(Topic ID: 44182)

Best Wax Ever - Collonite iw-845


By clargar

6 years ago



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  • 41 posts
  • 21 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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    #1 6 years ago

    Hey team- I was offered some great advice from this site and thought I'd give a little back. While pinball repair is not my specialty, I've been making furniture for about 40 years now. I just did an overhaul on my Gottlieb Pioneer. It's original and in great shape. For waxing the playfield I used three coats. Coat 1: Johnson's paste wax or butchers wax. This a "soft" wax that goes on easy but does require a little elbow grease to buff it out. For the final two coats I use Collonit IW-845. This is almost 100% carnauba wax. It is super hard and much more durable than the butchers type, and it will last much longer. The beauty is that it goes on like butter and requires about 1/10 of the elbow grease to buff it off. It also fills all those microscopic hairline cracks in the playfiled. Guaranteed that your ball will hit the glass. I dropped a pyramid lane guide on the table and it slid all the way down! Also, for you car buffs, this is the wax to use. Once every 6 months and it will withstand all the car washes you can give it. Water beads and sheets like you've never known before. You can get this stuff on the web at autogeek or a place like that. If you try it, I guarantee you'll never use anything else again.

    #2 6 years ago

    Dunno how good it will be on a pin, but it is not almost 100% carnauba wax. *45 is a liquid, which means it has a lot of petrol distillates, etc. to liquify it. Carnauba wax is *really* hard and requires a ton of elbow grease to apply and buff. (It's almost never sold in pure form.) Might be bet to check how the additives in 845 react with painted or coated playfields before giving it the green light, imo. Although it is not a "cleaner wax" which is a good thing.

    #3 6 years ago

    I wouldn't use any of that stuff. 100% carnuba wax only.

    #4 6 years ago

    The directions say to keep it away from non painted plastic = sounds pretty non pinball friendly right there.

    I'll stick with the time proven Blitz One Grand, thank you.

    #5 6 years ago

    Collinite 885 was mentioned positively in this thread: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-cleaning-regiment

    Do you guys think 885 would be any better than 845?

    #6 6 years ago
    Quoted from jalpert:

    I wouldn't use any of that stuff. 100% carnuba wax only.

    I have yet to find anything that is undisputed 100% carnauba wax. I do have my brand, though, and it seems to be as close as you can get. It smells like a crayon box, too!

    #7 6 years ago
    Quoted from jahbarron:

    I have yet to find anything that is undisputed 100% carnauba wax. I do have my brand, though, and it seems to be as close as you can get. It smells like a crayon box, too!

    How about pure then?

    amazon.com link »

    #8 6 years ago

    Yellow wax is my wax of choice!

    amazon.com link »

    I have the same Mother's also like DC...

    #9 6 years ago

    I personally wouldn't recommend this stuff over Blitz.

    #10 6 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    Yellow wax is my wax of choice!
    amazon.com link »
    I have the same Mother's also like DC...

    That stuff says it "Removes paint overspray" - my alarm bells are ringing.

    #11 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That stuff says it "Removes paint overspray" - my alarm bells are ringing.

    Well, guess I'll follow the expert and get some One grand blitz....

    #12 6 years ago

    There is no such thing as a consumer-grade wax made of 100 percent pure carnauba. All it means when they say that is the wax component of the formulation is carnauba and not a mixture of carnauba and other kinds of waxes.

    True pure carnauba is solid and very hard.

    http://www.jagdishsales.com/carnauba-wax-t-3-1202935.html

    #13 6 years ago

    Hey clargar! Are you a neighbor??

    #14 6 years ago
    Quoted from jonnyo:

    There is no such thing as a consumer-grade wax made of 100 percent pure carnauba. All it means when they say that is the wax component of the formulation is carnauba and not a mixture of carnauba and other kinds of waxes.
    True pure carnauba is solid and very hard.
    http://www.jagdishsales.com/carnauba-wax-t-3-1202935.html

    That's what I'm saying. I have a hard time trusting anything sold at Auto Zone on my playfields. In a pinch, I did wax an old EM with Johnson's last night and I had forgotten how terrible that stuff smells. Gasoline fumes.

    I usually use Harly Wax. Smells great and after three years of using it on all sorts of games, all I can do is rave about it.

    #15 6 years ago

    +1 That is what I use.

