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(Topic ID: 262729)

Best way to solve a ball Groove?


By DashingDaryl

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 35 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by D-Gottlieb
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    Capture1 (resized).JPG
    Capture (resized).JPG
    Capture (resized).JPG

    #1 9 months ago

    Hi Gang

    I was hoping you could help me with a Ball groove Problem.

    I did a search, but nothing obvious came up.

    I have an EM Hot Tip. I love the game! My problem is that there is a ball groove up at the very top. It follows the top arch and probably was cut from too many ball launches. (But I don't know, it as like that when I got the machine)

    I have no idea how it got a ball groove, but I do know the ball get stuck up there often. Sometimes I can "bump" it out without "tilt-ing" the machine but not always.

    What's the best solution? Wax the Playfield and try to fill in the groove? Raise the rear leg level'rs to make gravity my friend?

    I am open to any and all ideas

    #2 9 months ago

    Does the groove cut into any playfield artwork or is it just in the raw wood?

    #3 9 months ago

    Game would have to be pretty flat to get stuck in a arch groove I would think...unless this is one monster grove?!

    Anyway, more pitch is your freind of course, but other than waxing threre isn;t much you can easily do uinless you want to get wacky and start using bondo, paint, mylar/clear etc.
    Or I guess maybe using a dropper full of clear, but that's beyond me.

    #4 9 months ago

    Can you post a picture of this groove? I can't ever remember seeing a ball groove so deep that the ball gets repeatedly stuck in it.

    I would think that if the game had so many plays as to wear that deep of a groove, it would probably have an awful amount of playfield wear, as well.

    #5 9 months ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Game would have to be pretty flat to get stuck in a arch groove I would think...unless this is one monster grove?!
    Anyway, more pitch is your freind of course, but other than waxing threre isn;t much you can easily do uinless you want to get wacky and start using bondo, paint, mylar/clear etc.
    Or I guess maybe using a dropper full of clear, but that's beyond me.

    I've had it on games I've restored. The only solution I have for you is to sand it out, stain it to match, and clear it.

    It's amazing the groove can get as deep as it does, but it happens.

    #6 9 months ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    I've had it on games I've restored. The only solution I have for you is to sand it out, stain it to match, and clear it.
    It's amazing the groove can get as deep as it does, but it happens.

    Yeah, that's how you do it!

    #7 9 months ago

    Thanks everybody. I will take a picture tonight.

    It is a pretty flat game. The Levelers on the bottom have rusted to the point they are seized.

    I would love to say I have the skill to sand out the groove and stain to match, but the patio table I refinished this past summer, probably is an indication I should introduce the levelers to penetrating fluid first.

    What degree of slope do you guys recommend?

    #8 9 months ago

    Probably all the way up in back, or close to it.

    #9 9 months ago

    Get some new levelers and increase the pitch!

    #10 9 months ago

    Evapo-rust may work better on those rusty leg levelers.

    What's that in the back room? Looks like a car body? You restore pedal cars?

    Dumb ass here. Don't know how I ended up in this post. Sorry.

    #11 9 months ago

    Did i miss the pics?

    #12 9 months ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    I've had it on games I've restored. The only solution I have for you is to sand it out, stain it to match, and clear it.
    It's amazing the groove can get as deep as it does, but it happens.

    /\this

    #13 9 months ago

    Ah

    #14 9 months ago

    Maybe mylarin the area it sticks in?
    When I see this it’s usually just catching on the outer points of the groove

    #15 9 months ago

    Variation on suggestions - how about sanding and staining just the groove itself, then applying a little clear in layers into it (like leveling cupped inserts), then sand that flat and final coat of clear?

    #16 9 months ago

    You can use Hard as Nails in the groove. A few layers will build it up.

    #17 9 months ago

    Everbrite self leveling, after the stain is matched.

    #18 9 months ago
    Quoted from frenchmarky:

    Variation on suggestions - how about sanding and staining just the groove itself, then applying a little clear in layers into it (like leveling cupped inserts), then sand that flat and final coat of clear?

