(Topic ID: 173484)

Big Betty's Truck Stop lower flipper strength

By MT45

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Enver
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 5 years ago

Question for Truck Stop owners. Can you easily make the left and right orbits from the lower flippers - specifically the "C" and "Y" ramps. I can barely make it and most times reaches peak only to roll back and out the ramp entrances instead of all the way around. Is it supposed to be a tough shot? I've gapped eos, cleaned flipper cabinet switches and did not notice any change ...

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#2 5 years ago

it might not help but have you got the 1inch balls in it or normal size ones?

#3 5 years ago

I do. Great thought though. I ordered a dozen when I bought the machine

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

it might not help but have you got the 1inch balls in it or normal size ones?

This. It was a service bulletin after the game came out.

#5 5 years ago

Any other tips from anyone? The balls are the correct (smaller) size. It is simply the flippers and specifically the lowers. Both are equally "weak".

Is there a transistor that drives these that may be weakening?

I'm more inclined to think it's with the EOS switches and ability transmit full voltage. ....how would I use my DMM to test voltage and EOS?

#6 5 years ago

Are the switches in good condition (not all pitted up) does your flipper switches have a strong leaf spring (not weak when you press buttons) do you have your flipper bats set in the right position (I see them set wrong on all types of games. Check your flipper bushings, and coil sleeves.

#7 5 years ago


It turned out to be the EOS switches and probably to a smaller extent the flipper angles (thanks for the reminder crlush as I looked at my flippers and thought they were not set low enough so I moved them down about a full 1/4" each). Notice that the flippers now do not line up with the ball guides but are at a slight obtuse angle to them.

I removed the switches in the first image below (they came with the Bally flipper rebuild kit but there was a service bulletin that came out from Bally in 1989 to replace them) and replaced them with the newer ones along with a capacitor on each.

Not sure I needed to but I also heat shrink wrapped the part of the flipper mech that contacts the new switches as it was bare before as the old switch had a plastic insulator built into the switch itself. Some might confirm for me that this was necessary - seemed a good idea

I can now complete both the left and right orbits! Still a tough shot but a clean one goes all the way around. I've got new cab switches coming and will replace those as well as mine are rough.

Wrong switches

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Correct switches

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4 years later
#8 4 months ago

What I don't get in this 4+yrs old post is this: the service bulletin tells us to use some Williams parts (cap, EOS switch) on the Bally linear flipper mechanism and these are the upper mechs in Truck Stop. Aiming at I and T in C-I-T-Y and not C and Y.
How this is going to solve a weak lower flipper problem (Williams mechanisms with strong FL-11629 coils) is incomprehensible to me.

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