Every job is easy with the proper tools.
I tried all manners of rivet tools and ended up with the harbor freight arbor press modified with rivet press dies.
Think I'm into the set up for about 150.
Yes I only use it once or twice a year but I don't cuss near as much as I used to.
Curious what others will say.

I use the PinTonka classic tool. Works pretty well the few times I’ve needed it.
I think I bought it on eBay a few years back for around $70 w a bunch of rivets included.

http://www.arbortime.mountainminded.net/html/the_better_tonka_rivet_tool_-_.html

I believe they are around $85 now...I always wanted one but then I couldnt get past the idea of paying $75 for a slightly modified C-clamp

A set of rivets, a hammer and a rollover punch is all you need. Something hard and concave on the other side (to rest the rivet head against) is nice to have too...or an anvil.

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Post a help wanted, and find someone local to do it for you (for pizza & beer).

Otherwise, yeah... you'll need to invest some money.

I asked Marco through email if their ez squeeze tool would work with my standard tubular rivets and the answer I got was something in line of "hard to say but probably not" and that's when I bought the rollover punch instead.

I’m using the HF arbor press and its great. But I will say there’s some odd things needing done that this makes more difficult. So I’ll be the one to say that a few times I’ve considered the Tonka one.

I just ordered the newly designed Pintonka rivet press yesterday.
http://www.pintonka.com/

Was on a waitlist for a few months but he's now got more inventory.
Should arrive on Saturday.

I've used the old version before (borrowed from a fellow pinsider) and it is an amazing tool.
Very smooth and easy to use.

Here's what's new about this version:
"Redesigned for 2021 the frame is now hand built from TIG welded steel — not cast metal. With a stiffer, stronger and more accurate frame plus all of the same great features as previous versions this is easily the best Pintonka ever!"

Skip paste the first 2:30 minutes and other stuff in between but in the end gives a good idea of the process and what you need to do.

I bent my clamp from the pintonka set, anyone find a good replacement?

I use to use the modified arbor press, but even with the longest squeezer, it just wasn't quite deep enough to rivet flaps on the end of a ramp without rubbing the side of the ramp. I actually prefer the hammer and rivet punch over the modified arbor press. Since I do hundreds of flaps and switches now, I bought the $500 Hanson bench rivet press. Its the cats meow and saves tons of time.

I wanted to re-rivet the plastic covers on my City Slicker (6803) I believe a few other Bally games have plastics affixed to the plastic flippers as well.

Think the rollover punch and hammer would do the job or will I break the plastic?

I broke some this way, ever since I've used the modified arbor press

My biggest fear! Some of the games I have like GATG and City Slicker I know they will NEVER remake plastics for since the run was so small.

To use the hammer/setting punch method:

1) Get the correct length rivet! You'll be pounding until tomorrow if you picked one that is too long. They come in 1/32" length intervals. Get a variety and pick the right one. Use a caliper to measure the sum of the thicknesses of the items you are riveting. You need enough of the rivet sticking through that you can roll the edges over, but not so much that you run out of the hollow section to work with. This is length "D" on the photo. "D" is .089" on all 1/8" semi tubular rivets.

2) ALWAYS USE A BACKUP WASHER ON PLASTIC!

I cant emphasize points 1 and 2 enough.

6/32" is usually what I use for ramp flaps. Yes, that's 3/16"...but the rivet people go be 32nds.

You need to practice first to get the hang of it. Do not use steel rivets...they take more force. Nickel plated brass are OEM and set easier.. Always use a backup block made of metal against the head of the rivet, and place that on a solid surface. If possible, drill the through hole 1/64 oversize (.140"). This is where the practice comes in...you don't just wail on it. Tap it mildly and see how it looks. Develop a feel for how much force it takes to set the rivet completely. Hit it enough that it doesn't move any more. No more.

Out of a couple hundred ramp flaps and switch brackets, I've cracked exactly 1 ramp...and that was due to me not doing it on a solid surface, and it moved when I hit it.

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$26-$32 of that is the hardened squeezer heads they buy for it. Depends on how many they buy at a time. Then you just have to drill a hole in either end using a lathe.

This topic is becoming more and more riveting.
(Sorry...I had to)

I think it’s a personal decision based on your comfort level.
I’ve hammered rivets/snaps before when I was fixing a boat cover and I was fine with that since it was fabric.
With riveting plastic to metal, I’m personally more comfortable with a PinTonka since I have more slow moving control and can feel when the rivet has set comfortably.

Get the HT-174 tool on Amazon, $25. Then get a ball-peen hammer from Harbor Freight, $3. Then if you want to be really fancy, MAKE a receiver with curved hole with a $2 bolt from Home Depot. This custom receiver preserves the exact look of a factory rivet on a ramp. Notice the pictures below. I offset the hole drilled into the bolt to allow it to be used close to an edge or other narrow space (like a sub-trough, etc). And the results will look like factory installed. The peen hammer is very important to slowly roll-over the edges. While it may look complicated, it is not. Even my first rivet looked perfect!
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making the BOLT receiver is actually easier than it sounds. You buy a 3/4 or 1-inch bolt, you cut the threads off, you smooth grind the remaining surface flat and the edges rounded, then you use a drill a VERY SHALLOW HOLE in the bolt surface using a bit the size of the head of the Hillman 1/8" tubular NICKEL-PLATED rivet (less than a dime at the hardware store). I can't remember the head size, but that is easy to measure once you have some rivets. If you need more help on making the bolt receiver, just PM me...

I have all of the rivet tools, all of them.

Oddly, I actually use all of them depending on the job.

The tonka tool works ok but doesnt really tighten enough for the money. It bends out and isnt stiff enough.
I end up "finishing up" the rivet to tighten it with the hanson tool in most cases.

There is no "one size fits all" tool. There are just too many variables.

That said, the hanson tool works well in almost all cases, but for big things like ramps, you really need a helper to hold the part while you hammer the rivet on.

I just re-riveted some sling switches to reverse the mounting bracket and 3rd contact leaf.

I used my press to get it assembled but even it wasnt quite tight enough for sling switches but satisfactory.

I ended up hammering them a little tighter with the hanson and a head die in my vice after it was assembled.

So, in the end you might need a couple tools to do a satisfactory job.

Using the hanson tool for something like a funhouse main ramp is quite difficult but can be done with a lot of patience.

The hanson tool is a must have in my book, I use it all the time.

I use a rivet hand squeezer which works but I have nothing to compare it to. If you do, what are your thoughts?

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/handrivetsqueezer.php

This is what i use, and it works like a champ. It's expensive, but no problems at all; and don't have to worry about breaking a plastic. But it does not fit all situations, and just wont fit some tight places. Hanson tool for everything else.