    #16 6 years ago
    Quoted from jonnyo:

    There is no such thing as a consumer-grade wax made of 100 percent pure carnauba. All it means when they say that is the wax component of the formulation is carnauba and not a mixture of carnauba and other kinds of waxes.
    True pure carnauba is solid and very hard.
    http://www.jagdishsales.com/carnauba-wax-t-3-1202935.html

    EXACTLY! And no way is anyone gonna be able to buff a playfield with 100% pure carnauba.

    #17 6 years ago
    Quoted from jonnyo:

    There is no such thing as a consumer-grade wax made of 100 percent pure carnauba. All it means when they say that is the wax component of the formulation is carnauba and not a mixture of carnauba and other kinds of waxes.

    True pure carnauba is solid and very hard.

    What do you use?...that yellow wax I've got is pretty solid and looks like the "pure"...

    #18 6 years ago
    Quoted from StevenP:

    Dunno how good it will be on a pin, but it is not almost 100% carnauba wax. *45 is a liquid, which means it has a lot of petrol distillates, etc. to liquify it. Carnauba wax is *really* hard and requires a ton of elbow grease to apply and buff. (It's almost never sold in pure form.) Might be bet to check how the additives in 845 react with painted or coated playfields before giving it the green light, imo. Although it is not a "cleaner wax" which is a good thing.

    This is 100% correct. Colli 845 is great stuff, but it has distillates and certainly isn't a pure carnauba. Not really an issue for clearcoated playfields, but not sure about the older non cleared pins.

    #19 6 years ago
    Quoted from spfxted:

    Hey clargar! Are you a neighbor??

    must be. on Colony.

    #20 6 years ago

    All waxes contain distillates in order to grind the particle size to the micron level and make it spreadable as a paste. And you can't buff it until those distillates dry off (solvent worries gone now..). Unless of course it's a naturally soft wax like bees wax; but then again I don't like slow moving balls! Get some for your car, and then try a PF. Happy conversion!

    #21 6 years ago

    "Kelly Clarkson!"

    image.jpg

    #22 6 years ago

    Pure is a marketing term and doesnt tell you anything about the percentage of Carnauba. Jonnyo described it well.

    Quoted from jonnyo:

    All it means when they say that is the wax component of the formulation is carnauba and not a mixture of carnauba and other kinds of waxes.

    It could be pure and have 5% Carnauba or be pure and have 15% Carnauba.

    I don't remember exactly, but I think 33% Carnauba wax is about the highest concentration you'll ever find. The rest of any Carnauba wax is oils and solvents. The only difference is which additives they use.

    See the following article:

    http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?25310-The-MYTHS-of-Carnauba-wax

    #23 6 years ago

    Ah, a post about Carnauba. It is from Brazil. It is a brownish to yellowish colour in its pure processed state. Carnauba comes from a tree the tree makes this wax to protect its self.
    As other posts point out you may have a label that reads 100% pure. The Carnauba may be pure, but what is inside the bottle or tub is not all Carnauba. In pastes, bees wax may be added for spreadability, in liquids xylene may be added too.
    Wax with the highest content of Carnauba is preferred. Carnauba Wax can be applied to clear coated and painted surfaces. Clear coat is basically paint without pigment. On your playfield, the layer of wax is a sacrificial layer, protecting the surface. Use different applicators for polish/cleaners and waxes. Buy micro fiber towels to buff off polish and waxes, do not inter mix the towels either. When polishing/cleaning and waxing avoid the plastic posts, rubber parts too. Avoid applying polish and waxes in direct sun light and avoid hot surfaces. When waxing with Carnauba it is better to apply one thin coat, allow to dry, buff off, then repeat. One thick coat will be hard to remove. Carnauba will last longer on your pin than your cars paint. Wax the play field, it will be more shiny, faster play, and wax it more if you play your pin alot. This is a personal choice.

    #24 6 years ago

    I use Chemical Guys WAC_301 XXX Hard Core Pure White Carnauba Paste Wax and Advanced Polymers - amazon.com link »

    #25 6 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    What do you use?...that yellow wax I've got is pretty solid and looks like the "pure"...

    As a player, I use some Meguirs or Mothers and don't worry about it. My skills cause the ball to drain a lot faster than the wax.

    #26 6 years ago
    Quoted from clargar:

    must be. on Colony.

