high tapped right?

I get the games working properly. Level front and back, bumpers need to pop and flippers need power. Worst playfield issue is inserts being low so fix them and shine that playfield.

That’s all you need.

Every wedgehead has its own best pitch setting, there is no one "correct" setting. Some tables are better when they play faster, and some are better when they play a little slower. As already noted, it's important that the game be in good mechanical condition and playable (decent flippers, no sunken inserts, etc), but pitch is important, too.

I use two-inch levelers in the front with thin jam nuts below the leg, and three-inch levelers in the back with standard thickness nuts positioned below the leg. I run the front levelers in as far in as possible, adjust for left-to-right level as needed, and then lock the leveler position with the jam nuts. I run the back levelers out a bit more than half way, level the game left-to-right, and then lock the leveler position with the standard nuts. Note that the back locking nuts are important as they help to support the weight of the cabinet and head. If you don't lock these nuts up against the underside of the leg, they don't provide any support, and that tends to put extra stress on the threaded holes going through the back legs.

After setting up a trial pitch, I play a few games. If the machine seems slow I'll raise the back levelers more. If the ball is dropping too fast to the bottom, I'll lower them. It isn't really that difficult to get a feel for the best pitch of any wedgehead, just experiment until it seems right.

- TimMe

Supposedly, the starting point is to level the bottom edge of the cabinet.

Really depends on the game. In general I find playfields with open middles do better with more speed, while games with a lot of shots/posts/etc. front and center do better a little floaty, allowing more side to side action. But there are always exceptions.

I used to high tap but later realized this shouldn’t be done if the location (home) has proper voltage and the assemblies are properly rebuilt.

That's what the manufacturers recommended.

All good advice; only exception would be bringing EMs to shows... I always high tap them, and they still don't quite have the snap they do at home on normal tap.

I have acquired a Variac, and have used it at shows. Works great.

And also a great implement in general. I use it on almost every machine as I'm going through them..
Some of the flooring in the game room seems to be a little lower at the walls. Not much, but maybe
enough, and since I have both, I put 2" levelers in the front, and 3" in the back and once the machine
is in it's home position, I level accordingly..
The 2" levelers came with 3/8" nuts, and since some of the rear leg levelers are adjusted quite high, I
place those nuts on the rear levelers underneath the legs to prevent any possible weak thread slippage..

I remember one York show several years ago . I brought an "Old Chicago" to sell for a friend. It was an unusually warm and humid weekend. When the air conditioning came on in the hall, the AC coming to the games must have been maybe 105V or so. The flippers on the game could barely send the ball halfway up the playfield!
Needless to say, the game didn't sell. Once it was back at my friend's house, it played fine.

Gottlieb games state in the manual that the pitch should be 3.5 degrees. So there is a specified pitch setting. Obviously the owner of the game can do what he wants. I set my games at 4% and find that to be fun and challenging.