It does play big part in industrial setting where workers solder all day. Leaving the iron on is the worst thing you can do to the iron tip. If you just leave the iron at the operating temp and let it sit, that drastically reduces the lifespan of the tip hence the company has to replace tips more often. JBC stations heat up in about 4 seconds and cools down to hybernate mode in few seconds. This will save a company alot of money. This is why all the top companies like JBC,Metcal,Pace,Hakko,etc will advertise about short heatup/cooldown time.

This is a good choice

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Just remember the new Wellers are made in china and are not as good as the old ones. Lots of people have reported this.

if you have a 500 to 600 US budget (might be over kill for what you need) but you can have a look at http://www.jbctools.com/cd-2be-soldering-station-for-general-purposes-product-1124-category-1-menu-1.html

they are amazing.

JBC for me. The instant heat up and sleep mode when not in use is amazing. The heat transfer is the best of any solder iron or solder station I've ever used (Weller and Pace)

Any opinions on this, from Tenma?

ebay.com link: Tenma 21 10115 60W Compact Digital Soldering Station

This is what I use: http://www.jensentools.com/pace-st25-analog-solder-station-with-metal-housing-and-ps-90/p/441-847
I've used cheap soldering/desoldering tools over the years and they all fail somehow. Logic behind this was being sick of buying crap and that you can actually get parts for it when it does break.

How would we know? What do we look for?
Mike

I've been using a x-tronics and been happy with it. I think it was about 80 bucks. That tenma looks like a good deal though.

I have one of those, I use it primarily for coils where I'm really not that concerned with having a temperature controlled iron.

I would use it for doing header pins in a pinch, but become familiar with it first, as you will have no idea what your tip temperature is with this iron.

I started doing board repairs with 2 WES51 stations, with 2 different sized tips. It worked, but my bench was crowded. The time invited to shut an iron down, wait for it to cool, and change the tips was significant. So I used 2. And tips lasted about a month. Not that they were all that expensive. It worked.

With JBC, I have 2 tips that primarily do what I need. I can change them as I use them. No need to wait, one slides out and the other slides in. They heat up by the time I need to touch the board. I have other specialty tips for things like drag soldering. The tips last over a year. I cut my soldering footprint in half. The tips are about $50 when ordering them - which is reasonable considering how long they last - but once I identified what tips I use, I started buying from eBay and since they last so long, I can hold out for deals. Haven't paid over $20 a tip since.

Now, I use my soldering iron for about 4 hours a day and can justify the expense to myself. It isn't for everyone, but I really like it!

And, I paid $200 shipped for my JBC on eBay, gently used. Later this year, I intend to buy a new one and relegate the current one to backup.

I still use the WES51s for playfield work.

You have to find what works best for you, the main consideration is not getting the board hot enough to damage the surface pads, and to also not get components hot enough to damage them.

I use 60/40 solder and solder everything at 600 degrees, there is really no one set temperature as soldering techniques and skills are going to vary greatly. Some people prefer to solder at 750 degrees so they can be on the component for the shortest amount of time; best thing to do is grab an old circuit board out of some piece of crap equipment to practice on, an old VCR, computer power supply, etc...

I tend to run hotter but it's a technique thing -- the intent of hotter is to be on the device for a shorter amount of time, thus less heat transfer to whatever is being soldered, but it only works if you ARE on for a shorter amount of time!

Spend the extra money and get a Weller or Hakko (I think Hakko is a little bit better, but either will get the job done). You really do get what you pay for (up to a point) with soldering equipment. The recovery time, which is extremely important, will not be as fast on products like Tenma and Xtronics and the tips are not even in the same league. The quality of the tip is critical since that's where the heat is transferred.

Yeah, if you've got extra money or solder all day long then buy a JBC, Pace or Metcal (I've used them all at work and they're great products). Hakko also has some nice higher end units--I've got an induction system from Hakko which is friggin' amazing. If you're just a hobbyist though you'll never notice the difference or need the extra features that the more expensive brands offer--spend your money on an extra mod, or some led's, instead.

