(Topic ID: 228554)

Best way to proceed with cabinet paint after water damage


By GabeKnuth

6 months ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by joetechbob
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    #1 6 months ago

    I'm restoring a 1964 United Pacer shuffle alley that has spent the better part of the last 30 years in a machine shed on a farm. It looks like it took some water damage a long time ago that has since dried out. For the most part, everything is in good shape, but the areas that dry rotted need some special attention.

    In areas where the plywood delaminated, I injected wood glue and clamped. Larger areas got a treatment with GitRot (stuff you use on dry-rotted boat transoms to restore strength) to restore some of the integrity of the wood. All that turned out really nicely.

    What I'm left with, though, is the finish. Ordinarily, I'm the kind of guy that likes to preserve a game in the state I get it. Those nicks, gouges, knee marks, and cigarette burns (and baseball team stickers in this case) tell a story, and I think that's cool. In this case, though, the water damage has really messed with the paint, causing it to flake away on its own, let alone if you touch it.

    I'm curious what the general consensus is on what I should do. I can't prep it at all for any top coat...not without most of the paint coming off. Maybe there's some sort of pre-prep I can do to keep what's there?

    There is one part (the top of the pin deck) that is covered in dirty paint flakes...there is no saving it, and I will probably just try to match it and paint it.

    If I do end up having to re-paint it, I'd want to do it as close to original as possible, including the speckling, stencils, and overspray. I doubt that I can just do one side and match the rest of the cabinet, so that probably means I'll have to do the entire machine.

    Any thoughts are appreciated. I attached some pictures to show you what I've got. One of the sides I consider completely fine, and the rest are wide/close shots of the different panels that need work.

    Thanks!
    Gabe

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    #2 6 months ago

    If it were my choice, the option to repaint wou!d mean rebuilding the cabinet from the ground up, New paint, etc..... That is only if it is a forever keeper, as the value is pure labor of love. The other would be just to enjoy it as it is, or sell it off to someone who appreciates it as it is. There is really no middle ground on a machine of this vintage

    #3 6 months ago

    You can turn to Marine - grade products but it will be expensive and laborious. First 2 coats of unthickened West Systems epoxy. Then Interlux Interprime epoxy primer. There is also a nice fairing compound. I have brought played-out plywood in similar shape back to usable condition using these products.

    #4 6 months ago

    Strip and repaint unfortunately

    #5 6 months ago
    Quoted from cad-kid:

    Strip and repaint unfortunately

    That's still not enough. The damage to the wood is much further than just the surface. Strip and repaint and it may not last very long before that paint peels or the cab separates. That's why I suggested a complete cab rebuild..

    5 months later
    #6 28 days ago

    Had to strip the paint, bondo and then repaint mine. I chose to paint it differently. Wish i took more pictures during my restoration but here is a few.

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    #7 28 days ago
    Quoted from CorporalColeco:

    Had to strip the paint, bondo and then repaint mine. I chose to paint it differently. Wish i took more pictures during my restoration but here is a few.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    That came out beautifully!! Congrats on that job! This is the same cab?! It looks fantastic!

    #8 28 days ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    If it were my choice, the option to repaint wou!d mean rebuilding the cabinet from the ground up, New paint, etc..... That is only if it is a forever keeper, as the value is pure labor of love. The other would be just to enjoy it as it is, or sell it off to someone who appreciates it as it is. There is really no middle ground on a machine of this vintage

    I have to agree here. More time would be devoted than you would ever see returned.

    #9 27 days ago

    I’ve used a krylon brand matte clear coat to seal in flaky paint on one my ems. Worked really well stabilizing the paint and you don’t even notice it. Applied around 3-5 lite coats.

    YMMV as in my case the wood was in better condition.

    amazon.com link »

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