    Whoa! I'm right off Colony! Summit. First block past Blinking Light!

    #27 6 years ago
    Quoted from spfxted:

    Whoa! I'm right off Colony! Summit. First block past Blinking Light!

    i got two friends on summit. greg and johnny fishguy.

    #28 6 years ago
    Quoted from spfxted:

    Whoa! I'm right off Colony! Summit. First block past Blinking Light!

    Jersey boys....do you know Tommy Knuckles?

    #29 6 years ago

    Even if we knew tommy knuckles, he would kill us if we told you!

    #30 6 years ago

    That is my all time favorite for EMs. For newer diamond plate games it is too fast and gets in all the star posts. For those I just use Mcguires wax and cleaner in one.

    #31 6 years ago
    Quoted from clargar:

    i got two friends on summit. greg and johnny fishguy.

    I know all my neighbors, but I don't know them! Maybe they're on the other side of Summit...

    #32 6 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    That stuff says it "Removes paint overspray" - my alarm bells are ringing.

    Ring away. I usedi it on my TUH-RASHED Space Shuttle playfield and it did about nothing at all, lol. Neither helped reduce the wear or accelerated it. HOWEVER, on my clearcoated games, the stuff is *fantastic*. I've used it on STTNG, Rollergames, Doc Who, and Tron. Slick as frack, looks great, doesn't smell like an oil rig.

    I'll be happy to give it a test run on the spare Future Spa playfield I have as well, after I clean it up a bit, just to see, but I don't expect any big issue with using it....I just don't think it's that beneficial for non-cleared playfields.

    #33 6 years ago

    Seriously? You wax your playfield with Colon-ite?

    #34 6 years ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    HOWEVER, on my clearcoated games, the stuff is *fantastic*. I've used it on STTNG, Rollergames, Doc Who, and Tron. Slick as frack, looks great, doesn't smell like an oil rig.

    You are talking about Yellow wax right Frax? What's your method of application...micro fiber, drill, fingers?

    #35 6 years ago
    Quoted from BobC:

    Seriously? You wax your playfield with Colon-ite?

    Forget that stuff!...it's shit!

    #36 6 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    You are talking about Yellow wax right Frax? What's your method of application...micro fiber, drill, fingers?

    Microfiber rag if I have one handy, but anything soft and generally lint-free works for me. I'm not a car guy, I never touched wax until I got pins, so who knows, I may be doing it "wrong", but I've yet to have someone say that a game that I've waxed plays like crap or looks bad, so I figure I must be doing an adequate job lol.

    I used it last night on the Bobby Orr Power Play project I'm working on after hitting the crap out of it with magic eraser and alcohol to get out a lot of the ball swirls. Looks alright, and unlike on Shuttle, actually helped the gameplay a lot. The pops are crazy now...actually got an airball off them into the glass. Gonna have to look and see about that, but still need to do actual touchups to this PF. Can't wait to get all the displays working right, and re-rubber this thing. Plays freakin' SWEET for a game that's sat broken in some guy's garage/storage for years! He said his friend had rebuilt a lot of the mechs...I'd believe it.

    #37 6 years ago

    Bobby Orr... That sounds cool! Congrats

    #38 6 years ago
    Quoted from John_I:

    That is my all time favorite for EMs. For newer diamond plate games it is too fast and gets in all the star posts. For those I just use Mcguires wax and cleaner in one.

    I don't recommend using Maguiar's cleaner wax on a PF (or car for that matter). Those all in one products wind up doing neither one well. I.e., it doesn't do a good job of cleaning *or* protecting.

    And if you don't like getting wax in the star posts (and who does?), try using the wax that is the subject of this thread! Collinite 845 goes on and off very cleanly. The trick to using it is to apply a very thin layer.

    Remember. Very thin!

    Collinite 845 is a *proven* sealer/wax in the car detailing forums. It is well recognized at providing very good protection along with excellent looks and ease of application/removal.

    #39 6 years ago

    Does it really go on "like butter"...because most "pure carnuba" I've used doesn't work like that...much harder and chunky...

    #40 6 years ago
    Quoted from iceman44:

    Does it really go on "like butter"...because most "pure carnuba" I've used doesn't work like that...much harder and chunky...

    Collinite 845 isn't a "pure carnauba". It is a combination of carnauba and sealant. Best of both worlds. And it goes on easier than butter.

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