Between mid-range and low-end there's a vast difference in performance, quality and reliability.

Thanks, I couldnt agree with you more on the importance of tips.

I just blew out the low end plug in $20 iron. I might use one for 5-8 times a year.
My issues were a crappy tip.
Im intrigued by temp control, as to whether the casual pin repair would need this.

In that regard, my choices would be the $39 Weller

This Tenma, if it matters:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-19160?scode=GS401&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google&scid=scplp7148222&sc_intid=21-19160&gclid=CNCEpJCGhc8CFUwbgQodiE0CbA

Or the Hakko....I dont need a Bench version as much as a hand held, so whats best there?

No need for temp control unless you're doing board work.

Weller has a good 25 watt iron for playfield work: WP25 Professional (about $40 I think). Hakko also has one that is temperature adjustable (FX-600), but it's not really necessary for playfield work, not sufficiently accurate for board work (IMO) and costs about twice as much as the Weller.

I'm in the UK and do a lot of board work and currently use a Metcal PS-900
heats up in seconds and has smart heat as they call it. No knobs to adjust temperature - automatically adjusts depending on soldering requirements!
Good value, a shade under £200
Bob

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I use one, my upgrade from a rat shack iron. Good for coils, lamps, switches, bridge rectifiers. I wouldn't use it for IC's or any small item board work - unless you have lots of experience. I picked up a used Pace station awhile back off of Craigslist cheap for more intricate things.

LTG : )

Yeah, you can use darn near anything for coil lugs and such (e.g. playfield wiring) with good results. The trick there is to have a larger tip as you need to transfer more heat quickly, and have the room.

For board work -- especially board work on newer boards (e.g. WPC) a fine tip and heat control is important. For *really* fine board work or anything where surface-mount components are involved nothing beats a hot-air station if you'd like to accomplish the job without destroying things (yes, I have one.)

Yes, easily. I use it to do things like replace the tiny little switches on cellphones (which fail all the time, and are a buck or two -- but changing them is very precise work, and without a hot air station you can forget about it.)

Been happy with my Portasol, butane is the way to go! No Wires

Love my weller..

With 35 years of soldering experience on pinballs the first and foremost recommendations I would make are: 1) buy a soldering station where you can control the temperature (can be either digital or analog); and 2) buy a soldering station that has a bunch of interchangeable tips. If you plan on doing any board work I would suggest a soldering iron that is ESD rated. For the record I'm using old Weller EC 1001 ESD, and EC 1002 and Hakko 472B desoldering station.

No matter what iron you buy. Cheap or expensive. Invest in one of these to keep your tips clean. It will extend the life greatly.

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That looks fancy.

I am an amateur at best but I'm on my second iron. I have the Haako FX888D and I really like it. It's simple. Get some good solder, flux and a few tools to help you. Practice on something not important.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1

It may be fine for a few things and for a little while. Pinball work I'd say no. Kind of been browsing the thread and always get a kick out of how thread get turned into showing off the Lamborghini s of irons.

I will assume you are new and inexperienced to soldering.

Just stick to a temperature controlled pencil for board work, if doing a lot of rework (IC socket and header pins) get a desoldering station or gun is a must.

Stick with a Weller,Hakko or other know reputable brand that you know you can get replacement tips or heating element for.

If you just want to solder PF switches, coils, bridges etc. Just get a hakko FX601. Not for any board work. Or even a Weller butane may be good. I have one never really remember to try it.

If your thinking hot air to remove .156 pinball header forget that idea.

Like anything else you usually get what you pay for. Can you buy a Harbor Freight tool and get good results sure sometimes but with soldering spend as much as you can for quality.

Sheez i think a replacement pace 90 desoldering handpiece alone is about 400$.

All I really suggest is look at what your needs are and then go from there.

Oh and here is one of my stations.

I do love the PACE stuff!!

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Ha ha! You found the exact same 3 in 1 Yihua station that I own. Things aren't quite as bad since the last post. I have found a new handle with heating element for $6 that does work in the 853D and some heating elements for $1.55 each that are supposed to work in the iron.

