, but only 2 out of the 3 cards could have swapped 5-6 lights (hence the post here).

However, last night when I retested things all 3 cards showed the same issues (5-6 and 8-9 swapped). This makes a lot more sense since it's pretty obvious now that it's actually the drop-target switches that are miswired, not the lights!

Thanks for the quick responses!

I wonder if a padded envelope would be better/cheaper?

I'm in for 2 sets please!

Will PM.

It's pretty arguable that a drained ball shouldn't stop the spinners from counting anyway. Each spin is a switch close that occurs *after* the ball is in the trough. Too-bad, so sad in my book.

I use Perfect Play white on top and green on bottoms on mine. Plays great. I don't use Superbands for flippers they are too different from normal rubber for my liking.

Given that the tongue pattern looks similar between the badly fading one and your white one...

I'm inclined to think yours is badly faded. Sorry.

It does match the cabinet. Red pops way more though.

Do the other examples of the white backglass also have the yellow areas at the bottom?

I've had mine setup without the guides on location and used during our leagues, tournaments. Is super fun that way. Didn't worry about staging the upper vs lower flipper at all. Only problem was the flipper could sometimes jam the ball under it and next to a post, requiring the glass to be removed to free it.

It allows you to bounce-pass the ball off the top of the upper flipper from the lower flipper, if you're highly skilled/lucky.

Amazing job!

Where'd you get that snazzy diagram?

I would NOT sell that Big Game. It is the finest playing classic widebody, period. You should bolt it to the floor. Nothing JJP makes (esp. POTC) can touch it. Trust me.