From my experience any socket bad enough to need that treatment also needs the barrel soldered to the mounting tab and/or the wire moved from the solder tab to the base/nipple. In which case I’d say your time & money are better spent just replacing sockets. I’ve tried those band aids on old Bally games, and the whack-a-moke of flaky sockets never ends.

Use a Dremel tool and a 443-2 bit. Dip it in a bit of rubbing alcohol and run it in the socket for a couple of seconds. Works almost every time.

Ronnie - I saw this in another thread, but haven't tried it yet. Any advice on speed? I'm assuming just get it in there and hit the edges/bottom as best you can and give it a try? I'll be the first to admit flakey light sockets have been one of the last things I've worried about in my collection and I'm just getting to the point to start reviewing these. (I'd rather get them up and flipping first, then worry about lights... and usually I have a new project in before I get to the lights... 17 machines later... haha)

I keep a cleaning stick in my toolbag since I don't normally bring a dremel tool with me when I'm on the go. It's handy to clean out a socket in a pinch, or if the socket is in a place that's hard to reach. It's not something I really use very often, though.

Like yancy said, if the socket is bad enough, it sometimes just needs to be replaced.

I would say with your tongue. Be sure that the pin is turned on so you have plenty of light to see what you are doing.

On a serious note, I've just used some twisted steel wool (similar to how you would form a tissue to stuff into your nostril to stop a nosebleed). Make sure the pin is turned off, insert the steel wool fully, then give it several twists to rub off any rust or other gunk from the contacts.

About as well as a pencil eraser.

Best fix for old sockets is replace with new, especially if the cardboard (or whatever it is) in the bottom has shrunk over time.

Some people try to be cheapies and "fix" old sockets - not worth it in the long haul. Lots of work and you will still have some flaky sockets.

If you are just wanting to clean the inside to make good connections the cleaning sticks work pretty well, they are like round sandpaper with just the right amount of grit. Doing more than one or two by hand will get to you though. I chuck mine into my cordless variable speed drill and hit every socket. Let it spin for 2 seconds or so making sure it hits the bottom and around the sides. If a socket still gives me trouble I will move the wire on the tab to the nipple and also make sure the connection to the base is solid. Of all the pinball machines I have gone through I’ve only had to replace a handful of sockets. Mind you, I am not trying to make them brand new, just reliable player machines. Have never had to go back in and fix any sockets so this method works well for me.

Use your high speed setting. Try and get the interior sides of the socket and the bottom spring nub inside the socket

Replace with a new socket and bulb and move on, trust me it's the only way to go.

John

I agree, spent a ton of time cleaning a bunch during a MH restoration, ended up just buying new because they were still flaky... Biggest problem though was people having them in stock, had to go through 3 different companies to get all I needed.

Every Dremel brand tip has a number desigination associated with it. If you just throw Dremel 443-2 into Google, it comes up with the right one. Has a little nub of metal bristles on the end. You can sometimes find them at local hardware stores, but not usually the big ones.

This obviously won't repair sockets that are physically damaged in any way. If the nub that the wire is soldered on to is loose at all, that socket just needs to be replaced.

For sure. Never understood why people wanted to waste so much time and effort to save what? .75 cents by not buying a socket since I'm assuming there at least replacing the bulb. Replace the socket and the bulb once and be done with it the rest of your life.

John

Some folks have more time on their hands to clean sockets. Replace them on bally games and then stand back and admire your work. You cant polish a turd.

The way I do it as mentioned above takes wayyyy less time the replacing a socket

my guess would be wire color code

Q33 which should be in your manual, just on a different page (it's on the driver board schematic page instead of the wiring page which I think is what the pic you posted above is)