I have used the DC power supply and the hot air gun and those work fine, so far.

I have no idea how long the new 'generic' soldering iron handle will work but spending $6 on a new one is a lot cheaper than buying a new soldering station and I can buy a lot of heating elements for the cost of a new Hakko/Weller station. But my costs are sunk costs and I am going to try to get by with what I've got. You, on the other hand have not spent a dime on the Yihua. You might do better than I have with it but my recommendation is investing in a better soldering station up front.

Also, just for giggles, I will point out that my station only has two red LED panels, not three, and a 907C handle, not a 907A handle. The power switch is on the back, not front. Mine arrived with some screws loose inside the case, not good when dealing with electronics, so I had to take it apart and screw in the loose screws. You might say the whole adventure has been a bit screwy!

I don't care if you think my Hakko is top of the line or not, it's just a known reputable brand and it has been nothing but good to me. Heats up super fast too and keeps to update to date while it does it. (real time temperature) Holds it great too! I've done big EM lugs and whatnot with no lose of temperature either on the display or by performance.

Also:

Anyways, left my cheapy iron/pen at home and needed it for a quick fix at a show this weekend. So I just bought another one at a Wal-Mart nearby! Now I have 2 and two spare tips! The solder is great too, flows great. I'm serious, I even use this solder on board work (with a proper soldering station of course, note I did NOT say this soldering iron! ) and it does really really well and flows great.

Iron is $10 (comes with one tube of solder, same one that is sold separately, great size; also has a stand and an extra tip but I usually don't use the stands, safely setting it down works for me but be careful!) and big tube of solder is $4 every time I go. I love it!

Also the new iron came in handy right when I got home too. Good ol' smell test to see when it's hot. (Also the two prong plug is really nice for when you're working with old service outlets (such a pain with the station at times unfortunately, but then again you're kinda pushing it a little), although I had just decided to plug it in normally since I had such ease of access this time around but like at the show(s) and whatnot it was/would be a small probably-unintended detail with a GREAT benefit, especially in places like those where you would have to crawl under machines with an extension cord to get power with people crowded everywhere)

Pretty nice build quality too actually. My Radio Shack one (which was broken when I got home and I couldn't return it because they were closing up and had sales...) feels 10x more flimsy than this. Normally you'd think Wal-Mart and think shit but this is actually a great hidden gem IMO.

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Keep an eye on Craigslist. I got a bunch of Pace stuff for $330.00, the box is full of new spare tips, parts, solder, etc.

LTG : )

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I've got a weller WD2M station that I've had for about 6-7 years. a bit on the pricey side, but it heats up to 600 degrees in about 3 seconds, the soldering iron has interchangeable tips that you can change on the fly (they have a rubber grip on them, and plug with what looks like phono headphone jack type connectors.

the soldering iron stand holds an additional 3 tips and has a magnetic switch that turns off the iron when it's returned to its resting place. all, in all, its been a great tool. the WD2M base is a brick though. it probably weighs about 6-8 lbs.

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http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Stations-Accessories/Soldering-Stations/WD2-12200

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http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Soldering-Rework/Soldering-Irons-Accessories/Soldering-Irons/T0052919099-12200

Tube of solder? Sound like something radio shack would do.

maybe kraft is the company that now owns radio shack

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It isn't the quality of the iron that makes good connections, it is the hand that holds it. Take the time to learn what setting work best for you. Some techs use a $3 iron from radio shack and make very solid repairs.

Hey man, it's not how it's arranged, it's the solder that counts. I think I actually prefer it as opposed to the classic big roll of solder, especially when leaning into tight spaces in a machine.

I'd buy one if it existed.

Advocating cheap soldering irons for use is like saying it is alright to get an STD.
It may work out and you might have good time initially, but it is not going to be pleasant in the long run.

I bought one of these "pro lines" from Radio Shack at a store closing sale. Worked pretty good for basic stuff...till it broke. Didn't even get to use it much so I wouldn't recommend it.

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