    This is the easiest solution...I've had games like that where the ball gets stuck up there - usually only near the bouncer flap and the rubber, and never when plunging the ball...it happens when the ball makes it all the way back up to that arch and hits it and sticks.

    Since it's in the all wood area, you can fix it by sanding it, filling it, sanding that back down, then CCing with Acrylic Lacquer. If you sand it flat enough, it will be mostly invisible...except the track the ball made, which can be tough to completely remove when trying to sand just the groove.

    However I agree with the more PF angle fix before all that...hopefully that gets you going...the rest I wrote in case someone else reads this or you end up wanting to try it...

    #19 9 months ago

    Anybody ever try elongating the screw holes in the arch plate only *slightly* like 1/16 or less so the arch can be adjusted lower where the ball now rolls barely below the groove? I guess that would work but then you're modifying the pf... however you can still move the arch back to original if desired.

    #20 9 months ago

    Wow, there is a lot of "out of the box solutions." It is nice to know I have options depending on how successful the last "fix" was.

    I have another problem where the "capture ball" get stuck in the gap between the wood and the metal roll over switch.

    I think changing the pitch of the game should fix that also; so that will be my first solution.

    #21 9 months ago

    I demand pics first!

    #22 9 months ago

    Did i miss the pics?

    #23 9 months ago
    Quoted from DashingDaryl:

    I have another problem where the "capture ball" get stuck in the gap between the wood and the metal roll over switch.
    I think changing the pitch of the game should fix that also; so that will be my first solution.

    Give us a pick of this one, should be a easy fix. I don’t see a capture ball on hot tip.

    #24 9 months ago

    Here is a pic, probably not the one you want, but a picture of the Captured Ball Chute.

    I am still working on getting a pic of the Groove

    Capture (resized).JPG
    #25 9 months ago

    Is there crud in that captive ball chute?
    Have you checked the pitch?
    4.5* is the minimum to make the pops work etc.

    #26 9 months ago

    So I raised the back of the machine half an inch and it looks like the groove is not causing anymore problem. One of the levelers was bad (it still is) which is why the machine was so flat. I raised the other leveler and put a 1/2 inch square of plywood under the bad leg.

    The game plays much faster, so I am going to have to rework my high scores.

    For those of you that REALLY wanted to see the groove, here it is:

    Capture (resized).JPGCapture1 (resized).JPG
    #27 9 months ago

    That's no big deal. I wouldn't even call it a groove. Mostly just worn through clearcoat. You must have had that game almost flat for a ball to get caught in it.

    #28 9 months ago

    Excellent

    #29 9 months ago

    Do you think I can put some clearcoat on a q-tip or artist brush and try and fill it in?

    #30 9 months ago

    Before going through the involved work of trying to sand, stain match, and clear... start with the easiest thing you should be doing anyways... FIX THOSE LEVELERS. Soak them to loosen it and get those out and put in fresh levers.

    #31 9 months ago

    It depends on how fussy you are. You could fill it slowly with varethane. Be careful to stay within the damaged area. Thin, thin coats dry quickly. And you do not have to evacuate the neighborhood.
    Then give a quick sanding if it is uneven or just leave it.
    It will shrink some over time but will hold up well.

    #32 9 months ago

    Doesn't look like much. I'd be hitting it with some magic eraser & alcohol, and cleaning up with novus 2 anyway to get some of the buildup off the edges

    #33 9 months ago

    Outside of raising back levelers. I have tried two methods, neither perfect - so suggestions welcome. First was clean the groove, then artist brush clear into the groove. Worked reasonably well. Tried gently sanding it flat on one game which worked well to level it out, but then could never get the wood color of the sanded area to match the rest of the upper apron.

    #34 9 months ago

    I think if you want it to match , you have to strip the finish, sand and seal in the wood area.

    #35 9 months ago

    I have used Hard As Nails clear nail polish to fix something exactly like this and it has held up for years. Looks fine. Just brush it on.

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